neatname

Hey all, Life circumstances have lead to me having to put my Riviera up for sale. Here the link to the CL ad. https://spokane.craigslist.org/cto/d/spokane-buick-riviera/6810327959.html Here is a link to additonal photos and a couple videos. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1GbpqxD9qlpwXukCSA2cKJFJG8-c88FcR Thanks, If you have any questions, email, text or call! Thanks for looking! Zach 509-990-4839

Happy Friday y'all

Decent evening to shoot some photos. F

Hey all, Does anyone have a preferred supplier of radiator for 1964 Riviera?

This facility used to house our local city maintenance department, it's currently empty.

Hope everyone is having a great weekend, here is my 1st 64 and my current. Such great cars!

https://spokane.craigslist.org/cto/d/1964-buick-riviera/6580938989.html This is a solid project if anyone is looking. It's located about 10 mins from me, I can get better photos if anyone is interested.

Have a good weekend all. Finally had the first shakedown run..minor tweaks needed, just glad to be part of the Riviera family.

Thanks for the feedback fellas, I ended up finding one from David Jackson off of FB Buick Riviera Owners and Enthusiasts - Official ROA Facebook Group. Can't wait to get everything buttoned up.

Hey all, I am trying to track down a source for 1964 Riviera brake reaction rods. The ones on my car are bent and the threads are shot. Any info is greatly appreciated. Does anyone know if these would work? http://www.globalwest.net/impala-caprice-adjustable-strut-rod-1965-1966-1967-1968-1969-1970-global-west.html# Zach

Fresh lowering and front end rebuild. Brakes are up next. I am sorry to folks who like em stock..

We had a short break from the snow, I took the car out for a little shakedown run. Ran into a buddy while out, can't wait for summer!

I had two complete splits, one at the actuator side and one at the switch. Once I isolated both splits the switch worked correctly, this is what lead me to do the replacement.

Are you speaking center of the mounting bracket on column actuator side to center of the bolt on the switch (bottom) of the column? If you're looking for the distance between the 2 loops on the wire it's 18.5", the switch has to be "tuned' of sorts per the manual.

Hey all, I uncovered that my turn signal actuating cable housing was broken in two places not allowing for proper operation. I could manually move the switch and it would operate correctly. I pulled off the switch off the column and took it apart and cleaned all the years of grime off of it as well as cleaned the contacts inside. I came up with a fix that cost around $10. Went to my local hardware store and bought some 1mm (.039) wire. ($1.75) Went to a bike shop and bought some cable housing. (3' - $8.5) I built a very basic jig using a couple screws and a 3/16th drill bit. The screws were used to hold the excess wire while I wrapped the 3/16th drill bit a couple times to create the loop. You can see the factory one with the column bracket still on it. The image below both the factory and the new housing/cable are taped together and then I screwed them slightly to ensure that the other end column side was the exact same length. For reference.. Once I had both ends looped I carefully separated the factory crimps and place them on the new and reinstalled. I just got back from a shake down run and signals were operating as they were designed. Let me know if you have any questions..I'll do my best to assist via the internet if someone runs into this issue again..