Tom_

Simpler question than normal. I'm looking at replacing the muffler with something a little less anemic sounding. I've been looking at the Flowmaster 40 Series and the Super 44 Series but I've heard of people who run Magnaflows on these too. I'm just looking for something throaty like the chambered sound. I'm not fond of the glasspack sound and definitely don't want it to sound ricy like some of the Magnaflows I've listened too. I have a shop that's going to either reuse or make me a little bigger version of the stock tailpipes because I want to keep it appearing stock. No disrespect to anyone who runs duals on these but I've always hated them because they ALWAYS have one that ends up hanging lower than the other, plus I like the stock look. I don't like chrome tips either. Essentially I want a meaner sound, with stock appearance. Let me know what you guys run I'm interested to hear what some people that have more experience with these motors like. P.S. I saw another red/black Reatta on my way home from work last week in (to be vague) east Texas. I had to do a double take to make sure it was real because it's the only other one I've ever seen since I got mine. If that's anyone here I'd like to say hi

It's beechwood and what's left of the original material is essentially white. I don't mind the fading on beechwood much as long as it's not falling apart. The thin strip you mentioned is firmly attached on the driver's side but the passenger side has about the bottom 6 inches detached from the tape. That's one of the leaks I'm sure but it was not the only one. I pulled gently around the top and angled part of the weatherstripping and none of it seems to be coming off apart from a very small part towards the rear on the passenger door. I suppose the plan of action would be to glue back on the obvious bits and pull up on the bottom of the rubber and shoot rtv between the rubber and the metal. There's a tear about an inch long on the back side of the rubber at the angle on both sides but I don't know that it would cause a leak given the location (only visible looking up from below) but I'm going to use a dab of rtv on it anyway. Is it possible to adjust the angle of the rear of the window so it hugs the rear weatherstrip more? If I stick my ear up to the back top corner of the window while driving 40+ or so I can hear the faintest air leak.

The up stop limiter seems to be in adjustment. The top of the window meets the lip on the top weatherstripping snugly and reaches the top of the vent window run channel without trying to tear out the rubber seal. Honestly this couldn't have come at a better time, I'm recovering the A pillar covers with headliner material since Safelite did a number on them when they replaced the windshield which is 100% not the source of the leak.

Water is definitely coming in at the transition in angle behind the weatherstripping. So I'll take care of that. When I look from underneath and behind the top part of the weatherstripping I see no evidence of adhesives of any kind. This makes me belive I'm looking at the wrong place. The drivers side is leaking at the top of the vent window and the upper back corner. The passengers side is just by the vent window. Do I need to pull off the weatherstripping to see where to rtv the top part or is is accessible from the bottom?

My door weatherstripping is leaking with this new influx of East Texas rain and I've read something about the weatherstripping needing to seal to the body of the car. The traditional method of stuffing vacuum line behind the weatherstripping to push it out shouldn't work in this case I assume. I've had some in there and I've also adjusted the vent window angle and neither has done much to help. My question is, should the vacuum line or some such material behind the weatherstripping help or hurt this type or seal? I've never had a pillar less door vehicle before so I don't know how those seals work. The other question I have is, where exactly would I put some 3M weatherstripping adhesive to possible help the seal with the body? I've seen this explained but I haven't seen a picture which would make it much clearer to me.

If I buy my new motor from the Reatta Store does that benefit you in any direct way? If not I'll just go to my FLAPS and have the part tomorrow but I appreciate the resource you've set up and would like to support it if I can even if it means waiting for the part in the mail.

I went to roll down my, up until this point fully functional, window and was greeted with it moving maybe 6 inches down and stopping with a loud grinding noise that vibrated the door bad enough I thought the mirror would fall off. At that spot it wouldn't go up or down unless I pushed it down or pulled up on it. When I pulled up it moved on it's own about halfway back up and stopped again until I pulled again. Then it caught and rolled all the way up. With it in the fully up position if I push the window button up it makes the noise like the motor can just turn even when the window is up. I haven't had time to pull the panel off but I'm betting the window motor is to blame. Is it usually the motor that fails or the regulator?

If it is a faulty ECM it's a job for another day (and another paycheck). I know not to buy a "remanufactured" one, maybe Ronnie can chime in with a quality replacement.

It has just occurred to me that it could be an ECM issue. I have been afraid to mess with it thus far but the thing may have a bad connection or just have gone bad in some way. Is there an easy way to test the voltage on the BC5 pin? I'm kind of slow when it comes to the electrical testing on these things but how do you back test those connectors while the engine is running or even when it's off but plugged in?

