[1953 Roadmaster with most of the options]

I recived the rear springs from Coil Spring Specialties in Kansas a few weeks back. Finally got around to installing them and I'm pretty satisfied with the outcome. Took a few measurements at the bottom of the license plate. 
With an empty trunk, it was at 15 inches. Added 182 pounds of dog food in trunk and it dropped to 13 1/2 inches. Installed the new springs with the 182 pounds in the trunk and it went up to 15 1/2 inches. Removed the weight and it settled at 16 1/2 inches. 
The old rear springs had a 1/2 inch wire, while the new ones have a 5/8 inch wire. Additionally, the new springs are 1 inch shorter, which worried me a bit during the measurements. It'll be interesting to see how it looks and drives with people in the rear seat now. 
- Steve

[1953 Roadmaster with most of the options]

The Roadmaster has a fair amount of wind noise the drivers door at the  top. The flipper seal body to flipper is a falling apart. You can purchase these seals. I would like to replace the window felt in the flipper. A very small SS rivets hold it in place any tips on tooling and procedure and a vendor that sells the rivets will be greatly appreciated. Calling them a rivet could be incroect they are more like a brazier head. 

Thanks 

Steve 

[1953 Convertible project]

Good weather this weekend  so I gave the Convertible a quick test 

Transmission installed a week or so back test drove around the driveway  no leaks so far. The front of the transmission and accumulators had a pretty Nasty drip before. 

Now back to the seat project.

Steve 

 

 

[1940 76C Reconstruct]

The details can be a time suck you are making progress. When you stand back you can’t see it very easily in your eyes. You are taking care of the details that take time. I looked back to the first page you have had quite a vision on day one.  You have built a beautiful car.

 

I had a dome light in a convertible that worked about 20 precent of the time. New harness and everything in the top frame repaired and looking good. I figured it out but it was a time eating project. 

Crossing the finish line can be exhausting 

Steve 

[My Wife's 1968 Wildcat convt]

Looking good  hope this  is this the last of the rust repair for you. I am sure you are ready  to see the convertible out and about 

 My father-in-law was a Body man back in the day he used plenty of brass when making repairs. Faster than torch welding he always said. Late in his carrer they started using Mig welders. He worked flat rate and the items that he talked about was the invention of plastic body fillers and mig welders. I wish I would have spent more time with him and leaned some of his trade

Steve

[1955 Buick low oil pressure?]

Glad You are about ready for the road I have watched your progress on this repair. Using the hoist for lifting the comp is wise that thing is huge. 

Steve 

[Installing an elec fuel pump]

An electric pump in my opinion is a requirement. After storage you can prime the carburator and you will have a way to help deal with vapor lock.  Buicks are heavy when you have to push them out of an intersection when vapor locked. Next day mine had an electric pump installed. 

As far as placement the 55 owners should have placement options. 

Steve

[1953 Convertible project]

The seat Bottom is in the car so I can move it around and confirm the seat back is correct. The R/H back is 3” higher Than it will be when finished. The driver side is cut down now I will shorten the spring assembly at the bottom this way the top will remain for upholstery.  Once the seats are stripped and cleaned up the next project will be the top mechanism. I keep looking at all the work needed for the top this will be a project in its self. 

Steve 

 

 

 

[My Wife's 1968 Wildcat convt]

I have been following this project  you're getting closer for sure. Rust repair is time consuming but it looks like you have this on the run now. I look forward to the next post. 

Steve 

[Looking for factory sheet metal for 53 Buick Skylark and 57 Buick Century coupe restorations]

Rust repair is a pain for sure and  finding sheetmetal  parts for the 53 floor is tough to say the least. I have a few decent  floor braces lying about if you need them.  I found a 53 RM four door with a good  floor and rockers.  The dimensions worked out it fits the convertiable with very little modification.  Not sure how rusted your floors are please post a few pictures We all like to follow projects. The knowledge on the forum is a great help. I stated going down the repair path on my project thinking no one has done this type of repair. I wish I had scanned the forum first it would have saved me a time for sure.  Old tank has repaired a rusted convertible he has some great ideas on his thread. Others have done repairs on rusted cars with some innovative ideas. 

I might have other parts and pieces for a floor repair lying around in my barn let me know what you need. 

