greenhudson

Carlton I posted this in another thread and am not sure if it was posted, The Hudson splash system is the only oiling system they used in the eight cylinder engine from 1930 to 1952. The pump is low pressure (2 to 4 psi) and just moves the oil from the lower pan into the dipper tray on top. The dippers on the bottom of the connecting rods spray the oil throughtout the engine and it is gravity feed back to the pan. Frank

Carlton the 1934 Hudson oiling system is entirely splash. The purpose of the oil pump is to move the oil from the main pan into the dipper tray on top. The oil pump is low pressure about 2 to 4 pounds. Hudson maintained this system on all the eight cylinder cars till the last one in 1952.

Fossil, I think I have one, let me check tomorrow and I'll PM you if I do. May not be cost effective considering distance. Frank DePasquale New York

Regards TWIN6, Not New York picture looks like my 1934 Hudson long wheelbase (123") Club sedan.

Staver, as Paulrhd29nz stated it is for a Hudson Super Six. Hudson had a splash lubrication system and this oil pump put out 2 to 4 PSI, enough to move the oil from the bottom pan into the upper dip tray. I would be interested in the oil pump if the unit is for sale.

Pakon, I checked the firewall plate on my car and it reads, PAINT #70, TRIM #12. it is mint green body and dark or sea island green top. Ours is a New Yorker sedan not a New Yorker Deluxe. The deluxe has more and some different chrome or stainless trim. I have recently changed computers and can't find my pictures, but will take some if you still would like them. I purchased a pickup load of parts from a fellow that had a Deluxe, so I have some parts for your deluxe if needed. If I can help with anything else I'll be glad to help. Frank

Paton, my 54 New Yorker is mint green, and I think you have the information you need th paint the car. I am in Hershey right now and do not have all the info at hand. If you need help next week send me a private message and I'll try to help. Frank, Upstate New York

PM sent

I think some of this paranoia is warranted in some areas. About 20 to 25 years ago you could go to a DMV regional office in New York state with a plate number and for a small amount of cash $5.00 or less get information on registrant of that vehicle. Always thought it was a breach of privacy, and don't know if the practice has been stopped. It was a income producing item for DMV.

Vintchry, . My 54 New Yorker has holes underneath the gauge pod to insert a Allen wrench and loosen the knob set screw. There was non under the light switch, which is on the dash board. I had to remove the dash to remove the switch. There is an access hole under it now. Frank New York

Thanks Dave, . I found a NOS motor on E-BAY and installed it in the car, but will try your remedy on my two used motors, and if it works will keep them as spares. Frank

Thanks Jack, . I wish you were correct, but I removed the motor from the car after it wouldn't stop on windshield after warming up for 20-30 minutes. I guess the load would be physically stopping blade by hand. frank

Jack, Thanks for your response. I wish mine would stop at that certain spot, but it's on the bench and has no dry windshield drag to help slow it down. May have to put a toggle (kill switch) in car to solve problem. Frank

Folks, I'm having a problem with the wipers in a 54 Chrysler. They work fine until they run about 20 to 30 minutes, then they will not turn off. I have to get out of the car and physically stop them. I have removed the motor and bench tested it. Same problem, have to pull a wire to stop motor also with the spare wiper motor I tested. Thinking two motors couldn't have the same problem I took the switch apart cleaned and hooked back up with same result. I realize the parking switch is attached to the motor and cleaned points on that unit. Is there something I missed or should know about these devices.? Does anyone out there have a new switch and/or motor that will work?

Pete, I recently bought some parts for our 54 Chrysler New Yorker and think a gas tank was included. I will be away from home until early next week. I will check the tank and parts book to see if it will fit your Imperial, when I return. Frank DePasquale New York

I have the "New Yorker Deluxe" scripts for the rear fenders, also I may have a spare set of tail light lenses. Let me know if you still need them and if you give me your e-mail address I'll try to send pictures. Frank

Karl, Thanks for the note. This car was restored in the 1950's and was outfitted with late 40's Packard pistons, also with a smaller wrist pin, so I decided to stick to this change. Besides the packard pistons cost $229 from EGGE machine and the original Hudson pistons were $1100.00. I have acquired a set of 26 Hudson connecting rods that should work fine after a smaller bronze bushing is inserted for the wrist pins. Thanks again, nice to know Pacemaker pistons would also work. Frank

Tom, Many years ago I had a similar problem with my 1918. I had a new shaft made from stainless steel and, because the impeller had bore a hole through the rear body of the pump, I used half of a later (27-29) pump replacement. The newer housing is brass bit the correct size to bolt on. Frank DePasquale New York

Paul, Thanks for your time. I have tried that site without much luck. Am now looking at a possible set in Australia, or a complete 26 engine in the states. If neither of those work out I may contact you back for a complete motor. Frank

Looking to purchase a set of connecting rods for a Hudson Super Six. 1916 through 1927 will work. Frank DePasquale

Paul, I appreciate the effort. Not having any luck finding a set. Frank

Yes, to inserting the newly babitted bearings into another set of rods. The machinists thinks that a couple of the rods are so bent, one in three areas, that reworking would weaken them and cause a failure in the future, another has a 1/4 offset from bottom to top. I have decided to look for a new balanced set rather than risk that from happening later.

It may be of interest to other owners of Super Sixes that the connecting rods are somewhat interchangable from 1916 through 1929. The difference being 16 through 28 1/2 used a removeable bronze backed babitted rod and sometime in 1928 the removeable backing was replaced by babbitt applied directly to the rod. The rod was shortened about 1/4" in 1920, which allowed the Packard pistons to be used with a smaller bushing for the piston pin. I am hoping to locate a replaceable bearing type and use my newly babitted ones. Thanks for any efforts in locating these items.

My 17 was restored in the 50's and Packard pistons were installed. Put a new set in, after rebabbitting, the pistons were hitting the head. Machinists stated they could straighten as good as possible but thought it might weaken them and cause failure in the future.

Yes Jon I have tried all those routes, and I only came up with a set in Australia, (very expensive to ship), and a complete later engine that only the rods will fit the 17 .