bypass

Firstly I would like to thank you for all your responses. The issue here is that I think all the pumps you mentioned are always working, even if the carburetor is full of gasoline. In the pumps I have like "airtex" they are always working and applying pressure. I think that this way the pump is straining... and the carburetor ends up expelling the gasoline and flooding the engine...that's what happens to me. According to what I read, low pressure SU pumps (points type) stop working when they reach pressure. I don't think anyone here has experience with this type of bombs in these cars. I don't have the vacuum system... and I think this carburetor is no longer original to this engine. I will always have to try for the best low pressure pump that can withstand long trips. Thanks a lot

Hello everybody. I hope you are well! I need your advice....! My 1929 Chrysler series 65 has an electrified pump (6 volts) but these types of pumps are always breaking down... I think they never stop working even with the carburetor is full of fuel.... on the other hand I think they put out too much pressure and the carburetor sometimes spills fuel out....! I assume it's an Airtex....but I've already added others with exactly the same format (some without a brand)..bought on ebay. They always end up stopping working after 2...or...3 hours of travel... I'm thinking about buying a SU FUEL PUMP 6 Volt Dual Polarity P/N AUA26. What do you think? Are these types of pumps reliable? and will it be appropriate for my case? Any care needed with this pump? I leave a photo of my engine, where you can see the type of gas pump that I have (it is currently mounted next to the fuel tank), and type of carburetor (stromberg). Thank you very much

The engine does not make knocking sounds! I will come back to try doing a real compression test....to get conclusions... then I will report the results...

..the pressure oil stays at 15....

I didn t check the compression with specific tool....I only take of the plugs, put the engine runing and compare the air pressure between cylinders...I didn t see diferences... I realized that when the engine is cold, at the first start I push the cold button, and if take off the wire of the plug of 5th or 8th, I feel the diference the engine looses power....but when the engine warm, nothing happens at 5th or 8th cylinder.......the pressure stays at 15 when the engine is cold...and almost zero when hot....this can change the valves function? (Intake, exaust).

Hi everyone! I have a 1946 Ford super deluxe with engine 59ab. I´m having a problem with this engine...I think that it only works with 6 cylinders... I put new parts: -carburetor 94 two barrels -plugs -wires -complete distributor that I bought on the internet (ebay)..the seller indicates that it was only necessary to install. All adjustment´s already done -condenser -rotor cap (with crab style). I checked out that the firing order is the same like 1946-1948 engines The question is that the engine doesn´t work right...the 5th and 8th cylinder seems died..! They are one the driver´s side flathead, at the ends..! I confirm that they have electricity on the plugs...I pulled out the plugs and I saw them work. The cylinders have compression .... The valve ares working and without plugs I saw the cylinders and valves clean! When the engine is working I disconect the wire of 5th or 8th (or both at same time) and the engine works without any difference. In the all others cylinders, if I disconnect one wire, the engine looses power, easily understand that they are working ok! The 5th and 8th...not... I don´t know what could be the reason for that...I checked again order or wiring with distributor and they are right!. Could be the carburetor? not enough fuel to the extreme of the flathead? This make sense? I already adjust the two screw air mixture...but without differences... Someone have one idea what could be the reason for that?? Thanks a lot

The question is...wich one do you choose in my case.. 6.00-16 or 6.50-16 (largest white wall)

"but I don´t know if I could have other disadvantages...."

Hi everyone, What is your opinion about whitewall tyres for a 1946 Ford v8 Sedan (4 doors). I'm undecided between Firestone 6.00 - 16 And Firestone 6.50 - 16 I think that the two measures are applicable in this car. I realy like to see the white wall...and the Firestone 6.50-16 is bigger...but I don´t if I could have other disadvantages.... Thanks a lot!

"Book says between 30 and 40 when driving 30MPH with hot engine" mine reachs 10 when is hot.....BIG Problem....

I've read this question is common to other cars of this date! The question is why the pressure only falls when the engine is warm. In cold is fine. The oil is monograde and is new! That´s because the engine in hot state expands? When I changed the oil 20w-50 to 20w40 and now to 30w I noticed that the pan start have some mud inside (was completly clean at beginning)...I supose that´s because the oil pressure drops....!This engine don´t have filter oil...but this one thing that I want set up, very soon. I already have the canister/filter oil..

Hi everyone.. I have a 1929 chrysler series 65 (engine silver dome head). When the engine is cold the oil pressure reaches 30. Then gets warmer and reaches 20 and then keeps 10. into idle reaches 5.... I was using a 20w-50...then I changed to 20w-40, and now I´m using a 30W (moderate detergent monograde) and the problem remains....the oil pressure drops when the engine warm.... I´m killing the engine if I don´t do anything....!Someone knows where I can raise the pressure oil? or the the problem is in the oil that I use?. I hear many times that this engines must use non detergent oil...here is the problem? Thanks everyone!

