BORA72

Hello Gunsmoke, as I am not sure if Peter Riesen can find me a 661 distributor I would like to buy your 660 G. Do you have a new condenser you could add? You can email to clarify details regarding payment and shipping. My email: ok.tools2011@hotmail.com Thank you, Otto

Hello Gunsmoke, sorry for my late response and thank you for your offer. I am in contact with Peter Riesen from Switzerland. Peter is trying to find me a Delco 661 distributor (that´s the one Chrysler used on the CP 8 engine - single point, 8 cam). If Peter cannot find a 661 I will get back to you. Your 660G dual point, 4 cam should work as well. Thank you again! Greetings from Austria, Otto

I am looking for a complete distributor assembly for my 1932 Chrysler CP8 (Convertible Coupe) engine. The distributor installed on my engine is not correct. It turns in the wrong direction. Therefore, the engine is running without ignition advance. Any tips, hints and offers highly welcome. Many thanks & greetings from Europe / Austria, Otto Ottokar Kames Phone: +43-664-5343900

Hello Gunsmoke, thank you very much for your response. Me and my mechanic are familiar with the procedure of setting the valves and timing. The strange thing is that both Manuals I have are stating that intake valve opens 6 degrees after TDC. When installing the sprockets with the marks correctly alligned we would have axactly that. Opening of the intake valve appr. 7 degrees after TDC. As you state - this seems strange and incorrect to me as well. I never had an engine (and I own several pre-war cars) with the intake valve opening after TDC. A few degress before would be normal. When mounting the sprockets with the the marks one tooth off we would have a "rather normal" valve timing with intake valve opening around 10 degrees before TDC and exhaust closure of around 3 degrees after TDC. That´s how the engine was essambled before I had to remove the sprockets because one tooth was broken. I had the sprocket re-manufactured in the meanwhile. The information from the shop and owners manual remains a miracle. Maybe someone else has an explanation for me? Thanks again, Otto

Hello Chrysler Pre-War Car Friends & Experts! After disasembly of the engine from my 1932 Chrysler CP8 Convertible I found the timing marks on sprockets one tooth off. With tappet clearance of 0,15 and 0,20 millimeters (0,006 and 0,008") it gave me intake valve opening around 10 degrees before TDC and exhaust closure of around 3 degrees after TDC. The engine was running nice with this set up before disassembly. With the sprockets spot on I found intake opening 7 degrees AFTER TDC and exhaust closoure at around 20 degrees after TDC. The 1932 Chrysler Instruction book and the Motor´s Factory Flat Rate Manual say that the intake valve should open 6 degrees AFTER TDC. This would be the setup with the timing marks on sprockets correctly installed. I am wondering if the 6 degrees opening of intake valve after TDC are realy correct? This would be the first engine I know which does not have the intake valve opening before TDC. Any information, expertise and recommendations from Chrysler experts, maybe an owner of a Chrysler CP or a later car with the 299 CUI Straitght 8 engine will be highly welcome and appreciated. Many thanks, greetings from Austria, Otto PS. Attached is the information regarding valve timining from the "1932 Chrysler Eight Instruction Book Code CP" and from the "Motor´s Factory Flat Rate and Shop Manual".

Thank you, Gunsmoke! I already bought a 1932 Chrysler Master Parts Book from Faxon Autoliterature. It will take a few weeks until it arrives in Europe /Austria.

I am trying to find new (NOS or replacement) bearings for the 4-speed transmission (I believe it´s the original and correct transmission) from my 1932 Chrysler CP8 Convertible Coupe. I do not have a Chrysler Master Parts Book for 1932 yet. I am looking for the Chrysler Part Numbers for the transmission bearings. The original Part Numbers would support my search for correct bearings. Pictures of the transmission and the bearings attached. Any expertise and tips & hints highly welcome and appreciated! Thank you! Greetings from Europe / Austria, Otto

Hello Jay, thank you for your message. I already sent you an email earlier today. Best regards, Otto

