Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About BretK

  • Birthday 12/28/1967

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

BretK's Achievements

250+ Points

250+ Points (1/7)

  • Collaborator

Recent Badges



  1. couple of dash pics, also note i have a spare instrument cluster bezel
  2. Oh Poop, sorry about that, yes its near Auburn Indiana, and was looking for $9700 but am open to offers. Thanks!
  3. I am reluctantly considering offers on my Vic 6 as a 2 seater with 4 kids really isn't a practical ride for family fun. This is an unrestored running driving original. Runs and drives great, Brakes re-done, new tires, Distributor re-done, Starter re-done, Generator re-done, carb re-done. new plugs and wires, new hoses. electric fuel pump added, but all original vacuum system still there if you want to convert back, engine starts on first try, seatbelts added. All gauges but speedo and gas work as they should. Headlights and windshield wiper work. cowl vent works, window cranks and lock works, original floor in good shape, all original interior including original trunk carpet. Original body and paint as seen in pics. .Includes Factory and dealer options such as Wing Windows, Tool Kit, Winter Radiator Baffle, Wheel Stands, Vacuum Powered Cabin Fan, Fog Light. Spares included : Extra instrument Cluster, Extra wood spoke wheel, New Rhode Island Wiring Harness not installed yet, Rebuilt gas gauge and sending unit not yet installed. Numerous spare Vintage tools, Full Service Manual, This car is in incredible shape given its age.
  4. So I have a question. I took a look underneath where the clutch pedal yoke is and there is still adjustment left there so if I screw it out, ie lengthen the distance of the actuating arm, it is like pushing in the clutch farther. If I do this it shifts ok, but ithe pedal wants to return farther than it can. If I leave it like this, isn't it like riding the clutch? It seems to engage well tho.
  5. My Vic six coupe built in july steel bows, tray ceiling
  6. I need to replace the non original rubber floormat in my 28 dodge coupe. There is the original fiber insulating blanket, but what was the covering? Ribbed rubber, linoleum or what? thanks, pbret
  7. What did dodge use to cover the wooden floorboards in the front of my victory six coupe? I have the horsehair or other fiber underlayment and an old rubber mat that is from a 1935 Chevy pickup someone modified, but what was originally there, and how do I find material to replace it? thanks! bret
  8. Jason, thanks, yes I have added and turned down the grease tube, any reccomendations on a shop to do the work on the clutch? I think by adjusting the linkage I was able to get a little more out of the clutch travel, but it will be a must do repair this fall/winter bret
  9. Yes the engine was running, I can shift fine stationary, I am ot sur I totally understand the clutch transmission but it is as though the engine connection is not the problem it is the driveshaft end that is not working right. With the car sitting still, and engine running I can shift thru the gears using the clutch with no problems, but if the car is rolling, say and I want to go from 1st to second or second to third. I depress the pedal, it. Comes out of gear fine, I double clutch, but it does not go into the next gear without lots of grinding, not just speed matching the engine , but grinding like there is power behind it. Ie not like just a freewheeling of gears until speeds match but the car must be slowed to a stop to shift. I don't know how else to describe it, and as this is my first old car, I have nothing to compare it with. I just know this is not how it was working before.
  10. Well I was driving the car this morning, and all of a sudden it wouldn't shift without grinding unless the car was stationary. The clutch adjustment is maxed. Am I stuck with disassembly at this point? Do I need a new clutch? I am clueless.:confused: is it the clutch, transmission or what. Fluid levels are good. Shifts fine standing still.
  11. I ran a direct lead from the bat side of the cut out to the bat and checked voltage across. It would bounce around a lot. Took a vid of the cutout, it showed it opening and closing a lot. Held cutout closed manually while checking voltage, it stabilized somewhat at 6.8 to 7 volts showing charging. I sent my cutout to Jason for rebuilding and got a cheapie solid state cutout off flea at to use in the meantime. bret
  12. Well, I thinks with much help from jason (thanks Jason!) it appears the cutout is the problem. So off to Jason it goes for rebuilding.
  13. Mags are also pretty darn reliable, they are still used to this day in most light piston engined airplanes.
  • Create New...