Hi everyone.. and sorry for resurrecting this topic! I have a 1929 chrysler series 65 (engine silver dome head). When the engine is cold the oil pressure reaches 30. Then gets warmer and reaches 20 and then keeps 10. into idle reaches 5.... I was using a 20w-50...then I changed to 20w-40, and now I´m using a 30W (moderate detergent monograde) and the problem remains....the oil pressure drops when the engine warm.... I´m killing the engine if I don´t do anything....!Someone knows where I can raise the pressure oil? or the the problem is in the oil that I use?. I hear many times that this engines must use non detergent oil...here is the problem? Thanks everyone!

Hi, Anyone can tell me which product use to clean tyres with white wall....probably it´s an old question...! My white wall tyres have +- 1000 miles and are losing white.....and starting "cracked". I only use water and dishwashing detergent...! That´s the detergent that causes this? Or the brand of tyres "Universal" that are low quality? Your experiences will very usefull to stop the degradation of tyres.... Thanks a lot!

Thanks Hudsy Wudsy for the suggestion!Yes, cornish cream is beautiful..but the one that I want is perfect for the car! I´m trying in australian foruns...let´s see what I can find...

Thanks Dave Henderson, really! But de one that I want is lighter...and probably the basis is different. Compare: Tucson Tan code 14227 and the one that I´m searching for..

Hi everyone, Thanks for your all answers!! I think that tacoma cream is more yellow and dark....and the car in two pics that I sent is lighter..and more white... I agree with Paul Dobbin! In a sedan 4 door, it will be too yellow, thats why I´m trying to find the basis of the color that I want...is lighter..it will be a great help. The aim is to maintain all set of stainless trim (1946), wheels painted in the same color, with ring and hubcap, and white wall tyres. I don´t want put any kind of pinstripe. So the only exteriors differences between mine and the pics will be the model , and the pinstripe. Even if this color isn´t 100% original, that won't be a problem. The problem will be for me and paint shop find the color...I can´t miss... Bleach the one that you post is to dark and brown...is very diferent from my pics So at this moment I only have some clues: tacoma cream sahara tan dakota cream (?) I´ll explore in Australia... Thanks a lot.

Hello, everyone. I have a 1946 Ford sedan (4 door) and I'd like to change the color. Can someone help me find the name, the code, of this color (see the pics)? Probably the owner of the car uses this forum, or other forums just only about this cars. It would be great to talk to him directly, if someone gives me the contact (email). Thanks a lot I also put this topic en "General Discussion"

Hello, everyone. I have a 1946 Ford sedan (4 door) and I'd like to change the color. Can someone help me find the name, the code, this color (see the pics)? Probably the owner of the car uses this forum, or other forums just only about this cars. It would be great to talk to him directly, if someone gives me the contact (email). Thanks a lot

The gas tank unit only have one electric wire....This is in my car...

Hi everyone! I need some help...may be someone have the same problem before.. The fuel gauge of my dodge coupe 1948 (d24) doesn´t work... the needle points to E (empty). At the beginning the needle was not stabilized..but was possible to have an notion of amount of fuel. When I filled completely gas tank, the needle points F (full) and was stabilized. As the fuel was consumed it was starting to go down and getting destabilized...but I could have an idea of fuel that I had. Now the fuel gauge is complete dead!!The needle doesn´t move...What do you think could be the reason? The fuel gauge? Or the fuel Gauge Tank Unit? Thanks a lot!!! B.F.

Hi, At this time the oil pan is already clean. It was horrible... Can someone tell me the tightening of: -main mearing cap nuts -connecting rod nuts for the same car, Chrysler series 65 engine with silver dome head (65hp). I can´t find on the internet and doesn´t appear in the instruction manual Thank you for your help!

Hi, My head gasket (attach). I suppose it's the copper-asbestos. I will re torque twice, in two different days, when it´s cold, with the maximum of 55 lb-ft, like Grimy said (thanks). Thanks everyone....now I'm going to remove and clean the oil pan. Let me see what I find inside....

Hi First I have to thank everyone for the help. About the tightening, In Richasco´s information, says 60-65 lbs, but I think that this head (silver dome) have to be re-tighten, when the engine is "hot", and here I don´t know what tightening must give... About the oil, I'm going to remove and clean the oil pan. I had already bought the Millerol M30 (non detergent), because I read that engines without oil filter only must use non detergent: http://www.millersoils.co.uk/automotive/tds-automotive.asp?prodsegmentID=164&sector=Classics but now I'm very confused....because there are opinions that, non-detergent, reduce the life of the engine...I Thanks

Hi For the Chrysler series 65 (1928) engine with silver dome head (65hp), wich oil do you recomend for this engine?Wich viscosity do you recomend?Any brand?About the silver dome head for the same car, do you know the right tightening nuts? And the order? I don´t have this information and I don´t want damage the engine head and the gasket...Thanks a lot!