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Everything posted by RonB

  1. In my youth i worked on a few 30's mopars and anytime we measured the chassis it wasn't unusual to find side shorter than the other .But it wasn't from accident damage,it was often a manufacturing fault. 3/4 - 1" was normal .Years later i read in book, (might have been Tex Smiths Mopar hot rod book) that it was indeed quite common to find this. Unless it is actually bent and you can see the wrinkle it is best to alter the panels to fit.
  2. Hi, I'll ask him if it is OK to pass on details.He has a lot of exotics stored away and understandably cautious about who knows what is where in his collection. But he was most keen on the Renault ,although it's in similar condition to the one in France and was talking about starting on it soon. As with most of us he realizes his mortality .so many cars,so little time.:D
  3. unless it's a pre1960 Alfa,lancia etc ...
  4. I know where there is one of these Renault in Queensland. I did have a pic of it,but recently my hard drive went west and i've lost it. If I run intro the owner,I'll get details from him regarding the model ,but I am sure it is the same size .
  5. Looking at the buildings in the background and the Red lada parked there ,i am guessing this car was retrieved from somewhere in the former Soviet union?
  6. Here is a hint for those who may have stumbled across a former race ,or something they are told was raced . If the car was raced under FIA rules ( and that actually covers land speed racing ) or any of the formula type racing ,the The nostalgia forum on the Autosport web is the place to ask.http://forums.autosport.com/forum/10-the-nostalgia-forum/ A lot of former race drivers,car builders historians etc etc spend their days there .Np matter how obscure,when it comes to racing there will be someone who has information.
  7. As little kid in New Zealand I remember seeing people reversng Prewar cars by leaning out the drivers door,hanging onto the wheel and moving backwards,I haven't seen anyone use that technique for decades .On early American cars it was the only to see behind you because of the small back window. Looking at that damage, someone has been looking out the back by peering out the drivers window ....and hit something on the passenger side.
  8. I am with David on this. I 'was' working at a well known (here in Brisbane Qld) resto shop on a 1913 Vulcan which has the same problem. The flywheel was also made in one peice with the teeth being machined into the rim of the flywheel . I tried to get the shop propietor to do as David suggested,. it's not complicated,in fact it is very basic machine work to simply remove the teeth which are too soft anyway and get a ring gear made from high carbon steel which can then be shrunk on as per normal. Unfortunatelty the shop propeitor was not mechanically savvy enough to under stand this... As result the car is impossible to start with the electric starter . There are lots of ring gear makers around the world who only need a few dimensions to put into their CNC work centers and presto!, you have a ring gear.
  9. Start by getting the ignition Perfect first . replace the plugs ,check the leads for continuity and make sure the condensor and coil are OK. Once the ignition is sorted you can eliminate electricals as source of problems. Next,it sounds as though the compressions are up.1.5 years isn't long for a newish engine to sit but given that it is a sidevalve,the valves can stick. So a quick run with the starter without plugs installed and a compression guage to check everything is as it should be. The oil ,being so black and the plugs being sooted up says the carb was way out of tune,the fuel pressure was too high with the electric pump or the choke was closed. No big deal,that can be sorted once you have fuel Now... are the fuel lines connected securely to the tank? i would disconnect the line at the first pump and get a air gun,with a peice of shop rag around it,blow into the tank and see if fuel can be forced out of the line. you dont need much pressure . So with spark,compression and fuel with a fully charged battery it should run.
  10. big difference to here...we have 37 C predicted today with 100% humidity. The idea of the multi cylinders was to get a smoother powerplant rather than ,as in later decades,to give more power.
  11. You could even run the fan system with a solar panel and an invertor or batteries to cut the running costs down to nothing. How much life does the manufacturer predict with the plastic balloon?
