Andrewb88

Ronnie, Mine looks exactly like that. I ordered a new coil pack and icu. Should be in next week. The plug is full of the green Gou too. I have some electrical cleaner, I hope it will clean it up. I'll be in Vegas making a donation so I will not get back to working on the car until a week from Sunday. Thanks for your help. Andy

Ronnie, I cleaned all. he grounds with sand paper and put a shine to them, reassembled with alight coating of dielectric grease. Next I'm doing to move the cool pack and clean the mounting pads and also the plug look pretty gross so you may be onto something here. Thank you very much. Andy Padgett, CRT is working fine. I run a scan but no current codes just history codes. Orlando I see. Again, it looks like you have a wealth go knowledge based on the pictures. I do have some spare parts back in R.I. if you need something let me know. Andy Padgett, CRT is working fine, ran the code and all I got was history codes. Andy

Padgett, Great picture, I see it appears I am addressing the incorrect computer. After I clean all my connections under the hood I will take it to Advanced auto parts or somewhere to get a diagnosis and get the actual code. Until now I am replying on what the guys tell me. I'm pretty handy working on cars but nit the electrical stuff. Your help is greatly appreciated. I'm located in Port Saint Lucie Florida. Phone 401-241-6610 Thank you very much. Andy

Here is the story, I am a snow bird currently living in Florida and return to R.I. in the summer. While in R.I. I had low speed stammering problems. Brought it to a garage and they told me my computer was burned out. It was replaced and ran good for 75 mike. Shipped the car to Florida , started doing the car here and the same thing started to happen. Brought the car to the local garage and they told me my computer was burned out and needs replacing. I had several part in Rhode Island from a donor 88 Reatta. The local garage told me the part number 1128170 and I said I had one in R.I., My grand son mailed it to me. The local garage swapped it out, ran good for 50 mile now again the same problem. As I do some investigating it looks like this is not the ecm computer. Here is a picture, maybe you guys can offer a suggestion. I started checking all the grounds, I ill start checking the resistance on the fuel injectors and the chills. Thanks Andy

Sorry, it's an 88 Buick Reatta. Andy

I'm on my third computer and this one just burnt out. Just before it burns out I get a message on my crt screen saying there is an electrical problem with the engine. Then the car stammers at low speed bucking and non responsive to the gas pedal. I get aggressive it the engine smooths out with 1/2 pedal or more. I must say this started to happen after I cleaned the engine with gunk engine cleaner with a water rinse and compressed air to dry it off. The computers don't last 50 miles. I checked the on board diagnostics and do not show any active code, they are all history codes which have been addressed and corrected. It's been to the shop and they can't find anything causing this problem. They use the plug in under the dash system check. My car is an 88 with only 52k miles and is great condition except for this aging problem. My computer part number is 1228170. Any suggestions ? Thanks Andy

Dave, That was the cost of the plug and the freight. Andy

I like to consider myself very handy when it comes to fixing things. I've done brake replacement, exhaust replacements and rebuilt several engines in my day car and backhoe but when it comes to tracing electronic problems that where my weak area is. I had lost my power brakes and did not want to go to a dealer and pull my pants down. So I turned to the acca Buick forum and I can thank everyone enough that helped me. It turned out I had a faulty pressure switch and pig tail. I changed them both and now things are back to normal. Special thanks to Barney Eaton, Dashmaster, padgett, Lots of thnks to Ronnie, Mc_Reatta and Daves89 Keep up the good work guys, very much appreciated Junior Member Andrew <label for="rb_iconid_6"></label>

Dave, Thanks for the offer. I started to investigate what kind of plug and where to buy as soon as I discovered it was the plug. I went to Aut Zone, Advanced Auto parts and Bennets auto supply. I even looked through their pig tail catalogue and could not find it. I went on line and googled AC Delco pig tails and found what looked exactly like my pressure switch plug. When I foung the part number then I googled the part number and found the cheapest at Amazon for $60 OUCH ! but I needed it For those who like to know the part numbers it's ACD PT1489 and GM # 12117277. Thanks for the offer, I received the plug and installed it and now I have power brakes. Thanks to All.

