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Everything posted by keithb7

  1. I assume you are missing the original lines? I have the engine and front nose cone out of my ‘38 currently. I can take some photos. Will send some soon.
  2. Basic business. Law of supply and demand. If you charge too much the parts won't sell. If you don't want to pay the high price, you may have to go without. My 1938 Plymouth also needs a crank hole cover. I won't buy one for the high prices people want for them. So I go without. It sucks but it is what it is. If anyone ever finds one and wants to help me out, I'll pay a reasonable price. Why do I need to get $100 for some vintage stainless steel trim that I am selling? So I can use the funds to pay the high price for another old car item I need. Yes indeed on a large scale, used parts prices that are too high drive more cars to the scrap metal pile. I'm not convinced a few of us here can fix that on a large scale.
  3. 6V is certainly fine and adequate. I own 3 old cars currently. All 6V and start as well as if they were new. Depends what you want, and more importantly what you understand about the 6V system. If you are building a hot rod, I get it. 12V gets you modern conveniences. A/C. iPod stuff. Pumpin’ stereo. Etc. If you are building a mostly stock, reliable fun old driver? My vote is 6V. Personally I’d avoid 12V if I was looking at old cars to buy. That’s just me. To each their own. The right decision is an educated one. I suggest formal printed textbook reading. Seek to understand more on the topic. Internet forums or social media sites are not suggested reading if you want to study the topic, in my opinion.
  4. Please tell us more about the vehicle. Tracks were around in the first decade of the 20th century. The solid front tires and and vehicle design have me thinking 1907-1908 ish? Some type of heavy payload hauler I assume? Diesel or gas engine?
  5. Thanks Al. I was aware of total number of Royals built. The majority being 2 door and 4 door sedans I’m sure. I’ll post a pic of my body plate soon. Keith
  6. I am hearing that this particular 1938 Royal Coupe model is pretty rare. Mine was built in Canada. I heard through the grapevine that a total of only forty coupes, same as mine, were built in Canada in 1938. Of those, I suspect some were sent over seas to Commonwealth countries. Somehow I'd like to be able to verify that production run estimate of forty. Is anyone else seeing any of these 1938 Chrysler Royal Coupes around? Where? If 40 is an actual number for Canadian builds, I wonder how many are actually left today? There can't be many. I can only speculate. What about USA production? Does anyone have any input on numbers Royal coupes produced in the USA?
  7. Left and right trim for edge of hood. Good shape. I saved as many mounting clips and retainers as I could. Location of trim on car is shown. $100 US plus shipping. I’m in Canada. Will ship anywhere. Paypal preferred. Thanks. Keith
  8. I read the post. It caught my attention as I own a couple of ‘38 Mopars. A Plymouth and a Chrysler. I’m more of a stock systems type of guy, however I respect all cars and their owners. Everyone loves their baby. Modified. Stock. Whatever. I was unable to answer your question so I moved on. I look forward to more inquiries about your ‘38 Plymouth. Here’s my cars. Engine is pulled for rebuild currently.
  9. Holley 1-4psi fuel regulator...If its leaking fuel out the adjustment bolt the diaphragm is compromised! Don't try sealing up the bolt threads. They are on the dry side of the diaphragm. Doh! Every day we learn something new is a good day.
  10. keithb7


    I can’t speak about your specific model of truck. I can tell you that I hand cut valve seats with special vintage tooling and abrasive pads. My exhaust valves were hardened. It can be done. Engine was in the car. It depends how bad your seats look. I’ve seen some seats in very poor condition after sitting in a field for decades. Those seat examples should be dressed with stones and powered tooling. After seat grinding by hand, I lapped in all new valves with the sandy lapping compound. I got good results. I spent a week of evenings leaning over the big bulbous fenders. It worked, but took time and effort. The car was a 1953 Chrysler. Flathead 6 engine.
  11. Yes that's it. I have 1 double ended wrench ¼ one end, 3/16 the other end. No good. Too big or too small. I'll get a set tomorrow likely.
  12. Yes Steve. I have family and friends there. Actually I was just there this week to pick up this Chrysler. Today I pulled the front drums. Inspected brakes. They were perfectly concentric. I tweaked the minor adjustment only. Just a tad. Front pads like new. No leaks. Fluid clear. I repacked the wheel bearings. I discovered both front wheel hubs are clockwise to tighten. Modern normal. It threw me off. Expecting left side to be LH threads. I assume someone changed it up. Will get to rears soon. Set accelerator pump to middle setting. Re-installed RH splash pan. Man that is a pain. My wife helped. She was under the car. I was reaching down from above. I’m trying to locate some micro-wrenches so I can get at the points. I need 7/32. No luck yet. I’ll try more stores soon. I won’t touch timing or dwell until I have some. A pic, out for a cruise this evening.