I got a new ICM put on today and now the voltages are 10.7 on A to B and 8.9 on B to C. So the A to B voltage is still a bit high but the ICM was the source of the low B to C voltage. I just got back from a test drive and I still have the 41 code from pretty much right when I start the car. Good news is the ICM replacement has greatly improved throttle response and acceleration and smoothed out my idle. I suppose I'd better recheck the magnet just to be 100% sure it's there... Now I'm kind of at a loss for what it could be but I'm still determined to find a solution (other than pulling the SES light bulb out).

Yes. The flow chart for troubleshooting this code says they should both be between 8 and 10 volts.

Hi all. First I'd like to thank everyone that helped me out last time I posted this problem here. Now onto the problem. I still have the E041 and very little power. I've been driving it with the code for a couple of months now just because I had briefly given up on the solution after replacing the Cam Interrupter Magnet and the Cam Sensor twice. I got out today and verified the Padgett fix to the magnet was still holding and it was. The wiring looks okay around the connector and I checked it all the way back to the main harness and it's all fine. Now, the new developments. I've been using the Reatta as a daily driver since June 2nd and she's ran as well as you could expect for having no cam signal. The gas mileage has been holding around 27 at 70mph which is just fine by me but the city mileage is absolutely horrible which just started recently. This has motivated me to start investigating this problem again. I just got out there and went through the diagnostic procedure for that error code and I am to a point where I need some outside opinions. I got down to the section on checking the voltage between pins A and B and pins C and B. A and B voltage was 11.8V and B and C voltage was 4.7V. Now the 4.7V is low so I checked the resistance between the pin on the ICM connector and pin C on the Cam sensor connector and it showed .002 Ohms and infinite when I went from the ICM pin to a ground so I know there's no short in that wire. The high 11.8V is what confuses me. It should be between 8 and 10 volts and I have no idea why it would be high. I'm thinking that the low voltage from the ICM could mean it's going bad or it has bad grounds which is to be expected from what I'm pretty sure is the original unit. I'm going to clean the grounds for it tomorrow and check for any goo. Do you guys have any idea on what could cause a higher voltage on pin A? Also does it sound like an ICM issue in general? I know right after I replaced the magnet it worked for about a day with no codes, then the next day it threw an E041 whenever it warmed up but not when it was cold. Then every time it started up from the next day onward I had the code. So it sounds like a thermal issue of some kind.

I went out and fiddled with the release handle and moved it around and let it snap back and tried the pedal several times. I still have just resistance of the spring. I stuck my head down there and it doesn't appear the cable is moving but I could be wrong.

I have what was marketed as 3/32 steel line with a plastic coating. It's really 1/8 with a 3/32 core and I figure I can get the plastic and mast hot enough to get it pushed up into the mast and then JB weld/silver solder the end in from the top. I'm interested to know if the end of the brake cable can slip out of the pedal or if it's something simple like that. Because I never really use the parking brake (park on a flat parking lot in east TX) and one day I went out and had nothing but the pedal return spring. It's always worked, even after putting pads on the rear and fighting with the little arms to get it adjusted over a year ago it's always worked. So I never got a "I pushed the pedal, felt it give and had no parking brake" kind of moment it just worked one day and the next time it didn't.

For those of you that remember my last post I've now got the headlight motors rebuilt and a new power steering pump in that doesn't puke all over the parking lot. This week I'm trying to get the antenna nylon cord replaced. Progress is being made! My parking brake has stopped working. The pedal doesn't ratchet and it has virtually no resistance except what I assume to be a return spring in the pedal. I'm 90% sure it's the front cable that connects directly to the pedal. Does that sound right? Has anyone done this repair before that can tell me how difficult it is/how to get to it? Maybe one day these little things will all be fixed so I can tackle the cam sensor code and ABS light.

I didn't have a problem. The longest part is waiting for the JB Weld to cure. That being said if you take your time, move the coolant reservoir, the water pump pulley and belt etc it's not even that hard to get the magnet in but that does take a little longer to put together afterwards. Make sure the magnet is the problem before you do it though because I jumped through all the hoops and still have the code 41.