Very nice looking 57 and shop

Steve

[Need a Brass 90 degree Fitting for Fuel Pump to Gas Tank]

I would take a close sample and see if your local hose house can help. They might need to use two fittings or order your fitting from a vendor. The one I use is open on Saturday they open at 8Am, I go in about 9Am  this gives the staff time to deal with folks working on Saturday. I look for the senior guy and we are usually on track quickly.  I have seen the fitting you need in the past I would like to think a hose house could help 

 

Steve

[46 Roadmaster Series 70 Powergen alternator conversion pulley problem]

Cool car If you did the torque tube seal nothing on this will keep you away from the roads as far as repairs. Get it charging and drive it as often as you can. I like doing the repairs sounds like you do also. The best times are taking a ride with family and friends going wine tasting or to the local DQ with the grand kids. Add a long trip and you will be the hit on the highway. 

Steve 

[1953 Convertible project]

Some progress on the Convertible this weekend. Hydraulic tubing for the seat windows and top is tight and secured on the floor. Sound mat installed in heater area and the  heater is installed. Started on modifying the seat back’s they need lower 3”  my rust free seat is from a hardtop. I added a picture showing the factory cut on the original seat from back in the day when the seat was lowered. The original seat is a bit rusty not even good scrap. I will post a few pictures of the seat for now. Once I m further along I will add a few more. The Dynaflow is back in after repairing the leak at the front. This project is never ending but I see some progress Good thing I see this as therapy. 

Steve 

 

 

 

 

[46 Roadmaster Series 70 Powergen alternator conversion pulley problem]

Curt welcome to the forum.  

The advice and expertise on the forum is almost limitless I know it has helped me on my projects. Looks like you are on the repair path. Here are a few things I have learned the hard way in some cases. For a little background I drive a 53 RM every chance I get it has  a generator and I get by fine, I even added AC so the amp draw is high at times. This is 12 volt not 6 volt for reference. 

 

This car was new to me 2 years ago it did kind of run. I did  the starter and generator brushes and bushings.  My regulator was OK. I wish I had added an electric fuel pump before I drove it much. I use this if needed to fill the carburetor bowl  or when a vapor lock comes my way. I  also changed the battery cables they had corrosion inside the cables.  After 70 plus years yours are most likely the same. I do see the ground strap it looks new.  If  you have a new battery a tuneup could  help with crank time before it starts. Resolving the charging system take this to a local starter shop see about repairing the generator. I like the starter switch on the gas pedal. I have read somewhere on the form that an alternator can cause issues with this.  I would think with a battery tender and a working charging system you would be OK. With low starter draw and quick starts and fully charged battery. Another thing that I install is a battery switch new wire harness or not. I never leave an old car with the battery hooked up. I would also look for any parstic draw on the system while it is hooked up. I have seen the glove box light or a trunk light be an issue.

I did change one car from 6 volt to 12 volt it is not a Buick it has worked fine 30 plus years. This is not hard and it does simplify a few things.  

 

Now the issue with your pulley. I would think the pulley would work without a keyway. This is if the pulley is  tight against the bearing retainer/spacer  in the new alternator. Once the nut is torqued down the pulley should pinch pulley tight. I have installed many an alternator that have no keyway. I added a picture of what I see on alternators that press against the bearing. They just rely on the nut holding pulley tight against the bearing retainer. The local rebuilder should be able to help with this. My local rebuilder has parts and pieces for many generators. 

Keeping posting how this is going for you. Looks like a clean unit post a few pictures of the car. Drive it and enjoy the ride. 

Steve 

 

 

 

[1953 Roadmaster with most of the options]

Question for those that are driving cars with vacuum wipers and a vacuum window washer system. The RM has no window washer system that operates at this time. The wiper motor has been converted over to electric operation. I have driven cars with vacuum wipers as you would think they would stop when vacuum dropped. That car did not have a double action fuel pump.   My question is When everything is in top shape and you have a double action fuel pump how do the wipers work on hills. I also see kits to repair the windshield washer pump how do they work out too those that have repaired the pumps.

My issue with the electric wiper motor is the switch, it’s ugly last owner mounted it in a spot that’s hard to get too at least the dash wasn’t drilled. I am exploring going back to a vacuum motor and pump if they work well enough when everything is correct. This will eliminate the ugly switch syndrome.

l could add an electric pump for the washer system but it’s another ugly item to install.

thanks in advance for the information 

Steve

 

[1940 76C Reconstruct]

Ken 

I have been following this project I like  your attention to detail. Looks like you are approaching the home stretch. 

Steve 

[1953 Convertible project]

Ken thanks for the info about using hose. I did work with Steele and it sounds like they have what I needed for the splash panel. I had them send a catalog. I located the seal in my picture. The  grommet for the Caddy works still needs the plate added and some sealer. I find it hard to navigate a few websites to try and locate some of the obscure items.  Like the grommet for the hydraulic lines I should have asked for a Cadilliac catalog long ago. I had to make the hold downs for the lines and bed twist the lies but at last they are on the run the back seat area should be easy. Here are a few pictures I will  add before pictures. 

