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keithb7

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Everything posted by keithb7

  1. That was me. Yes many parts were swapped and my head was scratched before I finally did a compression test. Then everything was revealed. Based on what happened to me, here is where I would start. The engine needs three things to happen run. Spark, at the right time, compression, and fuel. That's pretty well it it when you break it down. I was chasing spark when my problem was compression. 1. Pull plugs and crank over. Are you seeing sparks at plug tips? 2. Are you sure you are getting fuel? Pull air filter and look down throttle body of carb. Open throttle linkage a few times all the way. You should see raw fuel spray into the throttle body. 3. While plugs are out hook a compression gauge and measure all. Ensure battery is fully charged and throttle is wide open. Crank engine and take a compression reading for each cylinder. Starting here, you will find where to go next. Good luck. Keith
  2. Thanks Spinnyhill. I won't diasgree with you. It all makes sense. Brake fluid naturally absorbs moisture. Even from humidity in the air. Lately I have noticed the dragging is letting up a little. Maybe the more we use the car, corrosion is displacing. I guess I better order a puller so I can get the rear drums off. Get in the wheel cylinders and hone them a little.
  3. Hi folks, my 1953 Windsor Deluxe is showing signs of the brakes dragging. The rear brake lamps will stay on when this occurs. The brake light switch is up under the floorboards, about under the back seat passenger foot area. Not too far from the master cylinder. This leads me to assume that the brake pressure is being held up at the master cylinder. Maybe the small relief port in it? If the wheel cylinders were partially seizing, instead of the master cylinder, would the brake light go out when the foot pedal is released? I am planning to do some more testing. Maybe crack open a brake line fitting at the master cylinder, with the car on stands and see if the brakes release. Will that help me determine where the problem area is? Part of my problem is I do not have a puller yet to get the rear drums off. So getting access to the rear wheel cylinders is an issue for me. I do need to order a puller. I was hoping to find something local, and save some money. They are not cheap. Thanks for any tips of how I can determine exactly what is hanging up where. With the brake light staying on, after parking and shutting off the car, that leads me to the master cylinder. After about 15 mins the hydraulic pressure backs off and the brake lights go out. Then you can easily push/roll the car. Thanks in advance.
  4. Thanks folks. #6 intake valve was stuck open. Tappet was fine. All valve sufaces were pretty worn. As mentioned earlier I did a patch job here to enjoy the rest of the driving season. The repair turned out quite well. A few valve guides has a little more wear than others, but I left them all in. Seem to be no issue as I don't see any oil buring. I did not measure the top ridge. I did not want to go down a rabbit hole of repairs this summer. The ridge is not excessive. I'd guess .005 or so thick on some. Others pretty much almost nil. I remember my old 225 slant 6 in my '74 Dart when I was a teenager. It had quite a ridge when I tore into it by 1987. The car is getting regular use by my son and I. Pulling rad this week to flush it. Temp drop from top tank to bottom tank is about 20 to 25 F. I think I'd like to see more cooling there.
  5. Valve job done and car is running well with plenty more power and torque. I am not burning any oil that I can see. The car is running very smooth and the performance increase is very good. Before and after valve set Compression Test Results: Before Valve Job, Dry compression: 1 - 95 psi 2 - 70 psi 3- 95 psi 4 - 85 psi 5 - 85 psi 6 - 0 psi After Valve Job Dy Compression: 1. 100 psi 2. 100 psi 3. 105 psi 4. 105 psi 5. 105 psi 6. 95 psi
  6. I thought you folks might like this. My 1953 L6 needed valve work. I pulled it apart, hand cut the seats and hand lapped in new valves. New gaskets, head bolts ect. It's all back to together and running great again. I am amazed at how smooth and quiet these engine are. Good torque too. Next I plan to pull the water pump and check the water distribution tube. Not until after the big car show a month from now though. I can't get parts quick enough to risk it going down before the show. https://youtu.be/IUHH5BdFtvk This next one is back when I bought it in May: https://youtu.be/DFcZ869HiFc
  7. @Joe Cocuzza, I have decided to pass on the 1951 once I learned of all the differences. Today I noticed that the seller has lowered the asking price another $50. Someone will probably take it away for near nothing.
  8. Thanks! Thats awesome. I will email you later today.
  9. I own a 1953 Windsor Deluxe. It's new to me and I am still learning about it. Locally I found a 1951 Windsor for sale. It looks complete. Asking price is $500 Canadian. That's about $350 US Funds. The ad says the car is complete and was last running about 10 years ago. I was thinking this 51 Windsor may make a great parts car. Mine, and this one have the L6 engine. Not sure if they are the same. I am interested in learning what drivetrain/mechanical parts may be the same between this car and mine. My '53 has the fluid torque drive. I would have to confirm if the 51 is the same. The body designs look slightly different, glass, trim etc. I am not worried about those parts. I am thinking it would be nice to have spare parts from the radiator , right thought to the rear wheels. Any comments are appreciated. Here's the 1951 My 1953:
  10. I won't disagree and I will rebuild it completely. Just hoping not to have to do it right away this summer. I have some big financial commitments coming up. I need some time to squirrel some money away for a full proper rebuild. I plan to do it myself. I agree there is a risk of further damage by doing a repair. No hard driving planned this summer. Some local car shows in town 5 miles away was my plan. I was planning to pull the motor out this winter for a rear crank seal, oil pan gasket and torque oil transfer tube o-rings. I'll just plan to go all in and do a full rebuild. Either I patch it now, or park it until I start the rebuild in November. Hoping I don't have to do that.
