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Everything posted by RonB

  1. In my youth i worked on a few 30's mopars and anytime we measured the chassis it wasn't unusual to find side shorter than the other .But it wasn't from accident damage,it was often a manufacturing fault. 3/4 - 1" was normal .Years later i read in book, (might have been Tex Smiths Mopar hot rod book) that it was indeed quite common to find this. Unless it is actually bent and you can see the wrinkle it is best to alter the panels to fit.
  2. unless it's a pre1960 Alfa,lancia etc ...
  3. Looking at the buildings in the background and the Red lada parked there ,i am guessing this car was retrieved from somewhere in the former Soviet union?
  4. As little kid in New Zealand I remember seeing people reversng Prewar cars by leaning out the drivers door,hanging onto the wheel and moving backwards,I haven't seen anyone use that technique for decades .On early American cars it was the only to see behind you because of the small back window. Looking at that damage, someone has been looking out the back by peering out the drivers window ....and hit something on the passenger side.
  5. Hi! I cant get onto the 170-220 site for some reason so I have a question for you (2 actualy) 1/ do you have a RAL cose for the green on the prewar 170 Engines? 2/ were the underside of the roadsters painted in the same color as the topside or was it a primer finish ? We have finally gotten a start on our 170 project after much delays cuased by having to sort out other work left behind by a previous employee..
  6. I am sure this car now belongs to a customer of ours, who we are refurbishing a BMW 850 convertible for (yes a 850 convertible!) and a 1937 170 V roadster.
  7. In other parts of the world it is really difficult to restore a car when the government wont allow you to import parts. Check out this Plymouth Resto: Restoration of a 1934 Plymouth PE - Team-BHP
  8. Regarding your speedo. If you do lube the cable ,make sure you dont lube it with 2 feet of the speedo head. You do not want oil getting from the cable into the speedo head. It can make the movement sluggish. What you need to do is get the bearing in the speedo head cleaned and lubed .
  9. I dont know about the USa but here in OZ we can buy little plastic pumps for filling gearboxes and diffs . They screw into the top of plastic oil bottles and cost $5-$7 each. I use them for everything including filling Autotrans with ATF from bulk containers. They will pump Shell 680 oil too,which is the thickest gear oil for early type trannys (preWW1)
  10. here you go,It's pretty close to Byron as it happens http://www.dodgebrosclub-australasia.asn.au/docs/nsw%20tweeny%20tour%202013.pdf
  11. well now,I work on a lot of pre1980 mercedes and most have radiator cores that are 50 years old and still in very good condition. Most car parts are really designed to fit a price but in the case of the early Benz,price was never a concern,it was quality that mattered. Price only became an issue when the Daimler Chrysler debacle occured and we all know now what that caused. Solder is basically an alloy of lead and tin,the tin adds strength,the lead holds it together. 50/50 as was used by the plumbers in the old days ( Plumb=latin for lead) was tricky to wipe on to pipe joins but was soft mel
  12. I am seriously jealous!! ha ha. This weekend is the Dodge brothers 'Do" at lismore,keep an eye out for my work Collegue Wolf Grodd and car owner Jim Heywood in a 1930 Dodge 8 roadster(sold new in Muwillimbah) .We have been restoring the car for Jim since he got crook and this is it's big maiden voyage. They just drove past me on their way out so hopefully all will be OK. Anyway,back to the topic.. Wolf is a Mad mercedes Nut and knows a lot of the people at the Daimler Classic Center personally. if you do see them tell them Ron Said to say hi and explain what you are restoring...
  13. I was told this evening that the Daimler Museum has a car like yours in their collection. here is a link tro the Museum In Germany . You have a special car in terms of it's being in Australia . These archives often have the name of the original importers too. Good luck!! Mercedes-Benz Classic Home - Classic Center Germany - Contact I think silver solder will be too hard for the joints in a radiator. regular solder will handle the vibration and heat /cool cycles a lot better. i was working on A dodge this evening with a new Honey comb radiator which cost $5000 ....I'm in Brisbane,where are you?
  14. Gregnwt, Unless you want to take out a mortgage and buy a kiwi radiator,I would suggest you get intouch with the archives at Daimler AG museum and ask for a copy of the radiators blueprints. Chances are very likely that they still exist for your car . Using them,and you will probalby need to,be able to make new top and bottom plates and feed new pipes into them . That would be simpler and easier than trying to solder ancient plates to new tubes. I suspect the solder used might have been 70-30 too . You need a slow solder when dealing with so many tubes so close together. One of my Collegues
  15. All new Zealand Chevies were assembled in Wellington until 1966 from CKD kits using fisher bodies. They did have all the records when Dad enquired about how many 1932's were sold in NZ ...Six. The Australian cars were all Holden bodied because of taxation and import tarif laws to protect jobs here,so the OZ versions were very different to the USA Fisher bodies > i see you had a problem with your glove box door, So were Canadian bodies different again with the sheet metal being stamped in Canada?. I saw a very original 1934 master Sedean recently close to my place,still with it's Knee acti
  16. Hi,yes i have that issue. I was able to the then owner in the early 1980's (Nick) .He has since died. The car then passed to a Holden dealer in Sydney who refused to let us come and see the car. he said it weas under armed guard to prevent theft...so ,the trail went cold .I am sure it's in Sydney and can only hope she is good hands. I still have the original New Zealand tin Number plates for it. The Moonlight speedster was restored by a really nice guy here in Brisbane ,who told me of the plan by Nick to remove the body from the Coupe ,which never happened because of the big difference in a H
  17. I just spent a couple of days reading the thread.I love all prewar Chevies ,and though I now work in a resto shop and specialize in Mercedes Benz,I still want a coupe .I had a 38 coupe.38 sedan, 50 sedan.56 sedan and others over the years , my favorite was the 32 Confederate coupe bought for my Mum when it had only 7000 miles on it... It was sold to a well known dealer in New Zealand when it still had under 10,000 miles after he had spun a line to my Dad that he wanted it for himself and was going to keep forever..blah blah ,he had already presold it to a buyer here in Australia who was going
  18. i saw the books at the Glen Innes RTA office in 1987 > i am not sure if tere is even a office there now but you should try at the Sydney office Archives. Another guy I am sure who will have them is publisher Eddie Ford in Victoria. Richards bodies look almost the same as the US cars,and they managed to keep the styling looking good. I cant say the same about Holdens efforts in the same period. We have 1940 Buick in for resto at the moment with a Holden body and it's a shape only a mother could love....ha ha My very first resto was Morris 8 with a Richards body. Australian bodies were refe
  19. It's quite possible your car was US built version. I have been working on a 1930 Dodge 8 and that has a Richards Body ( roadster ). The chassis for the RHD 1930 cars were canadian built whereas the fully built cars were US products. Also,when I was Restioring a 1923 Palladium about 25 years ago i was talking with the local RTA manager .He showed me a pile of books dating back to the 1900's here a record of every car sold in Australia was listed,along with it's chassis number etc. These books were part of the tools the old time RTA offices could use to verify registration details of a car pres
  20. An American bodied car in Australia would have been really expensive in 1934. Any idea of it's early history? In New Zealand there were a few about and a guy I met once had a 34 Coupe.
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