wayne sheldon

Looks like you have wheels for sale? Where they are located (at least within a hundred miles?) would be very important to anyone that may be interested in them. Shipping cost will kill the deal for most people not close by. The lugs say "Jaxon", I don't know if Dodge ever used Jaxon wheels or not? And maybe the lugs are not correct for the wheels? Twenty inch? I might be interested if they were close by and the price was right? I need a couple rims for my Paige tires.

That is a good one! It made me fondly remember the famous vanishing hitchhiker story of Niles Canyon. Growing up in the San Francisco Bay Area, and driving antique automobiles from a young age, I drove through Niles Canyon hundreds of times, often at night. I have met people who claimed to have seen the ghost, and many people that knew someone that had seen it. I can't say that I ever saw that ghost myself. But I may have seen a couple others? It does make one wonder about such things.

Now you sound like a pro! This style of lock ring can be dangerous, if handled incorrectly. Proper care taken they are easy to work with, and relatively safe. Airing them up slowly is the right way to do them. Between antique automobiles and '50s/'60s trucks, I have replaced or repaired similar lock ring wheels many dozens of times! And I never had a cage to air them up in. Careful inspection, airing slowly, and making sure the tire and ring settle in how they belong, all works fine. The people that get hurt or killed by these are the ones that get in a hurry and force the rings quickly resulting in bends and poor fitting, then poor fitting rings do not seat properly, and then they air them up FAST causing the ring to push out with explosive force! It is something to understand and work with properly. Not something to fear. Pay attention, take some precautions, and be safe. One should never forget that the potential explosive force is the psi times the square inches of the tire casing. An antique automobile tire casing can have a couple hundred square inches! Even 10 psi means a potential force of a couple thousand pounds! Now that you have done this once? You can drive and enjoy your wonderful automobile without the fear of getting a flat tire. Keep your spare ready for the convenience of roadside changes (those can happen to ANY car or tire!), knowing that you can repair these tires when the time comes.

Looks like a nice older restoration! With a little work, and a new top, it should make a fine tour car!

No worries. I do wish I could be in the market for it myself. But I cannot. Good luck with the sale, and I do hope the car gets a good home that will restore it properly! It is an incredible piece, and should be seen and heard with stories about its sister cars overseas. I have a small collection of "World War One" (more properly called the "Great War" because that was what it was called in its day) memorabilia, including two nearly complete uniforms. This stuff is important. Simply wonderful!

I have been following this car (NOT closely!) for a few weeks. I wish I could have gone to look at it myself, it isn't all that far from me. But family needs keep being in the way. I also wish it would sell for better money (more!) because this is something I would have loved to have myself a decade or two ago (it would be easier for me to watch it from afar if the price was more beyond my means instead of almost could be done?). At my present stage in life, I simply cannot take on any serious projects (I have several project cars I need to get to work on already, and family problems that keep me from working on them most of the time!). I don't know the people myself, but have not seen anything to make me think it isn't legitimate. Properly restored, it would be a very special vehicle! Albeit one that would not appeal to everyone. Its military parentage might limit its acceptability to some shows and clubs? And it may not hurt it at all? I don't know. Regardless, it is a Locomobile! And would probably be an incredible and impressive tour car! As well as an incredible piece of history! That is my opinion.

Right hand driven means almost anything is possible, right or wrong? It also makes everything questionable. Anybody confirmed what the engine is? When one of our Graham experts is questioning the engine? And the hose doesn't line up in an obvious way?

I am not sure about this particular manufacturer, however, this type of bumper was offered for a number of years, for a wide range of automobiles makes and models and sizes. They were available in several sizes of tubing, length/width sizes, and differing bends and brackets in order to fit so many different automobiles. They were offered as factory options on many cars, as well as after-market models for almost anything. It was very common in the 1910s and 1920s for automobiles to have a bumper on only the front! So using the front you have and not having a rear should be considered correct. If you do want a rear also, then it becomes more about matching what you have than duplicating a non-matching rear from some other car. Simple steel bars, or flatstock bumpers were much more common in the 1920s, while a number of automobiles and after-market sellers used small tubing bumpers. the large tubing bumpers were less common, but look great on a lot of cars! Bumpers, both after-market and factory production on several high end automobiles (like Pierce Arrow!) began showing up around 1910. They didn't start becoming common on many cars until about 1920. The majority of automobile manufacturers did not make bumpers standard equipment until the late 1920s.