An aftermarket pigtial can be purchased as a replacement part for an 1988 car? Thanks Andy

I've been chasing my brake problem for weeks. After replacing two pressure switches withoout sucess I find when I move the pressure switch plug aroung the motor pump comes on but won't stay on, it's intermitten as I move the plug. I either have a bad wire or defective connection at the terminal. Are these available as replacement parts ? Does anyone have a good used one for sale I could purchase ? :confused: I have another thread posted under brake problems. Thanks Andy

I received my spare pressure swith from a donor car in the mail and put it in. It does not start the motor to increase the pressure. I assumed it was sitting too long and may be siezed up so I bought a new one from the Reatta store. I Just put that one in and the motor still does not start. New Brake relay, and when I jump the red/grey wire to the black the pump starts. Does anyone have any ideas ? Thanks Andy

Mc_Reatta, I tried to break loose the pressure switch as mounted on the MC. I applied lots of pressure, I wasn't comfortable as I could not get it to break loose. I removed one of the mounting bolts from the rubber shock and also used a cresent wrench to hold it in place whild I used another cresent wrench to remove the pressure switch. I was able to get it broken loose applying opposite force. All I need to do is wait for the replacement to come in the mail as I have an entire assembly from a parts car in R.I. I'm glad I don't have to blead out any air. Thanks for your help, I really apprreciate it. Andy

Mc_Reatta, Thanks for the info. I will need to borrow a cresent wrench, I don't have one this big. I tried to use the rod and there is not enough leverage. Is it safe to apply the extra oomph with the unit assembled to the mastercylinder or should I remove the assembly and put it in a vice ? Thanks Andy

Dear Mc_Reatta, Thank you. I just confirmed if I ground the gray/red wire the motor does come on. This is what Ronnie was telling me but I read the procedue incorectly, my fault. I ran a jumper wire from the gray/red to the black as described by Ronnie and the motor came on. Thanks for the tip for the thin wall socket set at HF. when I change the pressure swithch will I have to bleed the system at all 4 wheels or will it purge it's self as it pumps back into the reservoir ? Thank you very much . Andy

Ronnie, Thanks for your help. I just confirmed with the volt meter I have 11 volts at the grey/ red wire. It looks like the pressure swith is the culprit. Any idea wher to purchase the special tool to remove this and the cost ? Thanks Andy

Just to make sure I was powering the correct side I inserted probes into the pressure switch plug where the black and grey/ red wire are and still no response from the motor.

Jumper wires completed, I connected it to the pins on the pressure switch for the black and grey/red wire. I turned the key on and put the wire ends, one on the hot side of the alternator and the other on the ground. The pump did not start. I took the relay from my fuel pump and put it on the brake relay connection and have the same results.

Here is the latest, I bought some wire connectors to power the motor. The motor runs with power. I checked the motor plug with my test light and the light does not go on. I bought a cheap volt meter at Harbor Freight, connected it to the battery, it shows 12V. I put the meter on the motor plug no reading other than zero. I checked the relay, Key on, red and brown has power. I connected my test light to the power on the altenator with the allagitor clip, I grounded the other end of the test light on the engine block ground, the light comes on. I test the pink w/ black and the gray w/ red wire and can't get the light to come on. The amber and bed brake lights come on withthe key on for a short period of time. I noticed the realys are dripping a black tar, I unpluged the two break relays and the black tar is on the conncetors, I'm not sure if this is a dielectric material or it may be the sealer under the plug used for weather proofing the relay plug melting out. I bought some contact cleaner cleaned them off and retested the wires at the relay. I'm using the ice pick end of the light tester coming from the botton of the plug to pick up the power and grounds. I did go to reatta.net to download the Teves manual 38 pgs. but I did not see Page or section 5E or chart D-1. I'm still searching all these sites to learn more about this break system. Looks complicated when it's the firs time seeing it.

Ronnie, Thank you. I just put power to the pink wire with the black stripe. My resources are limited so I used my light tester to pierce the wire with the pointed end with a wire on the aligator clamp with the other end of the wire tighted under my alternator hot wire. How can I check if the black wire has a good ground ? I have already changed the relay and checked the fuse. The relay is the one in the middle on the fire wall correct ? That's the information I got from one of the reatta web sites. Andy

Just tested the plug, I don't have a meter but have a light tester, connect to the battery the light comes on. Plug the tester in to the 2 wire connection at the front of the motor and the light does not come on. This plug has a pink wire with a black stripe and a black wire. Is ther supposed to be power full time going to the motor ? The key was in the ON Position.

I started doing some research on Reatta. net and Reatta regarding my brake situation. Barney suggested 4 things to check, the relay, the accumulator, pressure switch and the motor. I found the accumulator check procedure, turn the key to on and wait for the pump to shut off, it doesn't start. Pump the petal to hear the pump start. The pump does not start. I have my wife turn the key to on whilc I have my hand on the motor and I don't feel anything. Is there a way to test the motor ? Can I feed 12 volts to the connection on the front of the pump ? If the motor is good does this mean its the pressure switch ? Any help is appreciated.

Barney, Thank you. I'm a snow bird currently in Florida and I left my owners manual in R.I. I know what the accumulator is but do you have a diagram showing the pressure switch, pump and relay ?

Last night driving home my brakes went from power brakes to where I had to stand on the pedal to stop. Does anyone have any ideas ? Thanks Andy

Thanks, I will, I'm new to this forum. Andy