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Everything posted by Kaber

  1. I'm trying full to Top method. So far I know you have to clamp both ends of the hose from the Rad to the bottle. Kaber
  2. Pretty straightforward, get a Bendix M/C for a 67 w/ drum brakes. Plumb the front cup to the front brakes and the rear to the rear. No need for prop valve since 4 wheel drum. I did it an upgraded to all new lines and hoses at the same time. You brake lamp switch is already on the pedal so you are good to go. Kaber
  3. But this cost me nothing and I didn't have to chase parts. The switch is a 64 Riviera. Kaber
  4. That is correct, and other than the tight working area it was pretty straightforward.
  5. Kaber again, last weekend I replaced the Radiator in my Son's 63. I wanted to switch to a closed system so I hit the local salvage yard. After much looking I found a suitable bottle, in a Japanese SUV of some sort. Mounted it up and plumbed it. Still kinda working out the bugs but I think it will work ok! Kaber out!
  6. Thanks Rivman! Was going to edit text and pics but got thrown off! Sorry guys, This might work better!
  7. Hey guys! This weekend I finally bypassed our problematic hydraulic brake light switch. I have had to replace our hydraulic switch 3 times, the last one with a lo pressure one. Still about every 6 months the brake pedal requires much effort to get the lamps to come on. I replaced the sockets and grounded them separately, still no bueno! So I ordered a switch for a 64 Riviera from Rock Auto. I looked at the pedal assy and designed in CAD a bracket to mount the switch to the existing brake pedal mounting structure. Pretty simple bracket, one 90 degree bend in a piece of approx .080" thick sheet metal and (2) 1/4-20 PEM nuts. The hard part was drilling the holes for the bracket to mount, the vintage steel is tough!!! I used a pneumatic 90 degree drill and about 3 different sized bits to make the 3/8" holes (I wanted some adjustment in the mounting screws. I attached it with (2) 1/4-20 button head cap screws & lock washers. The switch then mounted in the folded part and is retained with the 2 nuts that were supplied with the switch. It is directly in line with the lever arm of the brake pedal. I then cut off my factory terminal in the engine compartment and ran 2 wires thru a grommet in the fire wall (same 90 degree drill for that hole). I crimped on 2 blade connectors to the wires in the interior and plugged in the switch. I strain relieved them in an adel clamp attached to one of the mounting bolts. It seems to function as expected and I think my son will finally have reliable brake lamps! Part 2 I finally was able to use the extra console piece I bought from Ed. I had a hole machined in to accept the tach in the suggested location. Sadly when test fitting the tach, I dropped it and had to send it out for repairs to Bob's Speedometer service. I mounted it in the tach and exchanged the top plate of the console. It looks like it grew there! Everything is wired up and working as expected! Thought you guys might be interested , especially in the brake lamp switch! Thanks, Kaber
  8. Thank you for all the replies! I , like most here, went with the recore (Using the more efficient core). Total was $375 and I knew it would fit! Again thank you for all the replies! This is a great Resource to the Riviera community!! Kaber
  9. Hey Guys, Its Kaber, I've been away from The Riv world for a while. My son was studying in England and I had my own cars to mess with. My computer at work lost the ability to get on this sight for some reason as well?!? I fear my Son's 63 401 Riv may need a replacement radiator. His is green and seepy and it kinda overheated last year. So what have you guys found for replacements? I'm gonna replace the trans cooler lines at the same time with some from Inline Tube. Any help would be great. I was thinking OPGI or a recore. I haven't had much luck with recore's in the past. Thanks! Kaber
  10. My Kid's 63 has the gray satin inserts and the Cat head center caps, I wanted to paint the wheels black originally but have grown to appreciate the gray! My Son loves the Wildcat centercaps! You can't go wrong with the road wheels no matter what color they are on these cars!
  11. I bought a full front end kit, for my sons 63, from PST for under $500. No box/center link but everything else, including inner tie rod ends. Its been in service 3 years now with no complaints. It wasn't listed in their paper catalog, only on line.
  12. I have two old cars myself. My son owns the Riviera. In the summer, I park my daily driver on Friday night and drive my old cars all weekend every weekend, weather permitting. They get wet, but I do try to limit their ex poser to the elements. I used to drive them much less than 1000 miles a year each. Now I find my self driving each of them well over 3000 miles each summer. It beats the hell out of watching them sit in the garage! As for the Riv, my son is a busy guy, going to college and working internships in the summer. He doesn't get a chance to drive the Riv as often as he would like. I feel sorry for it sometimes......