I am still here. Sometimes I get to work on my 1915 model T runabout for a little while. I haven't seen much about your WW1 Maxwell project lately. I would imagine it should be pretty much finished by now?

Looks like a Winton.

Something funny there? Are you sure those aren't second hand? The only thing like that I ever saw that looked like that is on one of my cars. Car is not running, and the ancient tubes I had in it were giving up one by one. Finally down to three, I bought two brand new high quality inner tubes to fit. SOMEHOW (don't ask), I managed to break one of the brass stems. My fault, don't blame the manufacturer. Not going to request a replacement, nor did I want to buy another. The stem I broke snapped off about halfway up. So, I cut it back to solid metal, drilled it to fit the end of an old truck brass stem I had cut a couple inches of the end off, and very carefully (so as to not overheat the vulcanized stem enough to compromise the rubber tube) soldered the end in place. That looks a lot like mine! Mine is working fine for a non running car, and I would probably trust it for a car I was driving a lot! The simplest thing to do would be to use it (provided it holds air fine and appears well done?). And put a nice valve stem cover over it. Of course, the big question is, where did you buy it? And should you return it? How much was it? Basically, is having the tube now worth more than going to the trouble to exchange it? And, of course, safety is the most important aspect. If the stem doesn't appear to be safely secured? Replacing the stem would be a better plan. However, most tubes manufactured in the recent twenty years have material chemistry that makes old style chem-bond type stems problematical. I have done antique style brass valve stems on 1920s era cars for many years with great success! However, some newer tubes are so badly made out of flimsy thin artificial material that I have had trouble getting the tube to hold and seal on the stems!

From any practical standpoint, metallic colors were not used on automobiles before the very early 1930s. And even then, only on a very few cars. So I can accept the red on the body, but that color on the fenders and etcetera is no way correct for this car. Almost ten hours to go, the bid is currently just over 25K. The upholstery to me looks like an over-stuffed imitation leather couch I saw sitting on a curb with a "FREE" sign on it. But that is just my opinion. (I didn't see any good pictures of the front upholstery?) If it is mechanically sound? At that price it could still be worthwhile?

Right now, I wish I had been able to keep one. The only things I have left are the project piles I couldn't get anything for them when I needed it.

Wow Chris P! I can't fault you for that choice! What an incredible car! I caught a mention in a forum posting that an Auburn was headed your way. I didn't know that was the reason for selling the Paige, but totally understand.

Mikeing, The "Guest" posting means the person that posted this is no longer a member here. While it might be possible, it is not likely he will be checking old threads of his. It also means that unless direct contact information was included in the original post (apparently not), there is likely no way to contact him (short of someone remembering who it was and personally knowing them?) (Not likely.) You best move might be to start your own "Parts Wanted" thread in the appropriate "Part Wanted" section.