Got to the Lowe's in town today and managed to find some nylon coated braided steel cable. It was actually marked as 3/32 which turned out to be the size of the core. It's a little bigger than the 1/8 that was next to it but I can shave it down since it just has to fit inside the smallest part of the mast. I also ordered some of the plastic pieces for the headlight motors. Turns out if you buy them when they're marketed for a vette or fiero of the same era they're pretty cheap and easy to find. I plan on posting drawings with all the dimensions and a rough hardness to this thread so people can make their own if they for some reason become scarce.

Thanks for the help. So I just unscrew the ferrel and run the line up to the end and silver solder it to the mast close to the top? Leaving room for the threads the ferrel uses. The headlights have had new bell cranks at some point is the problem not the pieces of plastic inside the motor that can disintegrate? Or any other pieces for that matter? I figured plastic would wear faster than steel. Quick edit, would this work? http://www.lowes.com/pd_348278-273-5977020_0__?productId=3645160&Ntt=coated+cable&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dcoated%2Bcable&facetInfo= It's advertised diameter is 3/16'' (.1875) which is a bit bigger than what I could find for the stock diameter (.119''). Anybody know what Barney uses?

Finally finished making a nice looking aluminum plate to cover up where the stock tape deck sits. As I go to drive home from the shop I turn on my lights and my passenger's side headlight goes up as normal but the motor keeps spinning for 4 or 5 seconds making a clicking/clunking noise and did the same thing when I turned the lights off and it closed. I know these motors had various failure points but it threw me since it was going up and down easily. What kit do I need to fix this specific problem? After I get out of the car I hear the antenna motor spinning longer than it should. The antenna was stopped about halfway down and the motor was spinning. I had to push it down, turn on the car, get it to extend with help and then get it to retract as I pushed it down about the speed it normally goes to get the motor to stop. I understand that it's probably the plastic line inside the mast and having read Barney's repair instructions I'm having trouble seeing where the line attaches to the top section of the mast. I understand the "J" clip but not how the line attaches to the tip of the mast (If somebody had pictures that would help immensely). If you can explain how it fits in there to help me understand I'm sure I can fix it myself. Talk about eventful evenings. Also as an update, various jiggles of the engine harness and I still have a constant E041, it now fills up with water after it rains (only under the seats and dead center of the driver's floor mat), and the ABS light is still on. But it's got brand spankin' new tires, a new windshield, new cruise servo, new cam magnet and sensor, new radio capacitors, and four new speakers. Thanks for any help in advance, Tom

Yes and yes. The search function is where I found the spare tire explanation.

I saw in another thread it could be from the trunk leaking and the spare tire well overflowing into the floorboards. I'll check that tomorrow afternoon. Is there any way to check the rear window seals without taking it through the car wash?

I was going to get dinner Sunday night and noticed a dark area beneath the rear of the seats on both sides. I reached down there and the carpet was SOAKING wet. I smelled it and it didn't have any particular order like antifreeze would. I think it's water. The odd part is, there is zero evidence of water leakage of any kind on the seats, rockers, door sills floor mats or anywhere else. Just under both seats and towards the rear, i.e. no water in front of the front seat mounting bolts. I looked at all the seals and they looked alright and left the windows cracked the next day in the sun and it didn't dry out at all. Today I got in and there was a new wet spot in the middle of the driver's side floor mat. Smelled the same and was absolutely drenched in a very localized spot about 6 inches across and in an irregular shape. I checked the door seals, looked underneath at those sealed spots in the floor and they looked alright to me. I have never had a car be this wet and have no evidence near the bottom of the doors of leaks. It's so humid in there the windows are foggy if I park it anywhere at night. Rain or shine. Any ideas? Between the abs light always being on, the hole in the dash where the tape deck used to be, the 41 code constantly on and the washer pump refusing to work I'm about ready to throw in the towel on this car (towels having already been thrown in to try to soak up the water). Tom

Just a thought, but could the ECM be bad or would there be other symptoms? The light is just coming on as soon as the key is turned like it should, turning off while the starter motor is running, then immediately coming back on when I let off the starter and staying on. Even when I clear the code prior to starting the engine it turns on as soon as I let off the starter. Shouldn't it stay off for two seconds and after two seconds without the cam signal throw the error and turn on the light?

Unfortunately contact cleaner didn't do the trick. I have to drive 320 miles or so this weekend so we'll see if it fixes itself and reevaluate it once the trip is over. I'm going to pull on the harness a little bit and see what happens. I have no idea at this point other than pulling the harness to look for all the shorts and that's not really possible at the moment.

That actually kind of makes sense because it was working until I left it off overnight in my carport and then it stopped working entirely.