Jump to content

keithb7

Members
  • Content Count

    943
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Posts posted by keithb7

  1. The one I sorta find funny is “What’s the fuel economy?”  
     

    I really don’t know. I really don’t care. How can you put a price on what fuel costs are per mile, to drive the car you put all your blood sweat and tears into? Totally irrelevant.
     

    A better question might be “How much does shipping cost every time you need a replacement part?”...Sigh. Way too much. 

    • Like 1
  2. Electric cars...Meh. They’re still all part of eating up this planet. We’ve had a good run. Those alive to actively participate in this forum have had it pretty darn great on this planet. I’m not a big fan of the electric car. I’m not convinced its the answer.
     

    Look up Cobalt Mining in Africa. Its needed for battery production. Where does plastic come from? I believe refined oil. Copper wire for all those Tesla drive motors? Mining. Electricity. Where’s it coming from? Nuclear and Hydro seem to be the majority producers. Damming and flooding valleys for more hydro power? Boy that’s a tough one to get approved these days. Anyone up for a nuclear power plant in their region?

     

    I don’t know what the answer is. Maybe its too heavy a question to sort out? I think so. Growth. Economy. Profits. Capitalism. Greed. The planet only has so much to give. 
     

    I’m guilty. We’re all guilty. For now I plan to just keep my 1938 Detroit iron on the road for as long as I can. Isn’t that plan at least a little bit of a reduction of natural resources? The energy and resources needed to make my car is 83 years old. It still takes me out to buy groceries and visit friends today. Isn’t it better for the environment that I use those resources as long as possible? Good for the economy? Nope. 

    • Like 2
  3. Sorry I misread your post about setting them cold.

    Have you insured the piston is at TDC, compression stroke for each pair of valves? I will wiggle the tappets to double check. This ensures both valves are fully closed. By wiggling  I can then feel the tappet clearance as the camshaft ramp is fully backed off the tappet. Then I proceed to set that pair of valves. Turn the crank 120 degrees and do the next set.  And so on, progressing thru each cylinder's valve pairing . Following the order of 1 5 3 6 2 4. If you still get ticking you may have other problems.

  4. I have a 1949 Canadian Mopar service manual here. I can view schematics of 1949 C45 and C46 models. The circuits are different as the C46 seems to have more bells and whistles. Including electric door locks, and electric convertible motor. 

     

    The C45 has one 3 amp window wiper motor circuit breaker and another circuit breaker (amp rating unspecified in the schematic) for the entire lighting circuit. It's right off the ammeter, then on to both the live wired lights, (door jamb interior lamps, brake lamps), and also headlamp switch controlled lights. 

     

    The C46 has an 8 amp circuit breaker that feeds the window wiper motor. Then another 30 amp circuit breaker. It protects the head light switch circuit, glove box light,  map and panel light switch,  some type of front & rear door switches (electric locks I assume). I also see a 3rd circuit breaker. It seems to mainly protect the semi-auto shift system for the transmission. (shift solenoid, interrupter switch, anti-stall switch). 

     

    I'm still learning here too. It seems odd to me that there is no circuit breaker for the C46 convertible roof motor. It pulls power right off the starter lug (battery wire) to a switch. Gotta be quite a heavy amp-rated switch I suspect to run that motor. Seems questionable today.

     

    I don't see any ground wires needed for flashers. The circuit is grounded at each signal bulb.

     

    Circuit breakers. Help me understand. Are they designed to kill the circuit once the amp draw going thru them gets too high? A thermal switch that automatically resets once it cools down? I can see a wiper motor, or all the headlights are needed for safety. Too high of a draw, yet a person still needs to get home. So it cools and resets, as opposed to a fuse that melts and cannot be re-set?

     

    Sorry @Handyman I may not have answered your question. Only added some color and raised more questions.

  5. I have a ‘38 Plymouth. For reasons mentioned here, my recent brand-new bias tires were blackwall. Never once did I consider WW tires for my ‘38 car. My Plymouth, the cheapest of the Mopar line up. Now, my ‘53 Chrysler? Absolutely. Wide whitewalls. 
     

    Spare tires got me thinking. By the mid- 30’s were flats still a very common thing? I could see flats being a major problem for early horseless carriages. There were horses losing shoes and nails everywhere on roads. 
     

    I just cannot imagine WW tires on this car. 