Uh, you MIGHT want to rethink that? WARNING! Thread drift ahead! Although long, I swear every word of this is absolutely TRUE! (Although I would bet not verifiable?) Several years ago, my wife wanted to spend some time with her parents. The sad fact is, that her parents were not good people. I had always tried to be supportive of her, and her desire to have some sort of healthy relationship with them. However, they continued to treat her like dirt, and I eventually had had all I could stand of them. Whereas for years before, I would take her up, and we would both stay for a few (very FEW) days while they would visit, and I would entertain myself around the area they lived, visiting historic sites, antique shops, and even antique automobile friends. Their constant fighting, and abuse of her finally became more than I could watch. So, for the last several years of their lives, I would drive her up, and drop her off for a planned few days (nearly always cut short with her crying from their abuse). My trips amounted to two nearly 600 mile round trips in a few days time, nearly always 600 miles in a single day, each way. One such trip was, shall we say "interesting"? I had dropped her off at her parent's place, and headed South toward home. About thirty miles after leaving their place, I get passed by an unusual looking service truck, with I noticed mid-Western license plates. The truck was several years old, had some odd specialty equipment carriers, Long enclosed tubes, something that looked like it might have been a hoist, ladders, etc. It was painted darkish colors, and ----- -----it had several "DANGER" and "RADIATION" warning stickers on it! A few on those "specialty carriers" that I could not see what was inside! It did look suspicious, but I was in a no-cell service area, and quickly lost sight of them. About twenty miles later, they passed me again. They had been driving considerably faster than I usually drive, so I figured they had pulled off and gotten gasoline. Again, in a no-cell service area, again, I quickly lost sight of them. About thirty miles later, I stopped for gasoline. Then hit the road, only to be passed by them again about ten miles later! I figured they might have stopped for fast-food. Every time they passed me, I wondered about this truck. Should I be suspicious? Should I make a call? (Didn't help that that area of North coast California has a LOT of no-cell area!) And I was nearing the end of that highway for my trip with a turnoff onto another highway. A different highway, now heading East, I figure I have seen the last of them. This particular highway has a lot of slow two lane sections, a few good size hills with nasty twists and turns. The sun is setting, it is getting dark out there. For some reason, I notice a car passing me. The conditions weren't right for it, and if you have ever noticed how certain types of professional drivers handle a car? And then another one. Odd? I am very used to driving winding hilly roads, and if I must say so myself, can usually keep up with most of the best of them! As I come near the end of the worst of that road, I suddenly realize that I am two cars behind "the truck"! And the car behind me is tailgating literally feet behind my big 2001 Expedition's rear bumper! Shortly before the winding road drops onto the floor of the valley (and thirty miles of the straightest two lane you have ever seen!), there is a lookout point, with parking. I can see several cars parked up there as I approach. And all H#!! breaks loose! Just before we pass in front of the lookout's parking, Two cars jump out in front of the "truck"! The car on my bumper AND the car behind him fly around ME and force the "truck" off onto the shoulder! Right behind us, two more cars jump out of the parking lot! Meanwhile a couple of other cars coming from the other direction join in. At least one Sherriff's SUV and a California Highway Patrol! One thing I MUST say! They had their act together! I never stopped. I was prepared to, I dropped my speed to a crawl, gave each of their cars the space they needed, steered around and avoided what could have been collisions while getting out of their way. Whether someone in one of the small towns made a call? Or what I don't know. But they had obviously been following or tracking him for more than an hour. Maybe days? They apparently knew I wasn't with him, cut him out of the traffic, and let me go on my merry way. As I looked back in my rear view mirror. It appeared the highway was closed at that point right behind me. I have no idea for how long. I never saw anything on the news, didn't expect I would. I wonder what they told other people that saw less than I did? I often wonder about it. Were the stickers a joke? Was there a terrorist threat? I will probably never know. I wonder how long it took to put that "capture" together? I counted at least five unmarked dark sedans including the two right behind me. I think at least two each Sherriff Department and Highway Patrol, plus a couple I couldn't see enough to identify. They had at least three arrive early, two right behind me and a couple driving in from the other direction just as they forced him onto the shoulder. Took some planning. It was quite a show, And I had the front row center seat for it! And I am NEVER going to put "radioactive" labels on anything unless it is legitimate and authorized!

Thank you for those pictures Tex! That must be the one that Chris Paulsen had. There can't be two so very original Paige Detroits like that in the world! I don't recall hearing if he sold it or not, but he was advertising it for awhile a year or two ago. I sure like this Paige! I wish I could afford it myself, but that isn't an option. Thanks again for the pictures!

