2Buicks

Here are some pictures from the local July 4th car show I participated that included about 25 local cars. It was great to just show off my 60+ year car (she has aged well). There was also a 1953 Buick 2dr Super in the lineup plus a beautiful 1937 Oldsmobile L37 Convertible Coupe. My 52 Super. I parked between a Model A Ford and an Austin Martin. The evaporative cooler on my Buick is a Montgomery Ward unit. I know this is not a Buick, but this is a very fine GM product, a 1937 Oldsmobile L37 Convertible Coupe. The 1953 Buick Super 2dr.

It has been awhile since I updated everyone on my 52 Buick Super. In preparation for a local July 4th car show, I used Robert's (shadetree77) cork trick in detailing some chrome parts. I filled in the missing red and blue paint on the trunk emblem and the black paint on the port holes and front grille. Instead of using paint thinner or lacquer thinner, I used isopropyl alcohol to remove the excess paint from the top surface. With a rag tightly wrapped around a cork soaked in alcohol, I slowly wiped the surface. It may have been a slower process, but I think it left the remaining painted surface in a better condition. Here are the great results thanks to Robert.

Update!! I recently took several pictures of the ‘52 Buick’s under carriage while on my son's car hoist. I wanted to survey the under carriage to identify items that needed to be add to my fix-it list. As you can see the under carriage is very clean with no rust. It shows this car was garage and well taken care of over its 60+ year life. There is some damage to the oil pan and transmission pan and breather tube. Also, looks like someone put sealer on the torque ball rubber boot at the transmission universal-joint. Overall, I am very happy with how clean I found under carriage. I have work to perform on the engine (small leaks) and replace worn out parts.

The parts look great. Even the holes where the broken studs were cleaned up very well. How is the butterfly shaft? Does it rotate? Don

James, I am interested for my 1952 Buick Super (263 c.i.). I checked the part numbers for the 1950 Buick Special manifolds and they are the same for the -40 and -50 series through 1952 and the 1953-40. Intake (1338252), exhaust (1314135), and exhaust manifold valve body (1315262). I don't know if your carburetor is a Carter or Stromberg, but the parts list show they are the same up through 1952. Do you have pictures you can post and how much are you asking for the parts? I live in California, so shipping is dependent on how much they weigh. The part I am really interested in is the exhaust manifold valve body. Don (2Buicks)

Shadetree, I have a similiar problem on my 52 Buick Super. The exhaust vavle body manifold butterfly is frozen. I have been trying to get it free with no luck, as reported on my April 11 thread (#43). In searching to find soemthing that can penetrate/loosen up the rust on bolts, someone sent me the following information on what penetrating oils work best. It turns out the home remedy one works best. Thought I would pass along this information. I am using the 50/50 blend of ATF/acetone. Don (2Buicks) Penetrating Oils Machinist's Workshop Mag recently published some information on various penetrating oils that I found very interesting. Some of you might appreciate this. The magazine reports they tested penetrates for break out torque on rusted nuts. They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist. They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrates with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment. *Penetrating oils .......... Average torque load to loosen* No Oil used .................. 516 pounds WD-40 ..................... ... 238 pounds PB Blaster .................... 214 pounds Liquid Wrench ..............127 pounds Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds ATF*-Acetone mix............53 pounds The ATF-Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note this "home brew" released bolts better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is almost as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price. Steve from Godwin-Singer says that ATF-Acetone mix is best, but you can also use ATF and lacquer thinner in a 50-50 mix. *ATF=Automatic Transmission Fluid"</STRONG></STRONG></STRONG></STRONG></STRONG></STRONG></STRONG>

Thanks for the instructions. Can you tell me which one of the threads has the problem. I am debating on replacing all the pictures with a smaller jpg. Don (2Buicks)

