Mrutter59

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Everything posted by Mrutter59

  1. Thanks for your answer. I have a service manual ( and a lot of questions) now and there is a little difference in setting the sec. float level. There is a Toe level and a have wedge type floats and i think it has a dimple...means that when i have measure the drop level 1-5/18 its nearly in bottom of he float bowl? Slow idle adjustment: must i have a throttle return check Holding Fixture gauge in place...i dont have one of those so is there another way to do it? Do you have any numbers for the distance and picture of where it should be placed? Throttle return check: clearance between the contact screw and throttle lever contact..where is that located? A have a ac car and the ac is not installed for the moment. The carb dont have a idle compensator, and i dont know what that does? We also installed a new vaccum standard advance, sens the old one was dead. Means that the other carb that was one the car, a Edelbrook 4 barrel, was tuned whit the engine in a different way. I see that when i check the ignition timing...there is 3 marks on the wheel next to the engine front and they are about 1in. before a setting "nob"? that sticks out from the engine front. (Its on the right side from engine front center) Is that the correct mark for setting the ign. timing? Cant see anything else that looks like marks..are they located under the waterpump so i dont see them? I dont have points/condeser, but have a accell system. Its like the MSD. I am going to take the carb apart and look at everything...there is one thing whit the choke system...its divided in 3 parts...the upper rod one is not in a hole but is sliding in a "trac". The consequence of this is that 1. the fast idle screw dont end up on the lowest part of the idle cam and 2. the lok up system dont set the secondary throttle arm free....means the car is only running with 2 barrels active, not 4.. howe do i block the upper choke lever from sliding, `couse when i hold it in place with my finger and then press down the hole choke linkage, it works nice. Well, a lot of q:s but if you dont ask, you dont learn...it seams that the Rochester i a bit difficult to adjust and a hope its worth the effort to change to the original carb. Again, thanks for your answers and help M
  2. Hi. have a Rochester 4 jet that gives my some trouble. Have it on a 1962 olds 98 with a 394 engine. It have a dash pot and automatic choke. I need help to adjust the fast idle screw/choke cam setting, idle mixture screws, float level. The car runs ok in speed up to 20-30 m/h, runs ruff and uneven in range of 30 - 60. Higher speed its ok. A have been trying to find adjustment specs for this carb but its not so easy...carb number is 7020950. Any help is welcome. /M
  3. Thank you Rusty for your very exellent answer on the oil issue.I just buy some sae30 oil from Castrol. Now i have another problem that i think is more serius. When i open the hood there was whater around 2 sparkplugs. No 2 and 3, from front. I problem some days before, the car just stop and refused to start. Now it has been standing some days. Well i dryed it from water and when i pushed the start button, it bubbles up like air/water around the sparkplugs. ???
  4. Thanks. And how about the discussion of detergent or not and mineral or not?
  5. Hi. The speedometer cable is fixed. Now i have some problems with the oilpressure. It is about 40 when i drive but when i stopp at a redlight,it goes down to like 20 or less. And after stopping and then try to start, it is difficult to start again, takes a wile, it doesent build up enough pressure. A friend say, it could depend on the motor oil. I have Castrol 50-50 in the engine.Is that not correct?
  6. Okey. what oil do i juse and how do i do it.
  7. First, thank you Comodore for all your help, really presiate that. Well a new noice have appeard. I was hoping to drive the car home today but....the noice is more like "sparkling" and at the same time, the speedometer nidle moves like a ping pong boll over the display. It comes and goes, at first in higner speed but after a wile, even in lover. What in the world is that?
  8. Hi. I have rechecked the voltage, now from +terminal on battery to bat/relay and there was 5.7volt. Correct? I took a nother ign.coil and trimed the rpm with a laser tester to aprox. 457rpm. Then i testdrived and,now it shift from 3 to 4 and back in good order. Still its to much voltage between batery and generator, and i am not shure about were the ground stripes should be. But now i can take the car home from were it is. Garage is in another village. Wow,i am happy.
  9. Now i am back from the garage and i have made the shanges in the wireing. Things did happen. The relay is now quiet.I tested the voltage on the relay whit engine running, and here it is; The TH terminal on relay have 6 volt. The BAT terminal have now 035 volt, it was 2,8 before. SOL terminal also have 0.35volt. PRI have 2,6volt and INT have 2.6volt. I take the car for same testrunning and it did shift up and down, not pefektly well. I did same fix with the idle rpm but its still a little bit "hard" in the shifting. I have filled in new oil, iso32 hydralic and perhaps the gearbox must be running a wile first so it shifts better. But as a hole, this is a big step forward...
  10. Oki. I will go to teh garage right now and try this out. This wiring is different from the one in my Shop manual so this should be interesting. Thank you for your advice.
  11. Your guess is correct. So if i switch the terminals, the wire from bat on relay will be conected to the +terminal on the coil. The wires on coil + terminal should then be ignition switch and relay-bat. On the -terminal of the coil it should be distrubutor and the wire from the pri terminal on relay? Or is it three wires on the +terminal on the coil?
