29tons

Im near Reading Pa

Dose anyone sell high speed gears for a 39 Pontiac silver streak? Or has Anyone installed an overdrive trans in one.

thanks for the reply

Someone is coming to my house to pick up a 1947 Chrysler windsor with fluid drive.I know on older cars with automatic transmission the drive shaft should be removed for towing. Dose the the 1947 windsor with fluid drive need the drive shaft removed before towing? The people are using a tow dolly.

The same thing happened to me and ebay said I had to send the item with free shipping Im ready to start using facebook

It was a time consuming brain teaser for sure.

The oil pressure problem is fixed.I pulled down the pan checked the oil sump for cracks or clogged screen saw no problems checked sump gasket it was fine. Pulled down a couple bearings they still look like new.Also looked up at cam bearings and tried to rock or move cam but using a dial indicator had only a few thousands of movement. Put the pan back on. I ordered new oil pump gears and relief valve and gasket mainly because you could not by a relief valve separately. The gasket that came with the kit did not fit the housing properly so I got a victor gasket.Same problem oil pressure with a drill but no oil pressure with distributor in place. I checked the thickness of the gasket that came with oil pump kit it measured .008 Then I checked the thick of the gasket that was in the car when the motor was rebuilt. .028 Then I checked the victor gasket The area that was not crushed was .031 the crushed part measured .028. So I got gasket Paper at a Place where I worked that measured .008 Cut it to fit. I took a screwdriver and turned the oil pump with my hand to make sure it was not binding and it turned freely. I turned the pump with a drill the oil pressure came up to 45psi. I stuck the distributor in place and with only a few revolutions the engine had oil pressure. I started the engine ran it for 20 minutes the oil pressure started at 45 Psi and when it was warm it stayed at 30 psi which is what the book says it should be. I left the engine sit for 15 minutes and restarted it the oil pressure went right to 30 psi. The gasket that comes at least with 2 different companys that I tried is to thick leaving the oil bypass the gears.I noticed when I was holding the drill in place that i was pushing down and that was closeing up the gap at the bottom gears.and allowing the oil to pump.I have started the engine several times now and had oil pressure every time. I noticed several other posts with the same problem so I wanted to tell people what I found.

I have checked measurement on distributor and oil pump they are engaged by 3/8 of an inch. Also took the plate off the oil pump put my finger on the bottom center of the gear and turned the engine over the gear is turning . Also the drive gear mounted on the bottom of distributor shaft has a roll pin through it if this were slipping the distributor would be out of time quickly and motor would not run. the oil pump shaft fits inside the bottom of that gear. The oil pump drive gear cannot go down due to the plate on the bottom of the oil pump and the distributor cannot go up do to being held in place with the lock at distributor adjustment.I also can see clearly through the roll pin on the distributor drive gear.I put a substantial amount of pressure on distributor shaft and drive gear it dose not move.

no did not figure it out yet. The strange thing is if I run the oil pump with a drill the oil pressure will go up to 35 to 40 psi within 3 seconds of drill turning. but when i put the distributor in the car and start the engine it shows between 0 to 5 psi oil pressure. I am sure The distributor is locked in to the pump because it would not go in the last 1/2 inch and I had to pull the distributor out and turn the pump with a screw driver slightly to get the distributor to drop down.The engine was rebuild 25 years ago but never started so before i started it i pressurized the oil system also put oil down the cylinders and turned it by hand to make sure everything had oil on start up. I recently drained the oil and put new oil and filter in it just in case the oil was diluted with gas but it was not. I had valve covers off I thought maybe oil return holes where clogged but they where not and the engine looks like new inside Some one in an earlier post said that the cam bearings could be bad my thought is if i have oil pressure with a drill it should have pressure when its running. I may pull the pan off next maybe i can see if there is a problem with cam bearings. Please keep replies coming thanks for all the replies. I am stumped.

Took the pump apart gears look new relief valve moves freely and I do not see any reason for it to have lost pressure. Even the gasket looked ok.does the oil pump pick up oil through the filter?