Exhaust Manifold Valve Body After reviewing Dan's story on his restoration of his 49_buick_super, I am trying to determine what my next step is on resolving my frozen exhaust manifold body valve, see pictures below. Dan bought a reproduction exhaust manifold and exhaust valve body set from Bob’s Automobilia. Everything looks original except the internal butterfly (deflector plate) has been eliminated in the exhaust manifold valve body. All other externals look to be the same between the OEM and reproduction. http://forums.aaca.org/f163/1949-buick-super-4dr-restoration-project-333552.html As the pictures show below, it looks like my valve body is stuck in the “Open” heat off position, and not in the “Closed” or “Partially Open” positions. I think my 52 Buick Super’s exhaust manifold valve body has been stuck in this position for a very long time since it was also missing the return spring. However, the engine runs great and is very smooth when accelerating/decelerating the engine. To help try and resolve my stuck valve, I have sprayed Kroil penetrating oil on the valve body and mechanism to see if it would help to free it loose. I let it set for some time and nothing happened. All that occurred was smoke being generated from the exhaust manifold as the Kroil was being burned off. Since I have not seen any other comments on Dan’s thread since September 2012, does anyone have any positive or negative recommendations on eliminating the internal butterfly valve. I would also appreciate any ideas someone may have to help free up a stuck exhaust manifold valve body.

Electrical wire Gremlins? In checking out the electrical on my 1952 Buick Super 4dr, I found I have a short in the circuit for the glove box light, doom light, and trunk (luggage) light. Included in the circuit is the rear seat cigarette lighter. Since I do not smoke or plan to have anyone use the cigarette lighters, this is not a major concern except where is the electrical short. After finding and repairing the smashed (grounded) wire under the front passenger seat for the rear cigarette lighter circuit, I am still searching for those Gremlins. I have isolated the electrical short to be on the passenger side, somewhere between the front window frame post and rear window frame post. All door jamb switches, doom light switch, trunk light, and glove box light check OK. The electrical short problem has to be in the 14 gauge power wire from the 30 amp fuse. Anyone have additional options I may want to explore in locating my electrical Gremlin without removing my original headliner (it is in excellent condition). I have not yet cut/splice any of the original wires to isolate what part of the circuit is the problem. My next step will be to cut the main 14 gauge wire after the glove box to try and isolate the problem. Any ideas from other old car owners will be helpful in tracking down my electrical Gremlin.

Electrical Heater Switch and Underseat Heater Fan My other challenge was why did someone add a toggle switch under the dash, next to the speedometer trip reset knob, and what was it for? I had asked the previous owner if he knew what the switch was for and he did not know. He indicated it was like that when he bought the car and he never figured out what it turned on or off. After a time consuming effort trouble shooting a couple of other electrical problems, I discovered what it was for. It provided power to the passenger under seat heater fan. However, the problem was the guard cover over the under seat heater was pushed in and bending with the fan blades. After I freed up the guard and fan blade interference, I was able to get the heater fan working. Thank goodness no previous owner burned up the fan motor or did they. The next challenge was why was the toggle switch hooked up to the heater fan and not the heater control switch on the dash? With the ground battery cable disconnected again, I removed the heater switch. There were no wires connected to the switch terminals and one of the terminal connectors for the resister was loose. I had purchased a replacement switch on eBay and tested both switches with an ohm meter and found the original switch was not operating correctly. I have installed the replacement heater switch and connected the wires from the old toggle switch. The dash heater switch now controls the under seat heater fan. For curiosity, I took apart the suspected switch and found the internal swiper plate was not making contact with one side of the resistor terminal connector. This was due to the contact point recessed deeper into the backing material. I was able to add solder to the internal contact and filed smoothed so the swiper would make contact when the switch was rotated. I now have a spare heater switch (I think). Included below are pictures of the two heater switches. A small screw driver was used to point to the bad terminal. My new concern is why the two position heater switch only operates the fan in high speed and not low speed, as described in Sections 11.1 and 11.2 of the Buick Shop Manual. Maybe my heater fan motor has the low speed circuit burn out and caused the original switch to go bad. Can anyone provide some additional insight?

