leomara

Hey Joe, just taught me something I suspected existed but did not know the name. Non the less I'm going to attempt a work-around rather than spend that kind of money on a once in a lifetime usage tool. Thank you.

I need to drill o hole in a rumble lid for the installation of this cam lock. The roundness is 5/8 of an inch however notice the shaft of the lock is flat on opposite sides obviously to prevent it from turning in a round hole. There must be an easy way of doing this. Suggestions please.

Who needs a fuel pump when you have a marvelous Stewart Warner Vacuum Tank? 😁

Hey lozrocks, I may be mistaken but the bracket on the steering column which holds the ignition switch is the same for your 1929 as for my 1928, correct? If so the hole for the ignition switch on mine is 1 inch wide and 1 inch deep. This switch which you used must have required some "work" to make it fit?

Hey edinmass, thank you for your offer. I was able to find someone with a machine. Now I have to get my distributor back, (another long story).

Hey edinmass, yeah, I've got one of those in my garage.....and if it's broke I know another 10 people who own one......😁 Only kidding, please do not take offense.

Hey Peter R, what about this Delco Remy synchronizing tool for 6 cylinder cars #820751 (photo above). I can't even find reference to it on the internet much less one for sale. Leo

With thousands if not more of these Delco Remy 6 cylinder distributors having been made you would think that a few of these tools must be around. Not so. I can't even find mention of one on the internet. Please, someone surprise me.

This piece looks something like an emergency brake cross shaft which mounts on the frame rails of a Model A Ford. The arm on the shaft has 4 letters and a number on the casting which are: H F C O 4

Quite an impressive collection! Do you have any idea why Chrysler used a Shaler ignition switch when the distributor was Delco Remy? I bit bizarre no?

Hi Peter R. thank you so much for all this valuable information. I've sent you 2 photos of my sorry switch with the cutoff cable. There are also 3 photos of another switch I was able to obtain. It was advertised as going to a 1936 Plymouth, however the switch is exactly the same as mine, the cable is in tact but it appears to be the type that goes to the coil, definitely not the distributor. I don't know at this point what I intend to do. I'm just interested in functionality, I don't have a complete cable with the correct receptacle at the distributor end. I may just opt to replace the switch with generic universal type and just run a wire to the distributor disguised in some type of phony armored cable. All the Model 72 car engines I've seen pictured on the internet have varying types of cables being used, none appear to be original probably because it is a hard original item to find and service. That synchronizing tool 820751 is another impossibility of finding.

Peter R, thank you but I don't want to publish that, starts with J2-----. Page 13 Sec. AA would be beneficial too.

Thank you.

Thank you Peter R. Your wiring chart and all the others I've seen do not match my ignition switch but it is the closest. My switch and I believe it to be original has 2 threaded terminals and one armored cable which I've been told went to the distributor as is shown on your chart. The line to the ammeter and gasoline gauges could have been shared on one terminal and of course the other would go to the coil. Some other charts I've seen sent the armored cable to the distributor. It's all quite confusing. What does P 18, Sec AA say about the ignition switch?

Hi, was not able to obtain a NOS set of Delco Remy points, however I did get a NOS set of the Standard Blue Streak #DR-1821 & DR-1823 and I'm hoping they will do. Regarding the Delco Remy synchronizing tool #820751, tough item to find, have not seen one yet...

Hi dodge28, thank you for your post. However, not being well versed in electrical terminology how does this translate to my need of an ignition switch for my 1928 Chrysler with a stock wiring setup? None of the old stock switches on ebay have voltage or amperage ratings but anything prior to the 1950's was probably made for a 6 volt system. The new switches posting an amperage rating for a 12 volt system are usually 10 - 12 amps. According to PFitz I should be good with any of them.

Wow! Gary, I have a 1928 Chrysler with a dual point Delco Remy distributor and would I love to see something like this about that.

Thank you Narve N. I'm a little intimidated by the dual point point distributor having no prior experience with them.

I've looked on this site for servicing the dual point distributor and how to set it up in my car with no results. Perhaps I'm not asking for the right thing. Sources?

Hey Joe, a starter switch for a 1928 Chrysler, keyed and besides the voltage/amperage issue I want it to fit in the same place the old one did trying not to be obtrusive. The switch you pointed me to has 5 terminals, I only need off/on function with 3 contacts, input, output (ammeter and distributor).

Wow! Another dilemma. Finding a 2 position, 3 pole starter switch for 6 volts. Sources???

I'm looking to replace a switch on a pre-war 6 volt car and I see switches labeled as 12 volt, does it really matter?

The people at the AACA Museum. I went there to do research on the exhaust system for a 1928 Chrysler Model 72. They were so helpful. The car was in a storage building behind the museum. It was dark and I could not see anything. They assisted me by finding an extension cord and light. They did this with an attitude of helpfulness not seen very much in today's society. A big bravo to them for their help.

The ignition switch I displayed in the first post on this topic is a Shaler Co. ignition lock. Does anyone have any information about this ignition switch?

Hi, Viv W, unfortunately looking at the photo above nothing is stamped or printed on my switch, there is no bakelite, just a fiber cap on the rear where the wires connect. I will clean it well and see if anything turns up I may have missed. The armored cable has been cut. The coil while I believe is original has no type of receptacle for the armored cable, just the normal two threaded lugs for wiring. This is the coil. The distributor is not in my possession now, it is at the engine rebuilders. The distributor that came with the engine was a one set of points type which I know was not correct so I obtained another distributor which is correct with two sets of points.