cahartley

Those more familiar with how things work at Carlisle might find this interesting. Carlisle Show Goes On

This will take you directly to the thread mentioned by the op >>>

My High School car was a 1959 Chevrolet 2 door Biscayne with the 235 six and 3 on the tree. I paid $200 for it in 1968, basic insurance was $300 a year and I loved that car. Even being only 9 years old the rear floor already had rusted through some.......nothing a couple pieces of sheet metal couldn't take care of. It left a trail of blue smoke all 17 miles of the drive home so a set of rings was in order which I installed and took care of that problem. Did I mention I loved that car? I loved that car so much I needed another one, wanted it equipped the same way and located a 4 door Bel Air. By this time (Labor Day of 2013) this car had suffered much more floor and trunk pan detoriation but it was mine. It's purely a driver and I would rather drive it than any other vehicle I ever owned with the exception of my first one.

Sorry GKM........I went through all the OLD seal books and interchanges at the shop today. The number on your seal is, without a doubt, a proprietary number. You will have to get your seal OD measured with a micrometer. I expect you know the shaft size or can determine what it is. If you are lucky it will have an OD that can be matched by a currently available seal. You could get lucky and find there is something with a metric OD that might also work. Once provided with that information I'll check again using a progressive size listing and see if I can come up with something for you. Don't give up.......yet.......

I have looked until my eyes are crossed........ There are some old seal catalogs and interchange books at the shop I used to own. I'll try to check tomorrow.

So you know the real photographic magic happens in the darkroom much the same as using a program to manipulate digital photos. Also one can take 40 shots of something which cost nothing, they're just pixels. I'm not trying to dissuade anyone from using their period cameras but, by comparison, they're a lot of work with results that are much more difficult to correct.

International Harvester built 215,551 McCormick Deering 10-20 tractors in which the engines all had ball bearing crankshafts, one bearing at each end. I have never heard of anyone having to replace the crankshaft bearings but just because I haven't heard doesn't mean they haven't been but it's definitely a very rare thing.

I was going to question the fineness of the emulsions of today versus shooting digital B&W or shooting digital color and simply desaturating the image so I thought I'd find a decent quality digital color photo of the 1919 Model T I had saved and give it a test. This is the result of desaturating the color with no other adjustments. In this case I think it turned out very well.

If you are using MAACO (and I hope you will) it might not hurt to tell them, up front, you aren't looking to save money, you are seeking a good paint job. Sometimes a few extra bucks can buy a lot.......

Can you manually retard the ignition timing from the dash? The first place I'd start would be to advance the timing, mybe significantly. which would require you are able to retard the timing for starting.

I think you're in trouble no matter what year it is, but especially so, with it being so early. The one in the attached photo is an '03 Model A. MANY years ago (pre internet) the owner had it restored and even then Model A cylinders could not be found but a pair of Model B cylinders were acquired so they were used. If you had even some engine parts........well........you know....... I know some engine parts have been cast and patterns for whatever was reproduced likely still exist. It's not unheard of to have complete engines built but it puts a pretty good dent in estate planning....... I have a friend who is working on a Model C (?)........I know he has made parts for theirs and he is extremely talented at doing the impossible which takes a bit longer.......

This may or may not help.......

Check ebay. I was looking for a carb kit for a friend's '48 Olds 88 so went to ebay and found a seller store in NY who has an amazing invertory. I can't tell you who but can do some detective work if necessary. You might try https://www.carburetor-parts.com as well.

Cliff, keep an eye on a thread I started for you at SmokStak.com >>> https://www.smokstak.com/forum/threads/fuller-sons-mfg-co-model-gu-7-transmission-clutch-pack-removal.205380/ There are some unbelievable people there too....... ;)

Yes, one is for the adjusting rack pinion and the other holds it in place once adjusted.

If you're going to drive it into the ground why would you care if you wound up with a salvage title? Last November a deer materialized directly in front of my 2002 S10 with an estimated cost of repairs of about $2900. A few minutes of online shopping made the picture crystal clear for me. There's no way I could replace mine for that kind of money so I had it repaired because I KNOW what I have. I bought it used with around 35K on it and it STILL has less than 80K on it. The insurance adjuster was throwing the salvage title thing at me and I told him, straight out, I couldn't care less about the title because I'm going to to drive it until the wheels fall off. Insurance adjusters are right up there with lawyers....... 🤬

With a name like Keiser you never know.......

I think 2016 might be the last year Point Brewery made a special run and that one was a special run as there were some skipped years in between.

A local newspaper had a story about the Iola Car Show scheduled for July 9-11. They haven't yet thrown in the towel. The planners are holding out hope this Corona thing will have settled down by then. I am hoping along with them as cancelling the show would be catastrophic for the more than one hundred organizations who benefit as well as the greater central Wisconsin area and beyond. https://www.iolaoldcarshow.com

Here in central Wisconsin there has never been a better time to take out the old cars and I have been, almost daily. Highway traffic is almost negligible compared to what is normal around here. Having gas prices hovering around $1.35 + or - doesn't hurt either....... 👍

There can be no guesswork with the needle/lever engagement. It has to be right......close won't cut it. Once you get it right you shouldn't have to fiddle with it ever again. That's the upside.......

I feel your pain....trust me. Until you get that carb straightened out you can't chase other problems. It's like a carb/ignition problem........both have identical symptoms (which are almost always ignition) but you have to eliminate one to chase the other.......

The reason I asked is because, at no time, should there be any space between the lever and the adjusting screw at idle. Also bear in mind the setting is opposite what you likely think it is. When you turn screw down you are enriching the mixture. You have to think backward which isn't easy. Many old Farmall tractor carbs have the same eccentricity as do many old Ensign carbs.......it can drive you nuts.......

Are you CERTAIN the return spring IS, in fact, pulling the lever back all the way every time? Something looks fishy.

Yes you are. Read my reply at the Dodge Brothers forum.