CHAD THOMAS

Different engine ( Bigger ) longer wheel base, different trim, just to name a few that quickly comes to mind.

I run a marine two cycle oil in my 7.4 diesel excursion, better mileage and runs quieter. I can see it fouling plugs quickly in an engine not designed for it as those plugs I suspect run cooler than those in a 2 cycle application. remember when you had an engine that burned oil so bad it fouled the plugs so you could move up one or two on the heat scale to get around that. My 63 Chevy pickup needed this plus antifoulers to run!

1940 Buick Limited touring sedan. black on black, wide whitewalls good running driving car. 25k

Ok, Friday night went well except I did not take enough pictures!Bare block ready to start Did you count the main bearings? Caps all checked for clearance and torqued Rods and pistons installed Time safety wire everything I hope he remembers how to do this if he ever has to!

Googled possible causes for coil failure already knowing that leaving the ignition on with out it running will cause damage. possible causes for failure: bad wires, bad plugs, vibration. new coil mounted to firewall in same place as old coil. Wires are solid core less than 5 years old as well as plugs of same age. pulled one of the plugs and it still looks very serviceable. So I guess moving forward I will replace the one borrowed from my buddies shop as well as buy an extra and throw in the trunk and wait and see.

So my 1940 Buick left me stranded over the weekend. 2nd time in two months. Not real happy about it but life goes on. based on the symptoms it lead me back to the distributor again so out it comes and it has a oil in the bottom, not a good sign in my opinion. Pulled the shaft out so I could clean everything up including the oil return hole to hopefully stop the oil from reaching the top. put it on the sun machine and get everything in spec. Put it back in and it started and idled fine beyond that it would run very rough but made it 3/4 of mile to my friends shop where it could spend the night and I could have the use of a loaner. Next day I pick up a replacement condenser as the old one was 2 or 3 years old and you just never know. pulled the dist again and back to the sun machine ( great for holding them while you work on them ) and put the new condenser in, double checked point gap and back in the car it goes. Car will not even think about starting......... Very weak intermitten spark. Went to the shelf and grabbed a spare coil ( same brand ) installed it and it fired right up and runs pretty darn good. So the question is this, who makes a quality coil? the one that was bad had only been out of the package 60 days and only about 60 miles. Granted it was purchased at the local farm supply as a generic replacement for an old tractor. I have no issues buying name brand if I knew they were any better. So, Who does make a good quality coil?

So several years ago my father took this: and turned it into this: I am now the care taker as I don't think it will ever be "mine". I estimate the car to have less than 5k on the engine rebuild, actually closer to 2k would correct. After taking it out of state for a family function and the engine performing poorly fouling a set of brand new plugs in less than 100 miles. Once we had the car back home I performed a compression test on it and found readings as low as 40 and as high as 65. Decided a re-ring was in order as I assumed the car sat too much early on and was never broken in correctly. Pulled the engine out and pulled it apart to clean and check everything and that is when the fun began.... I do remember him telling me what he had done to it, new wrist pins, new timing chain, rods machined for insert bearings, new babbit poured for the nine main bearings. I should have taken notes what some of these items fit as I cannot find them......I would also like to go back to the original machine shop to find out what they did but lets face it, that guy was old in 1963 when dad had the work done..... anyway, I digress. New semi finished pistons sourced from the east cost, shipped to southwest for finishing and shipped back to me. Delivered these with the block to local machinist for finish hone to fit. Finally sourced a set of rings and wrist pins but no wrist pin bushings..... Dad replaced the originals with 0.010 over sized so I am reusing those slightly used ones again and have had the pistons honed to fit. I have yet to find a source for replacement insert bearings but the have minimal wear so they are going back in. the mains are good to go. will post pictures soon as re-assembly starts tonight.

I really need a set of wrist pin bushings, anyone have a set just lying around?

maybe out of touch with this model but on mine the vacuum for the wipers is off the fuel pump which will not help in the timing. just my two cents.

The Nash engine looked like new. as new as it can for 83 years old. since it was out I could not run it, evapo rust works best heated. but it did very well and then a pressure washer with scalding hot water handled the rest.

How do I go about removing the ignition switch on my Buick? appears I need to remove the nice chrome key slot toggle and then the ivory bakelite switch face to pull the switch. My problem is the wire running to the coil has shorted out.

I just cleaned the block on my 32 Nash using Evapo Rust from Harbor Freight. works like a charm. I had the engine out at the time but I would not hesitate to put in a filter in the upper hose and add two containers of Evapo Rust and run the car, let it get up to temp and then let is sit for a day. Do the same the next day. Look at the color of the liquid, if it is nice and black it is working. dump it and do it again if you get a lot of sludge out of it. This is far easier than pulling freeze plugs and it costs about 25 bucks for 2.5 gallons. Cheapest starting point I know of.

at 16 took it in a 77 LTD. then 2 years later went for my Chauffers license in my dad 87 Buick but the emergency brake did not work and he would not allow it. I returned home to retrieve my 63 Chevy long bed 3/4 ton pick up ( a real rust bucket ). It was a hot August day and I had a different tester the second time, I told him I showed up earlier with a car with AC but the emergency brake failed. He told me if the other tester had known what my back up plan was he would have ignored the non working ebrake!

I will give Bob's a call. don't see the ones I need listed.

I have 4 or 5 hub caps. where are you located?

Who or where would you send your gauges to have them restored? the faces look really bad and need freshening up.

rebuilding a straight eight. how do you check valve guides for play/ wear and how much is too much? thoughts? and how hard is it to replace them?

price?

1) 1940 Limited Touring sedan, Very often 2) Engine oil once a year, add tranny, drain rear end, add shocks 3)It does not go to shows. rarely car events, but it runs a lot of errands on the weekends 4) almost always 5) not much 6) once a year 7) always. for sale now.