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About Caddy59

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  • Birthday 12/25/1958

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  1. Hello, me again….. I´ve drained 2 quarts of oil before and started the engine today afternoon. First, there was no change, once engaging the first gear the car didn´t move as before. Then we idled the engine for about 5 minutes as well with about 3000 rpm and suddenly she started to move very slowly with gear engaged. I didn´t trust to leave the garage because the exit is sloping and if she wouldn´t move again I wouldn´t get her back into the garage. So we tried to drive back and forth just some meters inside the garage and she did. But I have a feeling that it just works with a lot of rpm. What I have to state as well: Already when we bought the car back in 2012, there´s was a strange noise once engaging the reverse gear. It´s a very mechanic rattle, it starts first once the reverse gear is engaged ( not whilst engaging) and is worse if there´s a lot of load on the drive, for instance when starting to climb a hill backwards. This rattle is really a terrible noise and it makes me fear for the transmission.....but as yet no further issues. Maybe this reverse gear failure has to be regarded together with the current failure in not moving in gear the time before it started to move right now after the idling procedure. For an tranny specialist it will give valuable hints about the cause of failure. In all forward gears, everything was perfect 6 years ago till now, no noises, no issues at all, silky shiftings. Probably there´s something wrong with the oil pressure too low inside the tranny and the converter won´t be filled completly to engage the drive…..just a guess.
  2. ..the car is 59, so 60 years old. I don´t know the exact mileage, estimated 160k.....I also don´t know what service the tranny experienced, the oil pan bumbling sealed with lots of compound outside. The border sheet of the pan was warped by tightening hard the bolts in order to get it sealed. I removed the pan and realigned the borders, made 4 steel inlay sheets along the borders under the bolt heads to get pressure distributed properly. But I guess the tranny has got regulary oil changes, after removing the pan the mesh filter was in perfect condition, the oil didn´t smell and was relativly clean, no burn at all.
  3. Hello, no, the converter stayed in the car, not disengaged. The only thing i did on the tranny was to remove the oil pan, put in a new gasket and cleaned the mesh filter, put it back. I use to work extremly accurate and properly to avoid any dirt, I´m engine engineer, but unfortunatly no tranny expert.....I even used some silicone compound for the gasket and let it cure for some days and only then I filled the oil to avoid oil contact to the fresh compound. I also payed attention to avoid pressing compound inside the oil pan what could cause clogging of the mesh filter. Apart from that, I didn´t no work at the tranny itself and it worked perfectly since 6 years of owning the car. And again, the car moved out of the garage 2 weeks before, however after I filled up 2 more quarts ( stupidly I didn´t check the level afterwards) it didn´t move anymore yesterday. Then I checked the Level again and found it overfilled with maybe half an inch over max. Today afternoon I will drain 2 Quarts and check again if it moves, and correct then the level exactly to manual specs. Unfortunately, in the Manual there´s not an exactly hint what´s going wrong if the car fails to drive. And I can`t suggest that there´s something bad since it worked 2 weeks before and I didn´t do anything what causes the failure unless the oil level.
  4. I´ve rebuilt my Caddy 59 engine and when i went to start it again some weeks ago, i also did an oil change at the hydramatic after more than a year not operating. The engine worked well in neutral when I broke in the camshaft whilst revving up and down with ZDDP added to the oil. Then I wanted to get out of the garage and the car didn´t move at all in gear driving position. I checked the oil level and found about one quart too low under min. I filled up some oil and the car moved immediately afterwards, got out of the garage and after a quarter hour in again. Today, three weeks later, I wanted to adjust the carburettor and spark advance, ran the engine in P Position and wanted to go out of the garage, now the car didn´t move any more, as well in reverse position or in D2. I checked the tranny oil level again and found now about one quart over the max level. Supposedly I have overfilled it the time before….but I can´t believe that thats the reason that the car doesn´t move any more. I didn´t do anything at the tranny at all ! Today, I had to quit work and couldn´t drain a quart of oil to check if thats the reason. Did somebody of you experience that kind of issue, no car movement at all? Maybe there´s a valve sticking inside the tranny ? Could it be that there´s a lot of air inside the torque converter? Thanks for help !
