Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by oldguy668

  1. I am “resto-modding” my ’56 and I have the following ready to ship or coming off the car shortly: These items are ready to go now Front spindles with brakes Front upper control arms 5 OEM steel wheels with excellent Sears Allstate tires and OEM hubcaps OEM radiator (needs rebuilding) Hard top. Does not have portholes so maybe wrong year. Needs headliner.. Non-working OEM radio OEM steering wheel. No cracks These will become available during the winter Complete 312 engine. Recent valve job, new pushrods. Dress-up kit. Complete Ford-O-Matic transmission (air cooled) Complete Dana 44 rear end assembly with brakes and driveshaft Complete continental kit with rear bumper assembly Pair of front bumper over-riders (bullets?, boobs?) Plan B is to sell the whole car. It runs fine, looks decent and all the OEM parts in the first list go with it if you want to do a restoration. There is a soft top with swing bar that needs new covering and weatherseals. It has a NEW frame done by previous owner. The paint looks good at 20 feet. It currently has 1980 Lincoln Versailles front spindles and disk brakes. The wheels are Mustang V6, late model, 16x7. The entire front suspension and steering is new except the steering box. There is an aluminum radiator in place. The dash cover is new, and all instruments work and have been refurbished. I recently installed a NOS main wiring harness. Heater, power windows, power seats all work well. Turn signals and backup lights work. Email joseph “dot” leone “at” Verizon “dot” net Text nine 7 eight 6 eight 7 seven 1 oh 5
  2. I got a new(ish) frame and a crap body. I probably paid $5-7 K too much for the body condition.
  3. I got the car with the replacement frame. No undercoating, though. It was bead blasted and powder coated and it looks new, but it could have been a really good rehab. Since I fixed the seats, I pulled the dash, replaced the dash harness with a NOS unit, replaced the front spindles with Lincoln Versailles units, replaced the entire steering linkage, changed the radiator and refurbished all the gauges and switches. The previous owner did the undercoating camouflage on the underside of the body and the engine compartment. I have to pull the engine to clean the engine room.
  4. Thanks for the heads up. I looked in the Reference Manual after I saw your reply and it's right there plain as day.
  5. What's the best access point to replace the front crossover harness? Grill? Radiator? Lower valance?
  6. Five hundred years ago, I could have gotten stoned or hung or worse for asking a question like this, but I'm willing to take the chance. I really want to install a late 302 small block into my '56, but I have run into a little snag. Apparently, Tbirds have the engine mounted in a totally different configuration than Fords and Mercurys. The engine is front mounted where Fords and Mercs are side mounted. So, none of the shops that fab engine swap parts for Fords can help me with the Bird. I'd appreciate any help if someone can point me in the right direction to find the parts I need.
  7. Thanks for pointing me to the blog topic.
  8. Well, that's an important bit of info. Makes the supply much greater. I'm accumulating pieces to replace all the front end parts, including Lincoln spindles with disk brakes. I already have a set of upper arms, and if I can find some lowers I'll be able to beadblast and powdercoat all the pieces and just do a swap. That way the car isn't on stands for a month while all the bits get pretty. Thanks for the tip.
  9. Looking to buy. Please respond here or via PM
  10. What threw me off was the snaps that were on the lower windshield molding when I got the car. There are seven screws holding the moldings in place, and each had a snap, although there were no other snaps anywhere on the car, and I can't match what's there. My upholsterer and I have come up with a Plan B that should work well.
  11. I purchased a tonneau from one of the usual vendors, and the instructions are a grainy, 7th generation photocopy of a fax from last century. What I can determine from the instructions is that there are several disagreements between them and the Trim and Sealer manual. Does anybody have a set of instructions that are actually legible or shall I stick to the trim and sealer manual?
  12. The clips keep the inner windshield trim from squashing down where the defrost openings are. It looks like a spacer of some sort will work. I just thought I'd ask in case someone else had already solved the problem.
  13. The dash has been powdercoated (white backside), the instruments have all been refurbished, and tomorrow it goes to to the upholsterer for a new vinyl cover. Here's the question: one of the three funny-looking clips on the leading edge is missing. It looks like the spot weld broke some time ago. I guess their purpose is to keep the inner trim piece from smooshing down. What's the recommended fix? Obviously I need a spacer block of some sort, but I'd like to hear what others have done.
  14. FS701 shows that it's a daisy-chain ground that runs to the speaker grille, speedo pod, tach, and a couple of spots on the dash. Looks like I'm all set, Lew. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.
  15. One last bit of help and I'll have this baby running by the weekend. When I removed the dash to replace the harness, this section of daisy-chained grounds fell out. I haven't been able to find it on any schematics, but it would be helpful if I knew which 5 or 6 things it connected to. It appears to be part number 14590.
