jbeary

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Everything posted by jbeary

  1. Can I call dibs please???
  2. jbeary

    Reatta Performance

    That makes perfect sense. Thanks for the clarity and illustration. I'll be on the look out for these at the pull a part now because of this info. Thanks again!
  3. Looking for a clean, hole free medium beechwood seat back cover. Anyone have an extra they are willing to part with? Would prefer a passenger cover due to wear. Don't need the seat or headrest, just the seat back and just the cover. Will gladly trade spare parts. Please pm me.
  4. Link http://padgett.performanceresearch.us/cars/10box.htm to the great article on the many black and silver boxes in the Reatta.
  5. jbeary

    Reatta Performance

    Other than fade, what benefit would going to a 12" rotor have? Personally I much rather the pedal feel in the '89 over the '91. Best and least expensive improvement is flushing the system regularly. Goes without saying this is true for all auto brakes but is especially with the Teeves. You'll notice a pronounced difference on pedal feel after new brake fluid. If you have an '89, swapping out the ICM and coil pack are another good upgrade. If top end is all you're after then hardwire a switch to the lock up solenoid. People have done that too. I agree, supercharging is probably the least expensive major engine upgrade, hands down less expensive than adding a turbo. Realistically it's a lot of labor and you need a very good machine shop that understands what you're asking for. Then you'll need a tuned chip, most likely from Sinister Performance. I've also read that you can have a cam custom ground and use pistons from a supercharged 3.8 to bump up compression yet haven't read many who have done this. Either way, more torque is an expensive proposition due to the weakest link which is the transmission so have another transmission on hand if you plan to add any additional torque. I'm in the middle of doing a supercharged swap now, and will be replacing the struts and springs on the front when I get the block out. This has taken about two years to collect parts for and I have bought practically an entire parts car, I mean everything but the body itself. Like Kdirk had said earlier, these cars are often inexpensive to get into so buy slotted rotors and a K&N filter hardware the lock up soleinoid if you must and enjoy what you have since its a low miles 25 year old car. My '91 has 81k yet still has major problems I'm living with, while I work on supercharging the '89.
  6. WOW! Very nice Zoltanb. Where's the "R" Reatta emblem from? Looks to be made of metal. Is that something oem?
  7. Hey Keith, thanks for the introduction. This is what makes the hobby fun. I find myself connecting with people I meet on ebay becoming more successful than had been in a long time. It's great to have people like Jeremy pulling parts before they get crushed. Although I know it's hard to develop a real sales strategy on ebay for any sales forecasting. So welcome Jeremy. @Jermey, Barney Eaton maintains a Reatta database and it'd be helpful to us geeks, not unlike myself, if you would post a pic of the vin number in the trunk attention Barney. Or send it to me and I will send it to Barney. The pics you have are great by the way. Any little bit of help with accurate numbers will pay off for all of us Reatta addicts.
  8. @Pontiac Dude: I'm glad you tried it this way so I know what I'm up against when I do this. Where did you end up getting the resistor from? Did you end up using a 3.3 ohm? Here's the original steering from the grand national. I pulled it out of the attic tonight hoping for much worse but this doesn't look as bad as the 91's. This was pulled at 60k and replaced with an oem wheel that I practically stole when ebay was in its infancy. Since the grand national has 95k and hasn't been driven in the past 7 years, the steering wheel is about the best looking part on the car. Here's a spare, yoohoo. I like Padgett's thought about avoiding something approaching 25 years old blowing up in your face. And because I already have this wheel I've decided to work on this as a replacement for the wheel for the medium beechwood one in the 91. The 89's wheel is still really nice, nicer than this grand national wheel so I'm not going to attempt that swap, that and it's just plain goofy to start with a blue color and try to go to tan anyway. Since I bought all that Leatherique stuff, I'm hoping to strip this down and do a color change. I'll do a tutorial of that as well the connector to jump the air bag. I took my airbag out because I was freaking out over my busted horn buttons. More to follow.
  9. Ya jeez sorry bout the extra three zeros there. 3.3k would be real high and probably wouldn't do anything much. 3.3 - 4 ohm is about what a 4ohm speaker would measure. That's passing more current than a 3.3k. I don't think you'll have luck at rat shack finding such a high valued resistor but they aren't scarce. If anyone in town sells electronic parts try there first but you can also get these online. Parts-express has them here: https://www.parts-express.com/33-ohm-1w-flameproof-resistor-10-pcs--003-3.3. I haven't done this swap myself but I have never been steered wrong by these guys and it seems very straight forward. One question I have is; can this be done at the connector under the dash or does it need to be tucked behind the horn button? Personally I'd rather do this under the dash. Probably can find a 4 ohm load wire wound at rat shack to boot
  10. From the album: Member Galleries

