buick1956

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About buick1956

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    Junior Member
  • Birthday 04/15/1950

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    Been working on cars since 14, I like all stock, or Hot Rods
  1. 1910_Anon needs to visit the woods and hug a few trees to relax!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  2. Dave@Moon, Note I did not mention putting in my tank!!! Again it is not bottles, but ozs. I Do not have 11:1 compression becasue of the new gas, I run 10:1. All of the comments on lead for valves is true, it is the system lubrication that is important. High octane fuel burns slower, so adding Marvel oil, Diesel fuel all slow down the burn rate, thus increasing the octane from the chamber explosion point of view. Problem with Rochester Fuel injection is the spider that at idle absorbs heat, creating what we used to call vapor lock. The pressure at idle is around .5 to 1 psi. Also, the 6 oz of fuel in the bowl and the fuel in the line to the injection from the pump are also absorbing the heat, so it takes a lot of fuel to get the perculation problem to go away. The only reason I mention the injection (Buick did not have mechanical fuel injection in the 50's-60's) is that lead substitute has other advantages of lubrication in the fuel system and the old injection system is a good place to evaluate different approaches. Bruce
  3. Willie, First it is to early to delcare victory on the oil leak. I have the FelPo seal number and will post it with how and what I did during the installation. That will come in a week or two when I feel comfortable about the seal. I know you understand about declaring victory to soon. I have gone to the junk yard and have the parts to fix the snap end. I also located a used replacement that will take a week to get here, thank you Doug. So I will be fixing my current one so I can drive the car.. The fix, All GM and other manual and automatic trans front wheel drive cars use cable(s) that snap onto a ball stud on the shifter. The plastic end is molded to a steel rod that is crimped to the cable. The picture is of a GM floor shifter that is easy to remove. Cut the rod end as far away from the plastic so when you weld it the plastic keeps cool. The snap area has an "O" ring inside for vibration. Now, this joint has been used for many many years, the manual trans ends last for many cycles under the hood so the joint is well tested. Remove the pin from the shifter of trans lever and weld to the Buick bracket (Iwill measure the ball dia, if the same then no need to change ball stud). Then install. If my pic below or expaination above is not clear please ask for clearification. Bruce
  4. Octane Supreme's name has changed, Command 130 has a new name too. It is available for off road use. I own a '61 fuelie that needs lead or anti-perculation fuel. The spider gets warm and perculates the fuel casuing very poor idle conditions. Off Idle is OK. Also, all conversation is on valves, do not forget that the carb used lead for lubrication. Where this eco based crap turns carb floats, fuel pumps and likes to junk. I found a gas station that sells non ethinol gas, add lead substitute and a little marvel, idle problem improved greatly. For those who remember Rochester Injection it was touchy even with old gas. Valves are not a problem ETHINOL and today crap eco gas is not good for MPG and older cars.
  5. Drove car today for first time and each stop the oil dripping was less. It has been sitting now for several hours and no drips!!! Now for some more help . . . while driving home the rod from the accelerator pedal to the first ball jount fell off. Seams that someone used two wires and cemented them to lock the rod to the ball stud. Does anyone know where I can get the spring clip that retains the rod to the ball stud, or where I can get the rod from a junk yard? It is the end on the left of the picture. Thanks, and it looks like the oil drip was solved by re-screening the valley pan and removing the stupid plug in the road draft tube. Bruce
  6. Old-Tank, Thank you for your help and advice, I am a Chevy person since I was 15, so never owning a Buick Nail Head is all new to me. Today I pulled the draft tube to paint it and make sure it had a good fit to the valley pan. What I found was a real shocker. Some dumb SOB put a wood plug in the draft tube and added a PCV valve. No wonder when I drove down the road pressure built up. I have attached pics of the plug . . . This one is for stupidity of the century award! Will drive tomorrow to check for leaks. Thank you again, Bruce:cool:
  7. Old-Tank, I did as the video indicated and purchased and expanded aluminum mesh from a range hood filter, cut it to look like the origonal, then spot welded in. My complete gasket set came in today, i will look for a gasket in the kit. I think I will set up the flat plate in the mill and mill it so it is flat. Thanks, Bruce
  8. Old Tank are you rested? Two items: one, I thought you would like to see the oil trap in the valley cover. Second, What is the flat plate bolted to the underside of the intake for. I looked at the shop manual and it indicated it retained heat, but the pic did not indicate a flat plate. The rough edges that look like it was cut using a torch, is really a person that loves to apply RTV and is to lazy to wipe off the excess. Thanks, Bruce
  9. Does it have tredle vac power brakes?
  10. Can you send me a private message on where to purchase, the only spot I have found is the bidding place. Nice picture, I like the old look!! Thanks, Bruce
  11. Take a nap, I will us the UV tester and die after cleaning valley cover. Can not assemble until gasket set arrives.
  12. Thank you very much for the comments. I have attached photos of the rear main seal that I took out, side shot with wire cover off to show dry area, it that is where you indicated a head leak could happen. The seal that I first took out was clocked about at the 8 o'clock position. The mushroomed seal was in the top, but I think it was turning, as I pused the top out with my finger and then a plastic punch. The one thing that buggs me is the oil on the heat riser just under the dip stick . . . the dip stick problem has been corrected. I tend to like to change one thing at a time, my labor is cheap! let me know your thoughts on the below plan. 1. Take your suggestion and clean valley pan prior to re-assembly, then test drive car. If oil leak is present then, 2. Remove oil filter to block adapter, install new gasket, test drive car. If oil leak is present then, 3. Check for oil around oil filter canister (to date when I check that area it is fairly dry). If oil leak is present then, 4. Change to spin on oil filter. If oil leak is present then, 5. Change rope oil seal, which more than lilely I should have done first. Sound like a good plan? If you think I should just go to #5 let me know. Thank you, Bruce
  13. Question, e-bay has an adapter (3 pieces) to convert to screw on filter, this would eliminate oil filter leakage. Do you think i should purchase it. $60 for it. I have spent more in gaskets than that so far! Bruce
  14. Old-Tank, I forgot to tell you that blow-by is minimal. Bruce
  15. Old-Tank, I removed the valley cover and had no problem with air moving in or out of the road draft tube (used mouth method). I have attached pics of the valley cover and inside valley area. Engine is extremely clean. Any ideas on what is next? i will check the actual road tube, but it is unlikely that is clogged. Suggestions appreciated. Bruce