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Doug Burton

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Everything posted by Doug Burton

  1. Like some others in this thread, my love affair with Buick's started long before I was allowed to drive. From the time I can remember to the time I left the nest in 1972, my father always drove a Buick. So the first car I bought after I got married was a '63 LeSabre, which didn't look like much, but it ran fine and I later traded it in on the 2nd favorite Buick I ever owned, a 1965 Electra 225. Although I had others over the year, I never got the chance to buy my favorite one until about 5 years ago and it's the one I now own. It will probably be with me until I leave this earth and I hope it goes to someone who loves it as much as I do.
  2. Got in a little late on this thread, but you are correct about 1961 being the last year for the 364. 401 was standard starting in '62. The Dynaflow in my '61 has been perfect since I've owned it. No leaks,no slip, it just works, but if it ever does go out I will probably to the THM 400 swap.
  3. Yeah I only got 64%. Was pretty good on the GM and Fords, but lousy on everything else. Got all the Buick's and Chevy's right!
  4. Hadn't planned on taking the windshield out, just wanted the trim off so I could sand around the edges. I've been told on the V8 Buick forum that it possibly has to be removed from the inside as there are nuts which hold it on. I will check that out tomorrow. Thanks!
  5. Hey everyone. I'm trying to figure out how to remove the trim from around my windshield. Either the windshield has been replaced and non-original trim was used or I don' t know what, but it is not like what should be there according to the manual. I bought one of those hook tools to spread the clips which I thought was there, but this setup has rubber under the stainless trim. I made a short video to show what I'm talking about: If you have any idea on how to remove this type of trim, please let me know. Thanks!
  6. Had a '68 LTD wagon with those same seats. I remember riding around with all the kiddos back there. Made conversation up front much easier.
  7. Have to agree. Nice clean looking forum. I thought the down time message was to the point and entertaining also. Good job.
  8. No worries. I want to retain the ability to have the car be completely stock should I ever desire it. That is why I want to mount the gauges in the console.
  9. Thanks for the input John, I'm really not much on fabricating steel or metal of most any kind. I don't mind working with wood and plastic though. I will give some thought to the placement, but the primary reason I chose the transmission hump was to keep a more clean look to it. The area you mention is a good place as far as nothing else being there, but as the e-brake is there, it would mean attaching it to the dash and I really want to avoid that.
  10. Okay, after some more thought on the subject, I may try to build my own custom console out of this stuff: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-Medium-Density-Fiberboard-Common-1-4-in-x-2-ft-x-4-ft-Actual-0-216-in-x-23-75-in-x-47-75-in-1508104/202089069?MERCH=REC-_-PIPHorizontal1_rr-_-202089064-_-202089069-_-N I've seen some projects on YouTube and I think it would be much easier and cheaper in the long run. Even if I am able to open the holes in that pod, it won't leave much, if any, place for the gauge brackets to secure the gauges to the pod. The other alternative would be smaller gauges, but I really like the size of the ones I bought. I would like to design the console so that the gauges are easy to view and install. Of course a couple of cup holders are mandatory these days and the tray for loose items would also be nice. The MDF can be painted to match the interior and construction with wood glue and some 2x2 braces should be sufficient. Should be easy enough to find some metal 'L' brackets to secure it to the floor. Only part that concerns me there is the rear heat channel/tunnel which runs on the top of the transmission hump, but I should be able to design it wide enough to avoid that area. Again, any comments or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!
  11. Thanks Dan, some very good info there. I will try to find the correct tool for that job as I prefer not to lose my idiot lights. Do you know the correct size for the 'T' on the oil line hookup? I suppose it will be apparent once I remove the current sender. I got the holder/pod in the mail yesterday. A quick test fit revealed that the larger gauges will fit, but it will take much more effort than I originally thought. I haven't tried to find a pod large enough for the bigger gauges, but I have a feeling from those items I did see that it may be much more expensive. That leads me to believe that I will be putting forth the effort to make them fit in the pod I have. I don't have a lot of money to invest, but I do have time, so that is the way I will probably go.