  12. I have check it out and yhe ignition coil is hot in state A and B.
  13. Hallo again. The car is still not running. With all new wires from the relay, to trans, ignitionswich and carb its still noicy, I change all bad wires i find, to generator,starter solenoid. Still not getting the 6 volt i need to bat terminal on relay. What i did found was that the volt is to high between battery and terminal on generator. 5 instead of 0.35. And between the a and b terminals on the voltregulator its 5v, should be 0.12. So i have one electric circle with less volt and one with to much. Also the ignition coil is very hot. I am thinking of the generator not letting out proper amount of volt. Or the ignitioncoil, or the starter swich, button. How about ground straps? Were should they be? Annyone?
  14. I found some 10w non-detergent motor oil on Amazon from Kendall. Is that what you refering to?
  15. I will reecheck it tomorrow. Maby it is something wrong with the wire to the ignition switch.Q about the oil pressure gauge. When i take it out for cleening, do i have to empty the engine of oil first?
  16. Oki, i look in to that later. Was at the garage today and starded up the car. The relay is still making noice, even after i change the wiring. The wire to guv. on trans is conected. Everything between the trans and the relay is new, from icnition coil to relay is new wiring. Still low on volt to Bat on relay, 2.8.It did some upshift, when wire from guv to relay is off. Another thing is that the kickdown unit on the carb start to making noice? after the ree-wiring. And when i changed the wirers, Bat and pri on its places at the ign.coil the noice stoped. At the relay to? No shift at all. Guv wire still off. Hmmm...i will change the ign.coil tomorrow and se what happens. Or its volt loss between generator and ign. coil. On top of this, the oil precure droped from 40 to 20-30, just like that when i was test driving. I know where to look but still.....
  17. i found some iso vg32,is that the correct oil?
  18. Q about the oil, is it mineral, parafin, syntetic? Its cost a litle bit more here, around 15dollar per liter.
  19. More good advice, i thank you for that. Yes i know about the access plate, i toke the hole floor away, like i did when we cange the master brake cylinder. Of course i tryed to do it with the floor on first....hmm.. And yes i hope that this will make the gear shift nice and keep the relay quiet. next thing is to trac down some TDH iso 32 oil and i have good hopes for that. I am thinking of flushing the trans with fotogen first?
  20. Thank you Rusty, i will do just that. I was in the garage today and started to ree-wiring from the trans to the relay. Wow. There was some nasty conections, they hade just "twist together" the wire from TH on relay to the guvernor with the wire to the kickdown on the carburator.The same with the wire from solenoid on the trans to the magnetic dashpot on the carb. This could be the why ther is a volt dropi n the system.So, your advice about the electric wiring seems to be just righ. I will also change the wires from Bat and Int on relay to ignision coil and ree-wiring from carb to relay, that is dashpot and kickdown.Feels good to have that done.
  21. ok, that narrows it down a bit.Thanks.The wiring diagram looks like the one in my shop manual so i will dig in to it.
  22. I just did that voltmeter test from bat to relay in 3 different ways; 1 engine off, 2 egnition on and 3 engine running. My battery hade 6.2v. In no.1 test 4 off 5 terminals hade the same v. Int.terminal hade 4.04v. In test 2 the v. droped on Int. to 3.94v. and the Pri.terminal drops to 0,24v. In test 3 the Bat.terminal drop to 2,8v , Pri.terminal to 0.15v, Int. to 2,8v, and the TH. to 2,8v. The only terminal that hade the same v in the tests was to Solenoid.One thing in this wiring circuit is the Pri. wire. It has 2 groundet points.1 is on the realy and 2 is at the ignition coil end. I tested the volt on the second end and it was 6.2? Is there anything wrong in this tests? Rusty; what you said about the solenoid seems to be logic. But i found a nother one whit 9c so before i buy i new one i have to be sure.
  23. Hi. Thanks agin. Another q about the solenoid. My has the marks;7A 6v DC sss4002 Electric Auto lite co Toledo Ohio. When replace it, what is 7A standing for and does it matter if a new one have ec.12B and the rest is the same? Mats
  24. Okey Bob. You are right about that there no one left who can keep it in shape, so to be my one expert is what its take. I learn to do a carburator tune-up tanks to the Shopmanual, so way not the same with the trans. Thanks for the support on this q. Looks like a god site to visit for trouble shooting q:s. Best, Mats
  25. Thanks c49er. Well i have same wireing to do then.Was thinking of replace same of the old and dry ones anyway. Just is no fun to buy a new and expencive relay, just to find it making the same noice as the old one.Is there same way to check out the relay when its dissconected?One q;so its possible to drive the car like regulary with out the autotrans funktion on?No harm to the gearbox? You said "sometimes troublesome trans..." Well i have been looking in the Master tech.service thats on this sight. Its seems to be a complex system of electric, rpm, speed, mechanic and pneumatic preesure gear system that crysler built.Looks like hightech at the time..but fragile? Same one having a simple 3gear manual leftover? Mats