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slosteve

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Everything posted by slosteve

  1. Shock technology has changed a bit from 1965 and in my opinion in a negative way. Back then they were dampened with oil and today they use a combination oil/gas; mostly the latter. I still have the original shocks that came out of this car and they are a stout piece of work - big & heavy, and wore out. The Monroes that replaced them are much slimmer and lighter. Most of these new shocks are 50/50, meaning essentially that the shock action works the same in both directions. Yes, they do the job but not the way the originals did. I'm afraid that to accomplish my goal I'm going to have spend the $$ for an upscale adjustable that can be tuned in both directions; up & rebound. Steve
  2. Thanks KongaMan, for helping me expand my knowledge of our language as I had to look 'esoteric' up in the book. My particular goal is to get the Riv to ride like I think it did when it was new. I would agree with Dave in that cheap shocks don't meet my expectation. Steve
  3. Sorry guys, yes it is a '67. (As in the title. ). Supposedly, you could drop those keys - with the tag - in any mailbox and they would be sent to you. Back in the 'day'. Steve
  4. This is the only photo I can find of this wonderful 2nd Gen that was my only car in the early '70's. What prompted me to post this was a recent thread on a similar Riv with the original Calif. black plates. I remembered that, for some reason I still had the original set of keys with the little matching license tag on it. Hoping to see the complete numbers ended up being a disappointment however. This is what I found; So I can neither read it on the car or the key tag. But I can read the original key codes as the knock-outs are still there. Steve
  5. Not sure on this one yet Rodney, as I'm chasing the same so-far elusive state of euphoria. Received my CARS body mount kit but have not installed it yet as it appears 'lacking' in substance. I have an inquiry in to Classic Buicks but have not heard back yet. Kongas response to your bushing question is 'right on'. I did a write up (with photos) on these a couple years ago. Steve
  6. Rodney, I found the same true with the Monroes that I put on the rear and I have replaced all the rear end bushings. Rock Auto used to offer sets of 'OE' shocks but they were relatively very expensive so I passed, but often wondered if they might've been the better choice.
  7. As a matter of fact; This shot shows the top bracket & bottom mount on the 'brake reaction rod'. I wanted to be able to remove the bracket if needed so made it 'bolt on'. That piece has a slight curve in it to match the contour of the frame. The bottom mount is also removable; it clamps on the rod. Let me know if you would like to see more detailed photos of this part. Thiis one shows the proximity to the front tire when turned hard left. Fairly critical issue which is why placement of brackets is paramount - but CAN be done. Here is the finished one mounted. It's easy to install nuts onto backside of bolts when positioned here as there is a factory stamped opening in the frame on the other side. The bottom left hole didn't work out so I just drilled another and installed the bolt there. Any other questions I would be glad to answer, Steve
  8. My thought also, Steve. I have heard a number of owners with shockwaves lament on how they wish they would,ve gone with straight bags or are going to change them out when they need it(?). I personally used a 'standard' air spring and did have to fab mounts for the shocks but the ride is 'SUPREME' and I am very pleased. Of course each persons concept of a great ride can be quite different and I hope Scott likes his. Steve
  9. I did the same recently and got the same results. However I made a 'I want it and I want it now' mistake. I ordered just this knob and thought that they really wouldn't charge the just under $10 minimum shipping charge for such a small, light item. WRONG! So from now on I will find something else in their great catalogue that I can't live without when the urge comes over me again. Steve
  10. Do you have any '65 Riviera parts? Looking for a driver quality rear bumper. Steve
  11. Gabriel, have you looked at the track mechanism? When I did my '65 (similar setup) that is where I found really hard old lubricant. Took it all apart, cleaned and re-lubed and it's been working fine since. Best of luck. Steve
  12. Scott, that Riv looks spectacular. Are you driving it yet? Steve
  13. Will post pics soon; haven't made that decision quite yet. Steve
  14. Does the 'lid' go with it?
  15. I have got the body of my '65 lifted on the passenger side right now and have removed all of the cushions & insulators. The most difficulty I've experienced so far is removing the bolts for the pair under the firewall. I have removed the rear & front bumper as well as the lower bumper looking trim piece - which required removing the parking lights under the clamshells to access the bolts for it. On a '65, that lower piece will catch the frame. Also, the battery has to come out to access the drivers side core support bolt. One thing I failed to check while lifting is the fuel line under the rear wheel well. It is attached to the frame coming down from the 'kick-up' and then attaches to the body. Something I found helpful is once you have the bolts removed on the insulators, the steel sleeves that will be hanging down will slide out of the upper cushions, allowing the cushions to then be slid out without raising the body high enough to remove them with the sleeves still installed.
  16. Thanks for the response, guys. I am definitely going to replace them but was hoping to get a recommendation on which kit to buy as stated at the end of post # 7. Steve
  17. I have purchased some 3M Thinsulate for this very area after reading about it on a sound deadening sight. It is supposed to be for marine applications as it is also waterproof, but it's not easy to find nor inexpensive. I have not installed yet. Steve
  18. It's not THAT loud; it probably does have the "Chris Craft rumble" but on the highway especially, it is more noticeable inside the car. Steve
  19. It looks as though I'm going to have to 'shoot from the hip' on this one. I know your projects take a considerable amount of time to complete as I have done a couple myself. That's why I've decided to keep this one a driver. Steve
  20. I bought a Waldons GS system for my '65 401 Riv and have been reasonably happy with it. The downsides for me were also the passenger side fit and I find it much noisier than the rusty, leaky, smaller diameter (restrictive), resonator eliminated, patched up system that it replaced. Must be the muffler plus the larger dia. pipes(?). Steve
  21. Being this is the most recent thread that I have found on this subject I decided to post here. I have found a lot of great info through the 'Search' option and the only info that I found lacking in this array of posts is seat of the pants RESULTS. Is there anyone that would be willing to share what difference they found after installing one of these kits or 'body mount' cushions? I've got one side of my body unbolted and found what most others have; squashed, cracked cushions. What I'm hoping to accomplish is a little softer 'jolt' through the body when driving my 'dreamboat'. My project is a driver and I'm doing my improvements while more or less keeping it that way. One thing that I've noticed since I bought and started driving this Riv is that I seem to get more road 'noise' and feel through the body than I 'remember' feeling when driving these cars when they were newer (which I did). I know that my memory may be distorted and somewhat subjective but as I've stated I'm hoping for some improvement. It appears to me that my best choices for a complete kit are CARS for $149 or Classic Buicks for $244. Common sense would tell a person 'you get what you pay for' and for me it has come down to decision time. Can one be that much better than the other? Steve
  22. What is your definition of 'better handling'? To some that might mean less body roll when cornering while others may think of being able to let go of the steering wheel and the car not drift. Are you familiar with the original handling of these cars and are you experiencing a particular problem? Steve
  23. Your console looks real good in these photos, Rodney.
  24. Looks like an early 'Vette master cyl., Steve. I have one on my '56 F-100. Steve
  25. Rodney, I would not have looked either. I'm thinking someone else had bought them, put the muck on the plugs and then returned them 'cuz they mis-fired. (?) I just used some 'made for your specific vehicle' (sorta) from the local chain store auto parts place. Work okay for me but don't look so great; the lengths are never correct. Steve
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