Front Struts in Buick Reatta Posted August 12, 2016 · Edited August 12, 2016 by jbeary (see edit history) Some time has passed since I've been here and it unfortunately looks the same as when I first arrived. I mean why can't people leave Ronnie alone? The guy is a pussycat without any intention of making working on this car sound easy. If you are planning to have this done or do it yourself, you should know this isn't like swapping up shocks, this is a hard procedure to undertake even if you're a professional you-tube watcher and you can jack your steering up to no end as soon one bolt comes off. Buying something that we all know does not exist from an eBay seller and then paying someone to try to make it work will probably be worse. The year to year variations of these E body cars is mind boggling. And Ronnie, please correct me if I am wrong, but as far as I can tell the only other E body that shared the same spring specs was the same year Riviera, which I think is why the 88 would have a different strut configuration. And there are two grades of springs that you could order but most Reatta's came with the "sportier" spring. I only know this because I was able to track down a set of oem springs on where else? eBay? I'm searching for actual part numbers though and you may be surprised how few listings for actual oem Reatta parts there are. I think the 90-92 Rivera is closest to your 90. So I recently did this job myself on the 91 and it's not very easy. The easiest part is scribing the knuckle with the original strut outline. This is also probably the most important step because you can potentially mess up your alignment past where a good alignment shop will be able to help you if you don't at least align the new strut to where the old was. No, wait; I was wrong. The easiest part of this job would be spending $131.64 on a set of sensa-track struts that you will never install. Unless you are going to search out oem parts, I would just use everything from your current strut except the actual strut and the strut mount which is very reasonably priced at reattastore.com for $35.29. If you had the 88 or 89 you may want to try Rockauto for a better price on the mount. For the 90 and 91 I don't think you're going to find a better price than from reattastore.com; I mean this is really a Amazon storefront and Amazon is going to be the same price anyway. How many of us have bought something from Amazon when Ronnie's web store has the same prices, shipping, etc? I bought my spring compressors from Ronnie and yes you need some anti-seize to use these so you can buy that from Amazon if you haven't already. And I'm not sure why all the hate for the Gabriel struts because they are closer to if not actually an oem part. I guess it's the difference between the warranties that come with these. The sensa-track struts are smaller in overall length. I figured I'd build two sets, one set with the Gabriels and my original springs and another set with the new "sportier" springs and the sensa-track struts. If the monroes failed after a few years, I'd just get a new set from them and use the old springs. If they are still good after I can get the 89 out of our back yard, I'll build a pair with the Gabriel struts. The only original parts in my current assembly are the rubber isolators as these are unobtainium. Energy suspension has poly isolators that should work but i haven't had the motivation to order them to do a comparison. I would also strongly suggest you replace the strut rod bushing when the strut is out. Mine were shot. And finally, you can check your subframe/body bushing more easily when the strut is out as these often will need replacing like mine do. These were probably the most expensive parts I bought for my 91. You, or whomever, also should know to take care and not let the CV shaft slip from the differential when the strut comes out. If it slips out and gets scored at all you will need to find some chump to buy your car or just plan to replace your transmission with that spare you have in the shed out back. Keep a jack under it and keep the spring compressed until the strut is in place and the lower A arm can be jacked up to where the knuckle and new strut can line up and you put both bolts in their holes. You need at least two jacks but having a third is helpful. I can tell you that my car is 110% more stable after I finished this job. I'm still driving around without an alignment but it's pretty straight and that 89 I have is so janky I think I'm just going to keep the mismatched set of tires on if and when I ever get the engine back in and I can drive it again. With the new springs the car does seem like it sits higher but I never measured it before and that could change when I put the 16" rims back on. The tires on my 89 were better and I blew a tire on the 91 rims so I just took those off. I have them in the shed out back since I had that spare set for the 89 and would rather not bust up my nice 91 rims. The car is still too low for me to easily fit a jack under so it's probably exactly the same except it handles and more importantly, launches way better. I had bad wheel hop for sure judging the wear on the tires. But I can't tell you what part was more beneficial although since the original struts were worn out, my guess the differences I'm feeling are more from replacing the strut and not the spring. Maybe someone could explain the differences in the springs from year to year again. I'm sure Barney could. I have a spare set of Daniels poly rear sway bar bushings for when I do the rear on this car. The rear struts are a much easier experience so you may want to cut your teeth so to speak with that job if you plan to do the front yourself. When it comes time for me to do that on the 91, I'm dropping the entire subframe. It took more time maneuvering the top nut when I did this on the 89 than it would have to drain the brakes and drop the subframe. Would have saved some knuckle skin too.