Dear Jay, I need the following parts for my 1932 Chrysler CP8 Convertible Coupe. I started a "parts needed" topic a couple of hours before your post went online yesterday. There you can find pictures of the transmission and the bearings I need. I can send the pictures again. PARTS NEEDED: - Rear wheel brake cylinder banjo fitting, left and right - Front spring rebound bumpers left and right (one is missing on my car) - Clutch disc (will try to have mine repaired and re-lined locally) - Clutch throw-out bearing. - All shock absorber bushings (front and rear) - All leaf spring bushings (front and rear) - All (available) transmission bearings. The bearing from the free-wheeling unit is the most important one. It´s completely worn / gone. - The 2nd / reverse gear. It has 32 teeth. One tooth was broken and has been welded on in earlier days. - Timing chain sprockets. At least the small one where one tooth is partially broken on my engine. - Engine Bolt / Screw which attaches the silencer (harmonic balancer – which I already had rebuilt by a company in California) to the crankshaft (maybe I can have it machined locally). - Rear engine mount - Rear transmission mount (called "saddle mount") I could arrange pick-up and shipping by my own. I am living in Europe / Austria. Thank you, Otto

Thank you, keiser31! I will check tomorrow when back in my garage.

I am trying to find new (NOS or replacement) bearings for the 4-speed transmission (I believe it´s the original and correct transmission) from my 1932 Chrysler CP8 Convertible Coupe. The bearing from the free wheeling unit is the worst. This bearing has no numbers on it. All other bearings are showing wear as well. If I can find fitting bearings I would be happy to replace all of them. Pictures of the tranny and bearings attached. I am looking for details (bearing numbers, cross references, etc.) and sources where I could buy matching bearings. Any expertise and tips & hints highly welcome and appreciated! Thank you! PS. I wound need the 2nd/reverse gear and the engine timing chain sprockets (at least the small one) as well. Greetings from Europe / Austria, Otto

I am struggling to find parts for my 1932 Chrysler CP8 Convertible Coupe. PARTS NEEDED: - Rear wheel brake cylinder banjo fitting, left and right - Front spring rebound bumpers left and right (one is missing on my car) - Clutch disc (will try to have mine repaired and re-lined locally) - Clutch throw-out bearing. - All shock absorber bushings (front and rear) - All leaf spring bushings (front and rear) - All (available) transmission bearings. The bearing from the free-wheeling unit is the most important one. It´s completely worn / gone. Pictures of transmission / bearings attached. - The 2nd / reverse gear. It has 32 teeth. One tooth was broken and has been welded on in earlier days. - Timing chain sprockets. At least the small one where one tooth is partially broken. - Engine Bolt / Screw which attaches the silencer (harmonic balancer – which I already had rebuilt by a company in California) to the crankshaft (maybe I can have it machined locally). Any offers or tips and hints where I could get the parts are highly welcome! Greetings from Europe / Austria, Otto

Thank you for clarification and the part#.

Thank you, will do. Attached are pictures of the disassembled transmission which I received from the previous owner of the car.

Hello, I need a synchronizing drum for second speed gear on my 1938 Buick Series 40, Model 46-S. Does anybody have a good (NOS) for sale? The following part is for sale on eBay: NOS GM 1297852 DRUM; MANUAL TRANS. SECOND GEAR 1934-1937; SPECIAL (SERIES 40) https://www.ebay.com/itm/294502660278 Can anybody advice if this part will fit into my tranny. My transmission is not disassembled yet. Any help, tips & hints welcome and appreciated! Greetings from Europe / Austria, Otto PS. Here´s some information which I found regarding interchangability. I cannot proof if it´s correct:

Engine number is C15585.