Electric Clock Repair I have been busy repairing and replacing items on my dash. The electric clock did not work so I took it apart to examine its internals. My clock is a “New Haven” style and was in good shape and just needed cleaning. I used rubbing alcohol and compress air to clean the mechanism several times. After many repeats, I was able to get the mechanism work continuously. I also sprayed an electric toner cleaner on the mechanism to make it operate better. To make sure the clock was going to keep time and operate continuously; I hooked up my battery charger (set to 6 volts) to the power and ground terminals. After a couple of tries and an additional cleaning, I was able to keep the clock operating and maintaining time for two days. It was now time to reinstall the clock. I followed the instructions outlined in Section 10-64 of the Buick manual. I disconnected the battery ground, verified the 3 amp fuse was good, hooked up the clock light and the power wire, and then reinstalled the clock in the dash. I took the ground cable and touched the battery post once. I listened to hear if the clock rheostat kicked in to start the clock. It did, and it was now working again and keeping time.

1952 Buick Super Updates. Fender Edge Bumper, Grill Bumper Pads, and Vent Ducting Replacement I have been correcting minor problems found on my 1952 Buick Super. All four hood side to fender ledge bumper pads have been replaced, along with the hood to grill bumper pads. I was trying to see if this would help better align the hood and eliminate some of the hood to fender contact. It did improve the spacing somewhat but not as much as I was hoping for. I have included some pictures of the new bumper pads. The one picture shows a comparison of the old and new bumper grill pad. In addition to replacing bumper pads, I also fixed my defroster fan ground. The ground wire was broken off outside the vent duct and I had to go inside the vent duct to replace the wire on the defroster motor. In so doing, the original fabric ducting had to removed and replaced with new ducting. The Buick part # 1340398 indicated the ducting is 5.38" OD x 15 3/4" long. As it turns out, this duct length has to be for the Roadmaster because the duct length I needed was less than 10''. I have included pictures of the completed project. Lesson learned in replacing the fabric ducting. The new ducting wire is of a heavier gauge than the original fine wire and the fabric is a rubberized heavier material. The heavier gauge wire was difficult to insert inside the vent duct. Once I got the fabric/wire started inside the duct I used a wood dowel to push material deeper into the duct about an inch. Since the wire is of a heavier gauge, no gluing was required. Even though, the replacement fabric ducting does not look like the original, I believe the replacement ducting is stronger and more durable. I also purchased the replacement driver’s side fabric ducting. Just like on the passenger’s side, the Buick part # 1340849 indicated the ducting is 5.0" OD x 18 1/2" long. Again, this has to be for the Roadmaster because the duct length I needed was about 12’’ for my Buick Super. I have provided a comparison of the old and new ducting and measured length.

Fellow pre-unleaded fuel Buick owners, In researching what fuel pump I should have for my '52 Buick Super, I read some other threads posted on AACA. The one I thought was interesting was Dynaflash8’s comment on Robert’s thread (shadetree77) where he discussed the vapor lock problems on a hot day with Ethanol fuel. He added an electric fuel pump to overcome the vapor lock issue. He also uses Starbrite Startron Fuel Treatment to neutralize and prevent damage to the fuel system, fuel pump and carburator from using Ethonal based fuel. In operating my ’52 Buick Super, what other unknowns/problems do I need to be concerned with using the unleaded fuel with the ’52 Buick straight eight engine? Please identify any additives you have successfully used to protect the engine valves, etc. Thank you in advance, Don (2Buicks)

Robert,<O:p</O:p <O:p</O:p I apologize for stirring the pot of what the correct fuel pump should be for our ’52 Buicks. I had researched a lot of pictures on the internet to see what other Buick owners had for fuel pumps, including your postings. This also included looking at different year models on EBay. Even the ’52 Buick Shop Manual shows a different fuel pump diagram than mine. Based on your investigation, Mike at Then and Now Automotive, is a great source to use to help identify what fuel pumps are correct for our ’52 Buicks.<O:p</O:p <O:p</O:p Don (2Buicks)

Robert,</SPAN> Thank you for your thread update. I reviewed your comments on Russell’s 52 Buick, 41D Special (Me and My Buick). You posted a picture under Moore's Salvage Auto the shows a fuel pump that looks like your rebuilt pump. It has the newer vacuum top than the one I have on my 52 Super. In the 52 Buick manual (Section 3-18), it talks about a DG model (Series 40-50) and a DH (Series 70). </SPAN>The vacuum sections of both type pumps are identical. </SPAN></SPAN>The only difference is in the fuel pump mechanics plus the DH model includes an air dome on the outlet port. </SPAN>The air dome minimizes flow variations experienced with a two-cycle pump stroke and increases the pump output. I included a picture of the model 9762 with an air dome.</SPAN></SPAN> I would like to know if the model DH can be used on the Series 40 and 50 Buicks. The part I like is possibly adding the air dome to the fuel outlet to minimize the stated flow variations mentioned in the manual.</SPAN></SPAN> Don (2Buicks)

