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Bob Barrow

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Everything posted by Bob Barrow

  1. I did not know that the T C had a north south V/8 & rear wheel drive! "WOW" Bob B.
  2. Wheelsport, are you referring to the actual conv. top or the cloth headliner? If headliner I had same problem, cloth tube that slides on to cross rib, . repaired while top was being replaced. Bob
  3. Jim Bird, & Vonblood, I like Jim, will only be able to be there one day,Sunday. I have previous comittments for Sat. I hope to meet up with Vonblood on Sunday. Bob Barrow
  4. Vonblood, are you going to be there Sat. & Sun.? I have a TC here in Windsor ont., Across from Detroit & am considering to driving up on Sunday & will try to hook up with you. I will not be showing my car. I am trying to get to know TC owners in the area. I know there is one in London & one in Hamilton. Let me know what your plans are. Bob Barrow
  5. Hi, Coronet440, I am having similar problems,(4 years), Where did you get the part # for the paddle switch? I have been led to believe that they are no longer available new. I wonder where Larry C.,(TC Parts) gets parts to repair them. He offers a service to repair these assy's. I would think to ship that assy., to Arizona from Canada for repairs would cost a fortune. That is why I am trying to repair it myself thanks, Bob Barrow.
  6. This note for "Digger". Digger I have fighting with my pull down assy., for four years. I was talking with your buddy Bob French, and asked him if he thought I could contact you for some parts issues with the assy., and he said yes (blame him). I have a known good motor, have replaced the clear plastic housing with the new black one from T C Parts (Larry C.),replaced the gears 4 times. Have now determined that the problem may be the paddle switch. I have 3 Thanks, Bob Barrow part numbers, 16603820, which is the one on the assy. 16629927, which Bob F., thinks is the one from Cadillac's (just one switch (paddle, no secondary small black switch) & 16603372, unknown. Currently the assy., is intermittent. I currently live in Windsor Ont, & winter in Florida & may take my assy. to the T C meet in Lakeland in Nov. & give it to Larry to take back to Arizona to repair I was wondering if Larry is able to get paddle switches to make repairs. If you are interested I could give you my E Mail and if you could respond with a phone #, I could call you .
  7. Checkmate, I found the name of the fellow that I got the side clips from. Roger Frazee, 663 Norris Shores Drive, Sharps Chapel, TN, 37866. Sorry I did not get his Ph. number. Good luck, Bob Barrow
  8. Checkmate, I had a fellow in Tennessee send me some last year, & he to buy a whole box of them. I will try & find info tomorrow let me know. Bob
  9. If you are going to use a Lebaron windshield, make sure it is for a 1989 Lebaron convertible. I researched this last year & Safelite could order one for you. The only trouble that some of the guys had was to make sure there was enough butyl (adhesive) put into the lower outside corner to make sure that you don't end up with a leak. Also make sure you have extra clips for the side stainless mouldings, as I am told they break when removing these moulding's. The plastic gets very brittle after 25 years. Bob Barrow
  10. Hemi, thanks for all the help. I am my own mechanic, so I do all my own work. I retired from Chrysler Canada after 43 years, 18 years ago. I was a service engineer which included writing service bullletins, working with chrysler mechanics on the hot line etc., Anyway I have checked the original relay and first purchased one by removing the cover & checking the contacts. Everything looked OK. I will give you the voltage readings the next time I arrive home with problem. I thought the rad fan came on if the A/C was engaged no matter what the engine temp was. Do you know if the voltage from the SMEC, Dark/Blue,Pink * is a ground, 5 volts or 12 volts? I know the Grey wire has 12 volts,& Lt, Green (to rad fan) has 12 volts after I tap the relay. I am not sure what the white wire (B1) is supposed to be. It shows on page 30 of wiring diagram tha it goes toB1 slice on page 66. Can't find that. Hope this helps you. I am out of options. Also I drove the car a couple of days ago(temp 91) after I squeezed real hard on relay to harness & for the first time it seamed to work. I was thinking about trying to squeeze wire end connections in the harness where the blades of the relay contact. I hope this does not make you think to hard> Thanks again. Bob
  11. Thanks for the quick reply. I should have mentioned that the car is a 1990 3.0 litre. I have replaced the relay 4 times from 4 different suppliers. The part # i have been using is 5233212 . The reason I monitor the temp gage is that it will overheat if I don't tap the relay. The car has only 30000 miles on it. Bob
  12. This is to Hemi-Dude & Digger 14. My comment about using a screwdriver handle was to turn on the rad fan by tapping the relay. was because I have to watch the temp gage while driving (especially with A/C on) & when it gets over 3/4 I have to stop & get ,open up the hood & tap relay & fan comes on immediately. I have checked all 4 terminals on relay with a volt meter & test light & everything is OK. I also checked all terminals on relay plug for corosion & sprayed with contact cleaner. Any ideas? Thanks, Bob Barrow.
