wayne sheldon

Criminy! Many cars from the late 1920s into the 1970s used similar twist on caps, both on radiators and gasoline tanks. They came in several common sizes. There may be a common size that although looking ugly should work okay. Whether any are still available from local auto supply stores or not I do not know. But it may be worth checking into. If you find a proper cap for your car? You may want to consider one of those generic caps to leave on the car when it is parked somewhere. A lot of us have cheap caps to use for local driving, and the nice one (or two) for shows, tours and other gettogethers. Some of those generic caps may need some trimming around the outer edges to fit your unusual cap's design.

About forty years ago, I had to have some glass work done. At the time, I was looking at a project that if I got it would need some special curved glass. I talked to a couple local shops that told me they did that all the time, how easy it was (yeah, IF you have the setup for doing it!), and how cheap it was. They also said I could get either ,aminated or tempered, as long as tempered wasn't used in the windshield (tempered might not shatter and can crush a skull or break one's neck!). Apparently a few shops doing that work kept them competitive (who would have ever guessed?)! But those people eventually retired, and their shops closed down. Two different local shops told me they were set up to do it, and if I got the project (I didn't), they could have the glass ready to pick up in a week. Just another thing our no-can-do anymore world has lost. The point being, that when these IH Travel-alls were in daily use, replacing the windows was not a problem.

My "mini-barn" (a Tuff Shed) was built pretty tight, and remained rodent free for many years. I also kept Irish Spring, mothballs, and trays of antifreeze inside. I also have a storage shed that is not tight at all, things of lesser value are kept in there. I used a roller-bucket and antifreeze trap in there with some success. We also had a barn cat, that I know kept the rodent population down. But, she became too old, and none of the other neighborhood cats wanted to take over the job. So, eventually, and believe it or not? The rats decided to invade my mini barn, and chewed through an aluminum vent cover! Once inside, they began doing significant damage to a lot of things. Not only did the moth balls and Irish Spring not keep them out, they ATE the Irish Spring! I had to take almost everything out of the mini barn. Clean things, throw out a few things, repair some damage. I sealed it up extra tight. Two years now, and no new signs of activity inside the mini barn. The barn cat eventually left us (after fifteen years!), and none of the other feral or neighborhood cats seem to want to take over the job.

Which one is the new one? And which one is the old one? I am certainly no expert on carburetors of that era! However, it appears to me that one of them has a manual choke on it, while the other may have had an automatic choke? It is usually easy enough to put a manual choke onto a carburetor set up for an automatic choke. I have done that a couple times on 1950s/'60s cars or trucks when the automatic chokes became too unreliable or I changed a carburetor with an automatic choke onto a vehicle that was set up with a manual choke. It often is NOT easy to make an automatic choke work on a vehicle not set up for one. Sometimes there is some link missing that is not easily adapted around.

Hey there Kevin! I believe the Chalmers Detroit is in the last photo of the 1911 Cole toy tonneau. The Sears is next to the 1911 Cole in the first photo of it! (Not counting the advertisement or engine photo)

Wonderful additions to the Cole collection! I also love the Sears parked next to the 1911 toy tonneau. Is it yours also?

Some years back, I heard of a Paige truck still surviving, but never got to confirm it or see photos of it. I have a 1927 Paige 6-45 automobile, so have been interested in the marque for many years. Quite a few Paige automobiles still exist, although few are driven regularly. I don't think many of the trucks survive.

This is one of the things I love about this website! Even some old idiot like me that has been around and seen so very much over the years can still find things to learn about! Thank you DD!

Just a minor criticism, a matter of semantics. You should not use the phrase "no rust", as a significant portion of the vehicle is covered with rust. A qualifier, such as no "major" rust, or no rust "through", even no "significant" rust. You are correct that compared to how rust can be, it is in very good condition with solid metal. This trucks condition should in no way be played down. It should be described accurately, as for the most part you have already done. It is nice enough that if someone can find the appropriate headlamp and fenders? It could be freshened up a bit, and mechanically sorted out and then preserved as a true survivor! I am past the point of getting any additional projects (I already have four I need to finish!). But this is something that a few years ago, I could have easily fallen in love with! I don't wish to criticize. However, we see a lot of real rust-buckets claimed as having "no rust", when clearly that is not the case. It sometimes gets so bad that I have seen cars so badly rusted that one could punch a hole in the body side with a bare fist that were claimed to "have no rust". When the actual condition is pointed out, sellers try to claim that "rust" only means "rusted clear through". And even at that, in their photos areas can be seen that ARE rusted clear through. This truck is too nice to get lumped in with those real rust-buckets.

