Jump to content

joeworf

Members
  • Posts

    29
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

joeworf's Achievements

  • Collaborator

Recent Badges

10

Reputation

  1. ::sigh::: A local constable determined that after two years of ownership that I should be cited for not having a front license plate (parked in front of my house). I'm sure this topic has been covered before, but what license plate frames can be affixed to the TC without screwing up the look? There are no pre-drilled holes in the bumper and I'd probably prefer factory but close counts if another brand is an option. If anyone local to the Metro DC / Northern VA area has one to sell that would be great, otherwise any suggestions are welcomed. Thanks. JOE
  2. Might as well add mine, too... 208167 1991 Exotic Red Black V6
  3. Well, good to see another entry into the fold. Can't really help you with your problem but thought I'd give ya a "welcome". I have a '91 red TC (I've had it about a month shy of two years) and I live in the Alexandria area. Maybe we'll pass on the road some day. So far I' haven't encountered another TC on the road in these parts. :-) JOE
  4. Not to threadjack this, but since we;re on the topic... Hemi, my '91 has had its radiator and thermostat replaced yet I still don't trust it. In hotter weather it is somewhat slow to warm up and as long as it is at highway speeds the coolant gauge stays under the 1/4 mark. Sitting in traffic it creeps up to about halfway and wavers a bit. If I resume highway travel the gauge drops back to the 1/4 area again.So far it hasn't gone too much past half way, but I'm not accustomed to all this up and down gauge play in a car unless something is amiss. I do hear the fan kick in and shut down periodiaclly at long idles. Any suggestions as to what is wrong or should I just "get used to it, it's normal" as someone here in the forum said when I broached the subject a while back. P.S. In the winter it tends to stay in the lower registers even when idling.
  5. Can't give you more than a general reply based on your statement. In my case I had a mechanic trace through the electrical wiring in the trunk area and he found two culprits. The first was water leaking in the area of the fuel filler door (separated seal inside the fuel filler door... just put some red epoxy on it to seal it) and was pooling and shorting some wires. The main problem was wires chafing near the trunk hinge. I believe the third "chrome nerd" brake light is independent of the others as it was not working when I bought the car but the main brake lights were. Go figure? Anyway, after the main lights went south and I tried replacing the fuses to no avail, so I had a pro check it out. Be prepared for a diagnostic fee of at least one hour if you can't nail it down yourself. Maybe others can chime in with more specifics. Good luck
  6. Ahhhh.... I've seen that style tonneau cover before (I have a '94 Merc Capri and have been drooling over that for years). The first childhood recollection I had of that type of tonneau was on the old "Mannix" TV series whrere Joe Mannix had a customized "Mannix Roadster" (Olds Tornado convertible). Here's a video below:
  7. IIRC this was an April Fool's Day joke, n'est-ce pas? :confused:
  8. Well, the last mechanic who tried to fix it noted that one motor mount was a bit loose but not broken and didn't appear to be the source of the clunk. The task was made more difficult by the fact that he couldn't get it to replicate the sound. The previous mechanic had the benefit of hearing and feeling the clunk but failed to successfully diagnose it (hence the second opinion). Naw, I'm good with my Cargo Caravan except that I hardly use it except for the occasional hauling of stuff for friends or my own infrequent usage. It sits a lot and as I think someone here said, unused cars sort of "melt" and things go wrong, much akin to entropy. Like I said, I have an old college girl friend who has an agri-business and goes to market frequently and has an older van that is on its last legs. Of course I know that the MINUTE I get rid of it some major project will pop up and I'll regret the decision to divest myself of it. C'est la vie. :-)
  9. Okay, so maybe it's not THAT bad that I'd go that route!! :-) Actually, I'm giving the Caravan (cargo) to a friend that needs it for her business and I'm passing along the Capri to a buddy who wants to tinker with it and give it to his son. The Scamp will likely be sold since it has several mods but is seldom driven. Not quite ready for the minivan club yet.
  10. Yeah, it was granted a stay of excecution (for now). It's not that I don't appreciate the TC, but combined with a host of other problem "children", it gets old having to be under constant seige with an unending plague of issues. To date I've got: A Mercury Capri with a chronic ECM issue that mimics a blown head gasket. An Isuzu VehiCROSS with bad CV boots and in need of new front brakes and a shortage of replacement parts. A Crossfire with a bad alarm module. The TC with unresolved (and yet to resurface) front end clunking. A Caravan with a waning alternator. A Plymouth Scamp with a balky stickshift. A Suzuki Swift with a chronic TCM problem. And I've still got a "modersickle" and a Rampage to contend with. May have to pare the herd. Insurance and annual registration fees are no fun either
