slosteve

Did you happen to look inside the leads before you installed them? I think I would consult with whoever you acquired them from. Steve

Where is this car located? Steve

Have you taken any photos of/during the swap? Would like to see them if you did. Would also appreciate your input/experience with it after it's finished and driven.

The rag joint reduces vibration & other 'road feel' anomalies in the shaft/steering wheel. A common u-joint will transfer them. My experience. Steve

I believe Mr Riviera (Dick Sweeney- post #7) still does this also. Steve

This is what I found when I tore down my '65 401 with 119K on the clock;

I just finished putting my rear axle back together after putting a new gasket on the 3rd member and installing new seals. It had been leaking a little since I bought it but got MUCH worse after I changed what looked like the original gear oil. It actually started leaking while sitting in the garage on the lift - when the weather got 'warm'. Now, I live in one of the warmest places in the U.S.A but still was a little puzzled. First thought was the oil I used must of been too thin (?). 85w-90. I tightened the 10 center section nuts a bit and it seemed to stop. So off to Reno I went and the temps were 110 - 115 for about 600+ miles. It actually spewed the stuff out; all over my new Waldrons muffler, rear bumper and below the deck lid! Same on the way home so I tore into it. This time I used 85w-140 gear oil. Haven't driven it enough to check it yet. But I believe you are in the middle of winter down there so heat would not be the problem. I checked my vent tube also and blew a few granules out of it while I had everything open but doubt that it was blocked. Will be interested in what you find. Steve

Could you tell us how a person that doesn't know modern radio internals would be able to tell the diff? By the sound (after purchase)? Steve

Excellent information Loren. I had to replace my driver door mechanism due to that broken spring. Steve

Looks like a chopped top. Steve

The Buick manual says the same thing! When I had mine done I took the above diagram and the text that goes along with it to the shop doing the work. It came out fine but there apparently was a lot of cursing during the process. Steve

Nice work, Tony. You CAN do it! Steve

Some images I shot at the Thursday show. The weather was perfect. Steve

Okay. Thanks everybody. Steve

So what goes there on your 'other' engines? Or is there no whole there? I never noticed. Duh

I've been looking at my local parts houses but can't seem to find one of these. On my engine, it's on the drivers side front of valve cover that holds the 'breather' thing. Any sources that you know of? Here's a photo of my rebuilt engine in it's home prior to it's first 'fire in the hole' moment. It ran pretty good. Steve

Thanks, Scott. Steve

Wondering if anyone has found a decent way to repair the seal at the top of the stick. Mine is half gone and a sure way for dirt & debris to enter the tube. Steve

I'd like to know where and how you found it, whether it runs or not and other little tidbits like that. It sure looks good here. Steve

Would like to find a set of GOOD ones to replace my slightly scored pair. Seems a previous owner allowed the front bearings to overheat and spun the races. Not too bad but enough to make me uneasy. Will be going to Reno this month in case anyone with some would also be there. Just putting my rebuilt 401 back in the car so's I can travel on up there. Steve

My best recollection is that on the rear quarter window pieces there are tiny Philips head screws buried in the 'fuzzy' stuff. 3 me thinks and 2 of them are accessible and the 3rd would be with those stops removed. IF they are not too rusted in place you can get them out with a little patience. Steve

More pictures, more knowledge. My pressure fitting did not have any o ring on it like the large circumference one on yours. So my first thought was that they substituted the skinny one in place of it. Now I know that I need two different animals. Thank you again, Jason

A picture is worth a thousand words, Jason. The o ring in the photos below is what I've been looking for in vain. I found it in the groove just inside the hole (where the screwdriver tip is). This is a rebuilt pump. Now I know that I need a different one. Thanks. Steve

'65 Riv power steering pump. I removed the high pressure fitting on it to make sure it was clear and there is an 'o' ring that fits in a groove right behind it. The book says to replace it and as mine is a bit stiff that is what I'm trying to do. Can't find one of the correct size. Went to my 'best' parts store in town and they have a larger & smaller one. Can anyone tell me the correct size for this thing? Steve

Just wanted to thank you, Arnulfo, for this bit of information. I just finished putting my steering box back together and would not have noticed this without your post. I first measured mine with my caliper and they all seemed to be the same as they were all the same shiny metal. After rechecking with a micrometer I could see the diff. Steve