A lot of jack-stands have a triangular shaped base. A friend was helping place jack-stands under a car, I mentioned to place the triangle so that the flat side of the triangle was facing toward the door. He asked why. The car was at that point sitting on two stands, wheels and tires all in place as they would mostly be while being stored, and I knew the transmission was still in neutral. I was at the back of the car next to the spare tire. I grabbed the spare tire, and gave it a yank! The stands tipped back across the flat side of the triangle, and I pulled it another couple feet. My comment, "In case of fire." If you are concerned about a car getting knocked off such stands and rolling away, or landing on you while you are working under it? Alternate the directions of the stands (with triangle placed legs!). If you are just storing the car, and concerned about fire? Face all stands "flat toward the door". Since I grew up in "Earthquake country"? I do add that consideration. While we are on the subject. I often stack blocks of wood to support cars when I am working on them. Same rules of physics and geometry apply. There is a human tendency to place all stacked blocks perpendicular to the axles or frame rail they are placed under. THAT however is not the best way to place them! It is much more stable if the blocks are placed at 45 degree angles to the axles or frame rails, and alternated. One stack angled to the right, the other angled to the left. With the blocks all pointed the same direction, the car being bumped or pulled from the side of the blocks can tip off easily! Alternating the direction of the blocks puts the stability from one direction on one set of blocks, while the stability from another direction is handled by the other set of blocks. Again, if for long term storage (not crawling under!), and concerned about fire? Place all stacks the same direction, so the best tipping would be toward the door. Always. All surrounding circumstances, space, clutter, work planned? All need to be taken into consideration. Sometimes one way is best. Sometimes the other way is.

Nice fabrication work! I guess you can get bulbs for those?

"Rims" were steel, almost always! "Wheels" had been wooden spokes from very early onward. Wooden spoke wheels were on their way out about 1930, however, continued to be an option on many cars and some small trucks into the mid 1930s. Wooden spoke wheels are not a bad thing! They were NEVER because the people or engineers did not know better. And the technology for both steel wire and steel disc wheels also goes back to the beginning of the automobile! In the United States, the choice for wooden spoke wheels was a practical one. While much of the British Empire and Europe were using costly steel wire and steel disc wheels before 1910, the United States chose wooden spokes. This was largely due to Europe not having good supplies of appropriate wood for wheel spokes. Whereas the United States had millions of acres of old growth hickory forests! Hickory is one of the best woods in the world for wheel spokes! Oak is very hard, in fact so much so that it becomes brittle under the kind of stress an automobile puts on its wheels! Most other woods are too soft, or too weak. A few other hardwoods also have various issues that make them a poor choice for automobile wheels. Hickory has the right balance of resiliency, and strength, couple with the fact that it is good to work with. Wooden spoke wheels continued to be used in this country because they were good, and relatively cost effective. Eventually, manufacturing capabilities did make all steel wheels more economical, and the wooden spoke wheels began dropping to the wayside. Even when steel wire and stamped steel disc wheels became cheaper, many people preferred wooden spoke wheels, hence they continued to be offered as an option for those that wanted them. Wooden spoke wheels were also used on racing cars! Under the grueling abusive conditions of dirt tracks and high speeds, wooden spoke wheels rarely broke! Neat truck! But I cannot help with what it is worth.

I haven't seen any recent posts from Ed M?

Looks like common electronic schematics to me! I have read hundreds of them, and repaired thousands of pieces of equipment. I hated being stuck in the shop doing the work bench repairs. Most of my work was out in the field. Farmers weren't the only ones that could be out standing in their field!

With only three or four strands unbroken? That alone could be making the lamp dim. Replacing the switch might not help at all if the real problem is the wire!

I don't know about 1915 and later, but Metz in 1914 and earlier had the "fan" cast into the flywheel. The earlier cars did not have a fan at the front of the engine behind the radiator.