  13. I won't be restoring this one....Just maintaining and enjoying it. I brought it home this week. It was restored 25 years ago. It came with an appraisal from 1998, 50,000 miles. When I got it this week, 57,000 miles. She's a gem. An emerald one. 1938 Chrysler C16 Royal coupe.
  14. Boy you’re making this hard to say no. I own a 1938 P6. I am a little reluctant though as I just spent barrels of cash acquiring a 1938 C16 also. Just yesterday. A 1938 Chrysler 2 dr coupe. My 1938 P6 engine block is currently in the machine shop. Due for pick-up tomorrow. That’ll be a hefty bill too. Money is pouring out like a faucet right now. I should have decades left to go in this game. Slow and steady for a little while now. Gotta dial it back for bit. Let the wallet gain a little weight again. Lol.
  15. I sure enjoy reading the comments here. I’ve had my share of trials with 6V systems. I own a 1953 Chrysler, all stock 6V. It works great! I also own a 1938 Plymouth. 6V too. Never underestimate what a previous owner may have done. People with little understanding do weird things, unaware of the consequences. My ‘38 starter was a mess. Wouldn’t turn over worth a darn. 12V would turn it lickety-split. The seller proved it to me when I was looking at the car to buy it. Later I pulled the starter. The armature was a mess. Partially melted I suppose from all the 12V it had seen. I cobbled spare pieces together and built a new starter. Works great now on 6V. I started a You Tube channel to share all my vintage mopar experiences with new, up and comers to the hobby. Many topics have been covered. Starters. Generator output testing. 6V electrical systems. Carbs and lots more. There are videos that may help you in your 54 Chrysler journey. My advice is pull the starter and generator. Get them both checked and serviced as necessary. Get the engine spinning over. Then a compression test to learn where you may have to go next. Here’s a link to my You Tube channel if interested. https://m.youtube.com/channel/UCVoBq2i7wl4w0W4JB6cAMjg
  16. I must admit, I enjoy my vintage cars way to much to be thinking about gas mileage. The topic is probably the lowest concern of anything on a possible list. 1 notch below insurance costs. Life’s too short.
  17. For a hobbyist, selling parts on ebay has become a PITA. No fun. I used to do it a lot. They seemed to have found a way to complicate almost every part of the process. Maybe with good reason. I don’t know. It takes effort, lots, to strip off 70 year old parts with very rusted fasteners. Wrap it all up. Pack it. Sell it. Ship it. Then people want stuff for as cheap as possible. I can understand at least some of the tone in the ad.
  18. Today I rounded up some steel and hardware. I went to see my hobby-machinist friend. We tag-teamed a bit to build this con-rod vise. It should allow me to install, torque and crush the rod bearings. Then measure bearing to crank journal clearances. Fairly accurately I think. Better than plasti-gauge I think? It was a fun project. Bonus working with my buddy too. All for the ‘38!
  19. 2 more weeks at the machine shop they tell me. Then I can take it home and start reassembly.
  20. Siamese pairing. Coolant does not flow between all adjacent cylinders. Font of block, and rear of block allow for coolant to cross flow form left side of block to right. Also between cyls 2&3 and 4&5. However between cylinders 1&2, 3&4, and 5&6, that is not so. Coolant does not cross flow. Those cylinders are closer together. So off set con-rods are necessary. See pic and look at the different spacing between cylinder pairs. My understanding is this siamese design also leads to some hotter spots in the engine. Some valves may run hotter than others. I suspect this is why the Chrysler engineers instruct us to set the valve lash when the engine is at full operating temperature.
  21. Thanks for all the info folks. Good to know. I'm not sure what I want yet. I am pretty sure it'll be a Mopar product. At this point I am learning more about the mechanical updates and when they were introduced.
  22. I am contemplating another old car purchase. My oldest car currently is a 1938 Plymouth. I am interested in going back further. I think I like to be able to comfortably drive at 35-40 mph and feel stable. Max 40 mph is good enough for around here, town cruising. Yet I don’t want it to feel like its strung-out zinging along, laboring at 40. For reference my 1938 is quite comfortable at 50. What year would virtually all Mopar cars have centrifugal spark advance? About what era was vacuum advance pretty much a basic standard on all Mopar cars? I have driven a 1928 DB Standard Six a few times. A 5P sedan model. It doesn’t feel all too stable to me at 40 mph. 25 mph its fine. Maybe it needs some work? I’m unsure. I recently found a 1928 Chrysler Coupe Model 62 for sale. I suspect this car would have a considerably better horsepower to weigh ratio than the Standard Six. Less weight. It has an optional 60 hp 6 cyl red-head engine they claim. 54 HP was standard power, the ad reads. Top speed was supposedly 62 mph. Full hydraulic brakes. I assume Lockheed. Any idea if a 1928 Chrysler 62 has automatic spark timing advance and retard? Was an OD option available in 1928? How about engine hardened valve seat inserts? I suspect there are no synchros between anyntranny gears? Thanks for any info related to this 1928 era.
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