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About Kaber

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  • Birthday 09/04/1965

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  1. Pretty straightforward, get a Bendix M/C for a 67 w/ drum brakes. Plumb the front cup to the front brakes and the rear to the rear. No need for prop valve since 4 wheel drum. I did it an upgraded to all new lines and hoses at the same time. You brake lamp switch is already on the pedal so you are good to go. Kaber
  2. I bought a full front end kit, for my sons 63, from PST for under $500. No box/center link but everything else, including inner tie rod ends. Its been in service 3 years now with no complaints. It wasn't listed in their paper catalog, only on line.
  3. UPDATE: I went to PEP Boys and bought the metal Ford style tail lamp sockets. The included a spade connector built in for a ground wire. I replaced both my sockets with the Metal ones and added the ground wire to both sides. The bulb was stuck in Driver side original socket, The passenger side original socket as VERY loose. After doing this both tail lamps work and both brake lamps work! The Ford style socket is a robust design and I was pleased with the quality. I still think it takes too much brake pedal pressure to activate the stop lamps! Cars has to be running (Not
  4. Thank you that is all good information but our car does NOT have a tilt wheel. I will consult my shop manual to locate switch, if it is not in the steering column. Tim
  5. I would like to clean the turn signal switch. Do you have to remove the steering wheel in order to do this? I do have tail lamps, no stop on the pass side. I still think the brake lamps require too much brake force to illuminate, I even went with the lower PSI switch. My son wants to drive it one more time be fore going back to school this weekend so hopefully I can get it working for one more ride and then I'll have all winter to mess with it. My plan is to : 1. Clean the turn signal switch (any more advice here would be great) 2. Replace and ground the Tail lamp sockets
  6. Thanks guys, Our car does NOT have tilt. Could the turn signal switch still be an issue? I haven't worked on it yet. It really acts like a socket issue, the pass side socket will barely hold the bulb. I like the additional ground Idea for the socket. The brake lights never worked without the car running. The Hyd. switch has been troublesome from the start. You have to really be into the brakes to get any light at all. I still thing a pedal mounted switch is the way to go. But now I am wondering about the turn signal switch?!?! Also is there a source for the "Bent" wood
  7. Hey guys, We converted my Sons 63 to a dual master cylinder shortly after we got it so I really don't have a history with how the original system performed. However, since, we seem to have a recurring issue with brake lamps. It seems you have to apply the brakes quite firmly in order to illuminate the brake lamps. The system uses a hydraulic switch to activate the lamps. I plumbed it into the brake lines at one of the tee's that was left open when we split the brake line for the dual system, before that the switch resided in the old single master cylinder. Originally I used the fac
  8. I don't agree with the Dog's opinion at the end of the "drive by" video, LOL! Nice work, good to see it rolling under its own power! Tim
  9. I did the Dual master on my son's 63. Dewey supplied me with a new one. T
  10. These are all great songs but the one that gets me in trouble is Turbo Lover by Judas Priest! And I have to say I'm really diggin the Junior Brown! T
  11. I have an alternative idea to fix this but need a drawing or pictures of what the horn bar and contacts look like. Anybody? Thanks, Tim
  12. That looks great! I agree the silver does look better with your interior. I can't wait to get the Riv out this spring and add Adam's plate to it. Thanks for the pics Seafoam!!! Tim
  13. Ed, there are guys around here that slice and dice old plates and weld up whatever combo they want. The grind them down and refinish them and then get them registered to their cars, as long as the number isn't taken. Might be something to try?! In Ohio there is no yearly registration fee for Vintage cars registered as historical. It is $35 to sign up and get your tags and they are good for 88 years ?!?!? You then can register the model year tags to your vehicle and run them on the car while keeping your actual Historical tags in the trunk. As you can imagine it causes confusion in the law enfo
  14. Nice display Rob! I really like the variety. The 71-72's are really cool! Kaber
  15. LOL!!!!! Wife's sewing kit! Good one Ed! I have used finish nails for tire valve stems before! Kaber
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