The sound of crickets! It appears to me, that the remaining old wire goes to the bulb filament, though a tenuous set of connections prone to corrosion problems? From the photo, I can't tell where the "bridge" may be? The solenoid when on, and presumably holding the bulbs in "dipped" position, would pull a bit of amperage. So it may make sense that the fuse would protect the bulb's power if the draw became to much for the circuit to handle? This is all speculation! Maybe lights on powered to between the wire to the bulb and the fuse? And to "dip" the lights the second wire from below the solenoid went to the dipper switch then to ground? In that way, if the fuse blew because the solenoid became hot, the headlamp would move up (undipped?) but still stay lit (hopefully?)? I may not have any good answers? But you have me wondering?

Those prices are just insane! And I know better (I think?). A longtime good friend and his family have a fabulous collection of cars! High end Classics and horseless carriages mostly. About twenty years ago, one of the several sons involved, bought a 1933 Ford three window coupe. Unlike almost everything else in the collection, it and one other 1950s era real hot rod, was mildly rodded way back when. I don't know the details (I never really cared about hot rods). The 1933 coupe had a later flathead engine, and a fancy interior, but otherwise looked nearly stock. I was shocked at how much they paid for that car! The sons were very proud of it, apparently, it had some history. From the prices shown above? Those sons could probably sell their coupe for three of four times what they paid for it twenty years ago! And I thought it was crazy then! But, that is okay. They are a good family, and good people.

I had to google it. As I expected from reading your question, you are asking about powering a Lincoln arc welder for use in a location without utility electricity. Frankly, although I worked many years in related equipment and powering fields, I am not familiar enough with either the particular Lincoln welder (although it appears to be a lower power model?), or the generators currently available, to give advice I would trust. There are however, a couple things of great importance! One, being power requirements. The other being connectivity. What type of plugs are designed in? 110 volt? 220 volt? Two phase? Three phase? Wattage requirements? General rule. Peak Wattage of the generator needs to be at least twice the peak demand for the welder. Part of this is due to Wattage for generators is usually over-rated. The 1800 Watt generator I have had for many years will NOT run my 1000 Watt microwave oven! In spite of the fact that the generator's booklet says it should be able to. I know this because I tried it, ONLY the microwave oven on the generator, during a power outage. To attract a better and more precise answer, you should change the title of your thread to specify a generator and a welder information. Your current title to many will sound like you are electrifying a Lincoln automobile? (An all too common today bad idea that floats around the hobby these days?)

Guten tag Hans, As with almost everything to do with people? There are almost always exceptions. I know several private collections that maintain nearly all their cars to very high level. Several of those collectors usually drive a half dozen or more different cars every year! However, most of those are private collections, and not generally considered to be museums. The 1925 Studebaker coach I had many years ago had been in a museum for many years. The good friend of mine that had bought it from the museum wasn't very happy with it, said it wasn't nearly as good as the curator had claimed it to be. My friend also said it was far and away the best car in the museum! My friend did a lot of work on the car, fixed a lot of things that were wrong with it, got it to run, then found a car he liked better. He made me an offer to sell it to me unfinished, which I took. I then fixed numerous other things that he hadn't gotten to. The work my friend had done was all top notch! (The main reason I bought it was I knew him to do very good restoration work!) I managed to repair the original upholstery enough to look nice and it served very well, had the car professionally painted, rebuilt a bad wheel, the clutch and the transmission (along with the many things my friend had fixed!). It was a fine car that I enjoyed and drove for several years. Many good friends over the years have bought cars from various museums. A few of those cars were very nice and good running cars needing very little before driving and enjoying them. Most other former museum cars I have known, if anything, were worse than my Studebaker was! Would I consider buying another car from a museum? Certainly I would consider it. But whether I would buy it would depend upon the car and its apparent condition! The subject car in this thread? Frankly, I see quite a bit wrong with it. However, the price is not crazy high. I would expect to need to do quite an amount of sorting and correcting the mechanical aspects of the car. Knowing what I know about these particular Lincolns? It wouldn't surprise me if the engine needed to be completely rebuilt! If a person wants a really proper and nice one of these? This car would require a full restoration at very high cost! On the other hand, If someone would love to have such a car to drive and enjoy, while fixing the little stuff a bit at a time? This car doesn't look that bad. The seller says it runs well? Maybe it could be driven and enjoyed for years while fixing it up a little at a time? A car like this? At this price these days? One could do a lot worse! Museum or not!

That front axle is Metz! Somewhere between 1912 and 1918ish.