Steve 

 

 

[1953 Convertible project]

Tom thanks for the picture, I just received a part that should work. This is for a Caddy according to Steele Rubber, also  one hole is smaller Than the other on the new part. I find this odd each line is the same size. It looks like your sample has the same size hole in each opening. I hope to try this pass through grommet out Sunday I will let everyone know.

Steele makes two of these grommets one with two holes this what you need with power windows and power top. Then one with just one hole this will fit a hardtop with power seat or windows.

Steve 

 

 

[What to really expect from a 1953 Dynaflow - Honest reality check.]

Every one is hitting the mark on performance. I am driving a 53 RM with a 322 the Dynaflow  resealed 8 months ago. I drive it every chance l get. In drive it responds well in traffic when merging on the freeway no issues. In day to day driving the experience on the road-is what l expected. This is not a race car by any means but it will leave a black mark on pavement if you work at it. In drive it willingly accelerates to the next stop light. I see your in Washington state l would think someone might have a 53 close by to show you how it works if you visit Oregon you could try out my Rm.  Not sure the weight difference between a super and a RM but it would have some impact. In my opinion the biggest issues in 53 is body roll in corners takes a bit to get used to. If you have one with power brakes they take a bit to understand. 
Steve

[1955 Buick low oil pressure?]

Willie you need a roloc bristle disc. These are a great aid in cleaning no wires flying. With a bit of care they should not remove anything other than the gaskets and carbon.  They are in a few colors to ID the grit. I use the green ones speeds things up.

Steve 

 

[1953 Convertible project]

I am digging in my boxes and have not found what was used. Sure it is here someplace. One more joy when you bring home a car in a box. So I am trying to come up with a grommet for the floor. The location is passenger side it is the pass through for the hydraulic lines for the power accessories. Been on the phone with Steele and a few other vendor’s no luck so far. It also has a small plate that helps hold things in place. I would think it is the same part for 53 back with power accessories. 1-1/4” square opening 

Does anyone have a picture showing the seal- grommet, or what they used in this area. 

Thanks 

Steve 

 

 

[1953 Roadmaster with most of the options]

I am Glad they are around. They have drawings or prints that go back into the 30s for the old cars if not further.

I was working with a very helpful gent. It sounds like the next generation will keep at it. They roll the wire and form as needed then send it out for heat treat. Sounds like they keep busy with the small orders, it is what they specialize in. They can and do larger orders.  Off road folks call them and folks that are doing some unusual things on cars and trucks. 

Steve 

[1953 Roadmaster with most of the options]

Here is an update on adding air bags in the springs. After working with Tech support at Air lift Company they don’t have a direct fit that will work in this application. They offer a universal kit but the air inlet is an issue in this application. I would  be drilling in places I would like to avoid. I will say they did put effort in coming up with a solution. 

I ordered rear coil springs today from Coil spring Specialties located in Kanas. I have purchased springs from them in the past. They are easy to talk with in helping you come up  with a solution.

The rear will rise about 3/4” unladen. It is sitting low in the back now this will make the car look better in my opinion. 

 I will have a variable rate as the spring compresses starting out at +15%. The ride quality will be just a touch different hardly noticeable I am told. Springs should be here in about six weeks. I will install them and see how I like the ride. 

Steve 

[1953 Convertible project]

Woking on the project and I have been ignoring a leak from the Dynaflow. I have moved the car a few times over the last few months and it has refused to idle. I also had a very small leak at one of the well plugs in the  carburetor it was leaving a stain on the intake. I covered them with JB weld this fixed this issue. 

Turned out the metering rod plunger had stuck in the bore. Cleaned this up reassembled the carburetor and it will now run and idle.

The leak on the transmission is a bolt & stud on the pump cover one is a stud on one side the other side is a bolt. Looks like the acucumulator mounting could  also be leaking at the bolts. Are these blind holes if not pull studs and bolts clean everything and seal the fasteners? Unit works fine other than the leak. 

Thanks

Steve 

 

 

 

 

[What do you pack for spare parts on long trips]

Thanks for the info all. 

I have looked at the Element Extinguisher in the past this  looks like a good thing to have. I have  worked on a few trucks that had a conventional Extinguisher used they do create a mess. Driving the cars and keeping them sorted  will be the biggest thing. A car not driven is the tough on a car. 

Volt meter is in my test light it is  in a box with wire repair kit and few bulbs and fuses. I never thought about a gauge set and refrigerant I do use 134A. This would be  a slow leak in the system fix. So true about riding home alone in the heat if the AC isn’t up and cooling. 

Steve