  12. Got the gauges in the mail yesterday, the holder/pod should be here by Thursday and I can do some test fits. Gauges look very nice and all the pieces seem to be there. Hope to get them in the car very soon if I can figure out how to do the water temp probe.
  13. Thanks. Yep, I was living on the west side then myself. I sprayed lawns for Greenlon around that time. Western Hills, Price Hill, west side, that was my territory. I was driving my '66 Special around that time. Solid black with white interior, my CB handle was the midnight special. LOL Those were the days. Checked some of your links, good stuff. I'm using a heater core from a '62 Olds 88 in my Buick. Perfect fit and does away with the heater valve inside the car, which is much better in my opinion.
  14. Six of one, half dozen of the other. Some people call them sending units, some call it a probe I suppose. It serves the same purpose no matter what you call it, sending info (voltage), to the gauge to make the needle move up or down depending on the water temperature. The one for the lights does almost exactly the same thing (it has a probe on it as well), but obviously has much less of a range as it only indicates COLD, NORMAL, or HOT. And when I recently ordered one from Rock Auto to replace the one which no longer worked, the part was called a Temperature Sender/Sensor. I guess my point to all of this is, maybe it just depends on when and where you started learning about cars and/or repairing them, etc. For me, I grew up in and around Cincinnati, OH when I started working on vehicles in the late 60's and that is what we called them. It's my hope that most people on this forum knew what I was referring to, but please accept my apologies if I offended your sensibilities by referring to it improperly.
  15. Look closely at the pictures. I believe the sending unit can be seen sticking up just behind the gauge cluster. I could be wrong though. The guy did tell me the fittings are for standard threads and not metric. That's a good thing. I did order both the gauges and the plastic pod/gauge holder. They are 52mm, which is about 2 1/16 inch. I will see just how difficult it will be to fit the larger gauges, but I don't anticipate a lot of problems. I will report back with my progress when I do it.
  16. Good story Bernie. I just know the one time a gauge would have helped me I didn't have one and since then if I go long distance, I like to have them. It was an old 3/4 ton Chevy pickup and I was headed north on I-71 towards Cleveland. I had bought a console stereo on eBay and was going to get it. I was going along just fine and then the truck began to lose power. It was a bright sunny day and even though the idiot lights were big as any I've seen, they were not very bright when lit. I did a quick scan and sure enough the TEMP light was lit. I pulled to the side of the expressway and popped the hood. Broken fan belt. Simple enough. I called 911 and soon a state trooper arrived. He took me to the nearest town with an Autozone and I bought the belt. I had tools and quickly installed it. Thanked the trooper and thought all was well. Nope. I did manage to limp the truck back to that town, but either warped the heads or lost the head gasket. Called my son, who was many, many miles away and he said he would bring the trailer. I got a room for the night at the local motel and settled in. By the time he and his wife arrived, it was way too late to start back home, so the next morning we loaded up the old truck and left it there on the trailer while we got the stereo. Lesson learned and I try to have at least a water temp gauge in any older vehicles I drive long distance. To each his, or her, own, but for me, I like the gauges. Thanks much for your input.
  17. I will look for a better spot but I'm not really certain there is one. My main concern is monitoring the water temp and I will give priority to the sending unit for the gauge. I'm hopeful I can find a place for the other one as well. Thanks for the comments.
  18. Yeah I like the idea of the larger gauges and the colors are perfect too. I think that gauge pod is thin enough to round out a bit for the larger gauges, but I will probably try to find one which is a better fit. I drove a mail route for nearly 20 years, so I'm very used to seeing little or no oil pressure indicated on the gauge. As long as it goes back up once you are no longer stopped, it should be fine. The off-center doesn't really bother me much. The console will be mounted and I plan to fab the area where I mount the pod so that nothing will be able to slide up under the gauges. Not that I'm worried about it shorting out wire or something like that as I plan to put a bottom on the pod so the gauges are fully enclosed. Much better for lighting purposes. I mainly want the area under there inaccessible so I'm not constantly trying to reach something which slid up under there. My main concern is the water temperature. I have had some problems in the past and I like to keep an eye on that. I just decided to include all three for aesthetic purposes. Of course in never hurts to have the others just in case. :cool: Thanks much for your thoughts.