  13. I have had problems with my rad fan relay. I have replaced it 4 times in last 2 years for fan not coming on(overheating). When temp gage gets up to 3/4 I have to go under the hood and tap the relay with screw driver handle & fan comes on. It is driving me crazy. Tried fan relay's from 4 different companies. Anyway to identify which relay is for fan, there are 2 relays on left fender area behind the shock tower, one for fan, & one for A/C clutch. The fan relay wires on plug end are 14GY, 14LG, 18WT, 20DB/PK* . A/C relay wires are 14GY, 14DB, 20DKBL/OR*, 20DKBL/OR*. This info is from my TC service manual. Also if anybody has any suggestions as to why I have to hit my rad fan relay to energize it I would like some help. Thanks, Bob Barrow
  14. Hi, Jim,noticed your post and wondering where you are located in Canada? I have a TC here in Canada (Windsor Ont.).I seen another TC here and am trying to find him. Bob Barrow
  15. Hey vonblood, just read your post about road rally you attended in Michigan. I own a TC here in Windsor Ont.,across from Detroit and was wondering if there any local meets or get togethers in lower Michigan for TC owners. You can contact me at boblorna2@gmail.com Bob Barrow
  16. I know that you cannot switch seat tracts,left to right,but does anybody know if the seats are the same less the track assembly. They seem to look similar. I would like to switch seats as the left is showing a little wear, as the right looks new. I do not want to go through removing seats & find out that I cannot switch them. Thanks,, Bob
  17. I agree with digger, but also make sure the idle bypass passage is clear of carbon buildup. This is what controls idle speed. If the passage is partially blocked, the computer does not know it may be blocked. Good luck. Bob
  18. There is no idle adjustment screw on your 3.0 Mitsubishi engine. The idle speed is controlled by an electronic idle speed motor which is controlled by the engine controller. Maybe you should be checking for any fault codes in the system. Any Chrysler Dodge dealer can check for fault codes. in the past I have found a poor electrical connection at the idle speed motor in the throttle body. Bob Barrow
  19. Hey, Digger14,I need to know a part #. I have been trying to find a picture & number of a certain part. If you do have a parts book, could you send me your "E" mail address & I will try and explain my dilemma. Bob Barrow boblorna2@gmail.com Thanks.
  20. Glad you got your speedo repaired. I was surprised to find that instrument lights were red.They really are not very bright at night.Also you were right about your comments about the front struts replacement. Got one done, and a one hour job turned into a 4hour job. Tough job doing it alone on the floor. Bob Barrow
  21. I need to replace front sway bar bushings (dried out & noisy). I have noticed that under various parts listings that they mention bushings for 1 1/8" & 1 1/16" diameter sway bars. My vehicle is a 1990 with 3.0 V/6. Anybody know which would be the correct bushings? Thanks, Bob
  22. I just purchased a used brake accumulator from a junkyard here in Florida. Car did not come in for no brakes, but engine issues. I bought it for a spare and was wondering after reading the service manual, do you have to bleed both front & rear brakes if you are just changing the accumulator, even though the brake system is working fine. My car currently takes about 7 stabs at brake pedal before red light comes on. I was just wondering if I could switch accumulator's just to test the just purchased part. Any info would be appreciated. Bob
  23. Bob French, yes I am aware of info on lower center of glass. I am really trying to find out info about removing upper plastic/vinyl garnish that is located between the sunvisors and above rear view mirror.I am sure it just pops off, but don't want to start digging with a screwdriver or plastic prying tool in order not to damage it. Any help from anyone that has witnessed removal of that part would be appreciated. Bob
  24. To, Alfieri, thanks for the input. I realize that I should be replacing my windshield with a genuine "M" glass. I just went through changing the rear convertible glass with a non "M" glass. My car is a fairly low mileage car (29000) & it deserves an original glass. But I don't think there are no new ones available & if so shipping would be very costly. Thanks for your input. Bob Barrow
  25. Hemi dude , the installer is aware that it is the same windshield as a Lebaron, but he says the upper horizontal garnish mldg. is different and does not want to take a chance in wrecking. He is the only glass guy that will try to do it. There is other TC's in this area, as he has never seen one. Bob
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