    Handles like a dream with horrible bump steer.
  11. Try 3300 ohms. Shouldn't have a problem with a typical 1/2 watt. Kits or Padgett, any suggestion on the wattage? Even if you used a 1/4 watt, if the resistor burned up, it'd probably only be due to a collision that would have tripped the bag.
  12. This has only happened once on the GS. Haven't had this occur on a FWD car I've owned but I'm sure there are plenty of bad hubs on the road. Like bad CV joints, I'd hear a clunking noise when I went through a hard corner. Didn't need to be going very fast, I could go real slow and have the same noise. Good thing you caught that before it broke the race and tore up your back axle. Fortunately I did too. FYI: if your lug nuts aren't tight and you're about to break the studs it sounds similar. If you break the studs, the clunking gets a lot louder.
  13. Bought an all chrome JC Higgins Flightliner when my wife and I decided to start riding bikes. The first thing I did was to strip the clear lacquer topcoat because any attempt to polish that yielded little results. Simichrome is great and I'm surprised no one has mentioned Mothers mag polish. Love that stuff. Haven't tried the meguires but without a clear coat most any metal is much easier to polish.
  14. Can't speak for anyone else here but personally I'd love to have this engine and I wouldn't be too put out to afford it but there's no way I could bring this pride and joy home without the immediate and ever persistent threat of divorce. Lots of people like me need to keep thrifty to keep the peace. Yet at even $300 (which is what I paid for a complete s/c series 1 with transmission) I doubt all the prototypical scarcity of any engine would matter. There's another guy with a prototype Reatta body who was posting it here for sale but I think he had no takers either. And I don't think I was the only person with ideas of mating these but I kinda want to stay married. Ronnie, what can I say but your a swell guy. Thanks for everything you do.
  15. Hi, are those both 16 way seats or just the passenger one? I know it's probably just the angle but the drivers looks very different. Just wondering if the profile of both types are that similar. Probably more so from the front than the side it seems. Would love to have new covers, if I had 16 way seats I'd be tempted to ask if your guy could make an extra set. I can't help but think how disappointed I'd be unless these were done just right. Even starting with good bones, the tuck and roll on these seems highly daunting and is probably beyond anyone in my immediate area. In case your guy doesn't need to tear apart every bit of the old seats to make a pattern, please PM me any time if you'd care to sell what's left over.
  16. Sweet! You got one up on me just by having door panels! Are you planning to go the tablet route or something different? I was looking at an Archos 5 because it's 4:3; I'd hate losing the trim. Have also been looking at doing a home brew media center but the 7" tablets with good Bluetooth are much cheaper. Would be great to have a post listing the components when you have a chance.
  17. From the album: Member Galleries

    $345 paid and delivered... Yoaza!
  18. From the album: Buick Reatta

    3.8 SC w/ 4T60e from a 93 Bonneville
  19. From the album: Buick Reatta

    Not completely straight. You can see where the headlight door is
  20. From the album: Buick Reatta

    A completely different car. 1991 This car has such low mileage because of the problems upon problems it's encountered along the way...
  21. From the album: Buick Reatta

    Starting to fade away..
  22. From the album: Buick Reatta

    Still straight, on this side anyway...
  23. From the album: Buick Reatta

    Silver 89