  5. I´m just in process to operate my 59 again after 1 1/2 year of engine rebuild.....stupidly I have a wire what I couldn´t relate to whatever unit any more. It´s one double wire black with a white plastic plug and together coated with one single violet cable from what the plug is cut off, both very Close to the ignition coil, but it´s not from there. The engine is running and the wires has nothing to do with it. I would more suggest that it´s something from the heater / AC or something. I have no idea where the cables have to go, there´s nothing surrounding it where it could be plugged in.... Probably someone could have a look into his 59 Caddy, should be a small practice...thanks !
  6. Hello everybody, when I lifted my 59 Caddy up to check for the German TÜV, I found that the propshaft has contacted the rear edge of the frame once the rear axle is relieved. First I supposed that the rear dampers are wrong brands and too long when relieved. I ordered new ones from USA (I`m German) and found them very similar in lenght, maybe some mm shorter, whats not enough, the propshaft still hits the frame again. Now I made my own solution by removing the washers underneath the grommets , machined new stepped washers on the lathe to center them and cut the grommets themselfes something shorter on both ends….winning maybe one inch in installed lenght, should work now, but a big mess ( didn´t install it as yet) In normal operation, there wouldn´t be any issue, but if operating the car on the service lift with gear engaged ( to look for noises or sth) the propshaft contacts the frame what´s not ok. Even when the powertrain is not operating, the terrific heavy rear axle is hanging on it and tries to bend the propshaft by applying big bending loads in this contact point towards the frame. Did anybody did experience the same and are other shorter dampers available to overcome this problem? Or what did you do?
  7. hGuys, on my 59 Caddy I could keep the waterpump due to its good condition after rebuilding. But what seems strange to me is that on the outleck neck (to the heater hose) on the left side (travel direction) there was mounted (from the pre-owner?) two into each other screwed threaded bushes which decreases the internal hose connection diameter by about 3 mm compared to the right side. On the right side, I use a hose with about 0,78 Inches (20 mm). This diameter is the same as on the other side at the heater connection. If I want to use the same hose at the left side, the outer Diameter of the water pump neck is just about 17 mm ( 0,67 Inches) whats creates a problem with the hose ( the other side should be the same as the right side to connect to the heater) and I´m not sure if this throttles the water flow of the pump and if it´s stock condition or if somebody has tampered on it. Does anybody of you know whats the correct condition at the water pump heater hose conncetions? I could rather make an adaptor to match the various hose diameters, but that wouldn´t be the right solution….And if actually the left neck is smaller than the right one, is then the hose tapered along all the lenght ? I wouldn´t contract the hose by violence...Thanks for your advices !
  8. Matt, very kind of you sending the pics, very helpful ! Lot Thanks to you !
  9. I just saw on some pics that the spring is supposedly hooked in on the upper part of the lever, so it would pull the throttle as it seems right then. But the pics are muzzy, would like anyway to see correct fitting conditons….
  10. Guys, I´m just in progress to make my rebuilt 59 engine operating, and just doing the last things to get it finished. Stupidly, I didn´t make pics from the throttle spring and I don´t know exactly where it has to be hooked in within the throttle linkage at the carburator ( single carb , Carter 4 Barrel). Does it act as a safety cotter pin and is hooked into the small bore behind the operating linkage elbow? Or comes there an real cotter pin in and the hook of the spring is just hooked around the cylindrical part between cotter pin and carburator lever? Doesn´t make this big diff, but I want to have it original. The other question is why the spring operates in the direction to open the throttle and not to close it whilst pulling to the oil filter bracket. A photo of the original condition would be excellent ! I take it as a Christmas gift , thanks a lot ! Greets to all from Germany, Merry Christmas and a happy new year ! Udo
  11. Guys, now the problem is fixed finally and I would like you to know it. It was one injector of cyl. 4, it has had a shortcut inside. I found it out with starting the engine with fuel pressure and looking to the spray pattern. Then I found that the complete left bank doesn´t spray, the right bank did. Then i started to measure the resistance of the injectors and I found the fourth with nearly no resistance, just 1 ohm. The others were figured out with about 12,8 ohm. This shows an shortcut within the fourth inj. Looking to the wiring chart, I found that all injectors of one bank are fused with one fuse together. Due to the short and it´s low resistance, i could calculate that theres a voltage of about 12 amps. what makes the fuse of this bank knock out, so no injector of this bank is spraying at all.. Today, after changing alle injectors to new ones ( thanks to rockauto) and a new fuse the car was running as never would has been broken down. Thanks to all who gave their advices to me !