  11. I have been thinking about this tonight. The car was new to me. First time I pull the plugs, this is the result. The previous owner was elderly. I have been going over areas of the car and seeing where he missed some things. 1 missing exhaust manifold nut. I missing nut on exhaust pipe to manifold bolt. Loose carb mounting nuts. Etc. No big deal, just stuff he missed. I might be lucky to still have his skills at his age. Thinking about when I pulled the plugs: The Chrysler L6 has a pretty deep dish cut into the head where to plugs thread in. Maybe the previous owner dropped a small nut or screw and could not find it. Maybe it fell in the dished area of the head, around the spark plug? It may have been sitting in there for some time. I pull the plugs from one side, leaning over a fender. It drops in the hole, unknown to me. First time I turn over the engine after putting the plugs back in, the part that dropped in, gets under the valve and then it bends. Could have happened. I will take a good look around in the manifolds and see if I can find anything. Cylinder 6 at 0 psi? I can see that the intake valve is not seated well, and not sealing. It may have been leaking for some time. One of these valves might have been my ticking exhaust noise culprit. I suspect he bent valve was the final nail in the coffin here. I will proceed to pull all valves and clean them up. Try and lap the seats for a good fit. I am betting this will put my compression numbers back up to a better level. Parts to repair are ordered. Like · Reply · Just now · Edited
  12. Just pulled the head. This car is by far the easiest car I have ever worked on. So quick to remove stuff. Something was going on in the rear two cylinders. The rear 3 valves are coated with something interesting. Not sure what it is. #5 intake and #6 exhaust, adjacent seem to be in the worst shape. Could it be build up on the valves from burning coolant? Its white-ish under the carbon when I attempt to scrape it off at valve. It does not appear to be carbon. #6 exhaust is not seating either. The head looked pretty good. I will hot tank it and check it for straight. I can't see any clear signs of leakage through the head gasket, but I am no expert. If possible I would like to attempt to do this repair with block still in the car. Is this possible? Maybe a patch repair for the summer, full rebuild this winter? I have bid on the valve spring compressor mentioned above. Compression readings are low all across, but would rather not do full rebuild at this time. Pull all valves? Test for sealing , try some lapping compound on the remaining good ones? New valves at rear where damage is seen? All new springs for all valves? The manual states to remove RF tire and inner fender access panel. Then I can access the valves and tappets from below. Thanks. Keith
  13. Keiser31, yes I found a valve stuck open. As mentioned this is old car new to me. Now I need to figure out how to tackle this. Back to more research in the manual. Tips are welcome about tackling this problem. Thx.
  14. Dry compression test results: 1 - 95 psi 2 - 70 psi 3- 95 psi 4 - 85 psi 5 - 0 psi 6 - 0 psi The 4 cylinders that did make compression are all low. Spec is 120 to 150 psi. Well that's certainly interesting. Next step? Pull head off to investigate further, or pull timing cover to inspect timing chain and can timing? Pull valve covers on side of block to investigate? Low psi across the board, has me thinking timing chain. Just my gut. Will wait for your replies. Last week the car ran good, car started easily. Car made power, burned no oil. Ran Clean and responsive.
  15. Spinnyhill, that's the magic question. What did I do to the car before this happened? It makes no sense so far, and I've re-traced my steps many times. I got up Sat morning. Stared the car normally in my garage. Ran fine. Backed it out. Turned it off. Pulled spark plugs to inspect. Cleaned and gapped them. Reinstalled. Topped up oil and put 3-4 drops from my dipstick on the generator bearing wick. That's it. I fired up the car and it ran with a bad miss ever since. I'm driving myself bonky trying to sort it out. New plugs, new wires, new points, new condensor, checked distributor timing, checked all wiring, firing order, rotor and cap. No improvements.
  16. Compression test to come tonight. Darn day job takes all my time. I thought of another point I'll have to consider. Valve lash and valve seating. Since purchasing the car in May, I've heard an exhast leak. Simlar to what I've heard when exhaust manifold gaskets are leaking. That pop-pop noise. I spent a little time trying to locate the leak. I torqued all intake and exh manifold hardware. I searched for manifold cracks. Signs of exhaust soot were not found anywhere. I checked exhust from manifold thru to muffler, not finding any signs of a leak. If an exhast valve were not sealing properly, I assume it might sound like what I am hearing. How this realates to my initial complaint, after changing plugs stumps me. However, the exhaust noise was there before I touched the spark plugs initially. Looking forward to getting the compression test done. More to come ASAP. Thanks for all your comments and assistance so far.
