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keithb7

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Everything posted by keithb7

  1. Thanks for the plug Jim! That’s my YT channel. I try to keep the Mopar topics stripped down for beginners, where possible. Mike you need a digital multi meter. You could attach the positive lead to a good, clean rust free ground point on the car. Loosen all spark plugs so you can turn the engine by hand. Take distributor cap and rotor off. Push the dizzy cap aside a little. Don’t unplug all the plug wires. Clip the end of other multi-meter lead to the point on the coil, right where the wire that goes from the coil to the distributor, connects to the coil. Set mutli-meter to continuity test. Turn fan blade. Watch points open and close. Muti-meter should produce a long beep when points are closed. No beep when points are open. A test light could provide similar results. Power from the battery. The light only comes on when points are closed.
  2. It ran 5 years ago. So what changed? Ethanol in the fuel may have corroded rubber parts in the fuel system. It also leaves scale and residue inside the carb. Plugging up fuel ports. Tiny opening called jets get plugged. Not allowing fuel to pass. Air moisture corrodes bare exposed metal parts. Ignition contacts like points, cap, rotor. Clean them up. Hopefully there are no engine valves stuck. It happens. Rodents may chew on wires. Especially important, is the wife from the coil to the distributor. If you have a mutil-meter, the wire from the coil to the distributor makes contact to ground only when the points are closed. Ensure this is correct. Remove the fuel line where it enters the carb. Put the end of it in a bucket. Have a helper crank the engine over. Is fuel spewing out at a good rate? I always like to perform an obligatory compression check on all 6 cylinders. That tells me a lot about the condition if the engine. These are a few places to start. Could be other things too.
  3. Thankyou. I do love the old prewar Mopars. I also own a 38 Ply sedan. Yup. Spoiled rotten.
  4. I must admit ya’ll are making me blush a little. I’m no pro mechanic. I have just a habit of focusing very hard until I find the solution. It’s invigorating to me. I never spray a problem with new parts and pray for it to be fixed. I truly perform one step at a time. Then test drive. Rinse and repeat. Don’t stop till it’s done. I’ve learned a ton by sticking to these guidelines. I may be picky but I want it running as best as it can. I've been just a tinkerer most of my life. It all adds up, compounding. I literally got my first flathead vintage Mopar in 2017. I’ve spent the last four years neck deep in them. Before that, my last vintage car was my daily driver 33 years ago. A 1976 Dodge Dart. I love the hobby. Too much fun.
  5. Below here is a summary of the past two months. I've been dialing in my new '38 Royal. It's been a fantastic journey to get here. I gained some great skills that will help me look after my 2 old Mopars for years into the furture. I thought that others may gain from my learnings if I document them here: I found quite a few things to get this car dialed-in. In summary: -Coil wire at internal rear of coil. Exposed wire strands possibly going to ground intermittently. -A non-stock spring inserted above check ball, under set screw for accelerator pump circuit. Removed spring. -Bad points anchor bolt. Stripped threads. Would not lock down and hold the set gap. Updated. -Incorrect sized steel BB balls in the carb valves for intake and outlet of accelerator pump. Found both BB's same size. Replaced with correct sizes. -Valve lash found to be between 0.002" to 0.0035" wider than published spec. Re-set to spec. -Oil mist inside distributor cap. Cleaned up/degreased inside distributor cap and points/breaker plate. -Air leak at carb base adaptor place. Gasket shriveled up and shrunk. Replace with new gasket -Accelerator pump leather cup hard and stiff. Could not maintain steady flow of raw fuel stream. New accelerator plunger assy, spring and spring top retainer plate installed. -Adjusted float level to spec -Re-tensioned spark plug wire caps that anchor to spark plug. Getting loose. - Added carb base plate heat shield plus new gaskets -Added heat shield at front bottom of exh manifold to assist keeping fuel pump cool -Removed incorrect fuel pump and pressure regulator. -Installed stock type mechanical fuel pump, without built-in air pump - Found 1 cylinder with lower compression. 75 psi versus 95-100 psi across all others. -Cleaned all carb passages -Tweaked and set dwell and timing. Published spec for timing is 0 degrees. This is not really appropriate for today's fuels. Advanced timing 2-3 degrees. Every step that was addressed seemed to add some improvement to the engine's performance. I will add Marvel Mystery Oil to my fuel tank indefinitely in an attempt to free up possible stuck ring on piston #2. I will measure the compression again in a few months to learn if it's up. What a car. It's been fantastic so far. Lots of good times and memories to come. It's hard to drive it anywhere on any type of schedule. It attracts a ton of interest. People of all walks come to see and enjoy this car. I get it out as much as I can. I drive it lots and show it to the public regularly.