I took some additional pictures of my engine compartment to better show the decals. As I work on the engine I will correct any decals that are not correct. I have also found I am missing the fuel filter at the entrance to my Carter carburetor. I bought a Moraine fuel filter (#175) on eBay. I will be installing the fuel filter soon. I looked up the type I needed to install and hope this is the correct model. Can anyone let me know what the correct model # should be? I am going to order new vent air ducting because I found some tears in the fabric that can not be fixed. I went online and found Bob's Automobilia and Old Buick Parts - Cars, Inc carry replacement ducting. When I measured my vent ducts, they are 5 1/4" dia. The duct size I found at the two websites were 5" and 5 3/8" diameter. I assume the 5 3/8" will work for my Buick, however, but before I purchase the replacement ducting can anyone let me know what they did in replacing their ducting. I have included some pictures, including the rubber piece on the inlet vent ducts I want to replace. Has anyone found these inlet rubber piece stapled to the inlet duct? I found some fuel wetting on the bottom portion of my double action fuel pump. I still need to check the fuel lines to make sure they are not leaking. In researching what replacement fuel pumps/kits are available, I have seen two different upper body styles (vacuum portion). Can someone tell me me what are the difference. My VIN number is an early '52 Buick Super. Is my model a left over from the '51 Buick production model. The one I have is shown below.

Nick, Great pictures. Looks like you have redone the interior and the paint. I like the two tone paint job, including the lower fender and door area. Don

Robert, I have been reviewing the progress on your 52' Buick. I noticed you mentioned going to Cars, Inc to buy the trunk emblem rubber. I bought one from CARS for my 52' Buick Super and I had to modifiy the outer hole cutouts to fit the my emblem. Because of the contour on my Super trunk lid, the top center does not touch the trunk lid, leaving an open gap of about 1/8". I found another website that I want to check out that better matches my old rubber. The website is www.steelrubber.com. They are in Denver, NC. Their items are more expensive but what I was looking for better matched the original parts. Have you used this company for parts? Don (2Buicks)

Nick, Welcome to the forum of Classic Buick owners. Your 51' Buick Super 4dr looks great. Waiting to see more pictures posted. hope you are able to resolve your ignition switch soon so you can enjoy driving the beautiful car on the road. Congratulations again for joing the forum. Don (2Buicks)

Bill, I enjoyed following your restoration project from the beginning to the addition of the fender skirts. Your car looks fantastic from all the love and hard work you and your garage buddies did during restoration. I have a 52' Buick Super that I want to add skirts to and was interested in what you found for your 53' Super Convertible. Are they metal or fiberglass? Don (2Buicks)

I noticed your engine installation has the glass bowl gas filter entering the carburator. Was this standard on the 1952 Buick. My 1952 Super does not have one. Looking at my car, it does not show/look like the fuel lines have been modified. 2Buicks

Thank you for your comments. I don't have any records of what may have been done in the engine compartment from prior owners. I updated the pictures from my earlier posting to show the oil filter and added a left and right side view of the engine compartment. The VIN ID indicates this car was manufactured in Kansas City, KS. I will provide pictures later after I take off air filter to better show valve cover decals. 2Buicks

Thank you for all the great comments. Here are two close up pictures of the oil filter. You can see from the second picture the top decal is loose on the left hand side. Please let me know which location is correct for the '52 Buick Super. The top decal calls out "...AC P-127 Element" while the lower decal calls out "...AC F-127 Element".

I am trying to locate some used and/or replacement parts (NOS). What are some good websites to use. I have viewed/searched Cars, Inc, Steelrubber.com, Buickfarm.net, Bobsautombilia.com, clasicbuicks.com, e-Bay, and Amazon websites. 2Buicks

Sorry for your loss and to bring this old thread up, but if you need any assistance Joyce, my Son lives in Tehachapi and can help out.