  17. My understanding is all plugs shoud be out. Wide open throttle. Fully charged battery. That way you pull in the most air possible to obtain an accurate reading. I was thinking I need to do 2 compression tests. 1 dry and record the results. Second time, dropping some oil in each cylinder right before testing each cylinder. If the compression reading does not improve with oil in cylinder, this would indicate a valve sealing problem. Or a valve timing problem maybe. The concern I have is somehow getting the oil past the valve and over to the cylinder. Looking down the spark plug hole, its right over the valves. Maybe a small piece of hose and a syringe? Insert hose, direct over cylinder and insert a few teaspoons of oil?
  18. Will plan to do compression test C49er. I need to pick up a few adaptors for my compression gage. Is the intent of the compression test to determine if valve timing is out? Reading the manual tonight there is little mention of getting the crank pulley off. I was thinking impact for bolt, followed by puller. Would the pulley center bolt be RH or LH thread? Thanks.
  19. New points installed and set to .020". New condenser installed. New spark plugs installed. New Plug wires installed. Crank aligned at #1 TDC and rotor pointed to distributor plug wire #1. No improvement. Feels and runs the same as before when I started this exercise. Engine will run but rough sounds out of time. Pulled distributor lock bolt so I could turn distributor past its adjustable range. Retarding timing engine ran worse. Advancing distributor past adjustable range with bolt in place, made no noticeable difference from when I began 2 days ago. Checked plug wire firing order again. 1,5,3,6,2,4. All correct. Other than the coil, not sure what's left to swap out. Cap and rotor look great. Any tips appreciated.
  20. Regarding turning engine by fan: The car is new to me. I have never owned a vintage car in the past. I posted the question on Sunday about turning the motor by hand. It took until today, Tuesday to get confirmation. I wanted to move ahead so I did what I needed to, to safely turn the engine over by hand based on what I knew at the time. I have read of instances where too tight of a belt will cause premature wear on generator bearings/bushings. Was easy to pull the rad anyway. Plus all my timing marks had new black paint on there and I could not see them. With the rad out, no problem cleaning the area up with a wire brush. No regrets. Sure is nice having lots of access to the area being worked on. Rotor is turning proper direction as wires are plugged in to cap. I have new points and condensor in hand now. Will install in a few hours and attempt to fire up engine again.
  21. Thanks for your help Bob. I appreciate it. The '53 Windsor Deluxe is new to me. I am learning of all it little quirks. Do you own, or have previously owned the 265 C.I. L6 Chrysler engine? I am hoping to find a reliable support group, as I know of no other owners currently. I am noticing a fair bit of play in the distributor. The cam for the points is pretty worn. Bushings are little sloppier than I'd prefer. A new Distributor is something I will have to consider down the road. The car did run, as it is, as mentioned. Regarding the comment I made earlier about the camshaft timing being out. I got to thinking further about that. I suppose if it were out, even 1 tooth, I would probably have very low compression readings. I did test a few cylinders, not all, yesterday and noticed I was a little low at 90 PSI. Seems to me, 90 indicates it's getting tired. Due to the dish in the head casting, it is very difficult to get a wrench around my compression test hose to get a good seal. I plan to buy a coupling to use on the hose so I can tighten it up properly. Then obtain accurate readings.
  22. Alright, so with #1 piston at TDC, distributor rotor is pointed toward spark plug lead wire #1. Crank pulley is labeled D.C. (Dead Centre I assume) at this position. Inserting pin in access hole at cylinder head #6 cylinder access confirms also. At this point #6 cylinder should be at top of exhaust stroke. I double checked, that when #6 cylinder is actually at TDC, rotor points to #6 wire position. That tells me ignition timing is correct. Spark plug wires are in proper positions. I have checked multiple times. However...Something new to consider. While I took an hour off for dinner, I left the key switch in the run position by accident. Earlier, I was hitting to starter to get a visual on normal crank shaft rotation direction. Back after dinner by fluke, I touched and noticed the main ignition coil was quite warm. I assume a result of leaving the key in the run position. Is this normal for the coil to get warm like this? Or is this a sign the coil has an internal short? A bad coil could be a reason for my poor running engine.
  23. I looked at the starter and the rad. I decided to pull the rad. Had it drained and out in 10 mins. Will put a 1 5/8" socket on a 1/2" drive breaker bar on the crank nut to turn it to #1 TDC. I understand I can confirm distributor timing by lining up TDC. Is there an easy way to check valve timing without pulling front crank pulley, and timing chain cover to inspect timing gear marks? As it sits now. Off to go buy a 1 5/8" socket. Thanks, Keith
  24. Bob, how easy should this L6 engine turn by hand? All plugs are out. In neutral. Cannot turn by trying to turn crank pulley. Starter easily spins it. Difficult to get on TDC using starter. Maybe I need to pull the rad and get a breaker bar on front crank nut? Thx.
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