Hans1

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Everything posted by Hans1

  1. Sludge: likely contaminants from combusting dirty air, bad gas and entrapped contaminants in block casting.
  2. I must be missing something, the spec's are confusing: 6 VDC at 20 A and 120W a 20 amp circuit should put out 1500 w easily. Perhaps it's only 2.0 amp. Also the instructions indicate the need for a Cap on a variable input from a pulsed generator. They may mean Alternator, but if using an old generator, the batt may not provide a stable reference source with the generator in operation. It may not handle ripple well. I do not know physical size of unit but in the old days I think we used a 1000 watt wire wound ceramic screw tap resistor to drop 12 to 6. Sure got hot, had to mount it away from any thing!
  3. I have several engines from 27 to 31, all were painted internally. Might also seal block to trap sand from casting process.
  4. Pictures received, do not look like pic I posted, unless not all there. My phone # is in numbers and words in the email
  5. with out seeing actual pictures of your pump and internal parts, I surmise the following: 1. vertical sliding pump piston supplies TWO levels of oil pressure and volume. 2. a check valve above point where oil is pressure fed to engine rod area and toughs. 3. check valve in lower area to stop oil from leaking back to lower pan 4. not sure of this but the flapper valve in piston head may be a releaf ( vacuum breaker ) so piston can return downward to be able to pump again. How many check valves in your system? and where ?
  6. I am confused, when I log in I see both of my entries, with pictures on the forum. Not sure why you can not see them.
  7. just emailed description and picture to rwendt will try to post again ///////////////////////// ////
  8. I enlarged the picture of the motor. Just wondering about pump posibilities, oil flow ( spray ) to rods may be a higher pressure, while flow to gage and front of eng may just be a volume ( low pressure) I sure would like to see your pump and internal parts to see if the flapper valve in piston is a low press buy pass to the gage and front of engine. Can you take pictures and post them....? Your issue has has intrigued me.
  9. does the picture look like yours? Lub description indicates an oil spray to rods and I think oil pressure thru gage, then to front of engine.
  10. Thank you all for the insight and the personal experiences, which make the information you provide readily understood. I do so appreciate the AACA site for all the dialogue, information and freely given instruction available to all who read it.
  11. I have seen a spring loaded valve built into a piston on an old dental compressor, so your comment may be correct about yours. ------------------------ I've been looking into my old books for some specific info to help, but .................. My 1918 Dykes indicates 4 & 6 engines had gear pumps. Probably not right info for your 1915
  12. your description of the pump sounds similar to the pump on a 1927 Chrysler 50. It has a third tube to supply vacuum for the vacuum tank for gas supply.
  13. All very good advice previously given! I note you did not ID the car or carburetor. Many of the previous responders, I am thinking, have brass carb bodies, if yours has a white metal "pot metal" carb, I would not pressurize it. As example, many Marvel carbs are a little better than "pot metal" but not by much. Modern gas seems to be able to erode or soak into the metal and deteriorate this type of carb. Please provide info to this Forum about your vehicle and the fuel system components you have remaining, and I feel certain the Forum can help you.
  14. just in case, buy another emblem, I hope your's is not too scarce
  15. I have 40 or 50 dole banana boxes ( big ones from costco ) full of old books. I just handed out 30 issues at my antique Boat Motor club monthly meeting.......................they loved them.......... Others I just leave at Dr's offices and at hospital waiting rooms.......... I think I will take some to Costco and give them to kids in carts........... I just can not trash or recycle them, but I CAN give them away................depression baby syndrome...I have been told....????
  16. Tariffs are in effect
  17. I have a small 1.5 amp smart charger that seemed to have difficulty in bringing up a tired battery. Used a straight 6 volt 10 amp charger, brought batt up and then small 1.5 amp job would maintain. We may not realize storage time equals discharge time.
  18. Are the listed Buyer's premiums typical of other auctions? I have recently experienced 20%, but 10% is what I often see.
  19. Are the pictured levers from a Clum Switch? Or most likely GM Ternsted switch.
  20. Thank you for finding this ! I recall it from years ago.
  21. I have it scheduled to record now, wish I had known about it. Than you all for the reviews about the show. I am tired of the stupid personal interactions on so many of the shows, I just do not watch them any more.
  22. just got in, very late, but here is another source of info https://then-now-auto.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/SW-Pumps-to-Kits.pdf
  23. well a lot of pumps are quite similar, I have found one big difference is the pump arm. You need to determine the bolt pattern and that is the first step, then work on the arm needed to reach the cam lobe. here is a link for your pump but we can't help without the bolt pattern for mounting to the motor file:///C:/Users/Hans/Downloads/show_pdf%20-%202019-03-22T160932.446.pdf