Sweet64rivi

My seat was stuck and would not move up/down or front/back. A friend and I were able to easily remove the seat motor. Took it apart easily and turned out it was just 50 year old grease as hard as asphalt. I had to use my 210 pounds of girth to press the worm gear against a plank of wood to get the gear to separate. I soaked it in kero, then cleaned the entire unit with some WD-40. Applied a light grease to it and reassembled it. This part was tricky. My friend removed it without my help working from the back of the front seat but needed my help to replace it mainly to get the shaft aligned back in the mount. Now she slides like a hockey puck on ice.

Try a local airport. They probably offer 100 octane low lead aviation gas without the ethanol junk and less than the 5 gal jugs you can by in retail stores. just take them some 5 gal gas cans and they will pull up to your car with their fuel truck and fill you up. It's about $6.00 a gal here in PA.

Brad Penn makes an oil exactly for your needs: http://www.penngrade1.com/Default.aspx

I guess Chrysler, now fully owned by a foreign corporation Fiat, will do the same to the other brand they are majority owners in, Ferrari.

I noticed he also had it listed on ebay back in November for a grand more. He took "best offer" but looks like it fell through. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1967-buick-sport-wagon-/281208713873?forcerrptr=true&item=281208713873&pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item4179587291&nma=true&si=q1uzh7gUBrgqRWrXCu3Vi5qExQs%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

Not mine but hope they find a good home! 1957 buick special rivera hardtop nailhead v8 - $5500 (York pa) http://york.craigslist.org/cto/4299315669.html 1941 buick 2dr special - $3000 (Crownsville) http://baltimore.craigslist.org/cto/4306274127.html 1937 Buick Sedan- Straight Eight - $1500 (Lancaster) http://lancaster.craigslist.org/cto/4280099477.html

You'd be the coolest grandpa around. Here is one listed in the Harrisburg PA CL located in Lewisberry, PA http://harrisburg.craigslist.org/cto/4258576045.html. Not sure where you are located but I'd be happy to go check it out for you.

Speaking of condensation make sure you all have the gas tanks topped off.

So I can just twist them of like a bottle cap without removing the cowl & vents? Again, In don't want to break anything by trying to twist off the chrome windshield washer spray nozzles. That or have a connecting nut below the cowl fall off if twisting off the chrome spray nozzle.

Thieves usually don't lurk on the grounds. cant say I recall anyone's car getting stolen. They sit at the truck stops and hotel parking lots waiting to catch a sleeping overnighter. To sleep better, pull the battery and a plug, rent a GPS tracker from any electronic shop.

Good question. I emailed Antique Auto Battery to get a price for my 64 Rivi and they quoted $270.00 plus $37.00 shipping. Pics look nice and they claim they are hand made. So I to would like to know too if they are good and last long.

Do those chrome knobs twist off? Think mine may be clogged but don't want to break anything.

so how'd it end up? Mine stopped working.

Take one of the break pedal. 6500 miles is hard to believe unless you have a history to prove it.

What car is your friend looking for?

My 64 suffered some of the same problems. The seat motor did not move in any direction. Just as Jim said, it's an easy fix. First check the wiring and make sure it's got juice. Mine did so my friend pulled the seat motor and he was able to remove the motor without removing the seat. We took it apart and it was 50 year old grease as hard as dried asphalt. I really had to put a lot of pressure to disconnect the worm gear. We cleaned it up and re-lubed it and she runs as the day it was new. As for the window it could be the same thing. My right rear made a horrible noise and took a long time to go up and down and did not close fully. When the window was down I used WD-40 and sprayed it with the tube aiming it inside & outside of the window front and back.. So much that it leaked out the drain hole in the bottom of the body panel. The verdict is that it now moves smoothly, quietly and fully up and down. Don't know if this is the right fix but I got lucky I guess.

I found one hung of junk in Eastern PA. I went to the Buick Owners Of Maryland (B.O.O.M) car show in August and saw 2 beautiful 65 GS's.

I highly recommend Brad-Penn Motor Oil: Penn Grade 1 High Performance Oil. Made in Pennsylvania with PA high grade crude oil. http://www.penngrade1.com/Default.aspx

UPDATE: His insurance company offered him an exchange but he changed his mind and kept the cash. He's getting up there in age, has no where to store it and it was damaged after being stolen and driven while not secured in the trailer. http://lancasteronline.com/article/local/929907_Recovered-antique-Ford-Model-A-rejected-by-former-owner--84.html

www.pure-gas.org that list gas stations that sell non-ethanol pure gas.

I had a slight hesitation in my 425 nailhead. I bought a can of carb cleaner and followed the directions for cleaning the outside of the carb and the inside and I gave the inside a good cleaning. Result is no more hesitation. It looked clean to begin with but I was amazed at the amount of gum and varnish on the inside and outside that was removed. I use Marvel Mystery Oil and from time to time buy 5 gallons of 100 octane low lead aviation gas from the local airport to mix with the lower octane non ethanol gas. The lead also helps add lubrication but you gotta watch the buildup on the plugs. I am fortunate to have several gas stations in my area that sell non ethanol pure gas but not in the higher octane my nailhead likes. Check out pure-gas.org to see if there are any stations near you. As for the Stabil ethanol treatment, go to their website and read the fine print. it does not protect non-metal parts ie rubber and plastics, just the metal. If your motor was rebuilt you should be able to run ethanol, if not, buy pure gas.

Grainy sounds like normal rust. If you have a sample of it take it to a local rad shop. I did something similar as described by TexasJohn55 to my 64 Riviera. I found a detailed description with photos by searching this site. I went to Lowes and bought 4 feet of blue discharge hose and a foot of 1 inch hose/tubing and a couple clamps. All for less than $10. I removed the thermostat and added a bottle of coolant flush and followed the instructions. I drained and flushed with water from the garden hose. I took out the right engine block drain plug. It was blocked and I opened it up by poking through the sludge with a thin screwdriver. I then disconnected the bottom rad hose from the radiator. I slid the garden hose into the 1 foot x 1 inch hose and secured with duct tape. I then stuck the hose into the bottom rad hose and clamped it. I then disconnected the top rad hose from the radiator. Then clamped the blue discharge to the top rad hose and stuck the other end in a 5 gallon bucket. I then turned on the garden hose and flushed out the motor completely. I was amazed about the amount of sediment and remains that was in there. Put in a new thermostat and gasket, new hoses and added 50/50 peak green and distilled water, bottle of red Line water Cooler and a bottle of NAPA Rad rust prohibitor & water pump lube. I also bought a cheap pair of panty hose and cut out an 8" diameter section and attached it to the top radiator hose pushing it slightly into the radiator then pulling over the nipple and rad hose and secured with a clamp. Drove it for about 150 miles and took out the filter only to again be amazed at the sandy metal flakes the pantyhose filter caught. About 2 tablespoons (so don't use this filter idea on a long trip for fear of overheating). I'll see if I can dig out some pics I took.

Here's a not so bad tune called Big, Long Buick from Big Joe and the Dynaflows: http://youtu.be/tT9HmGhGa0Y

Nothing like a crappy early 90's hairband singing about a Buick: http://youtu.be/ljI-kzK7wvY

Have any 26/27 radiator/hood Pontiac Indian Heads?