miker98038

Question. Are you saying the turn signals don’t work, or that they come on but don’t “blink”. It’s normally referred to as a “flasher”. Even a new one wouldn’t work if the wrong bulbs, or no bulbs are used. Not that all of the cheap off shore stuff works even when new.

I'd start with the Thunderbird specialist as suggested above. If you don't find what you need, I'd also try John Mummert over in El Cajon. Not a 'bird guy, but lots of y block parts. http://www.ford-y-block.com/. Not a bad drive over from PSP, I've done it a number of times. Tim McMasters up near Visalia http://yblockguy.com/, also an engine builder. Ted Eaton at http://www.eatonbalancing.com/. No telling what parts they may have in inventory. You might also try at http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/default.aspx. There was a 312 crank up in Oregon a little while back.

My understanding is the porthole was a mid year change, in 56. Someone with real knowledge will chime in, I'm sure. Porthole tops did not have the emblem, and non porthole did. I don't know if it was an add option, or a delete to not have it. Ford offered a retrofit kit, which is still available from some of the suppliers (repop, I'm sure). I added portholes to my 55 because it was so blind in traffic, but kept the emblem, indicating it was installed later, a bit of a moot point on a 55.

Matt has it right. I've owned a couple of ceiling mounted lifts. The ones you buy have pulleys too small, small rope, etc. I didn't have the ceiling height to pull the car out, so you had to back it in. Then, the top is never centered, and you're trying to hold the rope, and push it around to line it up. I've owned big engine hoists, to pull truck engines, and I don't think any of them went high enough, or had the reach/angle to pull the top. Buy a rack to put the top on (the weatherstripping doesn't like being stored on the floor, or left in a sling) and a case of beer for your buddy. If that's not an option, maybe an old swing set off Craig's list, to act as an A frame. But the above issues are still there.

I agree with both the above. I have a friend in the insulation business, and used a foil/rubber product used to insulate chemical tanks for either heat or cool. Flat rubber sheet, 12"x18", self adhesive. I used my laminate rollers to put it down. It's not cheap, and heavier than you would think. But it really stopped the heat. A supply house for industrial work should have something similar. Plug all the holes, and fit as close as possible around the shifter.

I did that several years ago, using the bars and gas shock kits from one of the Tbird suppliers. It's a worthwhile"driver" modification in my opinion. Not for a concours car. I don't know what if any Koni shocks would fit the bird. I've used them and liked them on other cars, but took the easy way out on the bird.

Paul's right. It was so many years ago I did that, I forgot about it. There's a lot of info out there about how a fan should fit in the shroud. If you're doing a concours restoration it's a moot point, you have no choice. After over 50 years many cars have had parts changed, parts substituted,etc. so you'll have to look at what you've got, and how you use the car. I bought my 55bird 16 years ago, from a State Patrol officer. He got it from an attorney, who got it from a drug dealer, who used it as a retainer. Dealing drugs from a Thunderbird Blue car, in Bellingham WA. It looked like a lot of work was traded for product, and they used the product while they did the repair. Just keep fixing things, it's worth it once you've got a reliable car.

Radiator discussion going on here. Might be of interest. http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Topic113980.aspx Many of us have had overheating problems in traffic. The shroud is a must.

Scroll down about 9 items, there's some notes on alignment and weatherstripping. Door problems on birds are pretty common, and yours look way better than mine. I'm told really good body men can shim the body/frame mounting and improve things. That is beyond my talent.

Relying on my somewhat rusty memory, that looks like the setup I had. You might try disconnecting the booster vacumn and plugging it. You should feel a difference, if you don't, I'd start with the booster. it sounds like you also might have a lot of free pedal travel. I don't remember the particulars, but there's some difference in pushrods length between power and manual master cylinders on some cars. A rebuild master might come with a bore size spacer. Using it when you shouldn't preloads the brakes. Leaving it out means you run out of pedal travel before you apply full pressure. You need some pedal free play in a bird, the heat from the exhaust manifold will "apply" the brakes if there too little. Ask how I know. If those don't pan out, next step is probably to bleed everything, and check the adjustment on the rear shoes.

In 1999, I put what sounds like the same setup on my 55. It used a spacer on the spindle, new wheel bearings, modified Granada rotors, Fairlaine calipers, and custom brackets. Dual master,boost on the front only using the OEM power booster and mount. It also included new rear wheel cylinders, of a different bore, to balance the system. I don't remember the pedal effort as being high. I do remember keeping the rear shoes properly adjusted was more important than usual. While I suspect Dave is correct about the booster, it could also be a mis match of parts.

It's been years since I pulled and re chromed my column. But I think the "slide" length on the steering shaft was longer than the "slide" length on the column. Try putting the column in the collapsed position, then pulling the shaft out. There's something in my old memory that's bothering me. Like the shaft would slide down before the wheel was on. So I had to slide the column up from the box, block it, put the wheel on, and slip it back down. Wish I could be more precise.

I am currently replacing the window channels in my 55 (power windows), and the door glass. Lew has it right. One tip, install the rollers and clips on the window channel assembly first, even if it is in the door. The scissor mechanism will then "pop" in. The shafts are tapered. You only have to pull the clips to remove them, making the install much easier.

It's nice that Detroit57 came back and wrote up the solution. That said, an intermittent problem is tough, but I'd be looking at the points in the regulator. Any sign of pitting, erosion, or a generally gummed up unit, I'd replace it. When I bought my bird,I drove it home in the dark, about 70 miles. New battery. The headlights would dim till I couldn't see, then the regulator would kick in, back to bright, and then start to dim again. I was holding my breath, waiting for the engine to quit before those points closed. I made it, and replaced the regulator immediately. Problem solved.

Thank you. I look forward to the installation pictures.