wayne sheldon

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Everything posted by wayne sheldon

  1. Nice! Good luck with the Metz!
  2. Metz front and rear axles there, with some springs. Rear axle appears to have the Metz optional wire wheels available on the model 22s. They look like 1912 to '14. Although it needs a lot of work, I would think the price for that body is quite reasonable. I have seen a few Cadillac chassis for sale over the past few years (mostly on eBad or the HCCA site.
  3. ?????????????? Now, WHY would ANYONE piggyback an apparently nice (?) Auburn for sale onto one of the WORST "for sale" screw-ups posted in a year?????? 1915, no, 1930-something. CADILLAC! No, Buick. Phaeton! NO sedan. Clearly the OP knows NOTHING about what they have or what they are doing with it. So why not lose a totally unrelated Auburn onto it? Makes NO sense in ANY universe? Regardless of whether the dealer is honorable or not? Sorry. I think I had a bad day.
  4. Pardon me for becoming paranoid. But I have stumbled into two of Juan Ramon's three postings. Appears he has a few very rare cars for sale. He has dredged up this old Paige for sale ad and an unknown maybe Auburn project ad, adding in his own for sale maybe onto them. Maybe I should look for number three? The "maybe Auburn" addition includes a '32 Boat-tail. One should wonder?
  5. I suspect it is pre-'15, but not by much. Stewart was not common much earlier, and the size and odometers look later rather than earlier styles.. The "clock needle" type speedometers were more common before 1915 than they were after, however, there were exceptions. The mounting suggests it was surface mounted on a flat firewall. That also suggests something before 1915. Some vehicles continued to require surface mounted speedometers for years later, however most of those like trucks likely would not want a 60 mph version.
  6. I haven't tried to look at facebook more than a few times in the past six years! My internet connection is too slow and their geeks are too self-absorbed to understand that not everyone in the world has reasonable access to true "high-speed" internet. Every time I have tried to look at something that might be of interest to me? The download crashes due to all their glitz and dancing goo-gaws long before it can load anything. I wanted to SEE the " '15 Cadillac barn find".
  7. Marketing hasn't changed much in a hundred years (although I think it has gotten somewhat worse!). They have always twisted language to give an illusion of something "better", "sportier", or simply something else you MUST have. No wonder we today have so much trouble trying to figure out what we should call our cars! Is it a "two-door sedan"? Is it a "coach"? Or maybe a "five passenger coupe"? All describe the same enclosed body "forward set" two door car with folding seats in the front to gain access into the rear bench seat. Just different names by different marques, in different years of marketing.
  8. Interest is easy to come by! Money not so much. After nearly thirty years of the most corrupt government since the fall of the Roman Empire, the lower end hobbyists have been hit really hard with under-employment and outsourcing. What we have today was totally predictable. I know Eric through a model T forum. Although I have never met him in person or seen the car myself, I know him to be an excellent caretaker of our wonderful model Ts and know that if I could afford such a car, he would be a person I would seriously consider buying from. Without a solid base of passionate hobbyists with a couple hundred dollars to spend every month, the only part of our hobby that might survive is the upper echelon collecting million dollar cars. Without that lower base of hobbyists, the lower end cars in the hobby may yet find themselves relegated again to the back forty, or sent as recycling to Korea once China has its belly full. Sorry for the rant, and the drift. But you asked. It isn't the lack of interest. It is the near total lack of discretionary income for the majority of the nation.
  9. Marmon and Hudson also built "speedster" models in the early '20s. Generally, the "speedster" touring cars had about an inch or so lower sides on the body, and a slightly narrower rear seat than the full five passenger touring car. Some years ago, I went on a Nickel Age touring Club tour that had two Marmon speedsters on it (there was actually a third one in the club!), and a '21 Hudson speedster (said to be a four passenger due to the narrower rear seat).
  10. It is likely an Overland axle. however, the wheel hubs look to be model T Ford. One of them may be a slightly desirable mid-'10s with the shoulder for the factory offered speedometer gear (slightly desirable and MAY be worth a few bucks, but don't send the kids to college yet!). Chevrolet also had a similar axle, but I think most of theirs had four bolts for each side spring. A couple other parts may be model T, but the axle IS NOT! Wheels, rims, spindles and other parts were similar enough on several smaller makes of cars that many of those parts can be interchanged with very little modification. The whole assembly has apparently been modified to be used under a small trailer (it appears the tie rod is bent and clamped to the axle in the middle, a common easy way to lock the wheels straight for trailer use). Such trailers were very common back in the days when people were doing well to have one motorcar, very few had a car and a small truck. Such trailers were also often used to carry camping supplies.
  11. I was expecting to see pictures of two narrow strips of concrete running alongside the house to a single car in the rear!
  12. The ten spoke front wheel should eliminate about ninety percent of marques. But I don't see anything that jumps at me for a first guess.
