frank29u

Congrats on your purchase! There is a lot of info in the sites mentioned by DWeber, his especially. Taylormade is right-on, fix what's needed and drive it. DW is having fun with his car as he continues to work on it.

So cool!!! I wouldn't have had your patience; connect oil and ammeter gauges and away we go!

My understanding is there are no numbers for the the different body styles for 28 & 29, just total production. frank

Congratulations!! How satisfying and fun to get running.

The "Maxwell" in the Plymouth was the '28Q. Chrysler changed the engine a bit for the '29U. My understanding is the distributor bases are not interchangeable.

GORGEOUS!

It is certainly possible they were removed some time along the line, but I don't recall any evidence of them being there. The car was in pretty sad shape when purchased in '65 with a '53 plate on it, but basically complete including the engine pans, Kingston vac tank and Carter RT-08 carb. Interesting the Sixth Edition, August 1929 Instruction Book does not mention shocks for maintenance or service. Page 75 is "Accessory Repairs" which lists Battery - Willard Battery Co; Carburetor - Carter Carb. Corp; Ignition Coil, Distributor, Starting Motor, Generator and Horn - United Motors Service Inc; Speedometer - North East Service Inc; Windshield Wiper - Trico Products corp. Both of my cars were assembled in Aug 1929. I, too have the Parts List with the United Motors section which list both front and rear. Were they always installed in pairs? does it make sense they would only do one axle, say the front?

Thank you keiser31 and ply33! Re: shocks. Actually, my surprise was that it had shocks on the front axle since my sedan has none. This because the sedan was heavier or buyer didn't want to pay additional for them? I believe they were an extra cost like the bumpers and wire wheels, among other items.

Success!! Thank all of you for your advice and precautions, invaluable! Tracked down a puller and both hubs are off without any hammering. See the borrowed weapon and my trusty monkey wrench. I think I was lucky. A surprise after removing the front wheel - Delco-Lovejoy shock.

Thanks for the compliments! The sedan is stock down to the functioning Kingston vac tank. hcris and curti, I appreciate your advice. The last thing I need is to have it hit me, or worse, my wife's car!

keiser31, that looks exactly what I see, but your pic shows much cleaner underneath. Iv'e understood you never force anything, you just get a bigger hammer - now we positively know the truth! Will inform of how this unfolds. I'm working on a roadster, my fantasy car, which just hit town last Thursday. However, my Sedan is my first car purchased in '65 and I have many memories working on it with my dad, a FILO for me, First In Last Out. frank

Thanks Taylormade. Found an OTC on Amazon, but not familiar with OTC. https://www.amazon.com/OTC-7394-Universal-Hub-Puller/dp/B0002SRH60/ref=pd_lpo_263_tr_t_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=AD22EP4H2DCAHJ7TQRNV We have a Ford A & T store in Msp, Little Dearborn, and I was going to check with them for possible rental. Have been religiously following Daphne, fantastic work you do! frank

More great info. Thank you ply 33. Like you link for repair. Will also google. frank

Thank you! Great picture. The sledge hammer is easy. Where might I find this puller? frank

How do I remove the rear brake drum/hub from the axle? I'm guessing there is a special tool which I don't have. I really don't want to drive the car to get it loose. Thanks for any help. frank

Joe, I believe you have a Kingston vacuum tank like I use. Pretty simple, fuel line to one hole, vacuum from oil pump to the other, gas to carb out the bottom. Line from the manifold is for the wiper.

According to the parts list, the escutcheon plate for the handles and window crank is the same for PA, PB, PC and PD. P/N 352495.

Your welcome. Good to hear of your success.

Harry, The Delco-Remy rotor p/n is 816774. This is from the United Motors section of Plymouth Parts Manual. It fits Plymouth 28Q, 29U, 30U, PA & PB; 4 cylinders all. Interestingly, each model had a different distributor. I also found a newer number in my notes, but no manufacturer, RR-74. Good luck, frank

Your looking for the pot metal bearing retainer the throw out bearing rides on. Good luck finding one in good shape. A friend had one made from aluminum.

Is this for a front wheel?

Definitely check the timing, especially if the distributor was removed from the housing. Backfiring symptom, the manual also says to verify the wires are on the correct plugs. There may also be an air leak at the intake manifold connections. Curious it hasn't run in 30 years, but sounds like your getting close. If you don't have a manual, get one from ebay. Reproductions are relatively inexpensive, <$20. I wish I had it when I got my car, life would have been much easier. You probably have coil correct. Post marked Timing, wire goes to distributor. The other post wire is connected to ammeter. The other side of the ammeter is connected to the negative side of the battery at the starter switch. This may be located directly on the starter, unless it is Bendix, then this switch is independent. Note on the coil, the original had 2 posts, later replacements had another marked Gas. This was for the fancy electric fuel gauge they put on the 30U. On mine, I never use the spark advance to start, but do set the hand throttle a bit and use the choke. Good luck and let us know what you found. frank

I'll second the Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket. I've been using it for decades. Re-doing work on my buggy may get tiresome, but reading about you accomplishments - never!

You may want to try American Arrow Corporation, www.americanarrowcorp.com ph 248.435.6115 I purchased similar winged cap for my '29U Plymouth and it is very nice. They are expensive, my opinion, but make a quality product.

With all these good suggestions, I don't want to be insulting, but is it possible to "test drive" before you buy?