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keithb7

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Everything posted by keithb7

  1. Are you whacking the drum or the puller tool? Don’t whack the drum. Is there an option of re-installing all drums. The stubborn one, back the nut off, but not all the way. Leave the nut on a few threads. Drive the car around in an open safe area. Turn in circles to put stress on the stubborn drum. So it tends to want to separate, away from the axle. Tires on pavement will maintain good stress, as opposed to dirt road. I’m imagining swerving a moderate speeds. With enough driving and lateral stress, it may pop free. The nut will protect the drum from falling right off. Not ideal. But neither is wrecking the drum in other failed attempts.
  2. Check out https://p15-d24.com/forum/3-the-forums-of-p15-d24com-mopar-cars-and-trucks-from-mid-1930s-to-late-1950s/
  3. The one I sorta find funny is “What’s the fuel economy?” I really don’t know. I really don’t care. How can you put a price on what fuel costs are per mile, to drive the car you put all your blood sweat and tears into? Totally irrelevant. A better question might be “How much does shipping cost every time you need a replacement part?”...Sigh. Way too much.
  4. Yet another Sunday afternoon in the shop with my '38...I sure enjoy being able to do this.
  5. Electric cars...Meh. They’re still all part of eating up this planet. We’ve had a good run. Those alive to actively participate in this forum have had it pretty darn great on this planet. I’m not a big fan of the electric car. I’m not convinced its the answer. Look up Cobalt Mining in Africa. Its needed for battery production. Where does plastic come from? I believe refined oil. Copper wire for all those Tesla drive motors? Mining. Electricity. Where’s it coming from? Nuclear and Hydro seem to be the majority producers. Damming and flooding valleys for more hydro power? Boy that’s a tough one to get approved these days. Anyone up for a nuclear power plant in their region? I don’t know what the answer is. Maybe its too heavy a question to sort out? I think so. Growth. Economy. Profits. Capitalism. Greed. The planet only has so much to give. I’m guilty. We’re all guilty. For now I plan to just keep my 1938 Detroit iron on the road for as long as I can. Isn’t that plan at least a little bit of a reduction of natural resources? The energy and resources needed to make my car is 83 years old. It still takes me out to buy groceries and visit friends today. Isn’t it better for the environment that I use those resources as long as possible? Good for the economy? Nope.
  6. Sorry I misread your post about setting them cold. Have you insured the piston is at TDC, compression stroke for each pair of valves? I will wiggle the tappets to double check. This ensures both valves are fully closed. By wiggling I can then feel the tappet clearance as the camshaft ramp is fully backed off the tappet. Then I proceed to set that pair of valves. Turn the crank 120 degrees and do the next set. And so on, progressing thru each cylinder's valve pairing . Following the order of 1 5 3 6 2 4. If you still get ticking you may have other problems.
  7. I’ve had good luck setting them cold too. Maybe consider that? Let it cool overnight. Set them at .002” wider than the spec listed. I had success with my ‘38 doing it that way.
  8. I have a 1949 Canadian Mopar service manual here. I can view schematics of 1949 C45 and C46 models. The circuits are different as the C46 seems to have more bells and whistles. Including electric door locks, and electric convertible motor. The C45 has one 3 amp window wiper motor circuit breaker and another circuit breaker (amp rating unspecified in the schematic) for the entire lighting circuit. It's right off the ammeter, then on to both the live wired lights, (door jamb interior lamps, brake lamps), and also headlamp switch controlled lights. The C46 has an 8 amp circuit breaker that feeds the window wiper motor. Then another 30 amp circuit breaker. It protects the head light switch circuit, glove box light, map and panel light switch, some type of front & rear door switches (electric locks I assume). I also see a 3rd circuit breaker. It seems to mainly protect the semi-auto shift system for the transmission. (shift solenoid, interrupter switch, anti-stall switch). I'm still learning here too. It seems odd to me that there is no circuit breaker for the C46 convertible roof motor. It pulls power right off the starter lug (battery wire) to a switch. Gotta be quite a heavy amp-rated switch I suspect to run that motor. Seems questionable today. I don't see any ground wires needed for flashers. The circuit is grounded at each signal bulb. Circuit breakers. Help me understand. Are they designed to kill the circuit once the amp draw going thru them gets too high? A thermal switch that automatically resets once it cools down? I can see a wiper motor, or all the headlights are needed for safety. Too high of a draw, yet a person still needs to get home. So it cools and resets, as opposed to a fuse that melts and cannot be re-set? Sorry @Handyman I may not have answered your question. Only added some color and raised more questions.
