Bruce Winters

Selling my 1934 Plymouth PF Coupe. https://madison.craigslist.org/cto/d/belleville-1934-plymouth-coupe/7199978530.html Car is located in New Glarus WI. Asking price $16,900.

This is from a 1937 Desoto chip chart. Probably the same for 1938..

Many good suggestions here. I have had success with a good sealant applied to thoroughly cleaned threads. A key step is to thoroughly clean both the bolt threads and the threads in the block with a clear solvent like acetone. Use a clean rag or paper towel with the solvent and then dry with a clean paper towel then blow with air. Make sure every surface is clean and dry. Then apply the sealant to the threads, then install. I have had good luck using non-hardening black permatex on the threads. I like to wait over night before adding the oil so the permatex and any gasket sealer or silicone at

No comment on the price. Just put it in the ad.

This will unclog any drain!

I know about the black engine block. I painted this silver based on evidence the block was never painted black. I bought the car last Fall from an 83 year old gentleman who bought the car from the original owner in 1962. (The title I received was dated 1962 signed by him) Some time in the 1990's he did a cosmetic restoration of the car. At that time he changed the color from the original Palm Beach Gray to the Red you see in the photos. He did no mechanical restoration of the car. When I got it, naturally there were some oil leaks I wanted to fix. When I removed the tappet covers I saw what lo

The cable arrived today. Thank you Handleman for digging it out. I soaked it down with mineral spirits followed by another soaking in a light oil. It moves much easier than the cable I had on the car. I can't wait to try it all out. Attached are a couple pics of my project. Other than the color it is pretty much stock original. I am finalizing a mechanical restoration including a complete engine rebuild. The previous owner painted painted the car and reupholstered the interior. I am hoping to have it back on the road some time this Fall.

It looks like I have a cable on the way. Many thanks to all for the replies and helpful advice.

Very interesting. Thank you. I think the tubing will work much better than the bowden cable I was messing around with. I will check the od of some steel brake line and see if I can find something that will work. I like the idea of the soldered wire too. I can see how that might prevent the tubing from slipping around in the clamp. You are right about the timing mark being on the crankshaft/pulley on the PE. In addition to the PE I have a 34 PF. The timing mark on the PF is on the flywheel as your 33. With no mark on the pulley/vibration dampener. It is a different lighter looking pulley. Thank

Handleman - Next time you are in the abyss I would really appreciate your having a look for that dash knob button cable. Ply-33 - You describe exactly what I have. I am a little confused about the mention of a cable in a tube. I was thinking the shorter cable would be another boden cable like the longer cable from the dash. Because My shorter cable was gone I wasn't sure what it looked like. I like the idea of a cable in tube. The bend from the transmission arm to the spool valve is an "S" shape. The tube may hold its shape better and smoother cable action than the flexing boden ca

Hi, I am hoping to find a good free wheeling cable for my 1934 Plymouth PE. Mine has a crushed section and is nearly impossible to pull. I am also looking for the shorter cable that leads from the transmission to the vacuum clutch mechanism. If you have one or both that would be great. Thank you.

I had a 1939 Plymouth with a rumble seat. If I am not mistaken Plymouth was the only Mopar with a rumble seat that year, None after that. Other makes - not so sure.

Hi, I am wondering if you have an extra pair of bugle horn brackets for a 34 Plymouth PE? Thank you

For me it has to be sandblasting large items in my driveway then cleaning up the mess afterward. Followed by cleaning greasy grime parts. I can't mention the worst part without mentioning the best part. The best part is when the project turns the corner and all of the parts have been cleaned, painted and prepped for reassembly. Then, it's like building a new car. Great fun!

While sheltering at home I have been putting the finishing touches on the engine for my 1934 Plymouth PE Coupe. I am hoping to get it back in the car and running soon. The engine has been bored 30 over with all new internal parts. While I am at it I decided to repaint the cowl and frame. It will never be easier than now.