The fender looks a lot like a Metz fender from the mid 1910s. Not exactly like my 1913/'14, but close. The radiator shell also looks similar to a mid/late 1910s Metz (not at all like my 1913/'14!). The hood is most likely NOT Metz. The fan I have no idea other than somewhere between 1910 and 1925?

I have not confirmed the etymology. However, apparently the term "fish plate" originated (or became known early on?) for the steel plates bolted in to join sections of railroad rails. The story goes that some early versions resembled the shape of a fish. An early mistake in the design of the new model T Ford in 1908, was that Ford ordered about two thousand of the new, longer, model T frames in the same material thickness as the smaller lighter model N/R/S earlier Ford cars. The frames were bought and paid for, then it was quickly found that they weren't strong enough for the new heavier car! So, Ford had fish plates made to fit most of the length of the frame, and had their workers rivet the fish plates into place! Having a model T early enough to have the "fish plate frame" is a badge of honor and something early T owners brag bout! I had to look up "flitch plate". It apparently is generally a steel piece between two wooden boards used to add strength and rigidity. Similar idea? That term is obscure enough that Merriam Webster wants me to be a paying member in order to get that answered.

Both your and the Chevrolet picture posted by Gunsmoke do not have the front part of the top opened correctly. It is what is known as a "two-man" touring car top. They were the most common type of touring car top from slightly before 1910 until about 1914. So-called "one-man" tops began about 1912, and other than a few cheaper cars (like Ford and Chevrolet) were favored by most manufacturers by 1915. The "one-man" and "two-man" refers to the number of people it generally took to put them up or take them down. But don't believe it! Most "two-man" tops can be done by one person that knows how (I have done it many times!). And many "one-man" tops are pretty tough for one person to handle, especially on really large cars! An earlier style top, in several variations, were often referred to as "buggy" or buggy-type tops. They used various types of locking mechanisms or landau bars and were often free standing, not requiring tie-downs to the windshield or front of the chassis. On many (not all) buggy type tops, the front-most bow stays connected to the second bow down near the bottom. That idea had a problem of the driver or front passenger needing to squeeze around the front-most bow! The "two-man" top improved upon that, by having two attachments for the front-most bow. When the top is put down, the front-most bow is moved from its top position to the attachment near the bottom of the second bow, where it can stack, folded neatly with the rest of the bows. Then, when the top is put up, the front-most bow is moved from its bottom attachment back up to the attachment near the top of the second bow! Once all put up and tied forward into place, it is easier to get in and out of the car with that front-most bow up high over people's heads. The reason these are called "two-man" tops is that it is a lot easier to manhandle the various bows and swap positions on both sides with two people. One standing on each side of the car. Two-man touring car tops also usually need to have the second bow along with the front-most bow detached from its attachment point by the front seat, and then moved to stack with the two rear bows when all is down and properly folded. Two-man tops for roadsters and runabouts, usually have only three bows. The two rear bows simply fold or lift up and back down, but with the front-most bow needing to be moved from the bottom or top positions just like the front-most bow on the touring car top. USA built model T Fords used two-man tops through model year 1922 on both touring cars and runabouts. Although they went to a square (rectangle) shaped socket in 1918. Oval or round sockets were used by most everyone else even well into the 1920s one-man tops. Your top could likely be fitted to almost any midsize touring car from 1910 to 1914, and a few a little later. Good era photos or sales literature showing the top up can often tell whether a given make or model of car used one-man or two-man tops. Width or other dimensions may or may not be critical, depending on the car. On a two-man top, length can be altered easily when replacing the top material.

History in the context of its time. There were two real reasons for placing the door in the center that way. One, was structural. With a full box frame forward and rearward of the door, the body was easier to make strong and relatively safe. The other reason was simply cultural. It was a natural progression from enclosed horse drawn carriages to place the door that way. Horse drawn carriages usually had the driver/horseman sitting high outside up front. Smaller enclosed carriages may have had only a single seat with the door forward of the seat and behind the driver. Larger enclosed carriages often had two seats inside, with the door located in the center like this. The forward seat would face to the rear so that passengers could carry on conversations. When adapted to a motorcar, the driver of course needed to face forward, and often the front passenger also faced forward. It should be pointed out that some sedans and larger coupes during the 1910s would have the driver facing forward, but the front passenger facing to the rear! )I have ridden in such a car!). By the end of the 1910s, most manufacturers had gone to what we would now consider more familiar styles of four-door and two-door sedans, coupes, and coaches.