  9. As time moves on and automobiles keep changing, my old '38 Plymouth seems to get better and better to me somehow.
  10. Left side of bumper sticker read “Passing Side”. Right side read “Suicide”. Another one I saw, left read “El Paso”. The right side “El Crasho”.
  11. Today I put some quality time into the rad nose cone. Grinding and drilling out very rusty, seized 83 year old hardware. Got it all out! Using a hammer and dolly I beat old damage straight again. It should be a lot easier to reinstall hopefully.
  12. I have a ‘38 Plymouth. For reasons mentioned here, my recent brand-new bias tires were blackwall. Never once did I consider WW tires for my ‘38 car. My Plymouth, the cheapest of the Mopar line up. Now, my ‘53 Chrysler? Absolutely. Wide whitewalls. Spare tires got me thinking. By the mid- 30’s were flats still a very common thing? I could see flats being a major problem for early horseless carriages. There were horses losing shoes and nails everywhere on roads. I just cannot imagine WW tires on this car.
  13. Before I took my 1953 engine apart I took a photo and scribed the distributor housing. To ensure I reassemble it properly. Your oil pump drive tab will need to be indexed to match this position. So that the tang that drives the distributor, lines the rotor up in the position seen here.
  14. Matt, I am unsure of your laws in the USA. Do you have a sales document with all the fine print that the purchaser signs when he/she buys a new car? The customer signs it, you are protected. If the buyer refuses to read it, that's his fault. If indeed you see common things in the vintage car sales industry that keep re-appearing, you point them out and have that discussion with the buyer. Up-front you are warning him politely that as a buyer, if he does not do his research and comes up in a bind, it's not your problem. Where does it end? Where do you draw the line on holding buyer's hands? You take on the stress, it wears you down and hurts your business. There must be countless examples where things could go off the rails. The longer you are in business you will be exposed to more and more issues that you've had to deal with. Your business dealings will eventually become easier as you learn how to deal with these customers up front. A scenario, I imagine selling my 1938 Plymouth: Daily driver? Look around. How many pre-war cars do you see on the road every day? Does it stop well? For 1938 my car stops very well. It has skinny tires and non-auto adjusting brakes, without ABS. It has a single reservoir brake master cylinder. Can it drive a freeway speeds? Well in 1938 there were no interstate roads. Top road speeds were about 50 mph. Many roads were dirt. There are no seat belts and no crumple zones in the car. No turn signals. As a seller do I really need to point out these things to protect myself in the sale of it?
  15. After some research I was able to determine that there was good chance that the Gemmer steerting gearbox in my 38 Plymouth, would contain the same parts used in a same period Ford. The housings and design of the Ford and Plymouth Gemmer steering gearboxes are likely different, however I estimated, "Why would the same company redesign all the internal wearing parts?" Indeed they did not redesign all the internal parts. I ordered my Plymouth steering gears parts from an old Ford cars parts business. The bearings are Timken so good quality. The company I bought from had good selection and photos for every part. Between my Hollander Interchange and my 6th edition Motors manual, plus having my gear box apart, I was able to nail it all down. I rolled the dice and ordered the parts. They arrived here in Canada, shipped from California, in only 2 days. The pricing was better than anything I'd seen on Ebay. Or any of the Mopar suppliers. I feel like I got good quality parts, great selection, good prices, and reasonable freight costs. Do your homework folks. Check the parts out here: https://cgfordparts.com/ufolder/selecttitle.php?c=1&s=7&g=64 Comparing the new parts that arrived, I think I have a perfect fit!
  16. Excellent responses. Thank you everyone. I am enlightened.
  17. According to my Hollander interchange '35-'37 Airflow 8 same differential. Also same as '37-'39 Dodge truck differential. Ring gears, pinions, '34-'37 Airflow same. Dodge truck '37. MD15 ,16, 20,21. ME20, 21,22, 3/4T-1T. Dodge Truck '39 TD20, 21 Good luck.