  12. I think I finally have it nailed down...it's a 1924 Chrysler steering unit. I see the same parts on some pictures of this particular year (the 1st) but as I have no access to a parts list I cannot be too sure . It has some interesting little touches such as the alloy sealing plate on the lower part of the column housing and the steering lock . Now...I want to find a pitman arm for it,condition not so important.
  13. I just found this in the photo gallery.It appears to be exactly the same (but in better condition ) but there is no description so i am still looking to find out what it is for:D http://photos.aaca.org/showimage.php?i=29348&c=607
  14. I dont think so,although the advance and throttle controls are the same,Stewart Warner branded:) .The Steering box itself is marked '19050' and the spline is 1.330 " at the large end. That would be a bit large for a car like a Whippet i would have thought.
  15. I lived in Auckland,New Zealand in the 1970's and speedway was still strong then. One of the runners,whose name I forgot years ago,ran a Nash Twin ignition 8 in his sprinter. A consistent back marker ,it never seemed to run very fast ,until one of my fellow Apprentices had a drive in it one night and came second in a feature race. It was all to do with the chicken factor I think. Nash also had a twin ignition 6 too didn't they?
  16. i bought this steering box and column etc for a project (at a place I no longer work at) and I cant seem to find what it comes from originally .The wheel was originally all wood which cold mean it may have been a 1925 Packard unit,but the center is different ,mainly that the wheels center was held on with four bolts with acorn nuts.Any assistance with identifying this is most welcome
  17. Well, brakes are done, (so many clevis pins!!) and the engine is almost ready to refire after the body work is almost finished. What i need to know is..what do the bolt heads for the front fender tie bar and headlight mounts look like? this one has had generric hex bolts on it but they look pretty hokey. Cheers! :-)
  18. Well... at least someone was thoughtful enough to place a can on the water outlet to prevent rust happening.
  19. Hi! I cant get onto the 170-220 site for some reason so I have a question for you (2 actualy) 1/ do you have a RAL cose for the green on the prewar 170 Engines? 2/ were the underside of the roadsters painted in the same color as the topside or was it a primer finish ? We have finally gotten a start on our 170 project after much delays cuased by having to sort out other work left behind by a previous employee..
  20. I am sure this car now belongs to a customer of ours, who we are refurbishing a BMW 850 convertible for (yes a 850 convertible!) and a 1937 170 V roadster.
  21. The ultimate in rat or mouse traps is a bucket full of mollasses . A mate had some around the shed for his wifes garden (makes perfect fertilizer too) .He noticed after a day or too that rats had drowned in the mollaasses after climbing up the bucket but were unable to get out . The substance sucks them in like the Labrea tar pits. You leave the bodies in the stuff,the mollasses almost preserves them. so there is no smell of rotting rodents to worry about . Then bury the stuff in the garden or in a hole where you want to plant a tree. Some of these rats were huge too, And i cant think of a worse smell than old car upholstery which has been a rat home.
  22. Great!, thanks for that!. This is a Holden bodied car so i will be hoping that they can duplicate the original springs if I give them the size of the existing wire in the springs. Again,many thanks!.
  23. re your journeys up the Alps, A few days ago I had the pleasure of being a co pilot in the maiden drive of a car built in 1913.. The driver ,while we were motoring along a busy road in Brisbane said" this thing drives great,I would drive it to Sydney ,no problem..." I would too,if I owned it. We even kept up with a lot of the traffic and it is , in fact quite capable of acelerating away from the lights at much the same speed as a lot of 2013 cars around us. The thought of it being 100 years old and just emerging from a 6 figure resto never entered my mind,it's all about the adventure,and besides we are only here for a very short time.
  24. Do those injectors work OK? .From what i understand,they werre a stop gap to keep mini's in production right up to the end and had a lot of criticism levelled at them.. As a kid in New Zealand we would soup our mini's up by dropping in 1100 cc engines fitted with DCOE webers etc . The carb location would mean that the speedo had to removed or shifted. Quite an experience to hear the engine note coming straight out of the dash.... :-)
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