Taylormade
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Posts posted by Taylormade
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I'm sorry, maybe it's just me, but why would anyone spend the kind of money that must have gone into this restoration and go for this paint and interior? To each his own, I guess.
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Let me know if you still are in need of that packet, I was planning on digging for it this weekend
Would love to have it, thanks.
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Thanks, Phil. This is another example of why it is so important to have an original car we can reference for details like this.
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I think I have come up with an innovative way to reproduce the pad and use that prototype for the mold. It may take a week or two, but I'll post pictures if and when I get it done. I plan to use Devcon 94 urethane rubber, as I have in the past, to make the final piece. With Phil's photos and measurements I have all the information I need. I just have to order some inexpensive materials and I'm ready to go.
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As far as dies go ,if you have a trade school located close by,one that has a computerated machining class, they like to take on "real life" projects for practice at a considerable savings. If it fastens into a wooden floorboard ,I'd take a real good second look at Steele no. 40-0049-88 - '32 ply.PB pad. Measures 6-1/8 x 10-9/16 in., center gearshift hole but has clipped top corners. I know it's just close but might save alot of expense and only the experts are going to notice!
I may be forced to cave and get the Steele item, but not before I give this a try. Thankfully, the simple shape of the DL pad will make things much easier.
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Wow, Phil, you went above and beyiond the call of duty! I was worried you might damage it taking it off. That's about as simple as it gets - a square. A plan with dimensions would be perfect. If you could take an extreme close-up of the pattern with a ruler in the shot it would really help. Also, the thickness. I think I know how to reproduce those fine lines in between the thicker ribs. Once I get an exact size I'll give it a try and post results. You can email me the plan if you want, but if I have the side to side and top to bottom dimensions I can size your photo in Photoshop and work everthing out.
Notice it's close, but not the same as the 32 PB.
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trini, I'd take your request over to the Dodge Brothers Forum, lots of Dodge Brothers folks to help you there.
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Judging from the bag behind it this is a Steele reproduction piece. From that standpoint, he's not really gouging as Steele wants $148.80 for the piece. Either way, it's not a bargin. The sad reality is between the cost of the rubber, the mold-making materials and restoring or remaking the original for the mold, you're going to spend a lot more than that to make one. I enjoy figuring things out, but it doesn't always translate into saving money. If I had a nice CNC mill, I could machine the mold rather easily, but to hire a machinist to do it would cost a fortune. I have made similar pieces before using plexiglass and styrene strips. It didn't cost much, but the time involved was ridiculous. It was fun, so I didn't mind.
Things have changed, and there's no going back. When I bought my 32 for $400, I never thought I'd see the day when a beat-up fender for the car would cost twice what I originally paid for it. A gallon of paint that used to be $35.00 is now over a thousand! Any restoration worth its salt these days isn't going to come cheap even if you do most of the work yourself. I don't like it any more than you do, but that's the way it is.
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I don't. I fear only someone with an original pad can help us. I don't intend to ask Phil to remove his. Steele lists pads for 1932 Chryslers, Plymouths, and DeSotos, but not for Dodge so it doesn't match any of those.
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Try removing the battery ground cable.
Ouch! I guess I deserved that.
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There you go. If you haven't experienced it it's impossible to explain. Seeing all the work you've done - work I still have to do - I'm sure there were many times when that original infatuation turned a bit darker as you struggled to find a solution to the endless problems that seem to turn up during a restoration. I've already had a few unpleasant shocks and I'm only a month in!
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Yes, it was Phil's first car, too. He probably has a much better claim to nostalgic ownership than I do - I only had it for two years and he managed to hold on to it for 46. But, as I've said before, something about this car has always fascinated me and I'm glad it's come back to me after all these years.
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That's what I suspected. The 32s are a strange breed.
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I don't know about the TV show, but Bogart, as Marlow, drove a 38 Plymouth Deluxe (P6) in the classic "the Big Sleep."
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There is enough there to make a correct pattern. The tricky part is getting the thickness of the rubber around the emergency brake area correct. It has to be thin enough to be flexible but thick enough not to tear. Phil will have to chime in and let us know if that matches his DL.
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I had a close look at Phil Kennedy's original DL when I went to visit him last month. All the rubber - floormat, pedals, and draftpads had the same unusual ribbed design. I know there is no way I'll ever find - or make - an original floor mat, But I'd like to try and get the draftpads correct. I may have to get Phil to take some close shots of his pads, with measurements, so I can make a pattern on my 3D graphics program and have it printed on a 3D printer. I can use that model to make the molds.
Steele has some nice stuff, but none that matches the DL.
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The rodders seem to like a smooth back not the "bustle back" featured on the DB coupes.
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Draftpads - you learn something new everyday. If you don't mind I'd like to read the articles you're talking about. PM me and I'll get you my email address. I had good luck making a set of axle pads for my 29 Plymouth years ago. The rubber pads were bonded onto a metal support and it all worked smoothly. The large, flat area of the draftpad may be more of a problem, however. You can't blame a guy for trying.
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Does anyone have a loose 32 DL mat - the one that surrounds the gearshift and brake levers? I'd like to try and reproduce it with the steel core. There is no trace of the one that used to be on my DL. I'll be glad to return it once I make the pattern mold. Was there also a matt around the pedals?
RT
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Yeah...but for the last 43 years yours has been locked in a garage, so the first 35 years of daylight must have caused 98% of the damage?
You've got me there, Phil!
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There you go! Amazing what 80 years of UV light will do.
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My DB is a very early 32, made in the first month of production. It has a long tail light stalk, where Phil's (later in the production year) has a short stalk. His window shade brackets are also different than mine, but both are the originals. Chrysler probably used up what they had in stock and then started using the new supply. That could explain the engine color differences. Our cars may have been built in different plants - although I don't know if Dodge had more than one plant in 1932. I know 48 Plymouths made in California had different woodgraining than those made at the same time in Eastern plants.
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Interesting. I know my 48 Plymouth and 50 Dodge were silver. Phil Kennedy's 32 DL has gray paint also and his is a very original car.
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I'd like to know that myself. My engine appears to be plain gray, but I don't know if that's original.
What Were They Thinking?
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
Posted
As I said, to each his own. Althought not original, maroon with black fenders would look great and at least captures the look of the period. Baby blue over sky blue might look okay on a large classic, but not on a DB in my opinion.