  18. I am hoping to get a few pointers to understand the theory behind vacuum and centrifugal advance of distributor spark timing. I hear that 100 year old or so cars, the spark timing was manually retarded to start the engine. Often by turning a lever on the steering wheel. This was to prevent an engine backfire while the crankshaft was slowly turning. The spark was manually advanced by the operator as soon as the engine was running. Vacuum: Does an engine make the most vacuum when the throttle valve is mostly closed, such as 1/4 throttle and less? I’m imaging 6 cylinders trying to suck air through the carb. With throttle valve closed, intake manifold vacuum should be high. Correct? The vacuum advance pot has a spring in it. It works opposite direction on the vacuum pot action? When the engine is off, the mechanical spring retards the timing. Holds it there. So timing is retarded when the engine first fires up. Like the 100 year old cars mentioned above. As soon as the engine fires up, vacuum overcomes the spring. The timing is advanced from the earlier retarded position. Correct? As the throttle valve is opened, the engine speeds up. Does manifold vacuum drop? Rendering the vacuum advance less effective? The spring might start to pull the vacuum to the retard direction, however now as engine RPM increases, centrifugal advance takes over. The spark timing is a advanced to account for combustion travel rates within the cylinders, at higher piston travel speeds. I think I grasp all that pretty good. Where I struggle is when the engine is lugging. Say, climbing a steep hill. Engine RPM drops. Centrifugal advance loses speed. Throttle valve is now wide open or close to it. Driver chooses to stay in top gear, lugging the engine, using what torque the engine makes, to climb the hill. What is the intake manifold vacuum reading in this situation? I assume at least initially, less vacuum, as the throttle is wide open. With engine rpm down, is centrifugal advance doing much? Where should spark timing be in this scenario? Is the mechanical spring inside the vacuum advance pot now overcoming any vacuum? Retarding the spark timing again? Perhaps a lugging engine at WOT builds up good strong vacuum? Advancing the timing as it lopes up the hill? I’m unsure. I sometimes lay in bed as I fall asleep, wondering. So tonight I grabbed the iphone from my night table to ask. Thanks for any responses. I’ll read them in morning. Keith
  19. Wowzers! An exceptional car. You are very fortunate to own and be able to drive this fine automobile! You must get approached a ton by strangers when you take it out. Have you caused any accidents yet that you know of? Due to people “rubber-necking”? I’m smitten with it.
  20. I planned to rebuild my flat head engine. Well it turns out "waiting for parts" is my new winter hobby.
  21. Engine block was sent to machine shop. It was boiled and crack checked. Passed! Good to go. Now I am awaiting engine parts to arrive. I ordered everything from Vintage Power Wagons. While I am layed up waiting for engine parts, I took the rad nose cone off. I also pulled my Gemmer steering gearbox for overhaul. Parts for it have also been ordered. New bearings, seals, shims, gaskets.
  22. @Rusty_OTooleyou bring up a very interesting point. I do appreciate the room in my Mopar cars. I’m over 6 ft. I actually forget how small other cars can be until I get in one. Then I’m quickly made aware that I won’t be owning one.
  23. I’ve not personally pursued this career. However thinking about what skills I lack, I might suggest: Automotive technician program in a trade school. Also get your own old car to start getting in depth hands on experience asap. After school, land a professional job working on cars. Perhaps at a shop that specializes in classic and vintage cars. That would be a bonus. Take another class in welding. Maybe night school at a community college. Keep working. Learn from the experienced people working around you. When you feel ready, maybe start taking on some vintage car work at home on the side, if possible. Gather up some clients. Build up your reputation. When you ready to dive in, you may have to leverage everything you own. Your house, car whatever. To get tooled up and set up to open your own business. Take some business Management courses? Just book-smarts is not enough. You need real shop and hands on experience. You might as well get paid to get that. So go get it at your day job. Besides, in trade school they will likely focus on systems 5-10 years old and newer only. Skipping all the classic systems you’ll be working on. Time. It takes time. There is no substitute for experience. Good luck. Go for it!
  24. Last fall I attempted to recreate an old country road drive in my 38. Jump in and ride along.
  25. The issue that new owners usually encounter with these old Lockheed brakes, is understanding how to properly set them up. There is a major and minor brake adjustment. When set right, they work well. I had never worked on any brakes like these before. It did take me a little time to wrap my head around how they needed to be set up. Don't give up. Do a good amount of research. The shoes must be concentric to the drum and axle center. Not easily done without a handy little tool.
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