Good luck with finding someone in your area to do the top repair. I don't know anyone within a thousand miles of there that does top restoration, and the one fellow I do know (too far away!) retired a couple years ago. Touring car tops are not hard to do, but there are some tricks to help getting it right. There is a model T website that had a good article on do it yourself a couple years ago. Model T Fords have do it yourself top kits that a lot of people use. I don't know if there such a thing available for a Dodge Brothers touring car or not.

It is an odd one. The interesting to me detail is that cylinders 1 & 2 and 3 & 4 have a narrow space between them. Most mono blocks and "cast-in-pairs" engines that era had those cylinders connected. Other than Ford's model T, in 1910, mono blocks were only used by a very few automobile manufacturers. The very apparent lack of a starter might mean that it should be about 1914 or earlier if is from a car? Although some trucks did not have starters for several more years. Overall design and construction looks like it should be between 1910 and 1914, however there are always exceptions to the rules. Quality of the casting isn't very nice, so I would expect a low production car and/or engine builder. Intake manifold looks typical for the era, however the exhaust with only three ports is unusual. That coupled with the spaces between the cylinders and early mono block style should make it easy to recognize. Provided someone has seen one up close before! Good luck! I do hope it can find someone that needs it for the right car. Too nice to not be used where it belongs.

Neat car! This car was for sale on eBay a couple years ago, and for about a year. I looked at the listing often, couldn't buy anything at the time. It obviously does need some work. Some of the car wasn't prepared properly for the paint it received. Otherwise, the car looks pretty good. A bit small, probably underpowered for the era, but I really like the style. I hope it finds a good home.

Always a wonderful feeling to hear one run again for the first time! (As long as there were no nasty noises? And you said there weren't!)

Must be a hundred good shops doing automotive tops with good reputations from coast to coast! Where are you located? Makes a huge difference for recommendations. Some people have gotten good service from boat shops. However, proper fitting is somewhat different for antique automobiles than it is for boats. Be sure to have several good pictures of what your car should look like finished when you check into any such shops.

It is not the top I would be worried about ruining. It is everything underneath the top! If the top doesn't shed water reasonably well? One good rain could lead to serious rust issues (could take years to show up?), total destruction of upholstery materials (could show up in months), or even lead to wood rotting issues. Numerous types of top materials were used back in the day, some based on canvas, others on oil-soaked cloth of several types. Many materials used for automobile tops were not much different (except for chemically being synthetic?) than Naugahyde (which is actually a modern trade name!), or other similar modern top materials. Colors and surface patterns of course varied considerably over the years. Your car currently has some sort of off-white cloth material, and may or may not have had something similar when it was new. When the car was new, the top material should have been somewhat water repellent. However, it may not have been really good at it. Quite frankly, Even most high end automobiles were not expected to survive and be in regular use for several decades! If there was some minor seepage, or leaks around the seams or edges, it may not have been considered a problem. Today, we should care whether our nearly hundred year old cars can survive the next century. To that end, we should make a bit of an effort to make sure that if we get caught in the rain? That the top can do its job well enough to not cause serious problems. I can't think of any really good way to test the top. Subjecting it to enough water to see what happens could do considerable harm if it fails the test. There must be some good top dressing out there that would make the material, and seams, all shed water all the while looking good? Scotch Guard is a great product for many things! And lousy at others. Some years back, several companies were pushing Scotch Guarded towels. They were HORRIBLE! What good is a towel that refuses to soak up water? I don't know if it would work for what you need or not? I sure would like to hear from someone that has tried it? Another possibility might be to get a yard of similar type material? Treat it, and then hang the piece in something like a basketball hoop and fill it with a gallon of water. See what happens? Just a thought?

It looks like there were a lot of really nice cars at that meet! And that Locomobile is yours jrbartlett? Nice! The Paige looks like the one Chris Paulsen had. He had it for sale for some time, but I never heard whether he sold it or not?

That Locomobile Sportif looks like one I have followed on a few nickel era club tours! Did it used to live in California?