  12. Guys, Unfortunately the car is f***ing kidding doesn´t run as I hoped yesterday. The engine was completed and with the new charged battery it didn´t start again. With spraying brake cleaner into the throttle whilst starting, it starts immediately as long as I sprayed, afterwards it breaks down again. I removed again the manifold and put out the injectors, tried again to start and sometimes a bit of injection, but very diffusely…..I have put ground to one side of the injector plugs and they sprayed all the time. Next test will be to measure the pulsing of the injector wire from the ECU as Joe recommended. If there is none, I would suppose that the ECU is the reason…..
  13. Guys, thanks for your comments, today I have to report success: After fitting the new distributor ( what includes as well a small control unit) the injectors were firing !!!! Unfortunately, in the meantime battery voltage was very low and the injectors of the right bank (1,2 and 3) were working , on the left bank only 6, 2 + 4 not yet. To your info: I can´t start the engine in this condition, because to get access to the injectors, I have to remove the upper part of the inlet manifold and have to remove the throttle, some vacuum lines, EGR tube a.s.o. and the engine can´t run this way. I just can check if the inj. are firing. I guess it was a result of the low voltage what was hardly enough to crank the engine. As far as i know, with less voltage than 9 volts the ECU doesn´t work and maybe that the voltage was as low when starting. Now I have the battery on the charger and tomorrow will try again, the engine is completed and finish to start. To my opinion, it was the crank signal from the distributor out of the small control unit what wasn´t present and that was the reason why the inj. didn´t fire. I can´t believe that there´s another issue what came up with the 2 injectors 2+4, I hope the engine runs tomorrow ok. I will tell you tomorrow whats going on. @Jack: No Problem, but you see that I didn´t hit my head ?‍♀️ @ Digger: Funny, I didn´t know the word "spritzing". First I thought you will kidding me because in German injecting is "Spritzen" . Was really funny when I found out that it´s a correct English term, i never heard it ??? The engine needs a 1st cylinder position, but then all injectors of bank 1 are firing together and all of bank 2. You see it as well on the wiring chart. On the cyl. what needs the fuel one cycle later, the fuel will be "stored". Thats no problem. Sequential injection wasn´t usual at this time.
  14. @Jack M: All my approach to find out why my cars doesn´t run is logical. I am myself mechanic since 40 years and I´ve worked in motor racing for a long time. I have found out that the reason is not the sparking, there´s no fault code, fuel pressure is tested and ok, just the injectors doesn´t work, there´s no crank rpm sensor, this function is covered by the distributor. Due to the fact that I´m German and the cars are not very popular over here, it´s very helpful if someone how Joe Padavano can advice some checking procedures due to his experience. I´ve checked out the wiring chart, but unfortunately some items are black boxes and it´s not possible to figure out the complete function of all components. So it´s a bit of instinct to find the problem.....but definitly it´s not the way to take the car to a whatever garage where the guys are not specific specialists of this car. Without better wiring charts, no one can find out the problem better or quicker. I´ve now spent appr. 4 hours of searching in summary, however the car is broken down 8 weeks before. I have 4 other cars to work on, one 59 cadillac engine to rebuild Anyway, thanks to everyone who takes the time to advice sth.
  15. Thanks.....I promise to give you the right info as soon as I´ve provided it. The cars key looks as there would be a resistor pellet inside the key, yes. Tonight, I will fit the new distributor and if it still doesn´t run, I`ll check the pulses of the injectors. In case there are none, what part seems to be failed then? Is it the ECU, or the key itself?