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About Mrutter59

  • Rank
    Junior Member
  • Birthday 02/06/1959


  • Biography
    A 50+ guy from Sweden who loves old cars. For the moment it is a -46 deSoto custom sedan.
  1. Thanks for your answer. I have a service manual ( and a lot of questions) now and there is a little difference in setting the sec. float level. There is a Toe level and a have wedge type floats and i think it has a dimple...means that when i have measure the drop level 1-5/18 its nearly in bottom of he float bowl? Slow idle adjustment: must i have a throttle return check Holding Fixture gauge in place...i dont have one of those so is there another way to do it? Do you have any numbers for the distance and picture of where it should be placed? Throttle return check: clearance between the contact screw and throttle lever contact..where is that located? A have a ac car and the ac is not installed for the moment. The carb dont have a idle compensator, and i dont know what that does? We also installed a new vaccum standard advance, sens the old one was dead. Means that the other carb that was one the car, a Edelbrook 4 barrel, was tuned whit the engine in a different way. I see that when i check the ignition timing...there is 3 marks on the wheel next to the engine front and they are about 1in. before a setting "nob"? that sticks out from the engine front. (Its on the right side from engine front center) Is that the correct mark for setting the ign. timing? Cant see anything else that looks like marks..are they located under the waterpump so i dont see them? I dont have points/condeser, but have a accell system. Its like the MSD. I am going to take the carb apart and look at everything...there is one thing whit the choke system...its divided in 3 parts...the upper rod one is not in a hole but is sliding in a "trac". The consequence of this is that 1. the fast idle screw dont end up on the lowest part of the idle cam and 2. the lok up system dont set the secondary throttle arm free....means the car is only running with 2 barrels active, not 4.. howe do i block the upper choke lever from sliding, `couse when i hold it in place with my finger and then press down the hole choke linkage, it works nice. Well, a lot of q:s but if you dont ask, you dont seams that the Rochester i a bit difficult to adjust and a hope its worth the effort to change to the original carb. Again, thanks for your answers and help M
  2. Hi. have a Rochester 4 jet that gives my some trouble. Have it on a 1962 olds 98 with a 394 engine. It have a dash pot and automatic choke. I need help to adjust the fast idle screw/choke cam setting, idle mixture screws, float level. The car runs ok in speed up to 20-30 m/h, runs ruff and uneven in range of 30 - 60. Higher speed its ok. A have been trying to find adjustment specs for this carb but its not so easy...carb number is 7020950. Any help is welcome. /M
  3. Thank you Rusty for your very exellent answer on the oil issue.I just buy some sae30 oil from Castrol. Now i have another problem that i think is more serius. When i open the hood there was whater around 2 sparkplugs. No 2 and 3, from front. I problem some days before, the car just stop and refused to start. Now it has been standing some days. Well i dryed it from water and when i pushed the start button, it bubbles up like air/water around the sparkplugs. ???
  4. Thanks. And how about the discussion of detergent or not and mineral or not?
  5. Hi. The speedometer cable is fixed. Now i have some problems with the oilpressure. It is about 40 when i drive but when i stopp at a redlight,it goes down to like 20 or less. And after stopping and then try to start, it is difficult to start again, takes a wile, it doesent build up enough pressure. A friend say, it could depend on the motor oil. I have Castrol 50-50 in the engine.Is that not correct?
  6. Okey. what oil do i juse and how do i do it.
  7. First, thank you Comodore for all your help, really presiate that. Well a new noice have appeard. I was hoping to drive the car home today but....the noice is more like "sparkling" and at the same time, the speedometer nidle moves like a ping pong boll over the display. It comes and goes, at first in higner speed but after a wile, even in lover. What in the world is that?
  8. Hi. I have rechecked the voltage, now from +terminal on battery to bat/relay and there was 5.7volt. Correct? I took a nother ign.coil and trimed the rpm with a laser tester to aprox. 457rpm. Then i testdrived and,now it shift from 3 to 4 and back in good order. Still its to much voltage between batery and generator, and i am not shure about were the ground stripes should be. But now i can take the car home from were it is. Garage is in another village. Wow,i am happy.
  9. Now i am back from the garage and i have made the shanges in the wireing. Things did happen. The relay is now quiet.I tested the voltage on the relay whit engine running, and here it is; The TH terminal on relay have 6 volt. The BAT terminal have now 035 volt, it was 2,8 before. SOL terminal also have 0.35volt. PRI have 2,6volt and INT have 2.6volt. I take the car for same testrunning and it did shift up and down, not pefektly well. I did same fix with the idle rpm but its still a little bit "hard" in the shifting. I have filled in new oil, iso32 hydralic and perhaps the gearbox must be running a wile first so it shifts better. But as a hole, this is a big step forward...
  10. Oki. I will go to teh garage right now and try this out. This wiring is different from the one in my Shop manual so this should be interesting. Thank you for your advice.
  11. Your guess is correct. So if i switch the terminals, the wire from bat on relay will be conected to the +terminal on the coil. The wires on coil + terminal should then be ignition switch and relay-bat. On the -terminal of the coil it should be distrubutor and the wire from the pri terminal on relay? Or is it three wires on the +terminal on the coil?
  12. I have check it out and yhe ignition coil is hot in state A and B.
  13. Hallo again. The car is still not running. With all new wires from the relay, to trans, ignitionswich and carb its still noicy, I change all bad wires i find, to generator,starter solenoid. Still not getting the 6 volt i need to bat terminal on relay. What i did found was that the volt is to high between battery and terminal on generator. 5 instead of 0.35. And between the a and b terminals on the voltregulator its 5v, should be 0.12. So i have one electric circle with less volt and one with to much. Also the ignition coil is very hot. I am thinking of the generator not letting out proper amount of volt. Or the ignitioncoil, or the starter swich, button. How about ground straps? Were should they be? Annyone?
  14. I found some 10w non-detergent motor oil on Amazon from Kendall. Is that what you refering to?
  15. I will reecheck it tomorrow. Maby it is something wrong with the wire to the ignition switch.Q about the oil pressure gauge. When i take it out for cleening, do i have to empty the engine of oil first?