62 driver
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Posts posted by 62 driver
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That's always a good sign! I once purchased 1967 corvette 427 roadster with a wrecked front end for $950. and before I left the seller house I was offered twice the amount. I didn't sell it!
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Help please
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I have a 24" Delco-Remy Type S 12v Trumpet Horn. The number stamped on it is 946. I know a 945 and a 947 are Cadillacs. But what is a 946 from? Thanks Dave
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I had the same problem. New fuel pump 2 years ago. Last year the pin that hold the arm in backed out and no fuel. Drove the pin back in and staked it. Ran fine until last week when it just died. 2,000 miles at the most on it. Chinese crap!
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I sold mine for $250 + shipping on eBay the other day.
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Sold for $250. + shipping.
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How do you know that they are from a '63? What are the part numbers stamped on the horns?
How many brackets are included? Can you post pictures?
Jim, The 14" horn is stamped with 948. The 24" horn is stamped 949. All the bracket are there. It will be a few week till I can post photos. They have be stored indoors for the last 30 years.
Dave
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I have a set of 24" and 14" 1963 Buick Rivera trumpet horn. They work well and have the brackets. Are they rare? How much are they worth? Thanks Dave
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If you want some info go to http://www.cadillaclasalleclub.org Post the photos. Love the tow truck.
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I purchased a 1962 Cadillac to use a daily driver. I wanted to remind myself of the goal I have with the car. Dave
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This was sold to me as a 1962 Cadillac. It is not that's for sure. But what GM car is it for? Thanks
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Yes, take the center bolt out and it should come apart. Might be tight but use a rubber mallet or block of wood. Mark all parts so you may align them back up again.
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Ask,
Poway Transmission or Pro Gear one of them should do it or know where to send you. Dave
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With 4 wheels done and on the road I can report that the car runs great down the freeway at 70+. Most wire wheel restorer don't want you to know how it done. I did purchased the wheel for $50. each intending on driving them as is. I made a close inspection and found a few bent and missing spokes. All were the short spokes. Short spokes seem to be the weak link in 1954-56 Kelsey Hayes Cadillac wire wheels. I had some extra short spoke and tried to do a replacement of the bad spokes. You can not replace the short spokes unless you remove all the spokes as they lock in place. It was not possible to replace just one spoke alone. I then started asking around on how to relace the wheel once I replaced the bad short spoke. I decided to make jig after trying to relace one with out a jig. With the jig I was able to lace the wheel and be close to the .065 max limits. I thought about the weak link of the short steel spokes and that my steel spokes had some rust. I had custom polished stainless spokes made from Dayton Wheels at $2.00 each. New chrome steel nipple $1.25. Buchanans Spoke & Rim bid $3.25 for SS spokes and $1.75 per nipple. When I received the SS spokes, the head had a (
stamped in it. I am going to assume that Dayton Wheels had Buchanans make them for me and passed on their price + profits. Chroming the old steel spoke is about $3.00 each. I have a 0 offset and all 4 spokes in a series were of difference size in lengths. I found the best rim with spoke lengths and sent the 4 difference sizes to Dayton for samples to match the length. I use Kroil oil to unloosen the spoke from the nipples. I was able to unloosen half the nipples and the rest I had to cut with a grinder. Once apart it is very important to inspect the spoke hole's in the center hub before chroming. If the rim had been ran with loose spoke it will elongate the hole and the spoke head will come right thru. After spending the money on the spokes and nipples I wanted to Crome the inter and outer hubs. The first place wanted $250 per wheel and the second wanted $275 per wheel. Living in SoCal I found Linco (714) 635-2800 that wanted $100 per wheel. Rolled the dice and they did a outstanding job. I saw lot of car and motor cycle parts they were doing. I had them remove the dents and polish my center stainless steel caps as well. They turned out new looking. So new someone ask me if they were repops. The best article I read was from SPOKE WHEEL BUILDING & TRUING by Mark Barnes. It was straight forward and understandable. To assemble the wheel I use copper anti seizing compound. Being careful to put the right length of spoke in the right hole. Tighten them finger tight in the jig. I used a dial indicator as I made adjustment to the spokes per the above article. Bringing them under .025. Not wanting to chase my tail I am happy with that. The DOT set max of .045 for radial runout and lateral runout on new car wheels. The DOT sets a max .065 for radial and lateral runout for repaired wheels. The 1962 Cadillac Shop Manual (page 4-10) set .050 max for radial runout and .045 for lateral runout. Now to tighten them up follow the above article on how tighten without changing the runout. A spoke wrench is a must. Buchanan's sells spokes wrenches (.297). Then you must grind it to fit the nipples. The nipples are odd sizes. Are far as torquing them, I have had a few difference in value. One company said 50-60 INCH pounds. The other said 80-90 INCH pounds. And another just said make them tight. One wheel smith said I should hit the nipple with a hammer as I tighten them up to be sure they are seated. He said doing that you will not need to adjust them after running them the first 100 miles as some recommend. I used a inch pounds torque wrench to get a feel of 70 inch pounds. I then guested with the spoke wrench. After all tighten is done you need to seal all nipples with 100% silicone on the inside of outer rim. Once the silicone is dry, take plumber's tape and wrap the inside twice. You can find plumber's tape at Home Depot. It is 2" wide and 1/8" thick of black rubber. Next would be to mount tires with tubes. Thanks for all the kind words as I reported on this project.-
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It's been a year when I came up with the idea of 40 spokes on my 62. I have mastered the truing of these rim's. Just took the car out with the new setup and did 75 MPH and as smooth as glass. Now off the the Friday night car show. I will write up a closing statement next week but for now I am on to new things!