  13. UPDATE: Picked up a T-3 from a local friend yesterday. He pulled it out of a car he was parting out. I haven't put it in yet. Sometimes I forget I have friends who aren't on the internet. Thanks for all the help and advice! Tim
  14. Thanks to all who replied. Correct I need the ribbed Triangle. I think I found 2 locally from a friend. I will probably pick them up tonight. I know they are not the best lighting, but I think they just look cool. I drive my Chevelle alot , just not alot at night! Thanks again! Tim
  15. Hey guys, Driving home for a cruise in Friday night one of my Beloved original lo-beam T-3 bulbs finally gave up on my 1970 Chevelle (4 headlamp system). I would like to replace just that bulb with a working one as the repro replacements sets are quite pricey. I can't believe the the current bulb only lasted 46 years!!!! If anyone has some spares, and they are willing to part with one, please let me know! Any help would be great! Thanks, Tim
  16. UPDATE: I went to PEP Boys and bought the metal Ford style tail lamp sockets. The included a spade connector built in for a ground wire. I replaced both my sockets with the Metal ones and added the ground wire to both sides. The bulb was stuck in Driver side original socket, The passenger side original socket as VERY loose. After doing this both tail lamps work and both brake lamps work! The Ford style socket is a robust design and I was pleased with the quality. I still think it takes too much brake pedal pressure to activate the stop lamps! Cars has to be running (Not just ignition on, running) I assume for the added vacuum boost. Then you have to be 1/2 way thru the brake pedal travel before the lamps illuminate, I have moved my pressure switch to the brake tee (dual master cylinder), and changed it to a lower pressure version. In the spring I will try a more contemporary switch on the pedal like a 64 up car. I'll just have to fabricate a bracket to hold the switch at the brake pedal and run the wires inside from the existing switch. I can always go back to the current set up if something doesn't work out. At least for the time being my son now has stop lamps! T
  17. Thank you that is all good information but our car does NOT have a tilt wheel. I will consult my shop manual to locate switch, if it is not in the steering column. Tim
  18. I would like to clean the turn signal switch. Do you have to remove the steering wheel in order to do this? I do have tail lamps, no stop on the pass side. I still think the brake lamps require too much brake force to illuminate, I even went with the lower PSI switch. My son wants to drive it one more time be fore going back to school this weekend so hopefully I can get it working for one more ride and then I'll have all winter to mess with it. My plan is to : 1. Clean the turn signal switch (any more advice here would be great) 2. Replace and ground the Tail lamp sockets, either by adding the ground wire or checking the metal ones. 3. Move brake switch to the pedal. 4. I would also like to get the turn signals to cancel. (wood wheel, no pin. What does the pin look like/measure) Thanks Tim
  19. Thanks guys, Our car does NOT have tilt. Could the turn signal switch still be an issue? I haven't worked on it yet. It really acts like a socket issue, the pass side socket will barely hold the bulb. I like the additional ground Idea for the socket. The brake lights never worked without the car running. The Hyd. switch has been troublesome from the start. You have to really be into the brakes to get any light at all. I still thing a pedal mounted switch is the way to go. But now I am wondering about the turn signal switch?!?! Also is there a source for the "Bent" wood wheel TS cancel pins? I have no cancelling and there is nothing in the hole. Are there dimensions available, I could probably make one or several if i had the dimensions. While i am working on this i may as well fix a few other things as well. Thanks! T
  20. Hey guys, We converted my Sons 63 to a dual master cylinder shortly after we got it so I really don't have a history with how the original system performed. However, since, we seem to have a recurring issue with brake lamps. It seems you have to apply the brakes quite firmly in order to illuminate the brake lamps. The system uses a hydraulic switch to activate the lamps. I plumbed it into the brake lines at one of the tee's that was left open when we split the brake line for the dual system, before that the switch resided in the old single master cylinder. Originally I used the factory switch and had this problem (intermittent brake lamps) so I changed to a low pressure switch from Summit and it seemed to correct it for a while but it all seems to be back to the intermittent brake lamp activation that we have been having from the start. To make matters worse the tail lamp sockets seem to be wonkey. When the brake lamps do light the Driver side comes on while the passengers side does not, On the passenger side the metal retainer for the bulb wants to come out of the socket, breaking contact with spring tabs that supply the power to the bulb. The little sawtooth retainers in the socket don't grab the plastic housing anymore causing the bulb to push everything up and not have enough tension to keep contact. Here is where i need help! I would like to replace my tail lamp sockets and replace the Hydraulic brake lamp switch with a more contemporary brake lamp switch on the brake pedal itself. I know the 64 up Rivs used a more contemporary switch like that. Does anyone make a replacement brake lamp socket (it seems quite basic)? Is there a recommended brake light switch for converting to an interior electric brake lamp activation system? I am assuming I use the same wires I have now and just extend them to the interior to feed power to the new switch? Has anyone experienced this issue? I seem to recall an article in the ROA that may have detailed this conversion to some extent, I need to get the current password from my son so I can log on and check it out. Anyone parting out a 64/65 that would want to sell the Brake lamp switch assy and tail lamp sockets? Thanks and any help would be appreciated! Tim UPDATE: found the tail/brake lamp sockets on Rock auto and I also added a 64 Brake lamp switch to the order. It's 2 wire and mounts on a threaded plastic shaft. Still need to know what the bracket looks like!
  21. I usually paint the parts that are off and i have easy access to. After a couple of years back on the car, if you drive it, you won't be able to tell you painted anything! But, it will still be clean(er) and not rusty. T
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