Doug Burton

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About Doug Burton

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  • Birthday 12/19/1951
  1. Like some others in this thread, my love affair with Buick's started long before I was allowed to drive. From the time I can remember to the time I left the nest in 1972, my father always drove a Buick. So the first car I bought after I got married was a '63 LeSabre, which didn't look like much, but it ran fine and I later traded it in on the 2nd favorite Buick I ever owned, a 1965 Electra 225. Although I had others over the year, I never got the chance to buy my favorite one until about 5 years ago and it's the one I now own. It will probably be with me until I leave this earth and I hope it goes to someone who loves it as much as I do.
  2. Got in a little late on this thread, but you are correct about 1961 being the last year for the 364. 401 was standard starting in '62. The Dynaflow in my '61 has been perfect since I've owned it. No leaks,no slip, it just works, but if it ever does go out I will probably to the THM 400 swap.
  3. Yeah I only got 64%. Was pretty good on the GM and Fords, but lousy on everything else. Got all the Buick's and Chevy's right!
  4. Hadn't planned on taking the windshield out, just wanted the trim off so I could sand around the edges. I've been told on the V8 Buick forum that it possibly has to be removed from the inside as there are nuts which hold it on. I will check that out tomorrow. Thanks!
  5. Hey everyone. I'm trying to figure out how to remove the trim from around my windshield. Either the windshield has been replaced and non-original trim was used or I don' t know what, but it is not like what should be there according to the manual. I bought one of those hook tools to spread the clips which I thought was there, but this setup has rubber under the stainless trim. I made a short video to show what I'm talking about: If you have any idea on how to remove this type of trim, please let me know. Thanks!
  6. Had a '68 LTD wagon with those same seats. I remember riding around with all the kiddos back there. Made conversation up front much easier.
  7. Have to agree. Nice clean looking forum. I thought the down time message was to the point and entertaining also. Good job.
  8. No worries. I want to retain the ability to have the car be completely stock should I ever desire it. That is why I want to mount the gauges in the console.
  9. Thanks for the input John, I'm really not much on fabricating steel or metal of most any kind. I don't mind working with wood and plastic though. I will give some thought to the placement, but the primary reason I chose the transmission hump was to keep a more clean look to it. The area you mention is a good place as far as nothing else being there, but as the e-brake is there, it would mean attaching it to the dash and I really want to avoid that.
  10. Okay, after some more thought on the subject, I may try to build my own custom console out of this stuff: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-Medium-Density-Fiberboard-Common-1-4-in-x-2-ft-x-4-ft-Actual-0-216-in-x-23-75-in-x-47-75-in-1508104/202089069?MERCH=REC-_-PIPHorizontal1_rr-_-202089064-_-202089069-_-N I've seen some projects on YouTube and I think it would be much easier and cheaper in the long run. Even if I am able to open the holes in that pod, it won't leave much, if any, place for the gauge brackets to secure the gauges to the pod. The other alternative would be smaller gauges, but I really like the size of the ones I bought. I would like to design the console so that the gauges are easy to view and install. Of course a couple of cup holders are mandatory these days and the tray for loose items would also be nice. The MDF can be painted to match the interior and construction with wood glue and some 2x2 braces should be sufficient. Should be easy enough to find some metal 'L' brackets to secure it to the floor. Only part that concerns me there is the rear heat channel/tunnel which runs on the top of the transmission hump, but I should be able to design it wide enough to avoid that area. Again, any comments or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!
  11. Thanks Dan, some very good info there. I will try to find the correct tool for that job as I prefer not to lose my idiot lights. Do you know the correct size for the 'T' on the oil line hookup? I suppose it will be apparent once I remove the current sender. I got the holder/pod in the mail yesterday. A quick test fit revealed that the larger gauges will fit, but it will take much more effort than I originally thought. I haven't tried to find a pod large enough for the bigger gauges, but I have a feeling from those items I did see that it may be much more expensive. That leads me to believe that I will be putting forth the effort to make them fit in the pod I have. I don't have a lot of money to invest, but I do have time, so that is the way I will probably go.
  12. Got the gauges in the mail yesterday, the holder/pod should be here by Thursday and I can do some test fits. Gauges look very nice and all the pieces seem to be there. Hope to get them in the car very soon if I can figure out how to do the water temp probe.
  13. Thanks. Yep, I was living on the west side then myself. I sprayed lawns for Greenlon around that time. Western Hills, Price Hill, west side, that was my territory. I was driving my '66 Special around that time. Solid black with white interior, my CB handle was the midnight special. LOL Those were the days. Checked some of your links, good stuff. I'm using a heater core from a '62 Olds 88 in my Buick. Perfect fit and does away with the heater valve inside the car, which is much better in my opinion.
  14. Six of one, half dozen of the other. Some people call them sending units, some call it a probe I suppose. It serves the same purpose no matter what you call it, sending info (voltage), to the gauge to make the needle move up or down depending on the water temperature. The one for the lights does almost exactly the same thing (it has a probe on it as well), but obviously has much less of a range as it only indicates COLD, NORMAL, or HOT. And when I recently ordered one from Rock Auto to replace the one which no longer worked, the part was called a Temperature Sender/Sensor. I guess my point to all of this is, maybe it just depends on when and where you started learning about cars and/or repairing them, etc. For me, I grew up in and around Cincinnati, OH when I started working on vehicles in the late 60's and that is what we called them. It's my hope that most people on this forum knew what I was referring to, but please accept my apologies if I offended your sensibilities by referring to it improperly.