  19. I'm going to install a triple set of gauges in my '61 Buick. I would like to retain the functionality of my current dash idiot lights. This is the set of gauges I am considering: http://www.ebay.com/itm/UNIVERSAL-2-5-8-OIL-PRESSURE-WATER-VOLTAGE-VOLT-TRIPLE-GAUGE-SET-GAUGES-5753-/331111860589?hash=item4d17ce096d&vxp=mtr Comments welcome on my choice. I know from past experiences (40 years ago), the probe for the water temp sending unit on these is rather long, so I don't think I "Y" type adapter/fitting would work. I've thought about a "T" type, which might work better. Thoughts? Similarly, the oil pressure fitting will need to be changed as well. I don't think the ammeter should be any problem. Once I get the sending units all installed, I will mount the gauges on top of my dash, about where the clock would normally sit. My dash pad is off so it should be the perfect place for now. I can simply mount the holder upside down and use the large hole in the dash to route the wires. At one time I thought about using 3 clock pods and mount the gauges atop the dash pad once it's done, but I think that might be a little more ambitious than I am, so I plan to use a center type console like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/311171457897?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT and mount a gauge pod like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Triple-Three-Auto-Car-Gauge-Meter-Pod-Holder-Cup-Mount-2-52mm-Black-TA-/291348737032?hash=item43d5bcec08&vxp=mtr over the storage tray area on the back part of the console. That will keep them visible and not attached to the under side of the dash. It's just my opinion, but gauges installed under the dash look a bit tacky to me. It's fine if you like it, but I don't. Besides, I don't like putting holes in my pristine dash. Comments on my ideas are welcome and appreciated. I'm mainly interested in the best way to hook up the sending units to retain my idiot lights. I worked hard to get the green COLD light working and I don't want that work to go to waste. :eek:
  20. It is probably difficult for some on this forum to understand how anyone could do things on the cheap like this, but I know well of what you speak. I am taking this same approach with my '61 and I know the results will never be show quality, but then that is not what I am after. I just want to be able to drive a piece of history around and be proud in the fact that I did most of the work myself. Also the '65 model big Buick's were among the most unique ones ever made IMO. With the excellent styling and single year instrument cluster design, they stand apart in these respects. If I ever get my '61 done, that is probably the next Buick I will be looking for. I do have a hankering to do an old Ford first though, just to be different. LOL
  21. I worked across the street from the Norwood, OH GM assembly plant for awhile. They made the Apollos there. I remember seeing one coming off the truck as it was being loaded. Always wondered what they did with those, whether they just took them back inside and fixed them or turned them into scrap. As I recall, the hatchbacks were one of the models they made at that plant.
  22. I don't presently own either car, but I essentially have driven both back in the day. I owned a '65 Electra 225 with the 401 and my parents bought a new '69 LeSabre 4 door with a 350 back in 1969. The Electra would smoke the tires, but the LeSabre would just go. I remember racing my then wife at a stoplight while I was driving my '63 Impala SS with a 327. She was in the deuce and a quarter and when the light turned green she floored it. The big beast roared, but just spun the tires while the little 327 Chevy just went. I think the comparison might go something like that. Not quite as dramatic as the weight difference between the Wildcat and LeSabre is not as great, but still the same outcome I think. SO, I suppose it boils down to driving skills. If you can keep your foot out of it until you get going a bit, you stand a much better chance of winning that race. JMHO, but it was fun to remember...
  23. Wow, thought I owned a few. My meager list is in my sig. The '61 is the only one I own now.
  24. That's funny, it was correct when I posted it. Guess I will have to find another one. Like I said, it's getting harder to find this stuff! Best I can find is an eBay seller selling a lot of 6: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Master-PW14-PermaWeld-Cold-Bonding-Compound-Lot-of-6-Cards-free-shipping-/151131906217
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