bikemikey
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Posts posted by bikemikey
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ED17 got off the 9999 and started to move, ED19 and ED20 are moving as well. One of the symptoms of this car is that it is hard to start, you have to lay on the starter a couple of seconds before it catches. I've read where a knock sensor can cause this as well as a fuel relay, but the fuel relay is only for starting the car, it would not affect anything after that, am I wrong on that? I also added some additives to the gas to clean out the injectors, I wonder if that could be a problem, the fuel filter has already been changed. I don't have a manual , when I locate the knock sensor I think I'll change it out , it's probably the original one, I've read where it is located by the oil filter. Any thoughts on the fuel relay.
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Okay, I did the override with the injectors, they were all about the same, maybe a little difference, hard to tell. Here is the other info: ED16 Spark advance - 0 ED17 Old Pas -9999 ED18 Cross counts 0 ED19 Fuel Injector -128 ED20 BLM 128. Hope that helps, thanks
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I could not find any gas in the fuel regulator, I'll try to override the injectors and see what happens.
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Those 02 readings are at idle, they stay about the same cold or warm. As the engine gets to operating temperature it smoothes out a little better, but it's still there. The engine revs up hot or cold, so I don't think there's a restriction. I sprayed some brake cleaner on the engine trying to find any vacuum leaks, probably not the right thing to use for that, but I could not find any leaks. Is there a way the computer can tell you if the fuel injectors are working properly?
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After fixing a battery connector problem, previous post, I now have another issue. When I start the engine, cold, it idles fine, revs okay, but as it starts to warm up and go into closed loop mode, it starts to get a rough idle. I don't want to get lengthy here but I've done a lot to this engine. I did a tap test to the maf, engine didn't change, cleaned the iac, new iat sensor underneath air box. Parts store show a map sensor for this engine, but I can't find it? There's a sensor underneath the iac , when I tried to unthread the sensor it started to leak water so I backed off. I think this is an egr vacuum switch, but the egr checks out okay, it clicks and stumbles when testing. Under diagnostics the o2 sensor swings wildly, like from .11 to .91, I don't know if it's supposed to work that way? The rpms jump around, but stay within the 700 range, voltage stays steady so I think that's okay. I think the fuel injectors are the originals, no codes. 120,000 miles on engine. Thanks
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I'm going to reset them to .045 and see what happens, this should help the rough idle problem. I had this same issue with a ford escort, but I had to go the other way, I opened them up and the idle improved. Thanks
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I've got an 89 Reatta with all new ignition module , wires ," stock plugs" and a Magnavox coil. I understand that some members like to set the spark plug gap at .045 for the Magnavox coil, I set mind at .060 like the sticker says under the hood. I understand some are looking for economy or performance, I'm just looking for the smoothest idle possible, should I try resetting them to .045 or just leave them alone. Thanks
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I'll try that washer trick on the bolts , makes sense. I've gone through all the grounds that I know up except the one on the cross member by the radiator, I'll look for it. Interesting links. Thanks
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After my test ride yesterday I thought all was well until I started the car this morning, I got a battery warning again to my surprise . I noticed the ground cable was loose after installing new bolts and the computer threw a code E 039 which I believe is a torque converter clutch circuit. After I tightened the cable ,the warnings and codes went away. I also tried a new battery from my truck to see if I had a problem with a bad battery but the mild erratic idle was still there. I'm leaning towards a bad fuel injector but that's another thread. I'm wondering if my alternator could be causing the idle problem with weak diodes, or not? It seems to be charging okay. How would you test for that? Thanks
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After installing those bolts yesterday, I took the Reatta for a test ride today, the engine ran a lot smoother. Now for some new tires!!
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While working on my 89 reatta I've disconnected the battery a few times, today I noticed a battery warning on the dash. After further inspection I noticed the factory bolts that bolt to the battery had only about three threads on them. I picked up some new ones at the Zone , they were threaded all the way. After installing, the engine seemed to run a little smoother . I wonder now if I had a problem all along even though I was not getting a battery warning until now. Anyway, I thought I would pass this along , I know battery cables should be tight as possible.