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I am still working on the wheels! Have 5 back together but still need to be torqued. Have 3 more do to finish the 2 sets.
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Yea, what I will do if I have to is take a nut and bolt the same size of my spoke and using my torque wrench and socket. I will set is at 80 inch pounds torque and then use my wrench to check the value and call that 80.
stamped in it. I am going to assume that Dayton Wheels had Buchanans make them for me and passed on their price + profits. Chroming the old steel spoke is about $3.00 each. I have a 0 offset and all 4 spokes in a series were of difference size in lengths. I found the best rim with spoke lengths and sent the 4 difference sizes to Dayton for samples to match the length. I use Kroil oil to unloosen the spoke from the nipples. I was able to unloosen half the nipples and the rest I had to cut with a grinder. Once apart it is very important to inspect the spoke hole's in the center hub before chroming. If the rim had been ran with loose spoke it will elongate the hole and the spoke head will come right thru. After spending the money on the spokes and nipples I wanted to Crome the inter and outer hubs. The first place wanted $250 per wheel and the second wanted $275 per wheel. Living in SoCal I found Linco (714) 635-2800 that wanted $100 per wheel. Rolled the dice and they did a outstanding job. I saw lot of car and motor cycle parts they were doing. I had them remove the dents and polish my center stainless steel caps as well. They turned out new looking. So new someone ask me if they were repops. The best article I read was from SPOKE WHEEL BUILDING & TRUING by Mark Barnes. It was straight forward and understandable. To assemble the wheel I use copper anti seizing compound. Being careful to put the right length of spoke in the right hole. Tighten them finger tight in the jig. I used a dial indicator as I made adjustment to the spokes per the above article. Bringing them under .025. Not wanting to chase my tail I am happy with that. The DOT set max of .045 for radial runout and lateral runout on new car wheels. The DOT sets a max .065 for radial and lateral runout for repaired wheels. The 1962 Cadillac Shop Manual (page 4-10) set .050 max for radial runout and .045 for lateral runout. Now to tighten them up follow the above article on how tighten without changing the runout. A spoke wrench is a must. Buchanan's sells spokes wrenches (.297). Then you must grind it to fit the nipples. The nipples are odd sizes. Are far as torquing them, I have had a few difference in value. One company said 50-60 INCH pounds. The other said 80-90 INCH pounds. And another just said make them tight. One wheel smith said I should hit the nipple with a hammer as I tighten them up to be sure they are seated. He said doing that you will not need to adjust them after running them the first 100 miles as some recommend. I used a inch pounds torque wrench to get a feel of 70 inch pounds. I then guested with the spoke wrench. After all tighten is done you need to seal all nipples with 100% silicone on the inside of outer rim. Once the silicone is dry, take plumber's tape and wrap the inside twice. You can find plumber's tape at Home Depot. It is 2" wide and 1/8" thick of black rubber. Next would be to mount tires with tubes. Thanks for all the kind words as I reported on this project.
WTB 1954 1955 Cadillac Coupe or Convertible interior
in Automobiles and Parts - Buy/Sell
Posted
Try asking here. http://midcenturycadillacs.com/index.php