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TexasJohn55

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    1955 Buick transmission problems.

    in Buick - Post War

    Posted · Edited by TexasJohn55 (see edit history)

    You guys are dreaming! I cranked up a junker that had set in a field for 35 years. after idling a few minutes I shifted it and all gears pulled. I then put that tranny in my car and it worked great.   To think you can get that one to function correctly without work is a pipe dream.

       Pressure checks would be in order to find failure but doubt they would be useful from the symptoms described.

    Electric problem / burned alternator Riviera 67

    in Buick Riviera

    Posted

    2 minutes ago, Mister Fab said:

    I am sure the alternator is not whistling.

    It only whistles when I plug the regulator back, it looks that it acts like a electric motor going in opposition to the engine rotation, that's why the belt whistles.

     

    Last week, the day my previous alternator burned, I heard whistling when I took the car out of the garage. I thought the belt was loose so I tightened it  before my ride, and five minutes later, the alternator burned with smoke and flames

    Long shot,  have you reversed polarity of battery?

    Cooling Service / Evaporust Question

    in Buick - Pre War

    Posted

    On 6/26/2021 at 3:41 PM, Victor W said:

    Thanks for the replies. To be clear, I plan to remove the radiator and at minimum back flush, and more than likely have it rodded out. 

     

    My big question was (and I wasn't as clear as I should have been)should I knock out the frost plugs and scrape the water jacket clean first, then let evaporust do its thing, or run the Evaporust first, then manually clean the water jacket? 

    That is a no brainer.  If my engine was representative, the rear plug was completely covered with rust and scale, the next forward plug was about 1/2 covered.  No amount of flushing and Evaporust will remove that much buildup. Removing the plugs and digging out the buildup is a good start to restore the system before treating with ANYTHING to remove the rust.   John

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 1

    manual spark advance / lawn mower

    in General Discussion

    Posted

    That is normal with mine also after short hot shutdown.  Re timing:  The blade acts as a flywheel, acting to continue rotation by the mass inertia.  Try removing the blade and cranking up the mower, violent kickback. I learned this as a kid fooling around with old mower engines, only found one that would consistently crank up without kickback when blade was removed. I learned if I pulled it FAST I could crank it up. Also had very aggressive throttle response,  kinda like my Buick 264 without the torque converter bolted up.😉

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