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2seater, I'll do as you suggest while I'm finding another one. The purge valve in the car is probably the original one which makes it about 24 years old, won't hurt to replace it with something newer. Thanks for that info. Have a nice day.
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As far as I know there are no codes or warnings. Do you think it would be okay to unplug the electrical connector or just leave it alone. If I understand you correctly, you're saying the ecm will take care of the problem , that is if there is a problem, right? There is a salvage yard near by, I'll call them tomorrow. Thanks
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When going through my 89 buick reatta checking for problems I pulled the evap canister and changed the filter on the very bottom of it, I assume it's full of charcoal and that's all you can do with it? When checking the evap purge valve I pulled a light vacuum on the smallest hose fitting. I then tested the electrical pins with 12 volts direct from the battery, nothing happen, it did not release the vacuum. I tried it again , then I noticed it blew a 10 amp blade fuse I had on the ground side. I hope I did not destroy the valve by hitting it with 12 volts? My problem is , I can't find a place to buy one, they say they are discontinued, I have not tried the buick dealer yet. I was wondering if they make a universal evap valve for this car? I was also curious if I could temporary by pass the valve for now because I need the car real bad. What would be the effects of doing this? Thanks, Mike
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I'll give it a try, thanks
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Ronnie, thanks so much for that info, that pretty much sums it up. I read the owners manual , but it looks like I skipped over that one. There's probably not much else wrong with the car other than clogged injectors , the car sat for a long time. Thanks everyone for your help.
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Back again. After driving the car around a little bit I checked the computer. After touching the off and warm buttons , the computer showed no ecm codes but it did show some history codes, b552 and c553. I think were the confusion comes in , there is a status button which shows 4 headings, engine controls, charging systems, engine temp and oil pressure. With the key on , engine not running , each one shows ok in their perspective boxes. When I touch each box where it says ok, each one has a problem with it, this is where I am getting the cruise control message. Is the engine suppose to be running before I use this button? The car actually ran pretty good, the idle seems to be getting better with the fuel injector cleaner. Thanks
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Thanks everyone for your replies. I did something really stupid, after posting the message it dawned on me that I had been disconnecting the battery , on and off, while replacing the fusible links, Whoops! . That's probably why the codes are not showing up right away. I probably should drive the car a little and see what happens. I plan to get familiar with the computer in this car today, I'll get back to you and let you know what I find. Thanks again
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My 89 reatta computer under diagnostics when I push engine ok it says cruise control disengaged electrical problem. The other thing is the abs light now stays on all the time where sometimes it would come on for a while then go away the next time I would start the car. Some of the things I did to the cruise control servo, I did an ohms test to the five pins, seems to be okay, pull a vacuum on the two ports, both ways but it won't hold a vacuum, maybe it's suppose to be that way, I don't know. When I push the cruise button it lights up if that helps. The symptoms of the car, are it starts okay ,sometimes a little rough but it starts, the best idle is when it's cold until it starts going into closed loop mode. The idle feels like there is a mild resistance , a short somewhere, it does rev up okay, not a problem there. Some other things I've done to the car, new fuel filter, checked fuel pump and regulator, air filter, changed out all fusible links by the battery, cleaned throttle body, maf, iac, checked mat, new Magnavox ignition coil and module, wires and plugs gapped at .060. , new o2 sensor. I also added fuel injector cleaner to the gas plus sea foam before I changed the fuel filter. I also cleaned the egr , with engine off I can hear the solenoid valves clicking but when engine running I can't get it to make the engine stumble, I might be doing something wrong there. It's not throwing any codes, I'm confused. I appreciate any help you can give me. Thanks
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89 Reatta runs fine cold, runs rough when warms up
in Buick Reatta
Posted
I'm sorry, I meant the starter relay which I've already changed, it probably would not hurt to have an extra fuel pump relay on hand in case I need one. I bought a knock sensor , as soon as I get it installed I'll get back to you.