Thoffs

I was told by a Studebaker expert to use non-detergent 30W oil in my Rockne and to put about 4oz. Of Marvel Mystery oil in every tank of gas. When I restored it I took the pan and head off and power washed the engine with mineral spirits, it had already been rebuilt. I packed the oil pump with lithium grease to prime it and I got oil pressure. Runs good except the valve covers and the manifold leak. Any suggestions on repairing the leaks.

Dave I think I have an extra one of what you're looking for. I sent you an email with a picture of my engine with it mounted to the manifold. Tim Hoffman

I was told by an old Studebaker man that you should use straight 30 wt. non detergent oil in my Rockne, and he said to put about 4 oz. of Marvel Mystery oil in every tank of gas. He said if you do that you won't have any problems with that flat head six engine. Hope that helps!

I have two of them with Studebaker script on them, like new condition $25.00 plus shipping for both.

Thanks Gary for the information. I know what it costs to restore a vehicle, I have $41,000 in the restoration of my 1933 Studebaker Rockne. I would send you picture , but I cannot seem to upload pictures onto the forum.

I am looking for an M5 to restore. I would like to know if a 1/2 ton M5 frame is strong enough to pull a trailer with a 2,700 hundred pound Studebaker Rockne on it at 65 mph or if I need to go up to a one ton truck? When I find the truck I plan on a complete restoration with new suspension, new brakes and a V8 engine with at least 300 hp to pull the trailer. I look forward to hearing from truck owners, I would value your advice. Thanks in advance.

I restored my 33 Rockne Model 10; when I disassembled the rear suspension and axle I media blasted all the brake parts, used Emory cloth on the inside of the drums and used a industrial wire brush mounted on a grinder to strip the springs, and differential. All I did was prime and paint everything, then repacked the axle bearings and put everything back together. When you take the brake plates off the rear axle pay attention to which shims go on each side.

Will these work on a 1933 Rockne Model 10?

Brad, are you talking about the building in Lakewood, Ohio which is on 117th Street. My youngest son lives at the end of 117th Street in one of the big apartment buildings on Lake Erie.

I have seen two of these stone signs on a building in Lakewood, Ohio. They must have used them when they built Studebaker Dealerships many years ago. There was also one in a barn on an American packers episode recently.

There is one being offered on EBay and also one at Hemmings Motors, they both have the supercharged 289 cu.in. engine 275 hp. Both of these cars are gold with white trim and have already been restored. Just for your information and would save you a lot of work, but they are not cheap.

I used a 85-140 wt. gear lube in both my rearend differential and the free-wheeling transmission and the gears in the transmission still were grinding. I have the original Pennzoil Lubrication chart for my 1933 Studebaker Rockne and it says to use Pennzoil Lubricant 409 from a temperature of 0 to +40 degrees in Winter and 416 above 40 degrees. Does anyone know what the conversion would be from Pennzoil 409 in Winter and 416 in summer from 1933 to today's lubricants.

Also my switch is working, one of the brass contacts inside was broke so I made a new one on a lathe and repaired it. I was interested in the NOS switch as a spare, you can always use spare parts.

$35.00 is not too much if the switch works, but I sent a question to the seller and asked if the switch had continuity. I even told the seller how to check it and I didn't receive a reply so I left it go. He has had it on EBay three different times.

Looking for a brake light switch for my 1933 Rockne, it should be mounted on the frame under the drivers seat area. There was one on EBay , but the seller wanted $35.00 for it. I have bought other electrical components but I always have to rebuild them because age causes them to varnish up on the contacts.

After reading all the responses about what lube to use in antique Studebaker transmissions, I think I know why my 33 Rockne transmission gears are always grinding. I took it out today for a ride before the snow flys here in Northern Ohio and the transmission didn't hardly gring at all. So with it being 39 degrees outside the viscosity of the lube was a lot heavier therefore resulting in easier shifting. I will change the lube before spring, just need to pick the right one. I really enjoy this web site and reading about the old Studebakers, I just finished my restoration in August of this year. Merry Christmas to all you Forum readers.

Good Luck, I hope you get what you think it is worth. Studebaker Rockne lover.

Good luck to whoever buys this President Roadster, I have seen them on Hemmings fully restored for $90,000 to $120,000. There's is no profit in this one at a $65,000 buying price. I just finished restoring a 1933 Studebaker Rockne 4Dr Sedan Deluxe all numbers matching automobile and I doubt if I could sell it for the $41,000 I have in it, although I don't ever plan on selling it.

I had a new wiring harness made from Studebaker Blueprints for my 1933 Studebaker Rockne. The Company that made it for me was Larkworks, he did an excellent job and all the wiring came numbered so it was a fairly easy installation. I also had him wire it for a right rear taillight and emergency flashers. His price was decent, about $500.00. You can find him on the Internet, and if you do business with him mention my name. Tim Hoffman Also if you need more information on the Company call me @ 567-280-2951.

Ken, I have a 1933 Studebaker Rockne that I just finished restoring to original. My only wiper does not work, when the car is running I don't seem to have any vacuum. I believe that my exhaust manifold is leaking because I can smell exhaust in the cabin when driving it. With the manifold leaking would that be why I cannot get any vacuum, I have to remove it and have it ground flat. I use MMO in my fuel, about 4oz. to every tank full. That is what an old Studebaker mechanic told me to do and then I don't have to use a lead additive or put in hardened valve guides.

Go on the Internet to Classicandexotic.com, you can buy parts for King-Seely fuel gauges. Also I had Bob's Speedometer in Howell, Michigan completely rebuild my fuel/radimeter gauge for my 1933 Rockne Model 10.

Richard, what someone did on my Rockne they put the engine number on a new Rockne Motors Corporation plate and then I found the correct serial number stamped on the bottom of the right frame rail. So I would like to get the correct plate. As long as I am putting a new plate on I would like to put the correct one on if it is available from someone. Thanks for your input.

Richard, did they use the same serial plate on the 1933 even though it was made in South Bend, IN. instead of Detroit.

I am looking for both a blank Rockne Motors Serial plate for a 1933 Rockne Model 10 and also someone to make me a body tag for my Rockne. Body tag to read top line 31-W-2, bottom line 4448.