     

    9CE524A3-0D8F-4912-AF33-A5612AAF61B2.jpeg

    • Like 1
  6. Matt, I am unsure of your laws in the USA. Do you have a sales document with all the fine print that the purchaser signs when he/she buys a new car? The customer signs it, you are protected.  If the buyer refuses to read it, that's his fault. If indeed you see common things in the vintage car sales industry that keep re-appearing, you point them out and have that discussion with the buyer.  Up-front you are warning him politely that as a buyer, if he does not do his research and comes up in a bind, it's not your problem. 

     

    Where does it end? Where do you draw the line on holding buyer's hands? You take on the stress, it wears you down and hurts your business. There must be countless examples where things could go off the rails. The longer you are in business you will be exposed to more and more issues that you've had to deal with. Your business dealings will eventually become easier as you learn how to deal with these customers up front. 

     

    A scenario, I imagine selling my 1938 Plymouth:

     

    Daily driver? Look around. How many pre-war cars do you see on the road every day? 

     

    Does it stop well? For 1938 my car stops very well.  It has skinny tires and non-auto adjusting brakes, without ABS. It has a single reservoir brake master cylinder.

     

    Can it drive a freeway speeds? Well in 1938 there were no interstate roads. Top road speeds were about 50 mph. Many roads were dirt. There are no seat belts and no crumple zones in the car. No turn signals.

     

    As a seller do I really need to point out these things to protect myself in the sale of it?

     

     

     

     

  7. After some research I was able to determine that there was good chance that the Gemmer steerting gearbox in my 38 Plymouth, would contain the same parts used in a same period Ford. 

    The housings and design of the Ford and Plymouth Gemmer steering gearboxes are likely different, however I estimated, "Why would the same company redesign all the internal wearing parts?" 

    Indeed they did not redesign all the internal parts. I ordered my Plymouth steering gears parts from an old Ford cars parts business. The bearings are Timken so good quality. The company I bought from had good selection and photos for every part. Between my Hollander Interchange and my 6th edition Motors manual, plus having my gear box apart, I was able to nail it all down. I rolled the dice and ordered the parts. They arrived here in Canada, shipped from California, in only 2 days. The pricing was better than anything I'd seen on Ebay. Or any of the Mopar suppliers. I feel like I got good quality parts, great selection, good prices, and reasonable freight costs.  Do your homework folks. Check the parts out here:  https://cgfordparts.com/ufolder/selecttitle.php?c=1&s=7&g=64

     

    Comparing the new parts that arrived, I think I have a perfect fit! 


     

     

     

     

     

    31979DE2-54E3-4611-BF4E-6D260149DBD5.jpeg

    • Like 3
  8. According to my Hollander interchange '35-'37 Airflow 8 same differential. Also same as '37-'39 Dodge truck differential.

     

    Ring gears, pinions, '34-'37 Airflow same. Dodge truck '37. MD15 ,16, 20,21. ME20, 21,22, 3/4T-1T. Dodge Truck '39 TD20, 21

     

    Good luck.

  9. I am hoping to get a few pointers to understand the theory behind vacuum and centrifugal advance of distributor spark timing. 
     

    I hear that 100 year old or so cars, the spark timing was manually retarded to start the engine.  Often by turning a lever on the steering wheel. This was to prevent an engine backfire while the crankshaft was slowly turning. The spark was manually advanced by the operator as soon as the engine was running.  
     

    Vacuum: Does an engine make the most vacuum when the throttle valve is mostly closed, such as 1/4 throttle and less? I’m imaging 6 cylinders trying to suck air through the carb. With throttle valve closed, intake manifold vacuum should be high. Correct? 
     

    The vacuum advance pot has a spring in it. It works opposite direction on the vacuum pot action? When the engine is off, the mechanical spring retards the timing. Holds it there. So timing is retarded when the engine first fires up. Like the 100 year old cars mentioned above.  As soon as the engine fires up, vacuum overcomes the spring. The timing is advanced from the earlier retarded position. Correct? As the throttle valve is opened, the engine speeds up. Does manifold vacuum drop? Rendering the vacuum advance less effective? The spring might start to pull the vacuum to the retard direction, however now as engine RPM increases, centrifugal advance takes over. The spark timing is a advanced to account for combustion travel rates within the cylinders, at higher piston travel speeds. 
     

    I think I grasp all that pretty good.
     

    Where I struggle is when the engine is lugging. Say, climbing a steep hill. Engine RPM drops. Centrifugal advance loses speed. Throttle valve is now wide open or close to it. Driver chooses to stay in top gear, lugging the engine, using what torque the engine makes, to climb the hill.
     

