Drew Kreidelcamp

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About Drew Kreidelcamp

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  • Birthday 02/20/1954

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    Aircraft Mechanic, Electronic technician,Farmer

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  1. I was a member of the AMC Pacer club for many years. I didn't know it still existed. I had a 1976 AMC Pacer X with a 4 on the floor and a rally pack. It served me well for 13 years and was fun to drive. I bought it for nearly nothing and sold it for slightly more than that.
  2. I think this would depend on the condition it was in when it was last driven and the quality of the storage it has been in for the last 30 years. If it ran well when it was parked and stored in an area that is not excessively damp, it may not require much to get it back into running condition. I would first check to see if the engine is seized. If you can turn it over by hand ,there is a good chance you could get back into running condition without a lot of work and expense. It might be a good idea to remove the head and check for corrosion and carbon buildup on the piston, cylinder and valves. The carburetor and fuel tank should be drained and cleaned. Change the oil. The ignition point contacts may be oxidized after 30 years and may need replacement.
  3. Check the water pump bearing and check for leaks when you add coolant. If the cooling system was drained when it was in storage, the seal could be bad. The impellers tend to rust in the seating area. It might be a good idea to flush the radiator and replace the hoses.
  4. I bought seat fabric from SMS for my 1951 Henry J in 2009. The material was a good match to the original style and the service was fast.
  5. The steering wheel appears to be a late 40's Chevy pickup style. The rod bearings will last a lot longer in the 216 cid engines if you keep your speed at 50 mph or less. Chevrolet produced their first completely pressure lubricated engines in 1954.
  6. My first car was this 1951 Henry J that a neighbor let me drag out of his tree grove when I was 15 years old in 1969. It has a Kaiser supersonic 6 and overdrive. I still drive it during the summer months.
  7. The car parked behind this Reo is an Auburn, but it is a sedan in very good condition. I talked to the owner of the car and he wasn't sure how this Reo ended up with a boat tail body. He decided it was best not to make any changes to either car.
  8. Here are some photos of a Reo Royale that were taken at a museum in Forman, North Dakota.
  9. The geyser in your reservoir may be caused by trapped air pushing fluid back into your master cylinder. You did not mention what type of brake bleeder you used. I have found that some brake bleeders don't work very well on some older cars. My vacuum bleeder works very well on my Citroen, but it fills the brake lines with air on my 1949 Chevrolet pickup resulting in a problem very similar to the one that you described. A flexible line immersed in brake fluid works better on this vehicle. Perhaps you should try a different type of brake bleeder. You might have better luck. Drew's vehicles: 1949 Chevrolet pickup 1951 Henry J 1958 Lambretta 150LD 1961 Bianchi Orsetto 1965 Citroen 2CV(Deux Chevaux)
  10. I had this 1958 sliding window coupe about 30 years ago. It was a very unique driving experience.
  11. I took my 51 Henry J for a cruise around town. It's a bit weathered, but still runs very well.
  12. Capacitors in this value range are not polarity sensitive. You can hook them up either way. Larger value electrolytic capacitors have polarity markings on the side.
  13. To troubleshoot this, you might want to start by first identifying the voltage source wire to the switch. There should only be one hot wire with the switch off. Leave this wire on and remove all of the others. It would be a good idea to label the wires and make a drawing on a sheet of paper so you know where everything connects to. With the switch mounted in position, turn it on. If the fuse blows, the switch is shorted. If the switch is ok, reconnect one wire at a time and turn on the switch. If one of the other light circuits is shorted, it will blow the fuse when reconnected. Some older cars have the light fuse mounted in the switch. The voltage source wire will connect to a terminal on the switch which connects to one side of the fuse and the other side supplies the voltage to the switch circuit. If you know the switch is ok, you could place a jumper from the switch supply side of the fuse to the separate circuit lugs to isolate the short. This would make it unnecessary to remove the other wires.
  14. There should be no need for the light switch itself to be grounded. It should direct the current from the voltage source(wire from fuse box) to the headlights, parking lights, tail lights and instrument lights. The brake lights should be on a separate circuit. If any one of those light circuits has a short, the fuse will blow.
  15. If both the brake lights and tail lights are not working, the problem is more likely in the wiring to the tail lights along the frame, the light sockets or a bad ground. I think you could start by placing a jumper wire across the brake light switch and testing for voltage at the tail light sockets. If you have voltage, it could be a bad ground at the light socket or to the frame. It could also mean that the switch is bad. If you have no voltage at the light socket, the problem is in the wiring along the frame. A good visual inspection of the frame wiring might reveal the problem. If you see any wiring connectors, check for a loose fit or corrosion. On a car of this age, it is most likely a bad ground, a corroded light socket or an open circuit or dirty connector in the frame wiring.