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Posts posted by TexasJohn55

  1. I just had to share this. I bought a parts car to keep it from getting crushed. After putting in a radiator and hoses, clocking distributor with new points and condensor, freeing up starter, removing plugs for inspection and replacement,( I spun it by hand before investing time in it) spun it by starter till it built oil pressure. Did a compression test, had enough to eliminate a dead hole. Dropped fuel line off electric pump into a bucket and fired it up. Within a minute it ran smooth, no knocks or rattles, lifters good. I let it warm up and dropped it in gear, dynaflow pulled good all gears and no whine.  Can you beat that for a junker sitting in a field since the 80's? And the engine has 150 psi on all cyls except one which is 125. It actually sounds better than mine.


    I pulled the engine and trans. Ordered parts to reseal trans. Resealed and adjusted both bands. Re-used later style vulcanized torque ball retainer and improvised a dust seal over it. Pulled the '56 trans out of my car and installed this one. Road tested and it pulled good and no leaks yet. How's that for luck?


    This is the first post since forum software update, I am at the library. My home pc is not functional on forum except to recognize me and use the 'like' button. I cannot respond to this post on a regular basis. Just wanted to share this.



    • Like 11

  2. In addition to above info: Fan clutches are matched to the fan blade, engine rpm (gearing) and desired operating temp range. I once owned an '82 Suburban with the 6.2 diesel and HD cooling system. The factory thermal fan clutch worked so well, you might think it was being "switched" on and off. It only ran when pulling a load and then infrequently. The fan clutch was so well matched, at 8000 ft elevation or higher, it engaged and roared all the time at normal temperatures due to the thinner air and reduced drag on the fan blade.   The fan clutch is designed to work with the original OEM setup, changing the fan blade may change the operating characteristics. I would also question whether the replacement clutch is a good match or just calibrated for a wide range of vehicles.

  3. "????  The bearing cavity is sealed from the coolant."


    Not on older vehicles that require packing.See the warning on the above link in regards to the dangers of over lubrication.


    Should I have said "the coolant is sealed from the bearing cavity"? Is packing not considered a seal? Do those water pumps not have weep holes to dump coolant and grease to prevent cross contamination?


    As a side note, soap is a thickener for the OIL based lubricant. Most greases (80-90%) use various "soaps" as the thickener. Google it.

  4. Water pumps should only use the special grease    not oil based  don't want petroleum in your cooling system   think it is soap based         not sure where to get it


    ????  The bearing cavity is sealed from the coolant.

  5. Do some basic troubleshooting first. Check and record codes. Do basic tune up with new plugs and wires. Buy a cheap fuel pressure guage and check fuel pressure. If engine has a misfire/ running rough, get a spark tester to determine if you have a coil pak failure which will affect 1 or 2 cylinders. Each coil fires 2 cylinders. Do not start swapping out parts or converter until you have done basics and determined what the problem is.

    • Like 1

  6. Sounds like a classic case of evaporator freeze up. This can happen when the system is low on freon and there is limited air flow across the evaporator such as fan speed set to low setting such as on long trip after cabin has cooled down. The evaporator is eventually covered with ice and air flow reduced even further.

    The other scenario is that the low freon causes the compressor to cycle off too frequently and reduces cooling. Either way, add a can of freon.

  7. Ronnie and 1953mack,

         If it is any consolation, I have had the same problems for months, cannot upload and icon keeps spinning, cannot add or delete any images from previous file manager. Don't recall error messages, haven't tried in months. I am on dial-up which is painfully slow but it worked in 2014. The only image I successfully uploaded lately was my profile picture.                    TJ55

  8. post-91539-143141929717_thumb.jpg

    68rivgs,      Yes on both counts. I noticed that all the options on the above tool bar were ghosted out, this time they are accessible. I will try again.


    OK, It did not upload from my pc but I clicked on "my media" and was able to attach a photo that I had previously uploaded to "my attachments".


    Well,...On my edit screen, it shows [shared media=core:attachments:651558] but didn't show when posted.


    5563, to me, I can do what I feel is a good check of how the needle/seat might be by actually looking at the contact pattern on the needle's "tapered area" and then where it touches the "seat".  Looking for consistency of sealing area and integrigy thereof.  Works for the Viton-tips, too.  Of course, the float level adjustment would need to be correct, too.



    (Learn something new every day!!)



    Willis, good theorizing but not very useful on new needle and seat. :)

  10. Yep, manual is a must but that doesn't help you much right now. Gently pry out the center cap, remove the nut and washer and all components and keep in original order. The horn button is adjustable for sensitivity. You can disconnect the single connector wire at the bottom of the steering column before repairs to keep the horn from blowing while you are working on it. Use a wheel puller if you have to remove the steering wheel.

  11. Update: Replaced the air filter housing and honeycomb screen on intake. Plugged in the MAF and cranked it up. Runs sweet again, MAF apparently not damaged. Moral of the story: Engine will not run right and MAF CANNOT READ CORRECTLY IF THE HONEYCOMB SCREEN IS MISSING OR DAMAGED OR UPSETS THE LAMINAR AIR FLOW ACROSS THE SENSOR.

    Cause of air filter fire not determined.

    • Like 1