cahartley

Yes you are missing something. The current setup you have is nowhere near correct and now I know why you are getting black smoke. The thumb screw is not for adjusting the idle speed. It is for adjusting the idle fuel mixture but not in the normal way because that is not a "normal" carburetor. The metering pin and rack are not properly "timed". Now that I SEE what's what take a look at this thread >>> https://forums.aaca.org/topic/319822-1924-dodge-choke-set-up/ When I got my '24 DB I had the same trouble but the smoke wasn't white.......it was running way rich.

Even more cool is I live in Rosholt! Small world!

Jaybokay........at the age of 19 you are so far ahead of me it's ridiculous as I couldn't indulge my love of cars until I was 58 (68 now)......and you are starting out with a far better car. I hope attaining Eagle Scout status always remains a thing of great pride and respect. If only there were 100,000 more just like you....... 👍

Don't leave us hanging........did it work?.........

I got my first real job working evenings at a local pallet plant in my small village of 500'ish in 1968. Some of us from the high school worked an evening shift for which we were paid $1.60 an hour whereas the day crew got $1.55.....oh my the whining. Back then I could put $2 worth of gas in my $200 '59 Chevy and drive at least a week. Cigarettes were 20¢ a pack I think. As long as we could drive and smoke we were happy.......we did and we were.......

That is a single lip seal. Get the best double lip seal you can buy. National was bought out by Timken some years ago but, as far as I know, the numbers still work. National always made excellent double lip seals. Of all the sizes of seals I stocked at the shop, for every size for which double lip seals were avaiable, that's what I stocked.

Did you have to pay for those colossal screwups?

So.......ideas? Sorry about the crummy image but that's all I have.

Not if this sale is anything like the 2013 Nebraska Lambrecht Chevy sale. "59 and '60 Chevys with weeds growing through the floors were bringing $4-6 grand.......

A very expediant method to chase off new or newer members is to give them what's for because some rule was overlooked. It's just as easy to nicely make them aware and welcome them plus it makes TWO people feel better........or should.

Shared at smokstak.com.......

Being a 501C3 organization doesn't prohibit fund raising activites. In fact fund raising is what makes a 501C3 desirable. As far as I am aware, having founded a 501C3 club, the only prohibition is from anyone in the organization from benefitting from club raised funds.

It depends on how they get run WHEN they get run. It takes a while for the entire engine, pan and all, to get sufficiently warm to evaporate condensation. Storage conditions will contribute to condensation too as the heavier components don't adjust as rapidly to ambient temperatures as rapidly either so may accumulate a small amount of water. If the amount of water you have been noticing has been, more or less, consistant I wouldn't lose any sleep over it.

I think the color of the Chrysler is killing it and not in a good way. I think the color of the Marmon is killing it in a good way. If the Chrysler had the same paint scheme as the Marmon I think it would be a game changer. I have a 1927 Model T Tudor with a, roughly-ish, similar green which looks fine on THAT car.

When I bought my first car, a '59 Chevy Biscayne 2 door in 1968, it was only 9 years old and had a 235 6 banger and column shift, for which I paid $200. I don't remember how many miles it had on it but it left a smoke trail all the way home. Even after only 9 years the back seat floor pans were already rusted through and the engine needed a ring job which I did myself.......and that's all I did to it. It ran perfectly until I sold it or, rather, gave it away really. I forgot to mention back then it wasn't uncommon to have -30º nights. That thing never failed to start....... ❤️

If you can find an archived sale result at Mecum you could contact the company who MIGHT contact the owner on your behalf and give the owner your information. They would not be at liberty to divulge any buyer information to you. Here is the result of that car so I think you're in luck. (You may have to create an account to view but all it requires is an email address) https://www.mecum.com/lots/AZ0319-366197/1910-kenmore-tourabout/

^ I've done that more than once over the years.......no problem. In tight situations such as yours I also have unraveled thicker packing and wound in individual strings but we worked on a lot of irrigation pumps so had more to chose from.

It appears that magnetio does not have in impulse coupling which means the engine must turn over much faster to develop as hot a spark as if there was an impulse. I would narrow the plug gaps to .020" and see what happens.

I saw this fabulous slide at a site I discovered on facebook and figured this one needed to be here. The full title of the slide is Street Scene, Saskatoon Credit Union Federation 9th Annual Convention held at Watrous, Saskatchewan, Canada on June 23, 1947. Cars aren't the main subject matter but there are HUNDREDS of well done late 40's/50's slides there >>> https://everettbakerslides.smugmug.com/Photography I went through only the first of 4 albums.

If you have Windows 10 you have Paint 3D. I've never needed or used it but your question intriques me so I gave it a whirl. It will do exactly what you want it to do and you can resize the image within 3D as well. Photoshop Elements will not do what you want. Perhaps the full version of Photoshop will but that'll take a sizeable chunk out of your budget as well as add a fairly significant learning curve.

Not on the felts and, to be honest, I wouldn't shellac the gasket either but if you do shellac ONLY the oil pan side and grease the block side to aid in removing the pan again should it be necessary. Always "cement" gaskets to the piece which is the most accessible.

Goop the ends anyway.......trust me. For the record those felts were glued to the bearing cap at the factory. I glued the dry felts to the cap using SuperGlue. AFTER that anything goes.......

Whatever route you choose GOOP THE CORNERS. Seriously. And while you're at it goop over the main rear bearing felts too.

Matthew, I'm not sure if those battery maintainers put out enough juice but give it a shot. If that happens to not work use the car battery. The solenoid will use only the amount of current for which it is wound. You will figure out where both ends of the solenoid (electromagnet) are. Simply energize the coil (ignore polarity) and watch that the points close when energized. That you mention the spring on the solenoid looks like new bugs me and makes me think it's probably too strong. Over 93 years there may be a little wear here and there that may have to be compensated for. My preference is to have the points close with less juice rather than more.

Thank you Keiser. I image searched.......and searched.......and searched but couldn't find a ringer. Close but no cigar. Every Jeep emblem has JEEP across the face but I found one image that is very close minus the JEEP.