I had the car running 20 minutes oil pressure warm was 30 psi I shut the engine off to hook up timing light I restarted the engine and noticed a lifter was making noise I checked oil pressure it was 0 I quickly shut off engine what happened . The car is a 1967 Cadillac with a 429 engine

I am restoring/assembling a 1967 Cadillac deville convertible thats been apart 30 years. It gets better someone else took it apart and I have 3 cars worth of parts.Some of the parts belong to the car I am working on and some are extra.There is a remote trunk release button assembly not sure if its from this car and cannot find a spot for it to mount I am guessing its under dash on drivers side. Does anyone have a picture or an idea where it mounts? Thanks for any help.

Thanks for all the replies

I recently sold a classic car on the internet. The person who bought it is from China.he says a company called CFR Rinkens will be contacting me for pickup and Payment.this is supposed to be a global shipping company.Has anyone ever delt with this company?

Dose anyone know what happened to the Pierce Arrow from the Boyertown cigar box factory? The car was owned by F.S. Koons. It was a seven passenger sedan, and my father speaks about it often. Thanks for any information or pictures!

Thanks for the reply

1956 354 hemi Someone told me when installing spark plugs that you are supposed to remove the gasket for the plug. Is this true?

I have a marvel heat riser and was wondering what cars used these.

I have a 27 dodge brothers the block in my car was only made 2 months I could not find another block my block was cracked after tyring to find someone to weld it i when though 3 or 4 guys finally a guy said he would . It was welded this is 10 years later and still runs great.

1925 or before that 12 volt engines 4 cylinder I have seen these I believe its a stock dodge brothers part also try dodgebrothersclub.org

The motor seems to start very easy even at 10 degrees out .It dose not shimmy or shake at idle I moved the car a short distance and was waking around the back of the car and the 1 tail pipe did not sound quite right I held my hand over the pipe I could feel air pushing out but also felt some air sucking in could someone have the valves to tight? Does The dual exhaust have a crossover pipe? its in storage and I cannot check it out like I would like to.

On the 56 chrysler hemi suppose to have been rebuilt in the 90s there is some pressure coming out of the oil fill top front of the motor at idle not alot but the owner says when you throttle up it goes out the vent tube near bottom he says they are all that way because the motors were never vented properly is this true ? Also what hemi should be in there 331 354 ?

I bought a 47 chevy coe with a rebuilt 1954 chevy 235 serial number 0442022T54y. The man that owned spent a lot on the engine after it was rebuilt and run for a short time it had a miss. He said that a push rod bent . He said he just gave up and sold the truck. I think I found out why the push rods were bent because valves were not adjusted properly. I straightened the pushrods and got it running. I also checked the compression. 125-130 every cylinder. now I want to get new pushrods and lifters but I need to know if the ones in the motor are correct pushrod is about 11 1/4 lifter 2 5/16. The bottom of the pushrod seems to be mushroomed is that the way it should look? Next problem is that when the motor was running I noticed the distributor was not advancing. The vacume advance is good but I found an oring under it I dont think it belongs there and its stopping the distributor from advancing. I figure it was put there to stop oil from leaking out. dose any seal belong there. I will try to add pictures of these items. Thanks for any help.

thanks for the info 3.21 axle with the tall tires may not work to well. its a 1947 chevy cab over with a 1956 chevy six 235 someone started this project and spent a lot on the engine even ran it on the floor for an hour hooked to a radiator put it in the truck drove it for a couple hours and valve stuck and hit the piston. so the engine has to come apart. The rear axle is a 2 speed with low gear at 8.10 and high at 6.13 so since the truck is never going to haul heavy loads I would like to find a 3.73 Posi . I Found a place that makes wheel addaptors very reasonable. They said they can put almost any rim on any axle.oh Im 53 and I know what you mean by no energy when I was 18 I could not wait to get home and work on an old car now I can barely get to the garage a couple hours on the weekend

I have a 67 caddy rear I see no tags on the outside the only thing i see is a casting number on the pumpkin which is 1482958pd464. its a posi and has the perfect measurements for a truck that I am building.Do those numbers mean anything as far as ratio or do I have to pull the pumpkin out? If so how do I tell what the ratio is