  11. I was in the process of writing another long-winded recap when I got a phone call from the shop. Problen solved! Finally! Seems that the wiring near the trunk hinge had chafed the wires and there was also the usual problem with the 3rd brake light board having wiring issues. He said the wire to the 3rd light board kept breaking after soldering it so he just soldered it directly and voila!... then all the lights worked. I'm not sure how the the conventional brakes were working before if the circuit was broken by the 3rd brake?? This car confuses the living daylights out of me. And for the record, should it help anyone else, the water leak (which had no impact on the brake lights) was at the fuel filler door. Inside the door the metal had separated and was allowing water to run into the side recess of the trunk. I can hardly wait for the next crisis. Thanks again Digger for pointing me in the right direction! JOE
  12. Thanks Digger! Further conversation with the mechanic yields... he says he replaced the fuse several times and it blew immediately. There is water seepage in the side of the trunk under the panels and carpet. Except for a minor rodent nest in the engine bay no other signs of gnawing by varmints. He's trying to trace the short but to be honest I'm not up for a search and destroy recon of the wiring at $120 plus an hour and with no guarantees of a solution (within reason). I'll talk again with the service writer in the morning, but I may be done with this. I have other vehicles the money could be better spent on and seem to be less chronic with breakdowns and hassles.
  13. Here we go again. After replacing all the bulbs and related fuse and determining that the brake switch is good, I still have no brake lights. The repair shop upon investigating it has found water seeping in near a warning harness in the trunk and possible rodent infestation as well. Before I get any deeper financially with this heap I'm wondering if I should just cut my losses and bail or plunk around $500 into determining the cause? More immediately, should I just let it dry out and see what happens or let them locate the actual cause. I hate this open ended "investiagtive" crap, especially considering the hourly labor rates just to find the cause without actually fixing it. And if it's the wiring harness I'll likely junk it. Life (and car repairs) really shouldn't be this complex. Any similar experiences or suggestions would be most welcome.
  14. Dunno. As I said the 3rd light was out from the "git go" but the primary lights worked fine (until some point after I had work done on the car... who knows, the mechanic may have shorted something). I checked the regular lights and turn signals immediately after a friend who was trailing me home from the shop told me my brake lights were kaput and the flashers/turn signals functioned fine. (don't know factually how long they've been out, so I can't just accuse the repair shop... but they were working in early September for sure). I suspected it might not be the fuse when I noted that the dome lights were on the same circuit and worked fine... didn't try the cruise control since I had never tried it beforehand and woudn't know when and if it blew. I did note that one of the rear lights (passenger) was dimmer than the other side and thought it might be a bad filament in one of the bulbs, but had never heard of one bad filament taking down an entire brake light circuit (WTF ?????) until I read an earlier post here. So kind sir, without benefit of a shop manual, just where is the brake light switch located? (under the brake pedal???... at least that's where it was in my Dodge van). I swear this car is starting to give me a migraine and I've owned some PITA cars before but none that malfunctioned one thing after another in rapid succession. A little breathing room (and a paycheck refresh) would be welcome. Thanks all for the advice.
  15. I know this is going to come across as a wussy question, but I figure it is better to ask first before trashing something unneccessarily. My brake lights are suddenly not working (the 3rd light has been out since i bought it but the mains were fine). I tried the easy way first and replaced the fuse even though the owner's manual is amazingly vague and doesn't stipulate that the WHOLE lower panel has to be removed and neglects to mention the three retaining screws at the base. Anyway, next stop the bulbs themselves, except that the access is through the trunk lid and some carpeting / liner. My question... the retaining tabs that secure the trunklid carpet.... they don't seem to want to snap out nor do they seem to unscrew. And since it is pretty cold in these here parts of late, I fear they may be brittle enough to break if forced. So , do I go all macho and just pry the suckers up or is there some safe secret way to get them off without doing any damage? I just don't want to destroy the plugs if they weren't designed to be popped out. Also, if the bulb replacement fails to solve the problem, any other ideas?? Shorts?? (under hood), Bulb contact corrosion? etc.? Thanks.
×
×
  • Create New...