  16. Thanks for the tip, Lew. I have that page in front of me and I think it's starting to clear my mental cobwebs.
  17. The window circuit is easy. There's a feed from the BAT side of the start relay through the "safe relay" (that one just kills the window circuit when the key is off) then to the 30 amp breaker on the cowl panel. From the breaker, each door gets a power feed (red-blue). Here's where I get lost. The Electrical Assembly Manual (Page FS95) shows a feed from the ACC terminal of the ignition switch through a 15A breaker (location unknown) to the seat switch assembly. However, it also shows a feed from the BAT side of the starter relay through a 30A breaker to both seat motor relays. Since I am rewiring the dash harness, I need to know what the deal is with the wire that goes to the seat switch. Is it part of the dash harness or the door harness?
  18. I just bought this little red 56 about 6 weeks ago. I didn't pay crazy money, and I expected there would be some things wrong that I'd find out about as I went along. So, I discovered that I need a valve job and the soft top needs some work, and most of the weatherstripping is like black sticky sawdust. That's the easy stuff. I started to check out the wiring to see why the clock, dash lights, radio, lighter, etc had no power. The only things that seemed to work were the ignition, lights, horn, seats and windows. You know, the essential stuff. Being pretty good at wiring, I crawled under the dash last week to take a look. Horrified is putting it lightly. Most of the dash harness was cooked to a crisp, and some imbecile had bypassed most of it by jumping off the big yellow feed wire (he also bypassed the fuses). Some of the wires were welded together and some were just melted into clumps. I ended up pulling the dash out since it needs re-covering anyway. I sent the clock out for repair and got the tach and speedo cleaned up pretty nice. I got lucky over the weekend and scored a NOS dash harness with the same part number as mine, and that should be here in a couple of days. So, here's the dilemma: All the wiring diagrams I have clearly show TWO circuit breakers on the cowl panel, one for the seats and one for the windows. My car has only one breaker, and both the seats and windows tie into it. There is no evidence (like holes) that there ever was a second breaker. Not really a big deal since it's unlikely that any of them will be used simultaneously. My guess is that the car did not get built with both power options so it did not get wired for them. Nevertheless, wanting to do it right, I want to install the second breaker. But, the diagrams do not clearly show the power path for the seats. The windows are easy (Big yellow wire to the "safe relay" and back to the BAT terminal on the breaker, then split to each window harness), but the seats look like they have two 12V feeds, which is causing my head to spin (not comfortable at my age). If anyone has some insight into the gordian knot-like seat harness connections at the cowl, I'd really appreciate a little coaching
  19. Thanks for responding. I ended up taking all the wires off both relays, cleaning all the undercoating off the wires and bands, and starting from scratch with my trusty electrical manual. Everything works, and I found one of the seat frame bolts (studs are long gone) was so long it was causing the seat to bind. When I get some help to lift the seat out, I'll remove it again and lube everything under there. BTW, I'm 10 years older than my 12 volt 'bird
  20. So...the guys who reassembled my car before I got it (new frame) pinched the main cable (#14593) going to the fore and aft seat motor. It was pinched between the seat frame and floor, so when I moved the seat all the way up to have the soft top checked out the connectors under the seat got yanked, so I could not get the seat back (I looked like a clown trying to drive with the wheel in my chin). I let the guy who does some repairs for me take a crack at a diagnosis since I was booked solid all afternoon and we did not yet know about the wires self-disconnecting. He promptly decided it was the relay... no, it's the switch...no, it must be the motor..you get the picture, right? Now, both relays are totally disconnected and I have to redo the wiring, which really should not be a big deal once I get the undercoating off the wires and terminals. So, here's the question: My electrical schematic (Page FS872) clearly shows two circuit breakers behind the dash, one for the windows and one for the seats. Casco's website says the breakers are "2/car". I found a third, which appears to protect the grounds to the motors, screwed to the floor pan above the seat angle motor. The schematic lists it with the same number as the two under the dash (14526). I've never seen a circuit breaker in a DC ground wire before, but that doesn't mean much, there are lots of things I haven't seen. I'll assume it's correct and just try to hook everything up. If there are two wires with the same color and circuit number, does it make a difference which relay they get attached to? If I unbolt the driver's side seat mounts, can I get the end of the seat up high enough to reconnect the wires at the motor? Let me add one more question: What are the terminal assignments on the relays so I can bench test them?
  21. We'll get it up on the lift and be very careful. Thanks
  22. I just started messing with the 56 I bought a few weeks ago. Need to change the trans filter and gasket, but the dipstick tube won't come out of the pan. I want to have a spare pan just in case I damage the old one, but I can't seem to locate any. Any Fordomatic specialists out there that might still have some spare parts?
  • Create New...