  6. Hi folks, there is no crack in the main bearing. Just a mark from the dial indicator used to check specs. I have all the assembly parts here staged and ready to go. All machining work done. I have not started reassembly yet. Perhaps I should start a new thread on engine reassembly from scratch, for the beginner. Then I will pick up on everyone's helpful comments. It's been 35 years since I last rebuilt a car engine. I reassembled the first couple of engines I rebuilt somewhat correctly. They ran well and made good power. Longevity? I can't say. I sold them off a few years later. Time is hard to come by right now, to reassemble this engine. I am working diligently on my newly acquired 1938 Chrysler Coupe. I have been working out all the little gremlins. Getting it sorted and in a fine state of tune. I wait all winter for good driving weather. We're in the peak of great weather now. I want to enjoy driving my 38 Chrysler, and attend car events right now. I'm quite busy . The engine reassembly will have to wait. I will probably poke away at it a little here and there. The majority of work to be done over the coming winter months.
  7. Unsure. Posting for a contact, who asked for help.
  8. Yup. Inlet needle and seat look like they need some work. If you are new to old Flathead Mopars, check out my You Tube channel. Tons to videos for folks covering many topics. https://m.youtube.com/channel/UCVoBq2i7wl4w0W4JB6cAMjg/videos
  9. Hi @rodneybeauchamp thanks for watching all the way from South Australia. I am enjoying my Chrysler. This week I am letting the car sit idle for the week. I am soaking all cylinders in Marvel Mystery Oil. I have 1 cylinder at 75 psi. Others are 90-100 psi. Likely a stuck ring. The engine has not seen much use the past 25 years. I'll flash it up again on Sunday evening and start driving it again. See if I can get the ring to loosen up.
  10. Wanted: 1953 Packard engine oil pan. Straight 8 engine. Rear sump 7.39 Qt (7L) capacity. Thanks.
  11. I like it Joe! Good plan. Removing good, and inserting blown relay fuses on the tow vehicle might work better too!
  12. Not convenient, but when trailering to an event, a high voltage coil wire and a plug wire or two come into the hotel room with me. From the modern tow vehicle, the fuel injection pump and starter relays may accompany me. They may get mad and wreck stuff, but odds are, it's still there when you go out in the morning.
  13. Looks what is finally home....Finally I can start reassembly.
  14. I went back to the machine shop this week....A guy really has to be patient these days it seems. All the work I requested has been done except turning the mains down .010. That will be done by day's end today. I am to pick up my block and related parts this evening. I am ambitious to start putting this engine back together. I look forward to the upcoming work I will do.
  15. I like it too. Price certainly seems reasonable. 18xxx miles? Wow. Cool find for a Mopar lover somewhere. I already clipped my ticket this year and bought a 38 Mopar. If I hear of anyone looking I'll pass it along.
  16. I have a handful of these brake tools left. I'll sell these off at a discount. Someone took my tool that I sold them, copied it identical, are now mass producing and selling them all over the net. Oh well. It was a fun for a while. $90 US Funds, shipped within the USA or Canada Prepaid shipping included in the $90 total. Limited quantities. Will ship to other countries at actual shipping cost. Thanks. Keith
  17. I have this one https://www.uni-trend.com/html/product/General_Meters/digitalclampmeters/UT210_Series/UT210E.html
  18. A clamp style multimeter that measures up to 50 or so DC amps is a very handy tool to own for this type of work. I’ve been able to successfully nail down a couple of ignition off battery drain problems on my vehicles. Very quickly.
  19. I may be experiencing a lean symptom at higher RPM. I'm not 100% sure yet. I still have some other variables to sort out. Is there anything I can do, other than remove the regulator and go back to to the stock fuel pump? Is there way to confirm if I am really running lean at high RPM? I feel some power surging at higher RPM. Adjusting timing and float height makes no difference. I noticed a couple of back fire events yesterday while testing to try narrow down the root cause. I was tuning, making adjustments and testing. Seems to me the back firing was on deceleration only when it did occur. If I recall is this sign of a lean condition?
  20. I bought the 6V-12V one shown on Amazon. I installed it in my ‘38 Plymouth glove box. I use it to power a modern iPhone charger. It works fine for me.
  21. You can see the fuel line in the photos. RF engine mount cradle area. There is a fitting there. It has the yellow plastic ring on it. Then the piece of rubber fuel line. The fuel line then attaches to another piece of rigid shaped fuel line. The line mounts to the mechanical fuel pump, intake. The pice of rubber hose allows for flexible connection between the engine and frame. Seen here. Not stock as this is a 25" long engine mounted in my 38 Plymouth. I had to get creative and bent that rigid line with all those turns.
  22. Remove the rear main cap. See what type of seal you have. You should be able to remove the bottom half of the seal and the two rubber "h" pieces. Replace with new. This may clean up the most of your leaks.
  23. The line that goes down along the bottom of the engine is not ideal. Probably not stock. I have a 25” long engine in my car. Installed by previous owner. He likely routed that brake line? I plan to reroute it onto the front frame cross member.
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