  13. No door on the right indicates a right hand driven car. That indication is not absolute, there were exceptions. Because most people were (are) right handed, and gear shifting in the early straight gear cone clutch days was difficult to say the least, the gear shift for most cars (again, there were quite a few exceptions!) was placed for use by the right hand. Those big gate-shift mechanisms made ingress and egress nearly impossible on the right of a right hand drive car, so many of them, even high quality and expensive cars like the Cadillac, simply put NO door there. Interesting to note. A good friend of mine has a '10s era Pierce Arrow, right hand driven, big gate shifted lever and brake handle. A little undersize door, with the factory mounted spare tire outside the door. The door is as useless as anything one could imagine. Yet, there it is. How about some pictures of the Metz parts? (I see a front axle with hub and spring in the picture above!) Are you restoring a Metz?
  14. I adapted an old (fairly well built) BBQ rotisserie (found at a Salvation Army Store), built a simple stand, a removable shaft and several clamps and adapters to hold a variety of old style wheels. I didn't alter the speed at all, and it seems to work fine. It may be a bit fast for ease of painting, but I usually do have to go around a few times to get good coverage. I can actually put two wheels on it at a time, however I find that makes painting difficult. Usually, just one wheel, paint and work on other stuff for a couple hours while the paint sets nice. For whatever it is worth? I usually use it for wooden spoke wheels. But it should work okay with other types as well.
  15. I don't see any detail that can clearly say the photo is or isn't reversed. I am not certain about those mid '10s years, but most years, Studebaker did export cars with right hand drive to countries that preferred them that way. Been quite a few years, but I seem to recall a mid '10s Studebaker that was an export model and right hand drive. I know they were doing that by the early '20s, because I have followed some restorations being done in Australia and New Zealand of right hand drive cars.
  16. I think you will find that this is a 1916/'17 Studebaker ED-6 seven passenger. This car has stamped crowned fenders. Buick in '15 and I believe '16 still had flatter style rolled and beaded fenders. Studebaker started putting stamped fenders on the six cylinder cars in 1914, one of the first major manufacturers to do so. There were several really low production cars that used smooth formed fenders a few years earlier, but those fenders were largely hand made over wooden forms. It should be noted that one of the other earliest cars with smooth fenders was Pierce Arrow, also about 1914. A long-time good friend of mine has a '15 Buick (the big one, C-55?), as do a few other friends as well. I used to have a 1915 Studebaker ED-6 similar to this one, but with wooden wheels. I am not sure about Buick in those years, but I don't think wire wheels were offered from the factory, yet. I am fairly sure Studebaker did offer wire wheels at least by 1917, and I think '16. Note, Studebaker did not use "year models" in those years, preferring to refer to the cars by a "series" number instead. This car could be either a series 17 (mostly manufactured during 1916), or a series 18 (mostly manufactured in 1917). This car cannot be a 1915 built series 16 because I can see the gasoline tank in the frame at the back of the body, and the radiator splash apron in the front. Both of those features came out with the introduction of the series 17 beginning late in December 1915. Wonderful photo! Thank you for posting it.
  17. Well, Grant looks like a good possibility.
  18. I do believe that tire could be from the time frame of the car, however, I would doubt that it was original to the car when it was new. Such knobby tires were common in mud and snow areas, and also used on tractor conversions. I would imagine that some vehicles did offer them on new from the factory. However, I doubt many road automobiles did. I look at a lot of era photographs, often zooming in close enough to see tire treads. The number of knobby tires I have seen on fairly new cars could be counted on the fingers of one hand. I also believe that decent surviving tires from the era should be preserved as part of automobilia. Whether they are the manufacturer's factory original tires or not. I have several that I am preserving myself. A few from the '27 Paige my dad bought back in '67, two tires of which may be factory originals (or not?). I also have a few model T size tires that are not Ford originals, a couple pre-WWII Wards Riverside (which are slightly different from everything made in the '50s or later), and a nice Hood Arrow. Preserving them is a bit difficult, they need to be kept in a cool dark place.
  19. My first thought (hope?) was Paige when I first glanced at the photo. But that was because I have had some interest in Paige automobiles for a long time. And, It does closely resemble the smaller Paige automobiles of 1916/'17. However, most Paige cars used a distinctive hubcap from 1916 through 1925. Earlier ones were cast brass, later ones formed aluminum, but they all looked pretty similar. Nearly all had the Paige name script in a sort of diamond shape (on the hex for the hubcap wrench), with a large donut (ring?) shape behind it. Look at the picture posted by Keiser31. Note also, that both the front and rear hubcaps are the same! The OP photo car has different hubcaps front and rear, and neither of them look like the Paige hubcap. Looking at the full size image (right click on the photo, open in new tab), the detail isn't quite good enough, but it looks to me that the front hubcap might read "Oakland". That would be my guess.