Hello again, I inspected the car some days ago. I am attaching a picture of the body plate. Wheelbase is 125" -> Commander. The car has been fully restored in 2018-2019 and driven barely afterwards. Quality of the restoration is very nice. Overall I would say it´s a condition #2+ car. Bare metal repaint, new floors, engine and all mechanics rebuilt, new wiring, etc. There are some non-period correct repairs and upgrades for drivability and safety. Electronic ignition (original parts available), switchboard with fuse box for startix and more installed under the dash. Heater pipes / fittings and re-manufactured air filter in stainless steel. Taillights are wrong (not oval). Split rear bumper is correct with the luggage rack. (referring to an earlier comment from studeq) Engine is starting and running excellent. No smoke at all, good compression. I will have a test drive on Thursday next week (there was still snow and salt on the roads when inspecting the car 2 weeks ago). I will probably buy the car and bring it to my garage on Friday. Asking price is USD 55.000,-. I think that's reasonable / fair? Best regards, Otto

Dear All, thank you very much for your answers and the information provided. Very useful and clarifying! I will post more pictures and details after inspecting the car next Friday. Two more questions: - How about parts availability? Are there any sources? I already own a 1931 Stutz, a 1934 Auburn, a 1939 Lincoln Model K and some others. So I am aware of the challenges I might be facing 😥. My cars are no "trailer queens". I use to drive them, sometimes under hard conditions when attending rally's in the Austrian Alps. - What would be the value / price for a similar "good" (I assume it will be condition # 2-3) car in the US? Best regards, Otto PS. Some pictures when driving my cars - in case anyone is interested in:

Thank you RBK, I will check the serial number when inspecting the car next Friday.

Hello,I am thinking about buying a 1932 Studebaker Coupe offered locally in Europe/Austria to add it to my collection. I will inspect the car by end of next week.The car is offered as a 1932 Commander Series Eight Regal?The engine is described as a 4100 ccm / 250 cui straight eight with 102 BHP.I found an older advert where the car was offered as a president?I will continue my search.I am attaching the few pictures I received so far.It would be great to get some details from the Studebaker experts! Is it a Dictator, a Commander, a President? Is the engine correct?Maybe someone knows the car?Any expertise would be higly welcome!Thank you for your support!Best regards,Otto

I already e-mailed Jay Astheimer. It seems he does not have a matching head. Thanks!

Hello, I am looking for a good, non-cracked G70 cylinder head for a 1926 Chrysler. From a previous post in the forum I learned it should be part # 53948 being the standard one or a # 75616 being a red head. Any tips, hints and offers higly welcome. Thanks! Attached are pictures of the head I repaired on the car. However, I would prefer to buy a non-cracked head in addition. Thank you for your support, Otto

Hello again to the Early Chrysler Community, for all of you interested in: I repairded the cracked head. I had the crack laser welded, installed a "bandage" with heat resistent and flexible sealing and hat the head surface grinded. I installed the head yesterday and had the engine running for 30 minutes. Everything fine. No leaking, no overheating. Attached is a picture of the repaired head. However, I would still be interested in purchasing a correct, non-cracked cylinder head. I learned from you, I need a a G70 cylinder head, # 53948 being the standard one or a # 75616 being a red head. I will start a seperate post to search fo a fitting head. Thanks again, best regards & greetings from Austria, Otto

Hello again, late Christmas Wishes from Austria to the whole community! Take care, stay healthy. I repaired the cracked cylinder head in the meanwhile. Laser welding did not work out perfect as the cast material is very old and porous. Still some minor leaking after laser welding. Therefore I installed an "metal plate cover" in addition. I will bring the head to the engine shop for pressure testing next week again. Hopefully no more leaking. Fingers crossed. I will post some pictures of the repaired cylinder head once the job has been completed successfully. Could anyone please advice regarding the torque specs when installing and fastening the repaired head? I would still be interested in buying a good / not cracked head for the G70 engine. Any leads and recommendations highly appreciated and welcome. Best regards, Otto

Hello Viv and Keiser31 & the whole community, thank you very much for the information you provided to me so far! I am trying to find an older picture of the cylinder head, where the casting number is still visible. Not sure, if I will find the numbers on some pics. Is there a chance to find / buy a re-casted, NOS or good used cylinder head? I would be very thankful for any tips and hints! Best regards, Otto