    What is the intake manifold vacuum reading in this situation? I assume at least initially, less vacuum, as the throttle is wide open. With engine rpm down, is centrifugal advance doing much? Where should spark timing be in this scenario? Is the mechanical spring inside the vacuum advance pot now overcoming any vacuum? Retarding the spark timing again?

     

    Perhaps a lugging engine at WOT builds up good strong vacuum? Advancing the timing as it lopes up the hill? I’m unsure. 

     

    I sometimes lay in bed as I fall asleep, wondering. So tonight I grabbed the iphone from my night table to ask.

     

    Thanks for any responses. I’ll read

    them in morning. 
     

    Keith

  10. Engine block was sent to machine shop. It was boiled and crack checked. Passed! Good to go. Now I am awaiting engine parts to arrive. I ordered everything from Vintage Power Wagons. 
     

    While I am layed up waiting for engine parts, I took the rad nose cone off. I also pulled my Gemmer steering gearbox for overhaul. Parts for it have also been ordered. New bearings, seals, shims, gaskets. 
     

     

    2DD5BC6B-16A5-4A1D-B60D-506E25A3E937.jpeg
     

    4A33B643-F5E5-466F-8C2C-79D3D78CC283.jpeg

     

    FBCA0832-D14E-47ED-A7B5-AF980B957F0B.jpeg

    • Like 4
  11. I’ve not personally pursued this career. However thinking about what skills I lack, I might suggest:

     

    Automotive technician program in a trade school.  Also get your own old car to start getting in depth hands on experience asap. 

     

    After school, land a professional job working on cars. Perhaps at a shop that specializes in classic and vintage cars. That would be a bonus. Take another class in welding.  Maybe night school at a community college. Keep working. Learn from the experienced people working around you.  When you feel ready, maybe start taking on some vintage car work at home on the side, if possible. Gather up some clients. Build up your reputation. 
     

    When you ready to dive in, you may have to leverage everything you own. Your house, car whatever. To get tooled up and set up to open your own business. Take some business Management courses?
     

    Just book-smarts is not enough. You need real shop and hands on experience. You might as well get paid to get that. So go get it at your day job. Besides, in trade school they will likely focus on systems 5-10 years old and newer only.  Skipping all the classic systems you’ll be working on. 
     

    Time. It takes time. There is no substitute for experience.  


    Good luck. Go for it!

    • Like 4
  12. The issue that new owners usually encounter with these old Lockheed brakes, is understanding how to properly set them up. There is a major and minor brake adjustment. When set right, they work well.  I had never worked on any brakes like these before. It did take me a little time to wrap my head around how they needed to be set up. Don't give up. Do a good amount of research. The shoes must be concentric to the drum and axle center. Not easily done without a handy little tool.

  13. Not sure if there are any pre-made steel brake lines out there. However I have had great success making my own. Highly recommend the Calvan in line flaring tool. Skip the old style clamp double

    flaring tool. Its a good lesson in frustration and why good tools are worth the money! lol

    You can however, order new rubber flex lines, if that was what you meant.

     

    Keith 

    • Like 1
  14. I think you went in too far. You are now removing the rear tranny brake support housing. You'll now need a new gasket for in there too.

    To access just the rear seal, the park brake drum is removed, slid off the tranny output shaft.  It can be a stubborn bugger. A puller may be needed. Then you can see the rear seal that is pressed into the brake support housing.

     

    To fix up what you've done, you will need to remove the park brake linkage and drum. Remove speedometer drive gear. Then hopefully remove the brake housing.  Sliding it toward the rear. I can't recall 100%,  but the main shaft of the tranny and main rear bearing may be pressed into the brake support housing. I hope not. If so, the the entire main shaft of the tranny comes out with the rear brake support housing. Then the gasket can be accessed.

     

    When it was out on the floor I removed the rear seal and install a new one. Acquire a new paper gasket to re-seal the brake housing to the rear of the tranny. Hopefully this all can be

    done with the tranny still in the car. I am doubtful. If the entire main shaft has to come out......

     

    I have only done this work with the tranny out on the floor.  See my pic here. This was my '38 tranny. You can see the entire main shaft of the tranny is still pressed into the brake housing. 

     

     

    IMG_6169.jpg

     

    Shown here, I am installing a new rear tranny seal. Hammering it in place with a tube.

     

     

    IMG-5351.JPG

     

    One more for reference. Again, these are all pics of my 38 tranny. Yours may be slightly different.

     

    IMG_5447.jpg

×
×
  • Create New...