  20. I just wanted to comment further. This looks to be a very nice example of the IHC model MW. I have known a few owners of these, they make one of the best two cylinder tour cars for HCC one and two cylinder tours. Relatively fast (30ish max), a bit rough riding, but not bad. Carry all the picnic supplies you need, and fairly reliable (again relative to other cars of the era). I came close to buying one about fifteen years ago. One can never be certain without close inspections, but it looks like one of the nicest IHC MWs I have ever seen. I just had to go through some of those pictures again. Wish I could afford something like this. Additional historic note. 1913 is the first year for the MW, which stands for "Motorwagon" "Water-cooled". Before 1913, all IHCs were air-cooled, and no such designation was used. The two models both only continued a short time, but the air-cooled model was called the "MA", for "Motorwagon" "Air-cooled". This particular configuration continued through 1915 with some modifications, including the wheels getting smaller which hurt their look appeal for us today, as they worked toward a more conventional truck design. The Motorwagons were intended to be both family car and ranch truck. Almost like being the first crossover SUV.
  21. C Carl, I had a snide comment to make (no evil intentions I assure you!), but decided to make it here instead of on the other thread as it will bump this back up and maybe someone else with good advice can wonder about it and see what it may be about. Keep the technical thread just about technical advice. And sorry I don't know what the little white thing is. What ever you do, don't send your helpers up here to assist fixing my "Broken-eggs-pedition"! The fuel pump died. Funeral will be Tuesday. I am dreading crawling under and around the thing to replace it. I also wanted to add that you are correct about slow speed braking and checking for appropriate and/or inappropriate temperature differences. On my original suggestions, I debated about mentioning that myself. These days I like (however rarely need or use) my "laser"/LED infrared pointer thermometer. I bought mine years ago when cheap ones were still about a hundred bucks, but it has a temperature range to up about 1000 degrees Fahrenheit. It has been a very handy test tool for years now. For more than forty years before I bought it, I just touched with hands or fingers and made judgement calls on temperature. I still do that much more often than using the fancy thing. I routinely check antique and trailer wheel bearings, occasionally check brakes and wheel bearings on my modern cars, and touch with my hands to find failing electrical connections. Just a couple years back, I discovered a breaking wheel bearing on my car trailer that way. Found it after the keeper had broken and fallen out (a factory or dealer error in assembly, the pieces were stuck in the grease cap), and not many miles before the wheel could have come off on the highway! Still well greased, but not running true, the wheel hub was warm to my routine touch. I had just completed a short haul, and was heading home. Next day I pulled the wheel off.
  22. Current bid is $6600? If he could get it for twice that it would be for half what it is worth! The OP sounds suspicious. I think he needs to learn a bit more before spending too much. I seriously doubt that the BaT seller would let it go for under $25K. The last one of those I saw for sale near that nice was I think a bit over-priced at about $40K. The OP certainly needs to find some better experts to listen to.
  23. Have a friend help. Jack up and safely block up all four wheels (it isn't a three axle is it?). Use engine to turn rear wheels (low or mid gear would be fine, doesn't need to be fast), and press brake pedal. Make sure both rear wheels brake evenly, and quickly. Then (engine off is fine), have friend spin front wheels one at a time. Make sure both of those brake quickly with moderate pressure. This should tell you if the wheel cylinders are functioning. It is also not uncommon for the mechanical mountings of brake shoes to rust and prevent the shoes from extending and doing their job. Either thing could prevent one or more shoes on one or more wheels to not function. Another thought, I am "assuming it doesn't have disc brakes that early? Either way the same test works to test brake function and determine which if any wheels are not working. Disc brake calipers also can rust while sitting and fail to operate. I had that one happen myself. Good luck! And drive carefully.
  24. A lot of model T people like to collect things made from model T pieces. I have a forge blower, the crank handle on it is made from a model T brake handle! That garden cart could be a nice addition to such a collector. Restore it with care, make it like it was many years ago, and you will have something special.
  25. A very interesting piece of art regardless of its original purpose, or age. It would be admired by many. One point of clarification. Right hand drive or left hand drive is based upon the side of the car, the front is always the front. And the right side is always the car's right. It is never the "hand" of someone looking at the car from the front. In the early days of the automobile, most cars were driven on/from the right side of the car. This evolved down from traditions going back many years in horse and carriage days. In the early days of the automobile, traffic was sparse, and roads were bad. It made sense to drive automobiles from the right side of the car to watch the edge of the road. As things progressed, and traffic became heavier, it became more important to watch the left side of the car as cars passed each other going opposite directions. A number of car companies started switching to left hand side driving even as early as 1900. However, Ford's model T was the big switch beginning in 1909. Welcome to one of the best forums for antique automobiles on the web!