TexasJohn55
-
Posts
1,252 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by TexasJohn55
-
-
Thanks guys but I need a better in depth understanding of it all before I could do an article. I'm adverse to putting out false or incorrect information that could mislead others. I sometimes try to help when I myself don't have a clear understanding of what I speak. I will consider the idea, just not right now. John
-
Mike, having rebuilt one unit does not qualify me as an expert, just trying to help others while it is fresh in my mind. ( I'm afraid that won't last long because I couldn't remember how to remove a dash cap from the last time I did it!!) John
-
Joe, when testing the unit while removed from lid, listen for vacuum leaks from unit, if you find it coming from the top of pump housing at the reed pin, lightly push it down and see if it stops leaking. That is one way of checking the integrity of the little rubber washer under the pin head. It will leak when piston hits full stroke but should not leak while piston is traveling up under vacuum. John
-
Kad36 made some very good points. If any member knows of a comprehensive rebuild article on these vacuum pump, please post it for all of us. It would save authoring another piece on the issue. TexasJohn
-
Joe, I forgot to mention a couple things. The water pickup on the bottom has a light check valve in it, blow back and forth thru it to be sure it seats when you suck on the pipe and opens when you blow into it. If your main return spring is broken, try a hardware store for a replacement. It is a 7/8" diam. x .080" wire x appx 5" long, If you can find a comparable spring rate.. I picked up a pack at Home Depot but not exactly what I wanted, a little too heavy spring but worked in a pinch. A spring as short as 4 1/4" should work. Also, the pump bodies have timing arrows, match them up on assembly, (but it will only go one way). John
-
You are the future of this country young man, take that responsibilty soberly and always remember to place what's good for the country above what might be good for you and you will do fine.
-
Joe,.........It really is easier to test on the car. First, disconnect vac hose at washer bottle and hook a vacuum guage directly to it, check vacuum when button is held down, that will show you if switch is erratic. My vacuum is weak at 15"hg idling. I have 20" from the Y connector when wiper motor hose is disconnected and dead ended into guage. Reconnect vacuum hose and remove water hose. Push and hold button appx 4-5 seconds and release. If it doesn't start squirting water after 5 or 6 cycles, it never will. Remove lid, remove the nut and pump from lid. Remove side hose and spring clip from middle of pump body. Make note of all parts and position. Mine had a broken spring. Clean up all parts and if still pliable, re-assemble in reverse order with light silicone grease or spray. That reed valve at top of vacuum chamber shuts off vacuum when pump hits full stroke and holds it there. Test it to see if it leaks vacuum when applied during piston travel, it should not leak until piston reaches top of stroke and then chatter. Mine leaked so I sealed the pump to the gasket surface with new gasket I made. You may need to use an 8" fine flat file to smooth the casting ridges so that you have a circular seal pattern with 4 radial lines to center fitting. Use a fender washer on top to increase clamping surface area, smear a little plumbers putty or caulk under the washer and tighten nut with fitting aligned same direction as other fitting.If the reed assembly does not leak, the top of the pump should have a vent path, I am not sure if it is critical. Check the water side check valve by alternately blowing and sucking of the pickup tube, it must backseat to hold water in the chamber. Re-attach hose and put back in jar. Test it on the car again. If it works, connect water hose and watch for leaks under the dash onto glove box or floor. I made a new gasket for my lid. If you use rubberized cork, you may get a better seal on pump than paper gasket.
-
Thanks Willie, sorry for the delay, had to mow the grass you know. Behold, signature below,
-
Hey Mike M. Just got mine working and they didn't need no stinkin' primin'! Of couse they did pee in the floor until I put on new hoses. John
-
You have a good frame and front end, it isn't that hard is it. Just getting a couple A frame swing sets and hoists huh? We are here to butt in anytime.
I like the idea of keeping it original, if not keep all the old parts. TexasJohn -
Well, I can get two streams to hit the windshield for a 3-4 second burst. It isn't like electric but it may suffice for now unless I hit some of them "Dang big old Texas bugs" ! Can you get parts for the washer pump and wiper motors? John
-
Mike, Thanks buddy, when I went to look, I thought to try bumping straight up on each corner with the heel of my hand and "Voila!" it's off now. Thank you, thank you, thank you! John
-
Remind me how to remove dash cap. I have been there but can't seem to remember all the details. I have already removed trim pieces, sheet metal screws from underneath lip and 3/8 head screws on top by the defroster ducts, but it won't budge. I thought I would just stop right there and call for help. My windshield washer is squirting into the right front floorboard and I need to replace a hose or put it back on. Thanks, John
-
Hey Joe, don't run off. If you just replaced your washer hoses, new hoses to squirter nozzles also? John
-
Ah Yes! Thank you. TexasJohn
-
ReQuote of post #4, I like that, especially the first statement about the "truth table stuff". TJ55
-
Bravo Andy! You had it figured right all along, why did you need us to muddy the waters? TexasJohn
-
Ditto!
-
Leif, that copper plumbing is a bit of engineering genius! Did you have to fabricate an additional support for the reservoir to take side load off the rubber grommets? John
-
Bill, 1) I am baffled that it drives better with the vacuum advance plugged. I could understand if wide open throttle but normal driveability should have suffered. 2) I would be irate with that engine builder if mine,(glad it's not). He should have given you the courtesy of checking out the pulsing and low vacuum and rear seal leak himself while in the car. How can he diagnose whats wrong if you take the engine to him not runnable unless he has an engine dyno. What can he do, tear it down and miss the problem again? Man that burns my _ _ _! Sorry for the rant.......no I'm not. I hate seeing someone get blown off like that! TexasJohn
-
Generic response: What changes did you make on adjustments internally? Be sure idle quality responds when you turn each idle screw in to seat and back out, if not, blow some compressed air thru the screw hole (engine shut down). Butterfly idle position internally set by idle screw has an effect on proper "tip in" fueling also. Try readjusting idle mixture screws idividually for smoothest idle, if no better, turn both 1/4 turn in first then out to assess the effect. .....Don't discount base timing and advance function as they can cause same issues. Carb settings before rebuild may have been masking advance issues. Again, just generic, I am not a Stromberg expert.(not sure I even spelled it right) TJ55
-
Sorry Chris, I misinterpreted your statement, it is precisely correct because this leak at the choke WILL affect the running both cold and hot, mixture will be off depending on how it was adjusted. TJ55More importatantly, a vacuum leak will cause issues running cold or hot. -
Chris, just my philosophical point of view..........I have learned alot in life from those who cared enough to correct me when I was wrong, mistaken or mislead. I view correction as another opportunity to learn something. If not corrected, I am doomed to stumble along as before or to repeat my same mistakes. I appreciate correction as it benefits me. TexasJohn
-
Why Chris, you are correct about vacuum leaks just not that leak. Forums are about opinions, don't take it personal. TJ55
I like the idea of keeping it original, if not keep all the old parts. TexasJohn
What's with the weak hood springs in '55? Mine won't stay open.
in Buick - Post War
Posted